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Agreed posted:Hence hand-level - I meant that to imply you'd want to have it at hand, rather than at foot, for exactly that reason. There was quite a bit of discussion over using small mixers to accomplish parallel signal paths at TGP and HC last year, didn't really catch on but it's still a neat idea. Ah, I was wondering what you meant by "hand level"  Well, it certainly is a neat idea, but small mixers are still mixers and it's another bulky thing to lug around with you. Plus the reason guitar effects come in pedals is that your hands are occupied while playing. It would be all kinds of cool to have some dude just pressing pedals and adjusting your guitar signal while you're playing. Didn't The Mars Volta do something like that?
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Dec 14, 2009 00:39
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sleep posted:It would be all kinds of cool to have some dude just pressing pedals and adjusting your guitar signal while you're playing. Didn't The Mars Volta do something like that? They used to, but he's dead now. Having a band member whose sole job is to work the pedals seems like a good idea in theory but few account for the risks involved. But seriously, I realize I wouldn't be able to tweak the mix mid-playing but if I want a cleaner tone I'll just switch the fuzz off, and if I want to go dirtier I'll just switch on an overdrive placed after the mixer.
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Dec 14, 2009 03:04
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Way Past Cool! posted:They used to, but he's dead now. Having a band member whose sole job is to work the pedals seems like a good idea in theory but few account for the risks involved. It is nice. I built a simple pedal for doing just that and it sounds great
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Dec 14, 2009 03:56
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I stole a mate's Ibanez MS10 "metal charger" and played around with it a bit. First thing that hits me is that there's some pretty awesome dialing options on this thing. From hot distortion to an almost fuzz like low end distortion. Anyone used one of these before? I haven't had a chance to check it out with my setup yet but I'm pretty keen. I'd like to know more about it from one of you gear head types though. Another thing, the pedal seems to be slightly faulty. Pressing it down won't turn it on a lot of the time, it seems to activate for a split second then turn off again. If you slam down on it hard enough it will turn on eventually, so I assume there's something wrong with the switch. This sort of thing an easy fix? As far as I know this pedal is old as hell.
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Dec 14, 2009 13:36
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cat doter posted:Another thing, the pedal seems to be slightly faulty. Pressing it down won't turn it on a lot of the time, it seems to activate for a split second then turn off again. If you slam down on it hard enough it will turn on eventually, so I assume there's something wrong with the switch. This sort of thing an easy fix? As far as I know this pedal is old as hell. If the switch is faulty, it should be pretty easy to change it. However, finding a compatible switch may be rather difficult.
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Dec 14, 2009 13:48
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stairway to hippo posted:If the switch is faulty, it should be pretty easy to change it. However, finding a compatible switch may be rather difficult. It's likely something like this, and if so, very easy to change.
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Dec 14, 2009 17:47
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What level should the input volume be on the Boss Space Echo? I usually leave it at 1:00 or until the clip light turns on, but I've seen pictures of it maxed.
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Dec 14, 2009 17:56
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your best bet, especially with ADCs, is to set the gain as high as you can until you get too much clipping. if the light flashes a tiny bit with your guitar vol at ten and you hit a big chord, that should be fine
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Dec 14, 2009 18:13
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Gorilla Salsa posted:It's likely something like this, and if so, very easy to change. Yeah, it's definitely something like that. But it may be hard to find a switch that has the right dimension and the right action. A poorly fitted switch will be pretty unreliable too, in a pedal like that. Considering they cost next to nothing though, it might be worth it to try out a few different ones to find one that fits.
