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Funny story about kill switches: I was starting up my old '80 Yamaha XJ650(which usually takes a few tries), and when I took my finger off the start button, the starter kept cranking. Oh poo poo. I hit the kill switch. No dice. Keep toggling the kill switch. Still not working. Take the key out. Still cranking. I sat there and listened to it drain the whole battery. Then I went inside and posted it on craigslist for $300. gently caress that thing.
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Feb 20, 2009 15:33
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Has anyone ever had aluminum wheels trued? My bandit has dents in both the wheels. I'm assuming that the PO either ran something over at speed or hit a gnarly pothole. I'm guessing they're both from one incident since they're both the same size. You cant really eyeball the wheels and see them, but if you spin the wheel, you can see the dent go by. I dont notice it when I'm riding, but it just bothers me. They are the same wheels as the 2000-era GSXR1000, so 3 spoke aluminum wheels. Is it ridiculously expensive to have someone straighten them? Where would I even go go for something like that? I can pick up straight used wheels for around $100 a wheel, so I'm just trying to decide which way to go.
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Feb 20, 2009 16:11
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Buying new tires for my 636 today, anyone have any opinions on either Michelin Pilot Power 2CT or Bridgestone BT-106s? The Michelin's are about $50 more than the Bridgestones. I live in florida so there is ALOT of flat ground so something with a harder center would be good.
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Feb 20, 2009 16:47
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Phat_Albert posted:Has anyone ever had aluminum wheels trued? My bandit has dents in both the wheels. I'm assuming that the PO either ran something over at speed or hit a gnarly pothole. I'm guessing they're both from one incident since they're both the same size. I have seen places offer wheel refurbishing services, but they usually run for well over the cost of a comparable used wheel. Are you sure they are actually dents? I have seen different forged wheels that look odd watching them spin, but are balanced perfectly and like that from the factory.
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Feb 20, 2009 17:16
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I always use the key to turn it off. The only time I use the kill switch is if I'm creeping down a lose rocky steep road and want to just ease the bike down using only the clutch and front brake.
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Feb 20, 2009 17:39
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Phat_Albert posted:Has anyone ever had aluminum wheels trued? My bandit has dents in both the wheels. I'm assuming that the PO either ran something over at speed or hit a gnarly pothole. I'm guessing they're both from one incident since they're both the same size. Well, the thing is: Most wheels will cost around 100$ to get trued. So you can true those ones...or you can buy a second set and have a set to swap. I'd buy a second set. Saves you the hassle when it comes to mounting new tires. Just drag your backup set of rims into the shop, and you're good to go. I rode the 929 with a massive dent in the rear for 15k, no problems. If it holds air, and you don't feel anything, it's fine. mattfl posted:Buying new tires for my 636 today, anyone have any opinions on either Michelin Pilot Power 2CT or Bridgestone BT-106s? The Michelin's are about $50 more than the Bridgestones. I live in florida so there is ALOT of flat ground so something with a harder center would be good. I'd recommend something else entirely...a Sport Touring style compound, rather than a more aggressive compound like the Street/Track stuff, which will flat spot like crazy. Find some Metzler Z6s, Pilot Road 2s, whatever, it's not like you're going to wear out the edges on them.
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Feb 20, 2009 17:46
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Phat_Albert posted:You cant really eyeball the wheels and see them, but if you spin the wheel, you can see the dent go by. I dont notice it when I'm riding, but it just bothers me. There are services that talk about fixing wheels in the back of bike mags, I'd call one or two of those. just to see what the prices are.
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Feb 20, 2009 21:25
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:there's a safety reason to use the kill switch. when the engine is running, it's always better to have your hands on the handlebars. that's why they teach you to use it in the MSF class. i would just ignore that manual. the worst thing that could happen is the switch could wear out, and parts for those things aren't expensive or hard to find. I also read somewhere that using the kill switch can burn out the ignition. Not sure if thats true or not (I'd like to call BS but I'm not an electrical engineer)
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Feb 20, 2009 21:58
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THe kill switch shorts out the coils. So yes, it could potentially hurt your points, condensor, or CDI unit.
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Feb 20, 2009 22:07
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Prince posted:I notice that when yuou use the kill switch the engine stops a lot faster (ie 1-2 revs) than the ignition (5-6 revs). There must be some difference here? When I took the MSF course I was told to always use the kill switch, with the logic that it's easier to replace a well used switch than a well used ignition.
