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My laptop overheats very very badly. As I type this the CPU cores are all 80C and the GPU is 86C. This is with nothing open but 13 internet tabs on chrome. Doing anything remotely processor intensive is prone to overheating the laptop to the point of shutdown; and eventually it gets to the point where it automatically shuts down even if I'm on complete idle. I've tried putting it on a stand, increasing air circulation, and taking it into a cooler room, but nothing really solves the problem. The fan is definitely still working at least, so that doesn't seem to be the problem. Also during the 5 minutes I spent typing this post, the temperatures jumped to 83C for the CPU cores and 90C for the GPU. This, needless to say, is not a good thing.
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Dec 1, 2014 18:11
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 08:51 |
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Step 1 would be to thoroughly blow out the vents with a can of compressed air. Hit it from every angle, larger items like hair or scraps of paper can become lodged in such a way that you can only get them out by blowing into the outlet vent. Keep at it until dust stops coming out. If you've already tried that, then a few questions: Is the fan speed constant? Is it loud? I have a Satellite m505 and it starts low but sounds like a jet engine when its overheating. If you've got the Toshiba PC Health Monitor installed that should give you a readout on the fan speed. What kind of hard drive do you have? SSDs draw almost no power and generate very little heat, but spinning disk drives on laptops can become painfully hot if some application like a defragger or anti-virus is keeping it in constant use. What Operating System? Windows 8 has a very nice realtime performance graph in the task manager (CTRL-ALT-DELTE > Task Manager > Performance). The Task Manager in earlier versions of windows isn't as fancy, but can still provide some useful data. If your CPU is running at 100% utilization, then you've got some rogue process running in the background. Task Manager > Processes > Sort by CPU usage and see what stands out. If the CPU is running at maximum clockspeed but low utilization, then you've got a problem with power regulation. The fastest way to get it under control would be to go Control Panel > Power Options > Change Plan Settings for the active plan > Change Advanced Settings > Processor Power Management > Maximum Processor State > 50%. Warning: Setting this too low will render your computer unusable. Don't go below 25%. This is not ideal because of the obvious performance hit, but it should get you cool enough to keep working on a solution. If speed doesn't go down, then you have a problem in the BIOS or with Intel's speed regulation software. If the CPU speed goes down but you're still overheating then your fan is the likely culprit, it's either physically impaired by some sort of blockage in the vent (likely dust, possible something larger) or a failing motor, or there's a problem with the software that regulates it. Physical problems require physical solutions, like dismantling the case and examining the fan and vents from the inside, so leave that for last. AND CHECK YOUR WARRANTY FIRST. Opening your computer might break other things if you aren't careful, it will probably void your warranty, and you might still be eligible for free repairs from the vendor or manufacturer. With software you have a few more options. Things to try: Unplug it and see if the CPU slows down when on battery power. Still having problems? Uninstall any third party (non-microsoft) energy saving software and double check the Power Options again. If CPU speed still doesn't go down, try reinstalling the Intel Speed regulation software. Install SpeedFan to manually adjust fan speeds, be careful not to set things too high because you can damage the fans. Avulsion fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Dec 1, 2014 |
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Dec 1, 2014 21:27
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Avulsion posted:What kind of hard drive do you have? SSDs draw almost no power and generate very little heat, but spinning disk drives on laptops can become painfully hot if some application like a defragger or anti-virus is keeping it in constant use. It's a spinning disk drive, but the really weird thing is that even as the GPU and CPU rise in temperature to horrific heights it remains completely normal; even when the GPU and CPU are 90C+ the HD0 is sitting at maybe 35C tops (possibly even then only from catching heat from the CPU and GPU?). And the fan doesn't seem to be clogged from looking into it or anything; hot air is definitely being blown out of it at any rate and it appears to be functioning fine. I'm still going to try the compressed air tactic later and report my results, but I'm starting to think it might not just be the cooling being an issue. EDIT: Throttled the maximum processor rate down to 50%, still is rising in temperature over time, but at least it's much more stable the Orb of Zot fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Dec 2, 2014 |
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Dec 2, 2014 01:43
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If I had to do a completely dumb guess I'd look for bitcoin malware.
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Dec 3, 2014 21:43
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This is a known issue with basically that entire series of laptops from Toshiba. See: https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=thoshiba+a665+overheat I had several of them and work and had this problem with ALL of them. It can start after as little as a year of use and will only get worse. The root cause is the factory thermal paste on the heat sink breaking down. It seems to break down quicker on the models with dedicated GPUs. The only true fix is to remove the old thermal paste and apply new. If you are up to it, getting to the heatsink assembly is not that hard. IIRC only the keyboard and top plate had to come off. I used a video I found on youtube to help take it apart. Use this: http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Arcticlean-Material-ACN-60ML/dp/B0087X738E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417641258&sr=8-1&keywords=arcticlean to remove the old thermal paste. Squeeze a little bit of bottle #1 anywhere there is old thermal paste, let it sit for a few seconds, wipe off. #1 will turn the old paste to liquid making it very easy to remove. You don't need much, just enough to get the old paste wet. Make sure you clean both the heatsink surface and the CPU/GPU itself. Once you are satisfied the old paste is gone, wipe down all surfaces using #2. Once clean, apply a slightly-smaller-than-a-pea sized dab of new paste right in the center of the heatsink where it contacts the CPU/GPU and re-install it. This paste: http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver...s=arctic+silver works great. And that little tube is enough to fix several of these laptops. While you are in there, make sure the fan and heatsink fins are clean. Reassemble and your over-heating problems will be gone.
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Dec 3, 2014 22:36
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UPDATE: Cleaned out the fans with a spray and it didn't have much effect; would taking the laptop into Micro Center to get it fixed there be a viable option?
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Dec 6, 2014 00:27
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I think the post above yours describes the best solution. Reapply the thermal paste. I guess if you're not comfortable doing this yourself and micro center provides this service it should be fine. Make sure you tell them exactly what you want done (reapply thermal paste to CPU and GPU) so they don't do something else that doesn't fix the problem.
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Dec 6, 2014 00:33
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r0ck0 posted:I think the post above yours describes the best solution. Reapply the thermal paste. I guess if you're not comfortable doing this yourself and micro center provides this service it should be fine. Make sure you tell them exactly what you want done (reapply thermal paste to CPU and GPU) so they don't do something else that doesn't fix the problem. Bumping to mention I'm doing this tomorrow, especially since the overheating has somehow gotten even worse (now it's drifting around 90C usually no matter what I do) Is it possible that the heatsink got disconnected completely from the CPU or something?
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Dec 18, 2014 07:36
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 08:51 |
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Probably not that, it would either overheat and shutdown in a matter of minutes, or would literally burn itself out, depending if it has an integrated heat spreader on it or not. But you should get to doing this ASAP.
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Dec 18, 2014 15:53
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