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Ho!y gently caress. Surprised you got the package at all.
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Mar 2, 2016 00:55
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I spoke too soon. They don't damp properly, all squeak, some leak, and one's seized. Emailed the seller but I don't imagine UPS shipping from Mexico leaves a proper recourse. 
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Mar 2, 2016 05:22
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A card charge dispute would.
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Mar 2, 2016 22:17
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Are Koni's rebuild-able?
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Mar 2, 2016 22:54
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Yes. I bought some old as hell rear Koni's from the 90s for a Lumina, supposedly rebuilt before long storage. Both needed rebuilding before I even put them on the car. it was only after I paid way too much and sent the front ones in did they go "ooops our bad we made some back in the 90s that were not rebuildable"
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Mar 3, 2016 01:31
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http://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/About/Contact/ Call them up and see how much it will cost to rebuild them. They rebuild tons of stuff there.
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Mar 3, 2016 02:09
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:http://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/About/Contact/ When I checked for my veloster on some used koni's the cost to rebuild was cost of new basically
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Mar 3, 2016 02:12
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Well when you can't get new not much of a choice, definitely pick out the best four and have them rebuilt if you can.
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Mar 3, 2016 02:14
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OneOverZero posted:I spoke too soon. They don't damp properly, all squeak, some leak, and one's seized. UPS will laugh at the packing job, and the shipper has to collect the insurance even so, so good luck. Never, ever, ship anything loose. That poo poo gets slammed around to much, and f you let it move inside the box it'll try to escape, or beat itself to death inside the box. edit: I had a guy ship me a '70-'72 Olds Cutlass dash pad just sort of floating around in a pair of Dixie Cup boxes taped together, with a few foam popcorn kernels thrown in. It inevitably got broken in shipping (ruining a perfectly good dash, which infuriated me more than anything else - these things are hard to find uncracked/unwarped) and dipshit told me to go talk to UPS about insurance. Which of course I could do, because I was the shippee, not the shipper. That was also the last time I paid for anything on eBay with something other than PayPal. I paid by MO, and had zero recourse other than negative feedback. Then the asshat gave me negative feedback for giving him negative feedback for poor shipping/packaging (this was back before there were several specific feedback points.) I still have it, and may try some plastic wizardry and re-upholstery to fix it some day - one end got broken off. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Mar 30, 2016 |
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Mar 30, 2016 23:35
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I have gone off the deep end. In my basement is a freshly-rebuilt 2.4L (Stratus block, PT Cruiser head, Crower cams/springs & titanium valve retainers, etc) mated to a freshly-rebuilt ACR-spec T350 trans with a new Quaife LSD. I paid $900 for the pair, so probably around a fifth of what the builder had in them, though shipping from Northern CA hurt. With a couple brackets out of Chryslers of a similar vintage and a handful of re-pinning at the ECU connectors, everything should bolt in fairly easily while retaining AC. The white ACR now has new hubs/bearings in the front knuckles, a new ACR-spec steering rack, new strut mounts, and slotted rebound-adjustable Konis. Why slotted? For the '95-'98.5ish ACRs, Chrysler included slotted struts in the front to accommodate aggressive camber. ACRs were typically shipped unaligned to dealers, and the service department would align the car per the new owner's specifications. However, so many dealers neglected to do this that Chrysler reverted to the standard 14.6mm thru holes midway through the '98 model year This car, being a '96, originally had slotted Arvin struts, but the Konis I purchased were all for the '99 MY. A Bridgeport (and AI's resident Opel enthusiast MonkeyNutz) made quick work of the non-slotted holes for me, per a milling template Chrysler provided for SCCA folks:  I've struggled to get much else done as TRUK STUFFF has taken up quite a bit of time.  Third autocross of the season is tomorrow!
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Jun 8, 2016 07:38
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Oh look, triplets. I went full Tortoise and the Hare on them and edged out a slightly better time than either. Co-driver bested me by a second.
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Aug 18, 2016 04:32
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OneOverZero posted:Oh look, triplets. I bet those Viper drivers were pleased. 
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Aug 18, 2016 06:21
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I hosed off the Neon yesterday after washing my truck. Water and white PPG paint from 1996 don't mix. Time to prep the rough sections with Metal Ready and lay down some white POR15. MonkeyNutZ will be taking some time off from his Opelzuki saga to recreate the 1996 Neon Challenge scheme in Plastidip. My other thought was painting it like the General Lee, but called the General Leif and with a Norwegian flag on the roof (because gently caress the South) but my desire for self-preservation in this godforsaken traitor wasteland kicked in. If the Plastidip lasts a year or so, that should be enough time to decide on a more permanent solution. 
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Sep 4, 2016 15:19
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LOL Holy crap, what a mess. See this is why I never wash the cars.
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Sep 4, 2016 15:34
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I wholeheartedly support this scheme.
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Sep 4, 2016 16:18
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Don't think I've ever seen white POR15 as a topcoat before.
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Sep 4, 2016 17:56
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We're actually using the POR "top coat" paint that's UV stable. Regular POR gets all chalky under direct UV after a while.
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Sep 4, 2016 21:58
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OneOverZero posted:
This is only allowed on Volvo's  I actually went to highschool with a guy who had that exact paint scheme on a old volvo, can't remember if it was a early 242 or an Amazon, but it was awesome
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Sep 4, 2016 22:10
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MonkeyNutZ posted:We're actually using the POR "top coat" paint that's UV stable. Regular POR gets all chalky under direct UV after a while. I tried the Tremclad aluminum-shavings paint on my Subaru's fender as sort of a ghetto rust-proof colour match, and after oxidation I bet the POR15 aluminum/silver paint would create a pretty cool effect on the Neon. Good luck topcoating it though.
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Sep 4, 2016 22:51
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Holy crap I forgot this thread existed. You're making my Chevron Car obsession as a wee tot come to life.
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Sep 5, 2016 03:35
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I tried the Tremclad aluminum-shavings paint on my Subaru's fender as sort of a ghetto rust-proof colour match, and after oxidation I bet the POR15 aluminum/silver paint would create a pretty cool effect on the Neon. ) I believe it's also the basis for the rust encapsulator that Eastwood sells.  At any rate, I think the best bet is to blast away whatever paint I can with a pressure washer, scuff the remaining edges well, and prep.
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Sep 5, 2016 18:45
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Slowly but surely, I'm getting the hang of it. Unfortunately, I only had four runs yesterday, and three of them were DNFs as I was going the tight way around a gate - apparently common, but significantly slower. Two of my friends each cut more than a second off my time later in the day, but they didn't have a passenger, so there https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_RrvtVyZDxw   
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Oct 2, 2016 19:15
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 00:50 |
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GJ Robert. Nice choice of music.
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Oct 2, 2016 20:32
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