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Feb 20, 2009 22:16
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Prince posted:I notice that when yuou use the kill switch the engine stops a lot faster (ie 1-2 revs) than the ignition (5-6 revs). There must be some difference here? I had an old Jawa Moped with a kill switch and was told to use the decompression lever to stop the engine because the kill switch was poorly made and shorted things out if you "over used" it. I also heard stories of the thyristor going bad faster, but nobody understands thyristors, so that's probably an old wives tale. So in short, if your bike was made in a soviet bloc country, you may want to rewire it with good components or something.
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Feb 20, 2009 22:20
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Nerobro posted:The kill switch shorts out the coils. So yes, it could potentially hurt your points, condensor, or CDI unit. The power for the coils on my Hondas went from battery->fuse box->ignition switch->kill switch->coil. In that case it was just the same as turning the ignition off. My Vespa did short the coil to ground. I'm guessing the GS is the same way? I'm going to stop using the kill at all in that case.
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Feb 20, 2009 22:21
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OrangeFurious posted:When I took the MSF course I was told to always use the kill switch, with the logic that it's easier to replace a well used switch than a well used ignition. Where's the logic in that? You still have to turn it to off and remove the key...  MSF instructors say some weird poo poo.
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Feb 20, 2009 22:31
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Thats always been my theory. Unless you are in an emergency situation that calls for the killswitch, just use the key. Theres no point to the killswitch under normal circumstances.
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Feb 20, 2009 22:57
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Using the kill switch means I don't have to take my hands off the bars to turn the bike off, though, which is useful when I want to nonchalantly coast into my driveway. Sure, I could reach my hand into the middle to turn the key, but I usually turn my bike off while I'm turning, so...
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Feb 20, 2009 23:17
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...so one hand it 
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Feb 20, 2009 23:19
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Z3n posted:I'd recommend something else entirely...a Sport Touring style compound, rather than a more aggressive compound like the Street/Track stuff, which will flat spot like crazy. Find some Metzler Z6s, Pilot Road 2s, whatever, it's not like you're going to wear out the edges on them. The Dunlop RoadSmart is getting serious accolades, especially for wet performance. They'll be what I order for my next set of tires.
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Feb 20, 2009 23:44
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Phat_Albert posted:...so one hand it Killswitch/ignition now officially ranks with oil discussion and GT- in the pantheon of topics that constitute a  in AII'll just take up no-handing it instead. That way I have both hands free to prop myself up when I run into my parked car. 
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Feb 20, 2009 23:56
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You know who else used the killswitch? Thats right
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Feb 21, 2009 00:44
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Speaking of Hitler, my ignition has been acting erratically lately. I switch it on, all good. As soon as I hit the starter button, there's a little click as if a fuse pops and all is dark. All fuses are ok. With a bit of jiggling the key, and later I found it was more effective to bump the rear wheel into the ground if on the centre stand, it lights up again. My theory is that the little click is the starter relay operating for a fraction of a second and that gunk/corrosion is dicking up my motorcycle starting experience. Can you open those little bastards and clean them out or are they tamper proof, replace only?
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Feb 21, 2009 00:56
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Ola posted:Speaking of Hitler, my ignition has been acting erratically lately. I switch it on, all good. As soon as I hit the starter button, there's a little click as if a fuse pops and all is dark. All fuses are ok. With a bit of jiggling the key, and later I found it was more effective to bump the rear wheel into the ground if on the centre stand, it lights up again. They're typically tamper proof. If you're willing to do a little wiring, any starter solenoid will work. OEM stuff is plug and play, but I don't know how easy it'll be for you to find parts.
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Feb 21, 2009 01:02
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Z3n posted:If you're willing to do a little wiring, any starter solenoid will work. I meant that I suspect the actual key module has corroded insides, being exposed to weather and all. I gave it a shot of 5-56 (WD40 equiv) and it hasn't given me any grief since but I'd hate for something so trivial leave me stranded or cut out on the highway.
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Feb 21, 2009 01:15
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Anybody ride a Triumph Scrambler? I'm looking at them for their versatility and looks but their performance specs seem like wouldn't let the bike keep pace/pass easily on the highway (I would obviously need a windshield as well). If you ride one, how well does it do on highways?
