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Yeah, I need to double check the startup cluster and/or the manual to see what might be up there. I know the cylinders are fiber-reinforced metal, so they're kind of delicate, and won't take much in the way of boost, for instance. I hadn't bothered to do a compression check when the engine became inoperable, I expect it'll have significant leakdown when I get to that. I'm looking at a couple of simple catch can models, now it's just a matter of routing the hoses and mounting the two cans that will be required. Even though it's like 20ºF in Houston now that the arctic blast followed me from OKC last night, I'll be replacing the thermostat today. I also need to run to a junkyard, I saw a '92 Integra airbox cover that looked really close, and uses the same wire clips, but last time I bought one of these it was 100% wrong. Wrong barrel size, wouldn't fit in the space, etc. I flat out refuse to pay Honda's exorbitant ~$140 for just the top half of the filter housing, and no fewer than three local sellers have totally flaked on $50 for this one part of their wrecked cars, though to be fair it was Craigslist... I also noticed I left the hose clamp on that little pigtail from the oil chiller to the back of the block way back on the hose, clearly not holding it on the nipple at all. I'll try to get a pic of this, I'm just going to open up a worm gear clamp and wrap it around the hose, that OE auto-tensioning clamp is very nearly as inaccessible as it would be if the car were on the moon. Luckily the new hose has prevented it from popping off. Edit: I drove halfway across town and only realized I hadn't brought the original part to compare to the Integra, or much cash (in linen slacks, oops...) Turns out they have an actual '97 Prelude: $9.29 for the top half of the air box and the 3 good clips, which would technically be part of the bottom. Either way, the guy said that car is already slated to be hauled away, I may need to go back tomorrow for any chance at anything else. It's also a base model, but the entire motor and tranny are gone, all door trim is gone, front bumper off, steering rack in trunk along with , the belt driven poo poo is sitting in a deep puddle inside the car, half the windows are busted, etc. About the only thing I can see grabbing that I didn't have time or available cash is the driver's sun visor and probably the door dome light switches, mine seem a little flaky. I wanted the cross-member that the radius rods' bushings bolt into, but it seems gone. Oddhair fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Jan 9, 2015 |
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Jan 8, 2015 17:54
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Well, I'm stuck. I ran the thing long enough for it to finally open the thermostat, it's really tough filling one of these with coolant. It's been a hard crank ever since the reassembly, just not seeming to want to turn. After getting it up to temp I was tempted (lol) to take it somewhere but I thought to park it back in a spot at the office and see if it would start again. Of course it barely turned over and wouldn't fire. I didn't change the bottom end, the valves are all adjusted properly, nothing should be offering significant rotating mass resistance; I'm thinking maybe just starter problems, like grease and grime fouling the starter contacts. I haven't been motivated to go back at it in any way, on account of just reassembling the whole drat thing, but it's about time to go at it again. I'm going to start with the spark plugs, checking for anything out of the ordinary, then look into the starter. Also I'll need to check for spark, not sure what's going on under that hood. Edit: the fuel pump isn't powering up when the key is switched to ON, so it's looking like the PGM-FI relay or just the fuel pump, or maybe the wiring, but I expect the wiring will be fine. It'll be the pump, but I'm not buying that until I've done the tests necessary to isolate the problem. Oddhair fucked around with this message at 09:02 on Feb 6, 2015 |
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Feb 4, 2015 07:54
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I figured out the battery drain: the little pad that sits in a hole on the brake pedal had disintegrated, letting the switch be unobstructed and thus the brake lights be on perpetually. I've been stepping through the fuel-pump-no-turn troubleshooting. The PGM-FI relay is two power relays in a single package, with the first providing the power for the second to deliver: • Fuel pump (PGM-FI) relay has continuity in every which way it should when outside the vehicle. • Fuel pump doesn't turn on for two seconds when key initially turned and everything else set to default. • When 12V is supplied to the fuel pump main relay, the fuel pump turns on as expected with the key (jumper between 4 and 5) • In my digging, I've determined the PGM-FI main relay doesn't have a good ground to pin 3, and pin 7 doesn't receive voltage even though the fuel pump fuse is good. Next steps are to look for opens or shorts between various parts of the ECU plugs and the rest of the car; I'm very rapidly approaching the end of a CYOA book when the guide says "If that poo poo didn't work, replace the ECM (computer) for your car."
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Feb 11, 2015 03:54
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