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Big Steveo posted:As an electrician in Australia, I am horribly confused with all you American talk. As a curiosity, anyone care to give me a low-down on the following: I'm just an electrical engineer, so I will leave many of the comments to actual professional electricians, but I will answer a few things (to the best of my knowledge) quickly: 1. Who knows. History. We have a whole country full of 120V distribution equipment and devices which use it. I think a switch to a higher voltage will probably never happen. People are generally not even aware that there could be another option and that it might be better (from a cost perspective at least). 2. Yes, it is because of the lower voltages. It's equivalent to having 100A service in Australia, which I would guess is probably not too abnormal? Yes, it would be beneficial to switch to a higher household voltage if only to save on the cost of copper conductors. Many industrial applications (well, in a data center at least) can/will use a tap across two phases of a three phase supply, which in our case is about 208V (our standard three phase supply voltage is 415V I believe). 3. I've not seen cables that look exactly like that (except the top one). What you appear to have there is what I would call NM ("Romex") cable. It's a plastic insulated jacket around the conductors. The conductors run together through the cable, not separated like in your picture. The ground conductor is typically not shielded (covered in plastic). You can look up tables for such things. By gauge people mean AWG, American Wire Gauge. Current code requires AWG 12 for most runs and can be used up to 20A; this is about 2.05mm/3.31mm^2. AWG 14 is permitted for end runs to lights and can be used up to 15A; this is about 1.63mm/2.08mm^2. 30A circuits requires AWG10 and, at least in the few cases I've needed it, are generally 240V circuits. (American homes are fed from a 3-tap transformer and thus get the center tap as "neutral", 180 degree phase as +120, and the out of phase equivalent at -120V. The breaker boxes are wired such that one leg uses the -120V as neutral and "neutral" as hot, so you still get +120V while the other leg uses "neutral" as neutral and +120V as... +120V) 5. Residual Current Devices are called Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI) and are required in all circuits in damp/wet areas, outside, in bathrooms, and at kitchen countertops.
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Apr 27, 2009 05:09
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OK, I'm starting to get it. With the Centre tap:  BTW; That's how we draw transformers with a primary coil on the left, magnetic circuit in the centre followed by secondary coils with a centre tap. So are houses normally wired up in this arrangement? Are all houses provided with the 3 cables? 1. Fair enough, I'm sure the cost of changing every bit of equipment in the country will be far too much cost. But it will be a good way to create jobs. Quick inform Obama. 2. Thought so, Older houses in Australia have 40A Main Switches but anything built after 1980 will have 100A. 3. Onto my other picture of the 3 different cables. The 2nd cable is mostly used in domestic wiring, there was a while where the Earth was unsheathed but that's been the design for quite some time. The 3rd one I don't even see much of, usually when 3 phase is required, the insulation needs to be stronger so we use a Orange Circular Cable. The second one is also available in Orange Circular. 4 (or is it 5?): Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters? try saying that underwater with a mouth full of marbles. RCD's are compulsary on all lighting and power circuits.
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Apr 27, 2009 07:45
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Why are you using 50Hz in Australia instead of the much better 60Hz? 1) Blame George Westinghouse. He picked 100V as the standard. It crept up a bit due to voltage drop until 120V became the new standard. It's stuck because it's so much safer for consumers than 240V, letalone 480V delta which would be awesome from an engineering standpoint, but electrocutions would skyrocket. 3) Our cables are similar. There are tables that compare the two; your cables would not be legal in the US because the guage is too small for the current rating. 24A T&E cable is about the same physical size as our 15A #14-2, IIRC. And it's strictly for fire safety; US electrical code is far more conservative than codes used in other countries. 4) The neutral wire is grounded at the utility pole/transformer, and grounded again at the panel to the house. In a structure, the neutral is grounded at one point, and one point only, regardless of how many places it's bonded (water pipe and ground rod were common until everyone started using plastic pipe). 5) GFCIs are required anywhere near water (outside, garages, kitchens), and reduce fault current to 5ma. In the newest code change, AFCI (arc-fault) are required just about everywhere.