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Feb 21, 2009 16:14
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Milton posted:Anybody ride a Triumph Scrambler? I'm looking at them for their versatility and looks but their performance specs seem like wouldn't let the bike keep pace/pass easily on the highway (I would obviously need a windshield as well). If you ride one, how well does it do on highways? Hey yo. I don't ride a Scrambler, but I do ride a Thruxton and have had a lot of experience with the Bonneville. The Thruxton is tuned a little more aggressively, but otherwise all three bikes use an almost identical drivetrain - the same 865cc parallel twin. The Scrambler is most closely analogous to the Bonneville, and though it's not the fastest bike in the world it's more than capable of getting around the (typically) high speed freeways in Southern California. Don't expect to lift the front end up comin' off every stop light, but you'll have no problem getting past cagers. You can get it up to 80-90mph without breakin' a sweat, and it'll go into the hundreds but it won't like it much. If performance is a big concern, there are a few easy and reasonably cheap ways to modify it and boost the horsepower. If you check out British Customs they have a few performance upgrade packages that will give it anywhere from an additional five (pipes) to twenty horsepower (pipes, plug wires, airbox elimination, etc). Brit Customs has a few show Thruxtons they've bumped from 69bhp to over 100bhp. Like any bike, it's all what in how much you want to spend. The only caveat I'd throw out regarding the Scrambler is (from what I've read on ADV Rider) it looks a lot more versatile than it is. If you're looking for a street bike that will handle some gravel, potholes and damp, it's not a bad call. If you're looking to do serious off road riding you may be disappointed.
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Feb 21, 2009 21:36
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OrangeFurious posted:
Alright. That's actually about what I figured. I'm not looking to ride trails- just dirt roads/gravel and maybe a little light off-road. I'll check out British Customs. I currently ride a Vulcan 750 so, from what you're saying, the stock performance should be about the same and I can make a couple steps up with these upgrades.
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Feb 21, 2009 22:36
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Milton posted:Alright. That's actually about what I figured. I'm not looking to ride trails- just dirt roads/gravel and maybe a little light off-road. Good luck. I love the looks of the Scrambler and the parallel twin Triumphs in general. Before my Thruxton I rode a Honda VT1100. The Bonneville felt pretty comparable in terms of performance.
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Feb 21, 2009 22:41
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I recently installed a new top end on my '88 rm125. It isn't yet running because the carburetor is pretty busted, but after doing a compression test on it I couldn't get more than ~75psi. I'm sure the top end is good, so my question is: what is causing the low compression reading? could the carb. not functioning affect the compression reading? or is there any reason why it could be inaccurate?
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Feb 23, 2009 06:13
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are you opening the throttle?
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Feb 23, 2009 07:02
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I have a question regarding intersections. I just got my first bike and while riding around on the weekend I found myself in the situation illustrated below. It was in a 60kph zone and I was coming up the traffic lights and someone was waiting to cross over. I realised that if he didn't see me and he pulled out then there wasn't really much I could do to avoid him. Any tips on what to do in this situation, and how to avoid it in the first place? 
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Feb 23, 2009 10:34
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Swerve I suppose, either lane depending on how far in he's gone. I'd choose to risk of a head-on collision over a guaranteed t-bone. Preventing it is obviously better, you did good by noticing how the situation could turn bad rapidly. Being visible with headlights, brights colors etc is one thing, another is being prepared to brake hard and how to do it safely without locking up your tires and arriving at the scene of the accident already crashed. Practice emergency braking and avoidance swerving often (gradually! and in a safe place to do so), cover the lever and pedal when you approach situations like this to minimize reaction times. Moving your eyes around is important too, you can predict a car's movement quite often by looking at its tires, its driver etc. If it looks like he's wondering if you're far enough away that he might make it across he'll be staring at you, maybe leaning forward a bit and the tires will be rolling very slowly. In these situations I slow down, perhaps inviting him across which is bad but also shortening my braking distance and giving me more room to act. Some times I've wanted to smash into non-yielding idiot drivers just to spite them but in the long run that is a poor decision.
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Feb 23, 2009 11:14
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60kph? that's not too bad. if you've got enough time to react, you've got enough to swerve or brake i would think. cover the brake, maybe slow down a little in case. swerving may or may not help in this case, there's not many places to go.Ola posted:Preventing it is obviously better, you did good by noticing how the situation could turn bad rapidly. quote:Practice emergency braking and avoidance swerving often (gradually! and in a safe place to do so),
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Feb 23, 2009 13:21
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I hosed with my bike over the weekend and noticed the small crack in my muffler has blossomed into a large fissure. I can't afford a new exhaust but unless the guy is a total drunk lazy rear end, it's not going to pass inspection this way (luckily it's not due until the end of May). Can I get some of that exhaust wrap and just wrap up the muffler to cover the unsightly blemish? It's not so large that all the exhaust is escaping out the hole, there's still plenty of pressure at the rear. 2nd portion of stupid question: The bike has the original 4/2 exhaust on it. The mufflers are welded onto the pipes. Can I just saw the pipes above the weld and slip on some aftermarket megaphone exhausts without too much trouble?