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Dec 14, 2009 19:46
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I've been toying around with the pedals I use live for the past year or so, and am still in a state of flux. I play with an Ampeg V4 running at 8 ohms into a 4x12 Lopoline cabinet with 4 x 30 watt speakers ( I think ) wired at 8 ohms. Here's some boxes I usually use: Black, Blue or Tan versions of Real Tube stompboxes. The tube used (AX7/AU7/AY7) an really makes the most difference, I usually just try to find a nice open spot for the EQ. When it sounds right, it gets nice overdrive, some compression. Makes for good feedback initiation. Can get lost in the mix. with that I usually use one of two combo boost fuzz boxes. -- A Boss FZ-2 for mean power chords and dissonance or -- Roland Bee-Ba Clone + boost. Like a Superfuzz or Fender Blender. I don't use the filtered mode just the distortion rolled back, like a calmer Big Muff. get lost in the mix. I'm playing into a v4 . I shouldn't get drowned out. My drummer is loving loud and getting a louder kit soon. what the gently caress? My bass player playing through my fender bassman - > acoustic 4x12 I got for 50$ easily knocks me out in the frequencies of our practice space (I suspect this is the main issue), but I don't think I'm drowned out live? It's kinda hard to gauge, I usually get drunk. What's my problem? glennnyc fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Dec 16, 2009 |
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Dec 16, 2009 00:51
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Is there a pedal out there somewhere that can make my Strat sound like a Sitar?
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Dec 24, 2009 21:16
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e: double post
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Dec 24, 2009 21:17
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Thoogsby posted:Is there a pedal out there somewhere that can make my Strat sound like a Sitar? Yes actually. http://www.effectsdatabase.com/type/sitarsim I don't really know anything about them other than their existence but the Daneloctro Sitar Swami seems to be the only one on ebay. Like I said though I have no idea how they actually sound. By the way, apparently every single Behringer pedal is a clone (usually based on Boss) and I was wondering how they compare to the pedals they're copying. I know they're made of cheaper components/ housed in plastic but for more expensive and discontinued Boss pedals it seems like a good alternative. Does anybody know how they compare soundwise?
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Dec 24, 2009 21:50
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The closest I've ever come to making a guitar sound like a sitar without actually using synthesis is this right here: Amplitube Fender's '63 Reverb overdriving on its own, dialed in for a heavy dwell, bright, splashy reverb, pushing hard into a Champ 600 sim just lightly crunching. Makes the reverb trails overdrive slightly, which lends to the sense of resonance that the clip has. The guitar is a strat. But a lot of the "hey that kind of sounds sitar-ish" comes from playing a non-traditional scale and throwing in some microtonal bends. The Roland VG-99, when interfacing with a guitar that has one of their good hex pickups, can really make your guitar sound like a sitar without workarounds. But you're looking at $1300 or so minimum to invest in that setup if you buy new. Less used. Way Past Cool! posted:By the way, apparently every single Behringer pedal is a clone (usually based on Boss) and I was wondering how they compare to the pedals they're copying. I know they're made of cheaper components/ housed in plastic but for more expensive and discontinued Boss pedals it seems like a good alternative. Does anybody know how they compare soundwise? They range in quality, but they're pretty damned good in general as far as the sound goes. Many feature plastic cases but plastic is strong, I'd imagine the inexpensive switches will fail long before the plastic cases break. They tend to have plastic-shaft potentiometers, which means they have a lot of wiggle and that is disconcerting and definitely presents some durability concerns if you don't have a lot of control over where they're at. But the circuits in them are often pretty darned good. I think the Behringer Ultra Metal (UM-300, I think, it's hot pink) sounds much better than the Boss Metalzone, for example. If you have any specific questions, I've tried quite a few of them out and I have a lot of experience with pedals so I've probably at least plugged in once or twice to most of the pedals they're emulating. I'll be happy to help if I've had first-hand experience with the ones you're curious abut. Agreed fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Dec 24, 2009 |
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Dec 24, 2009 22:06
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Where would be the best place to put my noise suppressor in my effects chain? I've got a Boss MD-2 (Mega Distortion) with a Blues Driver and a TS-9 Tube Screamer. I've taken the chorus pedal and the DD6 delay pedal out for now (although I'd like to work them back in) but I still seem to get unwanted squeals. Right now it's set like this: Input -> Tuner -> MD-2 -> Blues Driver -> Noise Suppressor -> TS-9 -> Output. I've tried it in several places to no avail. Advice? Also, where to put the DD6 and chorus box would be cool.
