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From what I have read online, I think my video card just died, but I don't have another box to test it in. Problem description: Last night during a game of Invisible Inc, both graphics and sound froze. It started with the sound becoming slower, until the same half second sound was repeated over and over. The computer became unresponsive. Upon reset, I got a BSOD with a 0x116 error. Also I read about the AMDA00 Interface device causing issues, but I can't update it's driver properly. Here is the BSOD basic info. BCCode: 116 BCP1: FFFFFA800591D4E0 BCP2: FFFFF880049FD978 BCP3: 0000000000000000 BCP4: 0000000000000002 OS Version: 6_1_7601 Service Pack: 1_0 Product: 256_1 Attempted fixes: Rolling back drivers, uninstalling the video card and letting it be detected (all through Networking Safe Mode). Tried a restore point to two days ago. Took out the card and dusted it too. Recent changes: Nothing has been changed since I put in a new mobo and HDD. Windows 7 has had a clean install on the SSD less than 3 months ago. No other issues have been encountered until last night. -- Operating system: Win 7 Professional 64bit SP1 System specs: Mobo: ASUS H97M PLUS CPU: Intel i5 4590 3.3Ghz HDD: 850 EVO 250GB + 2x 750GB WD Display Adapter: NVIDIA GTX 560. (old maybe dead?) RAM: 4GB @ 1333 Location: I have Googled and read the FAQ: Yes
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# ? May 29, 2015 03:38 |
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# ? Apr 24, 2024 06:20 |
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So the onboard video is working okay? The What PSU do you have? edit: meant to say video card Zogo fucked around with this message at 21:43 on May 30, 2015 |
# ? May 29, 2015 22:51 |
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Onboard video is fine. The PSU is an ANTEC TRUPOWER TRIO. TP3-550
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# ? May 30, 2015 16:11 |
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I think the videocard has likely failed if the onboard works. I would strongly recommend replacing the power supply along with it because you have an obsolete low-efficiency multi-rail model that isn't meant for use with modern hardware. I'd also recommend a RAM upgrade, it's rather critical if you only have a single 4GB DIMM in there. Dual-channel (two matched modules) DDR3-1600 is the minimum needed for normal system performance, with DDR3-1866 or 2133 recommended for optimal performance since it's not any more expensive. 4GB is also painfully little RAM, I'd definitely go with 16GB if you can afford it and plan to use the system for awhile, 8GB is the bare minimum though.
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# ? May 30, 2015 16:21 |
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Just noticed that I meant to say the *video card had likely failed. Fixed that.
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# ? May 30, 2015 21:44 |
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I replaced the card yesterday. It was on on the fly choice, but I got a R9 270. Performance seems fine with it. I didn't realise how expensive it would be to replace its modern equivalent though. Things always break when money is a little tight. My ram is in 2 sets of 2gb, which is better than one of 4 yeah? Also what kind of PSU? Thanks very much for these suggestions too!
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# ? May 31, 2015 06:48 |
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Here's a Rosewill Valens 80+ Gold 700W for $69.99, that's 90% efficient versus the ~82% efficiency offered by your current power supply, and is a pretty good quality model that's an excellent value. You don't really need 700W, but the next cheapest model is 500W for $10 less, and I don't really think that's worth it. Your current power supply needs to be replaced because it's from 2006, and upon further review it has no OverCurrent Protection (OCP), it blew up under JonnyGuru's max load test. Power supplies also deliver lower quality power, run less efficiently, and are less able to respond to heavy load as they age. 2x2GB of DDR3-1333 isn't too bad, but I would recommend an upgrade as 4GB of RAM just feels slow, and running at only DDR3-1333 will impact system performance. Here's 8GB (2x4GB) of G.Skill DDR3-1866 for $52.99, or you might consider jumping straight to 16GB. Here's a review showing the effect of different memory speeds, historically it hasn't mattered much but modern games like Thief are starting to care a lot more about memory bandwidth. Since faster memory doesn't cost any more I recommend it, though to go above DDR3-1866 you need to get higher-voltage overclocking RAM (I got this RAM). It's usually pretty painless to just drop it in and enable the XMP profile in the BIOS, but if you'd rather stay at stock even 8GB of DDR3-1866 is a pretty big performance boost over 4GB of DDR3-1333.
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# ? May 31, 2015 14:33 |
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# ? Apr 24, 2024 06:20 |
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Thanks for that advice, especially about the PSU. I realise I've had it since 2008 and its the only original part of my old rig (apart from the case). I'll definitely replace that next. Since i upgrade CPU/Mobo and to an SSD, nothing has felt slow, but I'll upgrade the RAM as soon as it does.
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# ? May 31, 2015 16:13 |