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Apr 27, 2009 10:40
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The wikipedia page on "electricity distribution" has a much better picture than the one I was about to draw. In general, there's 3-phase power coming into a neighborhood substation, usually at a reasonably high voltage (15-38kVAC, 60Hz). It's stepped down with banks of transformers connected delta-delta to around 4160V. One phase goes to each residential street, where small (75kVA) transformers step the voltage down to 120/240 single phase. If there's industrial/commercial applications, then two or three of the phases are sent down the poles. 3-phase power to small commercial buildings (a bank, etc) is typically supplied from the street by 3 transformers, one of which is center-tapped, so there's 3-phase 240V with two 120V legs off of one of the delta legs. Larger commercial areas get 3 phase power connected in a delta-wye to have 277/480 power for the "high voltage" applications, like lighting and air conditioning. Most commercial lights are run at 277V. Air handlers, recirculating pumps, and the like are usually 3-phase 480. Transformers in the building change the 480 into 120/208 with another delta-wye transformer. Delta-wye is also known as delta-star.
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Apr 27, 2009 12:28
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grover posted:Why are you using 50Hz in Australia instead of the much better 60Hz? I have heard many times that having a higher voltage will result in more electrocutions. I don't get it. Yes, an arc will occur over a larger distance... but most people are not ever near electrical arcs. It seems just as dangerous to me. There seems to be some endless debate about whether it's "better" to have more voltage/lower current or vice-versa, but it sure seems like a moot point. I've heard from some British electricians who have seen U.S. electrical work that they are amazed at how "lax" American rules are. I didn't ask specifics but they were sure under the impression that most U.S. homes would fail a U.K. miserably. All hearsay though! I just looked it up: the 2008 code does require AFCIs basically everywhere! That's crazy. There are none in my old house. I've heard that they have a much higher tendency to trip incorrectly than normal overcurrent protection breakers. Is that true or just people wanting to complain about something? edit: I have a question about wiring in a U.S. home. I have a 10/3 NM, 12/2 NM, and 12/2 MC cable. I have an unfinished basement with a cinderblock foundation. I want to put some outlets on the walls. I plan to run a 4"x1"x4' board from the ceiling joists where the NM wiring is run down the cinderblock wall and fasten it with masonry screws. Then I want to mount a handy box to said piece of wood and run a cable to it. Can I just run MC cable and secure it properly, or does it have to be in EMT or Schedule 80 PVC up to the joists? Can I run MC cable EMT/PVC (I have more of this than 12/2 NM). I am guessing I cannot just staple NM to the wood as that is pretty exposed. Similarly I ran an outlet for a dryer when I first moved into the house and definitely didn't do it right. I want to go back and fix it now. Here's what it looks like (including my breaker box):  Click here for the full 1000x667 image.  Click here for the full 410x1000 image. Things that I think are wrong: NM cannot be just attached to the bottom of the joists like that, it needs to be up at least 1.25" in holes drilled through it, or protected in EMT/PVC 80. I used some EMT straps near the end by the dryer outlet (you can see them in the picture). I just didn't know any better, but I have NM staples now. I haven't changed them out because I think the NM has to go anyway. Also I think the NM running along that wood has to be protected too. Everything except that orange cable coming out of the right side of the breaker box (10/3 dryer wire) is not my doing. I put those orange labels on all of them to identify which circuit they were so I trace them all out. Anybody notice anything really egregious just from that picture? Lucid Smog fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Apr 27, 2009 |
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Apr 27, 2009 12:34
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I'm not an electrician by any stretch (and I'm Canadian anyway) but AFAIK that panel should be on a plywood sheet or something so that the wires can be stapled close to the panel. If you rewire that dryer.. give yourself some slack! Sheesh that wire is ran tight.
