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I'd say the US and Euro split-color lenses look equally good so you can't go wrong with either. It doesn't sound like you're going the full amber route, but if you do there are two-screw and three-screw variants of them and they don't swap, so be careful which ones you buy. As for the chin spoiler, if you put up a wanted ad on Turbobricks it shouldn't be too hard to find a standard commando bumper lip, but if you can find one a GT chin spoiler would be a nice finishing touch, especially if you had it color-matched to the rest of the car. I'm excited to see this project come to fruition-a friend of mine did a 5.0 swap in his 242 but he only drove it for a summer before taking it apart to add a turbo. He never got it back together and ended up parting it out, which was a shame because it had the potential to be really badass. I've always wanted to do a similar swap but I'm too invested into FWD Volvos right now and decent 240 chassis have dried up in the Midwest. 
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Jan 27, 2016 16:35
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| # ? Apr 23, 2024 20:24 |
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I've always liked the split-Euro turn signal lights. The full amber looks too much like an aftermarket accident repair, and the USDM lights with the side windows are nasty.
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Jan 27, 2016 16:51
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If you're messing with the lights, do the chevy celebrity light mod: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=271975 Everyone in that thread seemed to hate it but I think it looks awesome.
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Jan 28, 2016 08:01
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88h88 posted:
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Jan 28, 2016 17:08
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LloydDobler posted:If you're messing with the lights, do the chevy celebrity light mod: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=271975 quote:Thread could be renamed "Headlights to make your 240 look worse than the factory ever managed to" And they're right.  The front end of a 240 is great because it's simple. From another link in that thread:  PLEASE KILL ME Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Jan 28, 2016 |
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Jan 28, 2016 18:44
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So the property management company finally noticed that I was using all of the garage and are asking nicely that I get the second car out of the way. That means the Mustang needs to get sorted out this weekend, which is kinda annoying. I'm basically done pulling the important parts for the swap, but I don't want the interior to go to the scrap yard. Scratch that, the guy I bought it from in 1999 is going to buy it back and try to rebuild the body. The circle of life is complete.  88h88 posted:
 The Chevy lights aren't completely terrible, but holy poo poo those are bad. The grill with the fog lights is badass though. I really like the 242GT's front end, but I also like the quad headlight setup.  I think the split lights are the way to go. I'll head over to turbobricks soon and start asking around about the chin spoiler and whatnot. Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Jan 28, 2016 |
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Jan 28, 2016 20:58
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The above to me at least, is the most attractive 240 series light setup.
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Jan 29, 2016 18:12
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Friday Update! (Got the day off today since I'm working tomorrow) Today's priority was to get the Mustang cleaned up and out on the street so my friend could come and pick it up. He's going to get me the cables and whatnot that I left on the body so they don't have to be removed, so that's handled. Next up was cleaning up the garage so that the property company can start showing the upstairs next week. I'm probably gonna go grab some storage crates from Harbor Freight this afternoon and box up the smaller stuff so the shelves are cleaned up as well. I can wait until they get a new tenant upstairs before pulling the PRV out of the Volvo. Probably will do small stuff like keep trying to pull the PS pump and removing the seats/carpet in the Volvo.  All cleaned up and ready to go home to its original parents. I'm sure I'll end up buying another fox body someday, but nothing will replace this guy.  So I'm guessing these stickers were reflective at some point and were intended to serve a similar function to the reflectors in luxury cars back in the 80's?  Time to finally investigate the melting situation in the footwell.  The plastic trim screws are still in great shape, but a couple are missing. Either way, the cover came off easily.  Ok good, it's just that stuff that they put on AC lines.  Only panel damage is the loop that goes around this upper screw broke apart, so it sags down. Should be able to remedy that when I put the interior back together towards the end of the project.  At least the trim isn't physically damaged.  When I first say this a few years ago, I thought that something behind the console had melted the trim, but this is the first time it's been off so good to know that wasn't technically the case.  So the heat in Texas melted the belt in the El Camino's 8 track player and it melted the insulation stuff on the AC lines in the Volvo. Summer sure is brutal in the south.   Everything large is shoved in the corner for the time being. Hopefully whoever moves in realizes that the garage door is too much of a pain to raise/lower every single day and will just use the carport instead.
