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Okay, so the issue definitely seems to be the Max app on the AppleTV. Not sure what to do about that other than not use Max, but that's kinda disappointing.
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Apr 9, 2024 01:05
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Branch Nvidian posted:Okay, so the issue definitely seems to be the Max app on the AppleTV. Not sure what to do about that other than not use Max, but that's kinda disappointing. Every combination of streaming app/dongle/TV/etc seems to be broken or incompatible in some way the whole ecosystem is kind of janky
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Apr 9, 2024 19:14
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distortion park posted:Every combination of streaming app/dongle/TV/etc seems to be broken or incompatible in some way the whole ecosystem is kind of janky I also learned that apparently you only get stereo sound from Max unless you're paying for their TWENTY loving DOLLARS A MONTH tier, so that could also be part of the issue in this case since the ATV and/or the soundbar are trying to turn that into a 3.1.3 mix.
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Apr 9, 2024 19:29
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Branch Nvidian posted:I also learned that apparently you only get stereo sound from Max unless you're paying for their TWENTY loving DOLLARS A MONTH tier, so that could also be part of the issue in this case since the ATV and/or the soundbar are trying to turn that into a 3.1.3 mix. I thought they did 5.1 on regular tiers but left Atmos/Dolby Vision for the expensive plan. I finally started getting 5.1 on Hulu since they didn't support my top of the line Sony/Google tv for some reason. The fix, use the Disney+ app.
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Apr 9, 2024 22:16
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Animale posted:I thought they did 5.1 on regular tiers but left Atmos/Dolby Vision for the expensive plan. I’m just gonna go back to Blu-rays.
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Apr 9, 2024 23:16
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Branch Nvidian posted:I’m just gonna go back to Blu-rays. I hear a lot of folks are doing that, right as they stop making very many and brick and mortar stores are dumping them
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Apr 10, 2024 04:11
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Hello thread. There's no dedicated Speakers thread, so I figured you might know: what does that triangular wedge on the Klipsch La Scala low-range cabinet actually do? Because the actual woofer is apparently pointing backwards:  They do sound great! And given how eye-wateringly expensive they are, they better. I'm obviously not in the market, but I am curious what (if anything) the wedge does.
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Apr 10, 2024 18:59
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It's called a folded horn. The woofer is facing backwards to make a longer path for the sound to travel through the cabinet. The triangle is so the opening expands out (like a horn), which guides the sound waves. Same reason there are those two smaller triangles inside.
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Apr 10, 2024 23:32
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Ah, thanks! I was familiar with the folded part of that design but only in the context of subwoofer tubes. The "horn" part is new to me. Just knowing the name of the design was educational and led me to this guy who was making a very similar cabinet and... gave up on it, because it wasn't responding how he had hoped: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcZZlhgLCDc&t=580s He was winging a lot (most?) of the design, by his own admission. As someone who typically takes his idiot projects to the bitter end, I wish to have that wisdom to quit when the time comes.
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Apr 11, 2024 00:59
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Another update: I did end up grabbing a KC62 refurb from A4L. I still need to re-run Audyssey, but so far it sounds great and more importantly, it makes my girlfriend much happier with our living room setup. For what it's worth, if any of you are in the DC area and want a good deal on a pair of Q350s and/or a PB-1000, feel free to DM me! This is more of a question for down the line - I currently have a 55" LG E8, and I'm looking to upgrade to a 2023/2024 65" model later in the year. I'll also upgrade my receiver, since I'm currently using a Denon X1400H and it doesn't support HDMI 2.1. Given that my LS50 Metas can draw up to 100W, should I go for an X3700H/X3800H for more power, or stick with the X1700H/X1800H? I don't have any plans to go beyond a 2.1 setup - this is more than enough for my needs.