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Apr 27, 2009 18:20
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Lucid Smog posted:I have heard many times that having a higher voltage will result in more electrocutions. I don't get it. Yes, an arc will occur over a larger distance... but most people are not ever near electrical arcs. It seems just as dangerous to me. There seems to be some endless debate about whether it's "better" to have more voltage/lower current or vice-versa, but it sure seems like a moot point. Electric Current (1 second contact)/ Voltage required to produce the current with assumed body resistance @ 1000-100,000Ohms: 1 mA: Threshold of feeling, tingling sensation. 1-100V 5 mA: Accepted as maximum harmless current 5-500 V 10-20 mA: Beginning of sustained muscular contraction ("Can't let go" current.) 10-1000 V 100-300 mA Ventricular fibrillation, fatal if continued. Respiratory function continues. 100-10,000 V 6 A Sustained ventricular contraction followed by normal heart rhythm. (defibrillation). Temporary respiratory paralysis and possibly burns. 6000-600,000 V Lucid Smog posted:I've heard from some British electricians who have seen U.S. electrical work that they are amazed at how "lax" American rules are. I didn't ask specifics but they were sure under the impression that most U.S. homes would fail a U.K. miserably. All hearsay though! And no, a US job wouldn't pass in UK because the voltage, frequency and wire color would be all wrong, and it would all carry the wrong listing label 
grover fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Apr 27, 2009 |
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Apr 27, 2009 22:51
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IsaacNewton posted:I'm not an electrician by any stretch (and I'm Canadian anyway) but AFAIK that panel should be on a plywood sheet or something so that the wires can be stapled close to the panel. That would have been a good idea, the plywood. There is plywood around it to staple things to, but generally they just unstapled. Oh, I didn't realize it was that tight. I had an extra ten feet, but didn't want slack in the line so purposefully removed as much as possible. grover posted:Twice the voltage = twice the current. Ohms law. Twice the current means a higher incidence of fatal current going through the heart. Ohm's Law is V = I * R. If you increase the voltage by a factor two, the equivalent current is decreased by a factor of two for the same load. That's why you can run smaller conductors at higher voltages (and main distribution lines aren't 1 meter think copper). So, you increase the voltage to 240V but the current for the same body resistance is also half. If anything I would consider it safer, as I am usually quoted a current to stop a heart (in the low milliamps range) rather than a voltage. Though I am certain that the voltage has a role to play in killing someone. Either way, you can get electrocuted and have it completely bypass your heart. You're likely to feel very bad and have muscle spasms, but not die. Or you can be that unlucky bastard who gets killed by a ringing phone line.
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Apr 28, 2009 01:59
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Lucid Smog posted:edit: I have a question about wiring in a U.S. home. I have a 10/3 NM, 12/2 NM, and 12/2 MC cable. I have an unfinished basement with a cinderblock foundation. I want to put some outlets on the walls. I plan to run a 4"x1"x4' board from the ceiling joists where the NM wiring is run down the cinderblock wall and fasten it with masonry screws. Then I want to mount a handy box to said piece of wood and run a cable to it. Can I just run MC cable and secure it properly, or does it have to be in EMT or Schedule 80 PVC up to the joists? Can I run MC cable EMT/PVC (I have more of this than 12/2 NM). I am guessing I cannot just staple NM to the wood as that is pretty exposed. You can run NM exposed if you want, but you can't staple it to the bottoms of the joists. If you don't want to drill holes in your joists you can run it in EMT which would be strapped to the joists. NM cable must be secured within 12" of any box and within every 4.5 feet thereafter. Run between holes in joists counts as supported. You're going to be doing almost exactly the same thing with MC anyway. It has to be protected exactly like NM, or run exposed. The whole point of putting it deep in holes is so sheetrock screws don't hit it when sheetrock goes up. If you're not going to finish the basement, go ahead and run it exposed down the walls and at least 1.5" above the face of the joist if run parallel or through holes at least 1.5" away from the edge if run perpendicular. You can also put notches in the joists and put a "nail plate" over the notch, but I don't know of anyone that really likes notching joists.
