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Awesome dude! I'll be doing a round of touch up on the Civic tomorrow, life and weather got in the way so sanding will probably be a huge bitch now.
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Apr 12, 2015 03:21
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 02:40 |
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Update. I think I've nearly got enough paint on this thing to give it a final wet sand, then see what I can do about getting a shine on it. (that dark stuff at the back is just shadow from a tree)
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Apr 25, 2015 22:38
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So is there any reasonably decent worthwhile way to repair clearcoat? Dad's car had a clearcoat bubble that he neglected and it's now pretty much consumed the entire C-pillar. If it's not a horribly daunting task I'd like to attempt to contain the car cancer.
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Apr 25, 2015 23:48
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Tashan Dorrsett posted:So is there any reasonably decent worthwhile way to repair clearcoat? Dad's car had a clearcoat bubble that he neglected and it's now pretty much consumed the entire C-pillar. If it's not a horribly daunting task I'd like to attempt to contain the car cancer. My MS6 has a spot about the size of a a coffee cup where the clear was badly damaged and three places told me they'd have to repaint the whole hood.
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Apr 26, 2015 00:08
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If you care what it looks like you'll need to repaint the whole panel. Otherwise? Go nuts with a light sanding and spray cans of clear coat.
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Apr 26, 2015 16:57
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Cakefool posted:If you care what it looks like you'll need to repaint the whole panel. Otherwise? Go nuts with a light sanding and spray cans of clear coat. I've seen some pretty amazing blending jobs, I just didn't see the need to repaint the entire thing.
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Apr 26, 2015 22:20
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Dunno why I haven't contributed yet! Bought this Jeep last year and it pretty much looked like this:  I took all of that down back to a smooth finish with 180, 320, then 400 grit sandpaper, then laid down some primer:  I sanded the primer with 600 grit paper, then I used rattle can matched paint from https://www.automotivetouchup.com along with clear coat from the same and wound up with this:  Afterward I decided to wetsand and buff it out, but wound up wetsnading the clear right off  Need to order a few cans to touch up and re-clear.
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Apr 27, 2015 19:46
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That's pretty drat good out of a rattle can. Are those the wheels off a newer wrangler? are they polished aluminum or aluminum with a plastic cap like so many manufacturers are doing these days.
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Apr 27, 2015 19:49
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Powershift posted:That's pretty drat good out of a rattle can. Are those the wheels off a newer wrangler? are they polished aluminum or aluminum with a plastic cap like so many manufacturers are doing these days. Thanks! If you look close at the hood, you can see my spray pattern fore/aft. Now I know to avoid that when I go to fix the wetsanded clearcoat fiasco. Yeah, they're 70th Anniversary wheels. 18x7s. Luckily, it has a full set of 5 and not a stock tiny wheel on the back! They are true deal aluminum. I love 'em and think they look great on the TJ. EDIT: Here's what it looks like now: 
Team140 fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Apr 27, 2015 |
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Apr 27, 2015 19:58
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Forgot to add, I rattle-canned some black semi-gloss on the rocker panels and it looks loving gooooooood:
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Jun 12, 2015 20:42
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Decided to start primering my tailgate today, but then said gently caress it and just went ahead and used up the quart of primer I had on hand for most of the out parts of the bed. When I'm done the SE in B2000 SE will stand for "substandard effort."  Still can't decide if I want to just make it a lighter shade of blue or if I want to go full redneck and camo it. Since I'm going low effort already might as well do the latter I guess.
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Jun 25, 2015 20:30
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Here is my $50 paint job saga.... 1992 Jeep Cherokee Sport. 4.0L, full-time and part time 4x4. Picked it up for $150 off Craigslist back in 2010... Day 1. Had smallish rust holes forming. I was between jobs at the time and had a massive attached garage so I figured I would fix the rust issues.  The rust was waaay worse than expected. Had to cut out all the rust in the wheel-well, inner sheetmetal and ends.. sigh..  New sheet metal welded in and ready for more massaging.  Sanded and masked off for rolling on!  The paint... Valspar Oil Based (OSHA Safety Yellow). Mineral spirits, one gallon can, plastic tray and 4 inch high density rollers...  First coat.. OH GOD! What have I done to my Jeep??!  Small bubbles that form when you roll it on. The paint is soo thin that they simply pop. Thin the paint till it's like milk.  This is like coat #8 I believe. Wet sanding between every other coat with 600 grit. It's getting very shiny..  Door after 7th coat.  Cut out the rusty rocker metal, patched with new 18 guage and welded in 2x6 box steel. Can jack up the XJ from the rockers if needed now. Herculiner for coverage.  All 22 coats. Rolled the Jeep outside.  Here is how she looks todayish. 4 inch lift and new 31s at the time this pic was taken. About 4 years after I painted it..  Another "Glamour Shot" just after I did my homebrew lift. Still sportin 235/75 tires when this pic was taken.  Yes, it is a TON of wet sanding. You will get paint residue all over the place. You WILL need to use rubbing compound twice a year followed by a plain old liquid Turtle Wax to keep the shine and depth. It WILL go flat, and dull every 4 months or so. Would I do it again? No. Absolutely not. I purchased a cheapo 100 dollar HVLP gun kit last year to paint my stepsons KLR650. A++. Would recommend spraying instead of rolling on. Now, I am thinking of stripping the Jeep and spraying a 2-part paint. The oil-based alkyd paint is simply too soft. Even after 4 years of baking in the South Dakota sun, if tree crap falls on it, it soaks in to the paint. If it was my utility trailer, or a farm tractor or old mailbox? Hells yeah. Oil based all day long. Vehicle you want to look good? Just spray it with 2-part paint. WalMart 96c Gloss Black spray paint holds up EXTREMELY WELL on rims and fender flares. I dropped 6 bux a can once for Rustoleum Heavy Duty for another project and it didn't last NEARLY as long as the cheap Wally World stuff. I buy it by the case now for garage projects. Recommend the flat and gloss black cans for touchups on everything that doesn't get too hot. Slack3r fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Jun 25, 2015 |
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Jun 25, 2015 21:20
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For what little money you have in it, it looks really nice.
