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Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Dreylad posted:

I didn't know about using chalky watercolours as pigment, although I had a suspicion there was a way to get pigment colours without paying miniature paint companies a lot of money for them. Thanks thread!

I'll go check out Michaels and see what I can find. Sadly all the little cool art stores around here have closed down since COVID. I'm lucky the hobby store is still around.

Avoid Michaels, go support your local supplier, odds are their prices are better too. You can just straight up buy pigments, then you are only getting pigment and no filler.

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grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Yeah, I just bought a bunch of pigments for use in making paints from scratch and they've been great for any modelling task you care to name. You can buy a couple of pots the size of a foundation container in an array of colors. It'll give you more pigment than you'll be able to use in a lifetime, plus you can mix the stuff to make your own shades. Mine came from https://earthpigments.com/

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


SkyeAuroline posted:


"Huh, it's all right angles and straight lines. It can't be that bad."
20 minutes later...


There was an attempt. The paint is already thick enough on this shoulder that I'm just leaving it. I'm not stripping the whole guy for lopsided freehand.
If my brush would stop fraying on me every 5 seconds that would really help. Also if Thousand Sons Blue was not the most transparent "base" paint GW offers.
For poo poo like this I'd highly recommend buying or making a stencil unless you're one of those freehand wizard lunatics.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Geometrical designs on a curved surface are rough. You can also make a custom decal and print it on transfer paper (or I think there might be websites that do this for you?)

Lovely Joe Stalin
Jun 12, 2007

Our Lovely Wang
If you are going to freehand a pattern like that. Try doing all of the straight lins first, so it's a grid. You could possibly stencil the grid using thin model masking tape to do one set of lines, then mask again for the other direction. Then go back and paint in the break points afterwards.

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020

Flipswitch posted:

For poo poo like this I'd highly recommend buying or making a stencil unless you're one of those freehand wizard lunatics.

I was only doing it once, so probably not worth a stencil in this case. I am considering one for hazard stripes though, when I go back to my IW. Plus, in this case, it basically went "if I don't try it, I'll never know if it's reasonable to freehand; if I do try it and it goes badly, at least it's still more painted than most of my opponents".
Waiting on the last bits of highlights to cure before I varnish him and get him on a base.

e2: oh gently caress there's a tiny spill of bronze I need to fix too

e:

Lovely Joe Stalin posted:

If you are going to freehand a pattern like that. Try doing all of the straight lins first, so it's a grid. Then go back and paint in the break points afterwards.
In hindsight this is absolutely what I should have done. Learning experience.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Lovely Joe Stalin posted:

If you are going to freehand a pattern like that. Try doing all of the straight lins first, so it's a grid. You could possibly stencil the grid using thin model masking tape to do one set of lines, then mask again for the other direction. Then go back and paint in the break points afterwards.

There's another trick with freehanding that dovetails into the watercolour conversation - sketch your design with watercolours and finalise it before you apply the acrylics. If you varnish the surface beforehand you can erase any watercolours with a damp brush which makes painting with them incredibly easy.

For my next freehand I'm thinking of just using watercolours and locking it in with varnish.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
freehanding is 100% easier if you learn to do it with things that can look organic instead of exact. lightning, graffiti, arabic script, damage, handprints, filth. don't think that painting graffiti on a miniature is as easy to do as RL but you don't need perfect lines as badly.

also, marine shoulder pads look like they're a big flat east surface to learn with, but that is a cruel lie. they are a weird loving dome that makes freehand three times as hard. (near)cylinders like greaves or the blank back of a power fist are much easier learning surfaces if you're painting marines. vehicle doors or flat shields taken (or printed) from another model kit are even easier.

if you're gonna be learning on a shoulder pad, make it one that isn't glued on. (they aren't that hard to pop/break off and replace, either.) it makes it a lot easier to dunk in isopropyl if you don't like it.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

SkyeAuroline posted:


"Huh, it's all right angles and straight lines. It can't be that bad."
20 minutes later...


There was an attempt. The paint is already thick enough on this shoulder that I'm just leaving it. I'm not stripping the whole guy for lopsided freehand.
If my brush would stop fraying on me every 5 seconds that would really help. Also if Thousand Sons Blue was not the most transparent "base" paint GW offers.

Quoting this for attention and adding to my last comment.

There is a "trick" with these Celtic knot type designs. You want to paint the entire thing as solid lines first before you split the lines to make the knot appear.

This tutorial summarises it nicely

https://jaiunplanningcharg.wordpress.com/2021/02/10/tutorial-celtic-knot/

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord

Z the IVth posted:

Quoting this for attention and adding to my last comment.

There is a "trick" with these Celtic knot type designs. You want to paint the entire thing as solid lines first before you split the lines to make the knot appear.

This tutorial summarises it nicely

https://jaiunplanningcharg.wordpress.com/2021/02/10/tutorial-celtic-knot/

I hate how simple and obvious this is because I would have never thought of it.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe


Decided to give it a go because I can't stop myself.

1. Watercolour guides
2. Stroke one way
3. Stroke the other way
4. Clean up and make gross cuts
5. Make holes bigger
6. Make small cuts between the bands
7. Tidy up even more, highlight and clean off guides.

With practice it can probably be made even sharper but this is really a design that would be best done as a decal.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Z the IVth posted:



Decided to give it a go because I can't stop myself.

1. Watercolour guides
2. Stroke one way
3. Stroke the other way
4. Clean up and make gross cuts
5. Make holes bigger
6. Make small cuts between the bands
7. Tidy up even more, highlight and clean off guides.

With practice it can probably be made even sharper but this is really a design that would be best done as a decal.

I made an even more complicated version of this pattern as a guitar headstock inlay for one I build ~6 years ago. I'll never make that mistake again.

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Issaries
Sep 15, 2008

"Negotiations were going well. They were very impressed by my hat." -Issaries the Concilliator"

And as marine sized TIMG that looks awesome. :hellyeah:

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