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Apr 28, 2009 02:09
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Lucid Smog posted:Ohm's Law is V = I * R. If you increase the voltage by a factor two, the equivalent current is decreased by a factor of two for the same load. grover fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Apr 28, 2009 |
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Apr 28, 2009 03:11
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:You can run NM exposed if you want, but you can't staple it to the bottoms of the joists. If you don't want to drill holes in your joists you can run it in EMT which would be strapped to the joists. NM cable must be secured within 12" of any box and within every 4.5 feet thereafter. Run between holes in joists counts as supported. Cool, thanks for the info. I didn't realize I could run it exposed on a wall but not on the joist. There are already enough holes in that joist, I don't really want to be cocking my head up and drilling another 30. I'll probably run it through EMT, as soon as I find a cheap way to bend it (current thinking is to buy a $33 bender from Lowe's and return it). Can I use 3/8" EMT for 10/3w/ground or do I need to move up to 1/2"? I've never been clear if I could run NM in EMT of it had to be bare THHN/THWN. The MC will be running parallel to a joist so that is nice and easy. There are no plans to finish any of the basement in the near future, so I will leave the MC/NM as it is probably. Also here's a few more pictures of dubious work:  Click here for the full 1000x634 image. This picture depicts the bulk of cables that somebody else put in, along with my dryer wire, my ancient unused telephone service entrance, the incoming RG-6 cable line, and a white Cat-5 ethernet cable.  Click here for the full 1000x867 image. Here you can see how many of the circuits are run, through a single 5/8" hole I believe. I'm pretty sure if you do this you can to de-rate the current carrying capacities of those wires for heat. For some dumb reason many circuits are 14/2 romex. The yellow run runs to a bathroom that the people who flipped the house before I bought it installed (it powers a GFCI receptacle and a single light). All the 14/2 cables are on 15 amp circuits and nearly all run to the kitchen to power outlets and dedicated receptacles for things like fridge, microwave, range (gas range). Thanks for your input!
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Apr 28, 2009 03:27
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Lucid Smog posted:
De-rating of cables is a mixture of several factors: Whether it is installed underground, in conduit, surrounded by thermal insulation and bunching with other circuits. That picture is something I have been taught not to do, I would usually run 2 cables in a 25mm hole and then other circuits run in parallel in their own holes. That prevents 2 things; overheating and de-rating of the cables, and when running the cables they will tend to rub against the insulation of the other cables which could cause damage to the insulation of the cables.
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Apr 28, 2009 04:09
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Lucid Smog posted:Also here's a few more pictures of dubious work: Was working in my basement and saw a cut section of fabric insulated wire (like what you have in the first image). I tested it and sure enough, it was live. THAT got removed very quickly. Also bumping my question from a week ago: Fire Storm posted:Is there any code preventing me from getting a second power drop to my garage? My garage is about 100 feet from my house, and the back of the garage is less than 10 feet from the power pole with transformer on the back of my property. Running underground-grade 4/0 from my house to the garage is quite expensive and I would rather not do that. (Saying 4/0 because the charts I saw said that I need that thick of a cable for my distance to get any real power).
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Apr 28, 2009 04:22
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Fire Storm posted:God, I think they also wired my basement. You're talking about running a separate service. What's the rating on your house panel? The power company will be happy to do anything they can charge you for, so they'll say yes. You can probably get a 200A service there at your garage for your house and garage combined. Meter base into a 100A/200A circuit breaker enclosure, one of which goes to your house, the other into your garage. This will probably require the services of a professional to come out and put eyes on the place and tell you what you can or can't do.
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Apr 28, 2009 05:21
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:You're talking about running a separate service. What's the rating on your house panel? Currently the house is only 60a service (The city inspector saw the 60a main breaker and 40a going to the stove and said "Oh, 100a! That's code!" and I wish I was joking). I have all the stuff ready to convert the house to 200a (but I just haven't), and am prepared to put in a 120a service to the garage. I mean, if I have to have all the power delivered to the house then bring it back to the garage, I can do that, but it almost seems better to just have it go to the garage and then to the house, but that's just me being practical and trying to save copper, I guess.
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Apr 28, 2009 07:47
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Fire Storm posted:Yeah, a separate service. It just seems cheaper/easier than running from my house out to the garage (deep lot and the garage is not close to the house). Draw a picture of your lot, including your current service drop, and I can probably come up with something.
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Apr 28, 2009 12:19
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grover posted:No, that's completely N/A. Think about it. R will change if you've got sweaty hands, but it isn't going to change depending on which wire you grab. Double V, and you double I, too. The power through your body actually quadruples when you double the voltage. Yes, you are right. I was confused. I was stuck thinking of high voltage transmission lines. There there is an inverse relationship between current/voltage there thanks to the transformer. The point being that a constant power level is maintained but the current is decreased by many factors which mitigates line loss. Line loss being proportional to current^2. If you only change one variable by a factor you do increase total power dissipation by a factor of four. I can see why 220 might be a bit more dangerous. (of courses, their circuit breakers are probably 7.5/10 amps since they don't need to deliver any more power to the household circuits than we do)
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Apr 28, 2009 13:43
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Draw a picture of your lot, including your current service drop, and I can probably come up with something. Why draw when I can pull up the survey! .png) Click here for the full 550x1254 image. Red X are the transformer (Well, it's actually on the neighbors property behind me, but close enough) and the service drop.