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Dec 25, 2009 00:47
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Experiment, experiment! I think the noise suppressor should be after all the dirt pedals to reduce their hum, and after the chorus if its a noisy one. I really like a lot of modulation fx after delay so the repeats change
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Dec 25, 2009 01:18
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Way Past Cool! posted:Yes actually. http://www.effectsdatabase.com/type/sitarsim As for Behringer effects, I've owned a couple, and I've never had any trouble with them. The one I've used the most is a clone of the discontinued Boss PN-2 Tremolo Panner. The original is kinda hard to find (at least for a reasonable price), and the Behringer clone has served me very well. No noise problems or anything.
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Dec 26, 2009 14:49
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Agreed posted:sitar stuff  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68y1gjEHiBM
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Dec 26, 2009 15:47
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Gorilla Salsa posted:Yes, but can your precious plugins make your guitar sound like a violin? Wow. I was expecting something that just muted the initial pick attack, but that's actually really convincing. And I was getting ready to be all snarky with a comment like "that's what the volume knob is for" too.
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Dec 27, 2009 02:18
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Gorilla Salsa posted:Yes, but can your precious plugins make your guitar sound like a violin? Pathetic. That sounds nothing like a violin. That sounds like a cello.
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Dec 27, 2009 02:35
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Saw this today on a gadget blog and thought it was pretty rad: http://sanyo.com/news/2009/12/25-1.html  It's a rechargeable 9v power source made specifically for effects pedals, mini recorders, etc. Looks like you can expect to get about 20 hours of play time with a couple of pedals, and recharge time is about 3.5 hours. The Sanyo Eneloop batteries are awesome, and I'm all about something that lets me disconnect a pedalboard from the wall. Not sure what kind of runtime you can expect when powering a huge board, but these days I'm traveling fairly light anyway.
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Dec 28, 2009 17:22
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That's pretty neat. With a max output of 2000 mA, you can probably even daisy chain off it.
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Dec 28, 2009 17:40
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I got an Eventide TimeFactor for xmas and I'm futzing around with trying to make it and my dual recto play nice. I'm either encountering a volume drop (which is not the TF doing it, as I tested it in front of the amp) or the actual effect sound is very quiet and tinny (lacking bass). I've got it in the recto's (parallel wired) FX loop and I have the in/out on the TF both set to "Line" level. I've tried the KILLDRY option (which kills the dry part of the wet/dry knob on the TF) and set the mix on the recto to different levels (with and without the killdry) and I get a quiet effect no matter what. I've tried changing the in/out levels on the TF to no avail. I've messed with the send volume and return mix on the recto (the send unfortunately ramps the ENTIRE amp volume up; I'd prefer to not have to do this so I can have the same levels whether the FX loop is on or not) with no luck. Anyone have any ideas? I'm using 10ft shielded instrument cables to connect the TF to the FX loop. I'm assuming I don't need speaker cables since it hasn't hit the power amp section yet. Should I try shorter cables? Give up and put it in front of the amp?
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Jan 2, 2010 18:52
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Raze posted:I got an Eventide TimeFactor for xmas and I'm futzing around with trying to make it and my dual recto play nice. I'm either encountering a volume drop (which is not the TF doing it, as I tested it in front of the amp) or the actual effect sound is very quiet and tinny (lacking bass). I've got it in the recto's (parallel wired) FX loop and I have the in/out on the TF both set to "Line" level. I've tried the KILLDRY option (which kills the dry part of the wet/dry knob on the TF) and set the mix on the recto to different levels (with and without the killdry) and I get a quiet effect no matter what. I've tried changing the in/out levels on the TF to no avail. I've messed with the send volume and return mix on the recto (the send unfortunately ramps the ENTIRE amp volume up; I'd prefer to not have to do this so I can have the same levels whether the FX loop is on or not) with no luck. Anyone have any ideas? I'm using 10ft shielded instrument cables to connect the TF to the FX loop. I'm assuming I don't need speaker cables since it hasn't hit the power amp section yet. Should I try shorter cables? Give up and put it in front of the amp? Try shorter cables. Do you have a massive pedal board and like a 30ft guitar cable? Rkelly fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Jan 4, 2010 |
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Jan 2, 2010 21:02
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While I love the tremendous flexibility/low cost/convenience of Guitar Rig for building and tweaking effects chains, lately I've been creating effects at an even more fine-grained level using Native Instruments Reaktor with this set of tutorials as a guide. Similar to building an effects chain in software using Guitar Rig versus a pile of hardware pedals, Reaktor lets you build a stompbox circuit by circuit without needing any physical components whatsoever (Max/MSP should also be good for this but I don't have any experience with it). The resulting effect can then be used on any source in your DAW, it's cool hearing how different an effect you've built sounds on a guitar versus vocals or some sampled instruments. Highly recommended for tweak freaks, especially those of you who don't like the smell of solder.