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Jun 26, 2015 00:42
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Here's a post about what NOT to do if you want people to be impressed by your paint job. before-paint picture of my wrangler.  Krylon "camo" rattlecan tan.- I would not suggest using this on a vehicle ever if you live somewhere that has moisture. In about half a year it bleached and then got covered in mold spots which dug in nicely on the porous paint.  Duplicolor fabric paint- This stuff is actually pretty awesome for painting soft tops. the one pictured was extremely weathered grey. The camo pattern I pulled from a TM for painting an M151 "mutt" utility truck.  Tan Engine Enamel (duplicolor?) This stuff worked so well in the engine bay that I used it for the exterior coating.  Here you can see the difference in colors.  The best part about a no-fucks-given paint job is that you don't have to give a gently caress. Even when you get rock damage or scrapes from trees. The downside is everyone else can tell you didn't originally give a gently caress when you first painted it.
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Jun 26, 2015 17:15
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Man I really like that tan.quote:Cut out the rusty rocker metal, patched with new 18 guage and welded in 2x6 box steel. Can jack up the XJ from the rockers if needed now. Herculiner for coverage.
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Jun 26, 2015 18:50
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Herculiner is great. It's pretty much my interior.
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Jun 27, 2015 04:52
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So I'm about to paint a pair of IL Motorsport mirrors for my Miata. I don't have a lot of experience with painting plastics. I'm using duplicolor paint match and acrylic clear but I want to set up a good foundation. I've cleaned it a few times with coffee filters and wax and grease remover and scuffed them with a red scotchbrite pad. Is it a worthwhile idea to use both adhesion promoter and self etch primer, or is self etch more of a metal thing?
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Jun 27, 2015 06:34
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Sandbagger SA posted:Herculiner is great. It's pretty much my interior.
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Jun 27, 2015 14:49
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Parts Kit posted:Another thing for me to consider since the carpets in my truck are long past hosed. Ever have any issues with the cab floor getting too hot for comfort? Depends on the vehicle. I've been fine on some and others can get uncomfortably hot, especially when you have a cat close to the sheet metal. My old 944 track car was kinda toasty on the passenger side floor. Enough that plastic bags would melt into it.
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Jun 27, 2015 20:21
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Parts Kit posted:Another thing for me to consider since the carpets in my truck are long past hosed. Ever have any issues with the cab floor getting too hot for comfort? My wrangler's floor can get warm but I have rubber floor mats (also reduces wear on the bed liner).
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Jun 27, 2015 22:47
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Here's what happens when you REALLY don't care about your paint. Rustoleum "Pumpkin Orange" paint, some spray-on and some roll-on. Done in three days with no sanding beforehand, except to feather the edges of the old peeling paint that were chipping off. Before:       Day after:  (very noticeable spray lines, I re-sanded only the hood after seeing this photo)    A few weeks later. Only photos I took, for obvious reasons:  (remnants of buffing compound that won't come out from areas I really didn't sand or clean too well)  (still waiting on running boards)  (I'm still finding glass in places) A few months after that:    I have a lot of nice things to say about "black ice" wash/wax in one soap.
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Jul 2, 2015 17:21
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Is the tractor and implement paint too soft, like the roll on rustoleum? Any tips on removing rattle can rustoleum? I want to paint the m3 with white tractor paint so I can go hog wild with making race car livery with the vinyl cutter.
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Jul 3, 2015 02:54
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Seat Safety Switch posted:So I'm about to paint a pair of IL Motorsport mirrors for my Miata. I don't have a lot of experience with painting plastics. Any advice on this one? I feel like self etch is a metal thing but I've yet to hear of anyone using it on plastics. I think I'm going to avoid it. How long should you wait after your colour coat to apply the clear coat? I've heard that the colour coat offgassing as it cures can gently caress up the clear. Should I wait like 4-5 hours in between?
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Jul 3, 2015 03:26
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mafoose posted:Is the tractor and implement paint too soft, like the roll on rustoleum? Its pretty soft. You want a decent hard finish for the wrap to cling to. I'd say just shoot a cheap two part paint or something that has a good hardener in it. It doesn't have to be perfect but the wrap will show any defects.
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Jul 3, 2015 06:21
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Even after doing a bunch of thin coats the paint I used was soft for like two or three months afterwards. It very noticeably hardened up as the summer came around, and that's when I waxed it.
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Jul 4, 2015 15:53
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Things with the mirrors went alright. I could be happier but it's not bad at all. They're good enough to whack bugs with. Historically I'd only ever spray painted stuff that was lying on a table or propped up against a wall, and really only like a straight vertical surface. When that happens things are easy to do, the mirror shells were a challenge. Things I learned:
Painting plastic was kind of a new adventure, definitely different from spraying suspension components, Chinese fenders and wheels. We'll see how it looks once it's in the car. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Jul 5, 2015 |
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Jul 5, 2015 04:14
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 02:40 |
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not technically a paintjob, but i recently did my 4runner's fender flares with duplicoat bedliner. The truck will be spray bombed with krylon fusion's olive drab green eventually though. 
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Jul 5, 2015 06:20
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