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Apr 28, 2009 15:53
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Big Steveo posted:De-rating of cables is a mixture of several factors: Whether it is installed underground, in conduit, surrounded by thermal insulation and bunching with other circuits. NEC states you do not have to derate if you are running through a nipple which is less than 24" in length as long as you still meet required fill. The above picture does not meet 40% fill requirements for conduit, however I am not quite sure how romex is handled in residential installations. Either way it doesn't look like a good idea. Data cables also do not count as a current carrying conductor, and (theoretically) do not count towards fill calculations either.
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Apr 28, 2009 23:40
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Cheesemaster200 posted:NEC states you do not have to derate if you are running through a nipple which is less than 24" in length as long as you still meet required fill. I'm reading from the AS/NZS3008 (Australian/New Zealand Selection of Cable) I'm assuming that the yellow cable is a power cable There is 6 cables bunched together would require a derating factor of 0.57 x Current Carrying Capacity of the cable. So for a cable which has a C.C.C of 25A, you can only get approx 14A from that cable (25 x 0.57 = 14.25.) But the all depends on the length that the cable is bunched together, my rule book says that to avoid derating of the cable, bunching must not exceed half the length of the cable. For example; lets say each cable run is 30 metres. If all 6 of those cables were straight from a switchboard bunched like that for 20 metres and then branch out to different locations in the last 10m, since the bunching occurs for greater than half of the run, the appropriate derating factor occurs. If that yellow cable is a data cable. It should be at least 300mm (from memory) away from power cables. That is so data cables do not induce Voltage from the power
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Apr 29, 2009 03:44
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I have a few low voltage questions: For 14v AC @ 1amp - what size wire can I get away with for a run of 30' without a drop in power? I'm familiar with AWG, but my supplier uses a format of 24/0.2 , 7/0.2, 1/0.6 - as far as I can tell this translates to 24 strands at 0.2mm each. Is there a chart on how these compare with AWG figures?
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Apr 29, 2009 10:05
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How can I install an additional outlet in a finished house? Right now my computer room has one outlet with about a hundred things plugged into it and I'd like to add two more outlets and possibly put them on their own circuits. The walls in the house are sheetrock (I think), in case that matters... Also, where could I get information on those whole-house surge protection devices? Is it something I could install myself?
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Apr 29, 2009 12:51
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Big Steveo posted:I'm reading from the AS/NZS3008 (Australian/New Zealand Selection of Cable) The cables are like that for about 2" every 16" or so inches (every time it goes through a floor joist). The yellow cable is a 12AWG power cable while the white ones are 14AWG. They probably should be derated to some degree, but I think those cables are the least of the fire hazards in my house. I really need to go install AFCI circuit breakers all up in my panel because there is tons of old cloth jacketed cable in corrugated metal conduit (does this conduit act as the ground? There are only two cables in these conduits I've seen but all the handy boxes have been metal so I'm guessing/hoping there is a real ground).
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Apr 29, 2009 12:55
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Vinlaen posted:How can I install an additional outlet in a finished house? Installing additional outlets to an existing room can be done, how easy it will be depends on your home's construction. What kind of unfinished spaces does this room have nearby (basement, attic, utility room) where it would be easy to run wires? Is the wall that you want to put the outlets in filled with insulation?
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Apr 29, 2009 15:25
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I have access to the basement underneath the room I want to add outlets and I've already run some cat 5 wires through the floor so that shouldn't be a problem. I also don't think there is insulation in the wall. However, don't outlet boxes need to be attached to a stud or something like that? If so, how do you attach the box because you will only have a little hole exposed for the outlet itself, right? (plus the cover of course)
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Apr 29, 2009 17:21
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Vinlaen posted:I have access to the basement underneath the room I want to add outlets and I've already run some cat 5 wires through the floor so that shouldn't be a problem. Nope, use old work boxes.
