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Just bought this last week: 2013 Jetta TDI in Candy White -1 Owner, CPO, Remainder of Factory Warranty -Premium Package (Sunroof, heated leather seats, touchscreen stereo with Bluetooth & SiriusXM, and a Fender 9 speaker sound system with a sub, steering wheel controls) -6 Speed Manual Transmission -All weather floormats (dealer threw these in free) -iPhone 5/5s/6/6+ adapter (free too - weird how it goes in the glove box) So far I love the car. Going up a low grade hill in 3rd gear at 1100RPMs with the 'gas' pedal ever so slightly pressed is quite the experience. I plan to tint the windows first (35% all around), maybe find some cheap used OEM wheels, EGR delete, and possibly some other items. The mod bug hasn't bitten me quite yet. c I still have the 2005 Forester XT with the 20G turbo, 5spd, 3" catless turboback, 2.5" Prodrive axleback, Tommei UEL headers, and a Cobb AP v2 with custom dyno tune. The motor is toast though  . It starts but burns oil like crazy. I am betting its the classic cylinder #3 that has no compression  . Around late 2012/early 2013 the car was parked in my parents garage. I start it every once in awhile and top it off with fresh 93 octane fuel, but it burns so much oil that I can not do much more than drive it around the block. Of course I need a built motor to handle the extra boost, and that is quite a pretty penny. Anyone in the Philadelphia area know of any Subaru specialists (or goons) who will rebuild the motor for me with stronger components and check the heads?Back to the original topic, here she is! Very happy with it so far. Any recommendations on 'reliability' or 'improvement' modifications? I also would like to get a boost gauge.     Any recommendations for basic mods on the 2013 Jetta TDI would be sincerely appreciated. Also, any tri-state goons (I am 30min north of Philadelphia) that know of a good shop to get my motor built, please let me know. Also, any goons interested in rebuilding my EJ257 with stronger internals and checking the heads, post here and/or message me. I will pay cash money American dollars to get this sleeper running again.  Smoking e94 M3s never gets old in this car 
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Feb 24, 2015 02:41
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 04:34 |
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Cool Jetta but that forester project car is where it's at. Especially since you have a solid main car now. Save some money. Buy another ej255. As you probably already know, the only difference between the ej255 and ej257 is the pistons. Keep the current setup, it really shouldn't be too much unless you're really running that 20g to the max of it's efficiency range. I hate subaru 5 speeds. They're expensive (like 3-4x the price of most other Japanese 4cycl 5spds) and love to break. I say leave the new one in and just take it easy on the gear changes. If it breaks I would just hunt down someone with a 5spd they already sunk money into putting in PPG gears. The STi 6spds are solid as hell but their price reflects the demand for them. Plus you'll end up having to replace axles, hubs, diffs, whatever and wanting to buy dccd controllers and poo poo. Spend $750-$1000 on a decent EJ255 shortblock, freshen it up a bit, and get that thing back on the road.
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Feb 24, 2015 03:22
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moloo posted:Cool Jetta but that forester project car is where it's at. Especially since you have a solid main car now. I am also still on the stock fuel injectors  . Would a used EJ255/257 be worth it and install 850cc injectors? I will also need to get an upgraded Walbro 255lph fuel pump, unless there are better options (haven't been on the Subaru scene in years).Thanks!
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Feb 24, 2015 03:28
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Really? What size are the factory injectors? Sounds like you're making enough power to max out STi injectors, I bet your motor issues came from running lean. I would: 1. Pull the motor and see if it's your heads or block that's hosed. Figure out what you want to do there. 2. Buy bigger injectors and a 255lph. 3. Sell the Cobb AP and get an opensource tune for the new setup.
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Feb 24, 2015 20:03
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moloo posted:Really? What size are the factory injectors? Sounds like you're making enough power to max out STi injectors, I bet your motor issues came from running lean. Yeah you are 100% correct. Have any goons pulled a ej255 themselves? I could take a look on NASIOC for a relatively close Subie enthusiast, but I wanted to check with AI first.
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Feb 26, 2015 10:39
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David Bowie posted:Have any goons pulled a ej255 themselves? Fairly easy job as far as engine outs go. Really helps that two guys can deadlift the engine out - the whole shooting match is so light that it makes the job a hell of a lot easier, I think we came to a total of 86 kgs on the hoist with pretty much everything still on the engine. They really are absurdly light for their size.
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Feb 26, 2015 11:34
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David Bowie posted:Yeah you are 100% correct. Have any goons pulled a ej255 themselves? I could take a look on NASIOC for a relatively close Subie enthusiast, but I wanted to check with AI first. Most of the NE AI goons have yanked Subaru drivetrains out at some point. Slow Is Fast is probably the one to talk to.
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Feb 26, 2015 11:55
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We pull the non turbo ones in under an hour at the junky yard, but that's because we cut/hammer all the ancillaries. Ken just lifts the motor out himself. Turbo poo poo has more stuff you have to deal with, waterbox, turbo, etc. Go slow, LABEL poo poo if you don't know what it is or where it goes. Rubber hoses, spin them on the fitting before you try and pull them off. I don't label bolts anymore, but when I was starting out, get a huge piece of cardboard and a sharpie. Any bolt you take off punch through the cardboard and write where it goes. Don't disconnect the AC or power steering systems, just unbolt the pumps and flip them to the side. You will have to get the whole motor up and out of the cross member before you slid it off the trans snout. Leave the intake manifold on, only noobs take that poo poo off in car (plus you also lift with it). Quick list of poo poo you have to undo, PS pump to flip, AC compressor to flip, radiator with hoses, motor mounts, header, bellhousing bolts, heater core hoses, clutch fork pivot, + misc electrical connectors, turbo and lines. If you have trouble separating the block from the trans, usually the dowel pins seize up. You can try using the clutch hydraulics to push the them apart, or you can use a paint scraper to try and chip the two apart. If you decide to DIY it, let me know and you can email me or call me if you get stuck. I would either find a known good shortblock, or get an 1800 new shortblock and throw forged pistons in it along with having the heads cleaned. If that model has an oil cooler, rip that poo poo off and throw it away as it will be full of garbage. The later WRX's didn't have it and I think they are more of a problem then a help, go aftermarket if you want an oil cooler.
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Feb 26, 2015 15:02
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 04:34 |
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Don't ask me how I know but one out of shape person can actually carry the entire powertrain from, say, a garage to a basement. The 5spd is the heaviest part, but manageable if you drain it and take off the center diff. If you unbolt the block, the halves are so light that you can literally throw them in the air and catch them. e: If you have money left over and you're still running the stock intercooler, you should probably swap that out. XT's run the same intercooler and hoodscoop as 02-07 WRXs, way too small for a 20g. You could get a JDM v7 STi stock tmic or (better) something aftermarket for ~$500. You'll pick up a psi or two as well as the stock tmic has a 2-3psi pressure drop. Just saying, JDM v7 STI hoodscoops are a direct fit. Shouldn't effect the sleeper status too much and, uh, something, something, airflow. 
moloo fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Feb 27, 2015 |
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Feb 26, 2015 22:09
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