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Jan 29, 2016 19:25
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Final Weekend Update: Working on some small issues in other cars before getting to major engine/trans stuff in the Volvo. First up was the rear windows in the Hornet. Both had come loose from the channel they were at one point attached to so they would just randomly fall down when rolling the window down. Took the whole assembly apart, epoxied the winows back in, and greased it all up. Seem to be fine now, just got to put the door panels back on this week at some point.  The driver's power window has been intermittent so I was going to put in a new motor, but it started working again after I pulled the door panel so instead I'm going to fix the drat power door locks. Situation was that you could hear each door lock motor engaging when you hit the switch, but nothing happened. Turns out there was a common problem where the plastic/rubber (?) grommets would straight-up melt. One was on the bottom of the door shell and the other was sorta stuck to the assembly. You can see where they remnants are in the photo. As you can probably guess, Ford hasn't made these in a while, but when they were using them they were in just about every model and it was for a long time so Dorman makes a reasonable replacement that is widely available. Took me a bit to find it, rockauto doesn't list it in the parts breakdown for the Mercury. All four motors still work, but the grommets need to be replaced and the only way to get new grommets is to just buy four new motors for like $10/ea. Might as well just replace them. Here's a NOS Ford one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/141844322468 And the Dorman one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/351047093006 The Mercury is going to be sitting for a bit while I wait for them to show up, but that gives me a chance to drill out the rivets holding the power window motor in and replace that. I really hate pulling these door panels off, they're just complicated enough that I'm worried it'll crack the plastic somewhere. Oh and I'm going to take apart the power antenna motor, apparently the cable snapped so I need to see if that's the case before buying a NOS one to replace it. I'll get some photos once I start to break it down. Anyway, I decided to do one thing to the Volvo to help get the transmission out easier.  The rusty old exhaust.  It's pretty old, gotta be from the nineties, if not as old as the car. The Y-pipe up to the cat is in great shape, interestingly, and would be totally reusable if anyone out there actually wanted to keep a PRV running, but yeah...  Pretty sure this wouldn't pass inspection anywhere outside of the south. Everything past the first muffler/resonator/whatever was full of holes.  That's it, now to drag it out without hitting the other cars. The screws on the u-bolts were surprisingly easy to remove with the impact. I'm used to exhaust bolts being a total nightmare, so that was a welcome shift.   I'm still trying to break it all apart so it'll fit in the trash. The muffler connection was so rotted that it fell apart immediately, the bolts around the y-pipe were easy to remove, but one of the bolts at the cat is stripping and will probably have to be cut off before I can trash it.
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Feb 1, 2016 05:08
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What are these bolts you speak of? If you're throwing out an exhaust, a sawzall is all the wrench you need. Even a hacksaw by hand will go through that quickly if you don't have a sawzall.
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Feb 1, 2016 23:34
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I don't have a sawzall and the blade on my hacksaw is kinda toast. Gonna grab a pack of blades this week and cut up the rest, it's short enough now that I can at least move it out of the way. Been working on the Merc some more while I wait for them to find a new tenant upstairs, can't risk having the engine apart yet.   Put the other pair of Bilsteins in the back. The Monroes that were back there were still holding air fine, but man there wasn't an ounce of push left in them. Can't wait to drive it with all four on there.  Gonna have to wait a bit, though, I somehow bought the wrong window motor and have another coming this week. Fortunately, Ford used the same motor for over twenty years so I can just use it to replace the broken one in the Lincoln. Oh yeah and I replaced the door lock motor on the same door. The original Ford assembly still works fine, so I just changed out the grommets so it would stay where it was supposed to. Probably will pull the other three door panels and do the same to their lock motors once my friend shows up with the window channel grease. Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Feb 8, 2016 |
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Feb 8, 2016 02:50
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Sir Tonk posted:
Was the motor actually running? Usually the ford motors just destroy the little gear plugs (horrid little rubbery busing things) that can be swapped for like $8. http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-74410-Window-Regulator-Gear/dp/B000CO96SG
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Feb 9, 2016 03:03
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It was working intermittently, I'm keeping it and will take it apart to see what happened. I've seen the innards for sale on rockauto and everyone suggests only ever buying Motorcraft motors. The Dorman one was only $40 and I needed it to work consistently, so just ate the cost. Same thing with the power antenna, but I haven't been able to get the case apart and I had to reinstall it so I could drive the car without a large hole in the trunk. From what I hear the cables snap on those after awhile and it probably isn't going to be fixable. I want to see either way, the motor is definitely still working fine in it.
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Feb 12, 2016 01:10
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So I finally got a new neighbor upstairs and he's only parking a bike in the garage, so i can proceed with the project unhindered. Been trying to get the Hornet and Mercury back in action the past few weeks, but I'm at a wall until my friend shows up to help diagnose them so I don't waste more money throwing parts at them. I did get this swell battery disconnector thing for the Hornet since I still haven't figured out what's constantly drawing. It's much easier than yanking the cable every time I want to leave it sitting for more than a couple of days.  Also painting the original battery tray from the Merc, it had started to rust a bit.  Hopefully we'll be back in the engine pulling game this coming weekend. I've got everything disconnected in the Volvo's engine bay, so it should come out easily enough.
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May 31, 2016 02:53
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| # ? Apr 23, 2024 20:24 |
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Use saran wrap on the rim of that por 15 or you'll never get it open again. Although it looks like you've got a pour hole - is that new? Probably only want to work out of a small container too in order to prevent moisture on the brush from getting into the can. Tray looks great though. Looking forward to Volvo updates! Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Jun 4, 2016 |
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Jun 4, 2016 20:39
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