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Apr 29, 2009 17:39
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Vinlaen posted:However, don't outlet boxes need to be attached to a stud or something like that? If so, how do you attach the box because you will only have a little hole exposed for the outlet itself, right? (plus the cover of course) Go to your local hardware store and ask them for an "old construction" or "existing construction" receptacle box. These have little wings attached with screws that flip out and clamp the box to the wall from the back. All you have to do is cut the appropriate hole, push the box through, tighten the bolts attached to the wings, and you're good to go. After fishing the wire through the box, of course. gently caress, beaten stealie72 fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Apr 29, 2009 |
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Apr 29, 2009 17:44
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jackyl posted:Nope, use old work boxes.
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Apr 29, 2009 18:08
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Dear Goons, Please help me not burn my (rented) house down and/or kill myself. The place I'm living was built in 195X and has the original space-age avocado green oven and separate built in electric range next to it in the counter (super awesome push button heat controls too). Long story short, one of the little 6 inch coils is broken/burned through and I'd like to replace it. Thing is, the obsolete ones in the stove have two wires going into one end of the coil and one coming out the other side (or reversed, not sure which way the current is going).  This certainly won't work with the 2 plug versions at the local home depot, so I need to find a replacement that will. I see 3 wire elements online but some are 220v, and some are 240v. Can anyone tell me which I need and if it makes a difference? Here's a closeup of the the wires if it matters.  Two ends are joined together on the black wire, and the other ends are attached to red, and what looks like white with a lot of red rubbed off on it. All of this is crap is then arranged inside a little ceramic sandwich like so.  Some quick searching leads me to eBay and a few online stores. Here's what I'm thinking about installing. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390046993693 Any thoughts?
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Apr 29, 2009 18:27
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chryst posted:Every time I've tried to install an old-work box, the drywall wouldn't hold it, and just crumbled around the clamps. That link has some tips that might help next time though, so thanks for it. If you have particularly old / crumbly drywall, you can use a could of 1/4" or 1/2" inch strips of plywood cut about 8 inches long and maybe an inch wide. Put them horizontally at the top and bottom of your cutout and secure them to the drywall with drywall screws. This will allow the clamps to go against that plywood instead of the drywall - it will require some extremely easy mudding and sanding to cover the screws of course. Let me know if I didn't describe that very well and I'll try an MS Paint or something of what I mean.
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Apr 29, 2009 19:14
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Vinlaen posted:I have access to the basement underneath the room I want to add outlets and I've already run some cat 5 wires through the floor so that shouldn't be a problem. Like several people recommended, use those old work boxes. They have lips on the front and wings in the back that clamp onto the wall when screwed down. First, measure how far off your outlets are from the floor so the new ones will match. Old work boxes need larger drywall hole sizes than your existing "new" work boxes however. Since you're matching existing outlets however, you can cheat a little. Measure from the floor to the central screw of an outlet, then center your new box on that measurement. Second, get a stud finder and go to where you want to put an outlet. Find out where your studs are, find the gap in between and make your hole. Make your hole as small as possible while still allowing the wings to flip out in the back. If you make it too large, the box might not stay in properly and you might need to patch that hole and try again. Don't put in the box yet! Third, you need to drill the hole. There's 2 ways to do this. The easy way is they make long drill bits with flexible shafts that you stick into the hole you just made at a downward angle. Drill down thru the floor. Leave the drill bit poking out, it will be easier to find your hole in the basement this way. The hard way is to use a regular drill bit and drill up from the basement into the wall cavity. You'll need to do a shitload of measuring to pull this one off and can very easily gently caress up and drill into your living space and not inside the wall, but it might be possible. If this is an exterior wall, you might have some trouble fitting your drill and bit in the gap between the floor and the foundation wall. Keep a lookout for a line of nails where the bottom board for that wall was nailed into the floor. Fourth, run your romex from the basement up that drill hole and out wall hole. This is why you don't put the box in yet: so you can reach your hand in the hole and find the cable. Feed the romex into the hole on the box, then mount the box in the hole. From here out, it's like hooking up any other outlet. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Apr 29, 2009 |
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Apr 29, 2009 20:27
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jackyl posted:If you have particularly old / crumbly drywall, you can use a could of 1/4" or 1/2" inch strips of plywood cut about 8 inches long and maybe an inch wide. Put them horizontally at the top and bottom of your cutout and secure them to the drywall with drywall screws. This will allow the clamps to go against that plywood instead of the drywall - it will require some extremely easy mudding and sanding to cover the screws of course. I've found that a couple coats of paint on the cut edge of the drywall is enough to solidify it for this kind of work.