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Feb 23, 2009 17:57
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Nerobro posted:are you opening the throttle? No, actually. Does this make a difference?
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Feb 23, 2009 22:42
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Nihilanth posted:No, actually. Does this make a difference? Yes, much in the same way as it does when the engine is running. Compression tests are always done with wide open throttle, otherwise there's not enough air coming into the cylinder.
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Feb 23, 2009 22:51
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Nihilanth posted:No, actually. Does this make a difference? Yes it does. Also you may get some lower compression numbers if you haven't run the bike and seating the rings.
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Feb 23, 2009 22:54
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What's the best chain lube and where to get? How often should I lube it up? Just when it visibly might need some? How often are you supposed to change the chain and I guess sprocket, anyways? My bike is an 01 with 7,500 miles. Should I change the air filter? Ugh, more insurance woes. My insurance is $451 more a year for comprehensive (Theft/vandalism) with a $500 deductible. My bike is garage kept and all that but I do ride fairly frequently and take it to school. It's only worth about $3,000-4,000. You guys think it's worth holding onto? I'm paying $800 a year through Geico. But I might give state farm a call tomorrow. Although I'm not under 25 and with multiple vehicles. I was involved in a parking lot fender bender last year were the blame was split. (Although it was her fault for running into my open door). Should I even bother telling insurance companies something like this?h Because even though I'm not at fault it jacks my rates up. A claim was filed but nothing obviously went through police or anything. Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 14:33 on Feb 24, 2009 |
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Feb 24, 2009 14:14
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100 Years in Iraq posted:I hosed with my bike over the weekend and noticed the small crack in my muffler has blossomed into a large fissure. I can't afford a new exhaust but unless the guy is a total drunk lazy rear end, it's not going to pass inspection this way (luckily it's not due until the end of May). Can I get some of that exhaust wrap and just wrap up the muffler to cover the unsightly blemish? It's not so large that all the exhaust is escaping out the hole, there's still plenty of pressure at the rear. I wouldnt wrap it. That just tends to blow out quickly anyway. Have it welded if you can, or if you want to go the ultra cheap route, cover it in jbweld and call it a day. I wouldnt count on the OEM exhaust being anything close to the size of most slip-on pipes.
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Feb 24, 2009 15:22
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Christoff posted:Ugh, more insurance woes. My insurance is $451 more a year for comprehensive (Theft/vandalism) with a $500 deductible. My bike is garage kept and all that but I do ride fairly frequently and take it to school. It's only worth about $3,000-4,000. You guys think it's worth holding onto? I'm paying $800 a year through Geico. But I might give state farm a call tomorrow. Although I'm not under 25 and with multiple vehicles. Call around, call around, call around. Geico wanted $2800 from me. Progressive wanted $1600, Liberty Mutual only wants $900. The lesson is: CALL AROUND.
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Feb 24, 2009 15:55
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Phat_Albert posted:I wouldnt wrap it. That just tends to blow out quickly anyway. Have it welded if you can, or if you want to go the ultra cheap route, cover it in jbweld and call it a day. Can I pick up JB at the local autoparts store? I've looked around online, and there are several companies that make exhausts that will fit my bike. They are dorky and kind of ugly, but I don't need a hawt carbon muffler on my poopy-looking CB. I also can't afford to drop $300+ on a new exhaust system so I was looking for an easier fix. I would guess that the baffling is completely shot inside, these being stock and the bike pushing 27 years old.
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Feb 24, 2009 16:02
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My local NAPA sells jbweld, so I'm going to guess that yes you can find it at most auto places. Its also in most hardware stores. Can you weld, or do you know someone who can? Your best bet for the exhaust is to take some measurements and head to JCWhitney.com or something like that and try to find an exhaust that is close to the diameter of the part you are cutting off. If you can size it right, and get a clamp-on exhaust, that would be ideal. Pick through here and see what you can find: http://www.jcwhitney.com/Motorcycle-Exhaust/600014658.jcw Something like the 16 L with tapered end would probably work OK, and you should be able to get any reducers you need from a muffler shop. Just make sure to check the ID measurements listed on the page. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Feb 24, 2009 |
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Feb 24, 2009 16:33
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