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Dreylad posted:I didn't know about using chalky watercolours as pigment, although I had a suspicion there was a way to get pigment colours without paying miniature paint companies a lot of money for them. Thanks thread! Avoid Michaels, go support your local supplier, odds are their prices are better too. You can just straight up buy pigments, then you are only getting pigment and no filler.
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 19:02 |
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 23:47 |
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Yeah, I just bought a bunch of pigments for use in making paints from scratch and they've been great for any modelling task you care to name. You can buy a couple of pots the size of a foundation container in an array of colors. It'll give you more pigment than you'll be able to use in a lifetime, plus you can mix the stuff to make your own shades. Mine came from https://earthpigments.com/
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 20:05 |
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SkyeAuroline posted:
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 20:26 |
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Geometrical designs on a curved surface are rough. You can also make a custom decal and print it on transfer paper (or I think there might be websites that do this for you?)
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 20:33 |
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If you are going to freehand a pattern like that. Try doing all of the straight lins first, so it's a grid. You could possibly stencil the grid using thin model masking tape to do one set of lines, then mask again for the other direction. Then go back and paint in the break points afterwards.
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 20:38 |
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Flipswitch posted:For poo poo like this I'd highly recommend buying or making a stencil unless you're one of those freehand wizard lunatics. I was only doing it once, so probably not worth a stencil in this case. I am considering one for hazard stripes though, when I go back to my IW. Plus, in this case, it basically went "if I don't try it, I'll never know if it's reasonable to freehand; if I do try it and it goes badly, at least it's still more painted than most of my opponents". Waiting on the last bits of highlights to cure before I varnish him and get him on a base. e2: oh gently caress there's a tiny spill of bronze I need to fix too e: Lovely Joe Stalin posted:If you are going to freehand a pattern like that. Try doing all of the straight lins first, so it's a grid. Then go back and paint in the break points afterwards.
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 20:39 |
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:If you are going to freehand a pattern like that. Try doing all of the straight lins first, so it's a grid. You could possibly stencil the grid using thin model masking tape to do one set of lines, then mask again for the other direction. Then go back and paint in the break points afterwards. There's another trick with freehanding that dovetails into the watercolour conversation - sketch your design with watercolours and finalise it before you apply the acrylics. If you varnish the surface beforehand you can erase any watercolours with a damp brush which makes painting with them incredibly easy. For my next freehand I'm thinking of just using watercolours and locking it in with varnish.
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 21:05 |
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freehanding is 100% easier if you learn to do it with things that can look organic instead of exact. lightning, graffiti, arabic script, damage, handprints, filth. don't think that painting graffiti on a miniature is as easy to do as RL but you don't need perfect lines as badly. also, marine shoulder pads look like they're a big flat east surface to learn with, but that is a cruel lie. they are a weird loving dome that makes freehand three times as hard. (near)cylinders like greaves or the blank back of a power fist are much easier learning surfaces if you're painting marines. vehicle doors or flat shields taken (or printed) from another model kit are even easier. if you're gonna be learning on a shoulder pad, make it one that isn't glued on. (they aren't that hard to pop/break off and replace, either.) it makes it a lot easier to dunk in isopropyl if you don't like it.
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 21:43 |
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SkyeAuroline posted:
Quoting this for attention and adding to my last comment. There is a "trick" with these Celtic knot type designs. You want to paint the entire thing as solid lines first before you split the lines to make the knot appear. This tutorial summarises it nicely https://jaiunplanningcharg.wordpress.com/2021/02/10/tutorial-celtic-knot/
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 22:16 |
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Z the IVth posted:Quoting this for attention and adding to my last comment. I hate how simple and obvious this is because I would have never thought of it.
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 22:26 |
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Decided to give it a go because I can't stop myself. 1. Watercolour guides 2. Stroke one way 3. Stroke the other way 4. Clean up and make gross cuts 5. Make holes bigger 6. Make small cuts between the bands 7. Tidy up even more, highlight and clean off guides. With practice it can probably be made even sharper but this is really a design that would be best done as a decal.
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 23:18 |
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Z the IVth posted:
I made an even more complicated version of this pattern as a guitar headstock inlay for one I build ~6 years ago. I'll never make that mistake again.
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 23:21 |
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 23:47 |
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And as marine sized TIMG that looks awesome.
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 23:22 |