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Apr 29, 2009 22:14
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jackyl posted:If you have particularly old / crumbly drywall, you can use a could of 1/4" or 1/2" inch strips of plywood cut about 8 inches long and maybe an inch wide. Put them horizontally at the top and bottom of your cutout and secure them to the drywall with drywall screws. This will allow the clamps to go against that plywood instead of the drywall - it will require some extremely easy mudding and sanding to cover the screws of course. 
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Apr 30, 2009 15:38
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Hoping to get this in before I lose power: I have 2 battery backups on 2 separate circuits and they keep cycling. One is a new battery backup, one is an older one, but they are both cycling at the same time. I tried plugging them into other circuits and they keep cycling like this. Not seeing any flickering anywhere else in the house, voltmeter doesn't catch any changes other than the power going from 118.7v to 119.5v and it's just as stable at the meter. Seems to cycle more when it's windy, but this has JUST started within the past 36 hours. No tree branches are touching my wires, transformer on the pole looks clear, run from the pole to the house doesn't appear to be swaying at all. Any suggestions? EDIT: Power is relatively stable for a few minutes, and the control panel software for my UPS isn't showing any power outage, under voltage or over voltage, but it is cycling. Fire Storm fucked around with this message at 21:53 on May 1, 2009 |
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May 1, 2009 21:43
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How can I trace circuits without having them be live? All of the old wiring in my house is in some sort of corrugated metal shroud (looks like AC/MC) and the actual wiring is two-wire cloth (well, looks like cloth) insulated. I have a conctactless voltage probe but it doesn't work through the metal shroud. I am not interested in getting electrocuted, but I can't think of any other ways to figure out which run goes to which outlet/switch and where the power is coming from. I was planning on opening up the junction boxes in my basement and probing the wires with the contactless voltage probe while having my wife flip some switches to try and figure it out. Later work will probably see me turning off the breaker and actually disconnecting some of the junctions so I can see which direction the circuit is going. Safer/better options would be appreciated.
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May 2, 2009 14:12
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Fire Storm posted:Hoping to get this in before I lose power: If you get a higher-end UPS, and it will filter better, and will be less sensitive. For instance, during thunderstorms, my APC Back Ups 350 is constantly cycling on and off no apparent reason (lights are on) and quickly drains its battery for, while my APC Smart UPS rides through it- it logs the disruption, but doesn't hit the battery so hard or so long. grover fucked around with this message at 14:49 on May 2, 2009 |
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May 2, 2009 14:34
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Fiesta Nacho Plate posted:Dear Goons, The ebay one you linked to will probably work just fine, if it fits. The element is resistive, so you can connect one end of each coil to the common black wire. Make sure you mark which red wire is which so you can stay consistent there, too. grover fucked around with this message at 14:46 on May 2, 2009 |
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May 2, 2009 14:37
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Lucid Smog posted:How can I trace circuits without having them be live? Circuit tracer. They sell them pretty much anywhere you can buy electrical tools. They can be a little tricky to use, but are well worth it even if you only use it once to map out your whole house. While you're at it, get a 2-prong plug to socket base converter (looks like a light bulb base with an outlet in it). That way, you can plug the tracer into your lights to trace them as well. Lights and outlets may be on radically different and nonlogical circuits.
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May 4, 2009 16:31
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/categories/test-instruments/electrical-power-testing/circuit-tracers
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May 4, 2009 18:18
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chryst posted:These seem to trace from an outlet to the breaker. Is there something like this that'll trace the wires inside the walls, so I don't have to tear out drywall to figure out where each branch ends up going when I want to run a new 3-conductor wire? Short answer is: not cheaply. Your eyes and common sense are the best bet. If two outlets are on the same wall, the cable probably doesn't go into the attic to get between them. Just abandon the cable in the wall; it's not going to hurt anything. It's secured to the framing anyway, so you probably won't be able to use it to pull new wire in.
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May 4, 2009 19:20
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