|
Storage for traditional gaming is a thing that deserves some attention. Let's start talking about how we're not all drowning in parts. MINIATURES STORAGE Battlefoam: https://www.battlefoam.com Battlefoam cuts up their stuff into 4 major categories. 1- Economy Storage. This is basically cardboard boxes or relatively cheap canvas bags. 2- Premier Storage. This is higher durability ballistic nylon, and a lot of their bags apparently have MOLLE webbing these days. 3- Elite Storage. This is where you go if you really need your miniatures to be held in foam packed inside plastic. 4- Licensed Storage. Bags and foam designed for specific games or game companies. Strictly speaking to the goods themselves, I don't like the fact that everything isn't really modular in nature. Battlefoam uses a variety of foam sizes for their different bags that aren't necessarily interchangeable. Some are 14.25"x10.25". Some are 13"x7.75". Some are 15.5"x8". They also sell magnet racks for people who don't want to put their minis in foam but do want to put their minis in a Battlefoam branded bag. I don't really know the whole controversy, but apparently the guy who runs Battlefoam is a litigious rear end in a top hat and also an rear end in a top hat otherwise, so the consensus is you should never buy from this company because you'd be something that is toxic for the community. KR Multicase: https://www.krmulticase.com KR Multicase uses a system of units they call KRU (KR Units). KRU does not refer to the size of a case itself, but rather the size of the foam within the case. This is because they make bags that hold cardboard cases and also aluminum cases that do NOT hold the cardboard cases. The aluminum cases hold between 1 and 4 KRU, and a cardboard case comes in either 1 or 1/2 KRU size. All of their cases have handles, and are pretty sturdy in my opinion. A single KRU is 380mm x 255mm (or roughly 15" x 10"). A half KRU is half the length, so 190mm x 255mm (or roughly 7.5" x 10"). The depth of each one is 110mm (4.33"). KR Multicase has a few notable details about their system: They have what they call "core" trays. Core trays are not meant for any particular system, and are simply variations on a single principle: Equally sized compartments of varying depths with 10mm foam walls. The exception is with the cardboard trays they make, which have much thinner walls, but are not made of foam, so they're better for things that do not require a lot of padding. KR Multicase uses a naming convention for their core trays that initially looks wonky but makes sense once you figure it out. With one exception, each KR case uses full depth, and from that depth, they derive a number for the naming convention, along with a letter for the tray configuration. These denote the size of each cell within the tray. From there they add a number that denotes tray depth as a fraction of the total depth. The last letter denotes whether it's a full length tray (T) or half-length tray (H). So an F3H tray is F configuration, each 1/3 the depth of the KRU, and half length. There are some exceptions, but with this understanding you should be able to understand it. The whole idea is to be modular, so if you understand fractions you can add everything up to equal 1 total depth, like F2H + F4H + F4H = 1 full-depth half-length tray. They also make custom trays for different games. They assume you will either have cardboard cases or aluminum cases. The important thing here is that they make very sturdy aluminum cases, but the aluminum cases have no accessory storage. The cardboard cases fit inside their bags though, notably the Kaiser bags and their backpacks, which do have accessory storage. Note that these are made to handle full KRU cardboard cases, which combined can get pretty big. I have a Kaiser that holds 3 KRU and it's pretty massive and taking it around to places is fairly unrealistic. Portable Warfare: https://www.portablewarfare.com Portable Warfare is cool to me just because their foam is easy to buy and it's relatively cheap if you just want foam. I don't have any personal experience with their product, but they make a bag for 40 bucks that has all the little things you'd want on it to hold dice, a rulebook, whatever. It comes in 4 colors and is relatively small. The interesting thing about these guys is that they make foam that they call Blu foam, which is just their standard size. Each piece of foam is 7.5" x 13" with 1/2" pick and pluck foam with a 1/4" bottom pad. MiniatureMarket sells these foam trays at a pretty decent discount, and they're actually designed to be that size so you can fit them into the bags of other companies, or an ammo box ( like this one) or whatever. Forums user BULBASAUR has a good post about that here. It comes in a variety of thicknesses.  DIY Pick And Pluck Charcoal: It's possible to buy your own pick & pluck foam from a variety of dealers on the internet, and attach it to 1/8" or 1/4" foam sheeting to essentially make custom-sized foam trays. My protip for doing this: Do not use spray adhesive. If you use spray adhesive you will make parts of your foam sticky that you did not want to be sticky. If anyone knows exactly what kind of glue is used by the above mentioned companies, let me know and I'll add it to this post. Tackleboxes and Toolboxes Plano, Stanley, Bosch, DeWalt, and a bunch of other companies make tackle and tool boxes that work for highly durable miniatures such as those used in the X-Wing Miniatures game, Heroclix, D&D Miniatures, etc.. At the time of this post the recommended box for this kind of thing appears to be this double cover thing from Plano that is 10 bucks. They are excellent for tokens. If you use one of these, and you're using it for an appropriate kind of mini, the trick with these is going to be making sure that the compartments are the right size for what you're doing. Also, quality differences are a real thing, which is why I personally prefer organizers made by Akro-Mils. Anything that has removable dividers should be tested to see if they don't allow tokens to transfer easily from one bin to another. Other companies of interest: https://www.saboldesigns.net https://www.figuresincomfort.net signalnoise fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Aug 28, 2014 |
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 19:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 08:19 |
|
|
TO BE WRITTEN: PAINT STORAGE PAINTING TOOL STORAGE BOARD GAME STORAGE SHELVING
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 19:18
|
|
|
i usually put my dice on a dice bag and keep my books on a book shelf, OP
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2014 20:34
|
|
|
I need to make up some plans where I can build a wooden box with removable drawers that have steel rubber on them that will allow magnetised miniatures (either in magnetised trays or by themselves) to be stuck to it via magnets in their bases, thus allowing me to transport whole units at a time. I'll have to come up with some kind of plan for making it. I could make one of the sides have a see-through acrylic window, but I don't really think that's really necessary. Anyone have any ideas on how to plan something like this out?
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2014 15:00
|
|
|
I have heard of and seen magnetic storage boxes pre-made, but I don't remember where. They all have the sliding rack shelf system you're talking about, but DIY you could probably do it cheaper. http://balagan.info/storage-systems-for-wargaming-figures There's a lot of ways you could do that though, using drop-in shelves with spacers or whatever.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2014 15:26
|
|