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Apr 12, 2024 19:26
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The question “how much amplifier power do I need” should always be answered with the questions “how loud do you want to play” and “how sensitive are your speakers”. The reason audiophiles buy amps with crazy wattages is because they want to play very loud. Louder than you think. No, even louder than that. If you are not in the habit of doing that, you’ll probably be fine with whatever base model the big manufacturers make. Edit: The X1800H is claimed to rock 80W per channel, and your speakers seem to be rated at 85dB per watt which is in the lower range of "average". Normal for smaller enclosures. Still, I’ll bet a few dollars that you’ll never crank them to the point where the X1800H starts clipping due to lack of power. Edit 2: At 1 W power, you'll be hearing 85 dB at 1 m distance, straight in front. If you want 88 dB (twice as loud), you'll need 2 W. 91 dB? 3 W. Etc. Put your numbers into this SPL calculator to find out how loud your stereo is going to play. If you turn it up any louder than that, your amp will start distorting the signal, and it will be the ugly digital clipping distortion of a transistor ripping your expensive tweeters apart with sharp upper harmonics. Edit 3: The number you quote, "LS50 Metas can draw up to 100W", where did you get it? The KEF web site seems to state "Amplifier Power (Recommended): 40-100 W". That's not the same as "it can't handle more than 100W" or even "you should drive this using an amp of 100W". It just means, in order to reach decent listening volume without distortion, you'll need 40W; further, if you drive it using a 100W amp and crank it until the amp starts clipping, that's just about as loud as they will recommend you go before the woofer extends too far and risks damage. I.e. the rated maximum output: 106 dB. Incidentally, you put 100W @ 3 ft, 1 channel into that SPL calculator, you'll get somewhere around 106 dB out! See how the numbers fit together? Hippie Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Apr 12, 2024 |
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Apr 12, 2024 20:11
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The LS50s get to pretty low impedance [3.2 ohms] in the bass frequencies but if you’re using a sub you should be fine. The only reason you might want to spring for a more expensive model would be if you want pre outs for future flexibility. In use the difference between 80 and 100 watts isn’t really going to be noticeable.
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Apr 13, 2024 02:44
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That makes perfect sense, thanks guys. The speakers are about 10 feet away from our couch, so we have no reason to turn them up that much, and we have neighbors on each side (brownstone/row house). Since we're not going beyond 2.1 for the foreseeable future, I'll stay with the X1x00H series.
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Apr 13, 2024 15:58
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I'm putting together a little speaker set for a small room. I currently have a Lepai 2020AD and a pair of Sony SS-CS5 bookshelves. I may eventually upgrade the speakers to a pair of Overnight Sensations DIY speaker kit. The Lepai works but it's struggling to power the speakers so I'm looking to upgrade the amp. I don't have a lot of space so I'd like to keep it to about the same size as the Lepai. I'm hoping to spend $50-$100. This is currenlty on sale for ~$56: https://a.co/d/07JE9ry This is also ~$56: https://a.co/d/5NatYsX Are there any other amps I should be looking at in this price range? This is going to be connected to a raspberry pi so no need for bluetooth or anything.
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Apr 17, 2024 17:35
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Here's a fun issue for the thread to help me with : I've mad my Samsung s92c hooked up to my avr via hdmi arc since I got the TV last summer, haven't changed the setup since, but am now experiencing a problem where the sound will sporadically cut out for a second, maybe every 5 mins or so. This problem only occurs when I am watching stuff directly from the TV itself (eg Netflix or BBC iplayer), and not when I'm passing audio thru from the ps5 or my cable box. This makes me think that it must be something to do with the audio processing being carried out by the TV itself. I have tried switching cables and it makes no difference. The only setting I can change which resolves the issue is switching the audio output format to pcm, which means I lose 5.1 benefits. I have no idea how to resolve this issue, and it's annoying as hell. Any ideas?
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Apr 18, 2024 19:44
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The Perfect Element posted:The only setting I can change which resolves the issue is switching the audio output format to pcm, which means I lose 5.1 benefits. It was my understanding that PCM was uncompressed audio. You will get the full 5.1 audio...
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Apr 19, 2024 07:13
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SA Forums Poster posted:It was my understanding that PCM was uncompressed audio. You will get the full 5.1 audio... In theory, but I think steaming services just output in Dolby, and if you change the setting to pcm you just get stereo.
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Apr 19, 2024 07:24
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The Perfect Element posted:In theory, but I think steaming services just output in Dolby, and if you change the setting to pcm you just get stereo. That's not generally true, but it's possible that the version of HDMI-ARC the OP is using is only able to pass two uncompressed channels.
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Apr 19, 2024 10:11
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HDMI ARC can send only compressed audio surround signals (Dolby, DTS) or PCM (uncompressed) 2.0. HDMI eARC can send that plus PCM 5.1 and 7.1. So if your TV and AVR support HDMI eARC, then just leave it at the PCM setting.
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Apr 19, 2024 10:48
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Most TVs and streaming dongles such as Chromecast GTV etc only seem to support Dolby Digital and Digital+ for streaming apps so I wouldn't expect to get multi channel PCM out of them even via eARC. Plex supports passthrough, and my Xbox will decode whatever the streaming app throws at it and send it to my AVR as 5.1 PCM - but I suspect Netflix, Prime etc are not streaming uncompressed audio.
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Apr 19, 2024 18:05
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