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Jan 4, 2010 15:11
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Mokracy posted:Where would be the best place to put my noise suppressor in my effects chain? I've got a Boss MD-2 (Mega Distortion) with a Blues Driver and a TS-9 Tube Screamer. I've taken the chorus pedal and the DD6 delay pedal out for now (although I'd like to work them back in) but I still seem to get unwanted squeals. Right now it's set like this: You usually want to put the noise suppressor at the end of the chain so it stop all your noise, although tube screamers aren't noisy. It's probably got to do with having three un-bypassed overdrives one right after the other. If you're running any two of those at the same time you're going to get huge, chunky distortion. If you're only running one overdrive at a time, or even the Blues + TS, you shouldn't be experiencing a lot of dead air noise. If you leave the Blues Drive on all the time, try putting it before the MD. If the MD produces noise, it'll be amplified by an "always on" boost. Between the TS and the MD, you've probably got a lot of compression going on, which means you have to boost your pedal volume, and in turn, the pedal noise. You might also try the Blues Driver at the very end of the chain. What I've found is that a little bit of clean gain can open that sound back up, so you might be able to run those pedals at cooler settings and keep big tone while reducing noise. And don't believe that it's only the pedal board, either. If you're having a trouble getting the pedals to sound right, take a look at your amp's settings. The gain on your amp interacts with the input signal and can go further to "decompress" a heavily dirtied guitar. You might also consider putting some of those on a separate loop in your pedal chain so you can basically bypass noisy pedals through creative cabling. Keeley Makes a bypass loop switch, and I'm sure lots of others do, too. With the chorus you can put it in the chain or in the effects loop. If you have a second amplifier and your chorus has a both wet and dry outs, and if you don't mind hauling extra gear, you can run the wet out from your chain to the second amp and get real chorus phasing between the two speakers. CalvinDooglas fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Jan 4, 2010 |
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Jan 4, 2010 18:10
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What's the difference between a "chain" and an "effects loop"?
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Jan 6, 2010 16:11
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I think "chain" just refers to a series of effects that are placed one after the other, where effects loop refers specifically to a series of effects placed in the effects loop of an amplifier (after the preamp, before the poweramp).
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Jan 6, 2010 16:35
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bisticles posted:I think "chain" just refers to a series of effects that are placed one after the other, where effects loop refers specifically to a series of effects placed in the effects loop of an amplifier (after the preamp, before the poweramp). Yeah, but I think more often than not, the "chain" is associated to something in your signal path from your instrument to your amp.
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Jan 6, 2010 16:44
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Scarf posted:Yeah, but I think more often than not, the "chain" is associated to something in your signal path from your instrument to your amp. Indeed, but I want to clarify what I said earlier with "loop in the effects chain". I'm talking about using something like this looper pedal to run a parallel loop within the pedal chain, still all between the guitar and amp. code:CalvinDooglas fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Jan 6, 2010 |
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Jan 6, 2010 19:17
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$85 for a bypass box ? Man, I wish I was Robert Keeley
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Jan 7, 2010 10:46
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mrbradlymrmartin posted:$85 for a bypass box ? If you think that's rich, try their $290 A/B switcher. Absurd is the only appropriate word.
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Jan 7, 2010 12:11
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Gorilla Salsa posted:If you think that's rich, try their $290 A/B switcher. b-b-but MY TONE!
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Jan 7, 2010 13:08
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It's crap like that that leads to people asking me to build them a clean boost with true bypass in it. Why on earth >__> I don't know, I guess I'd feel guilty taking idiots money for that stuff? Clearly I need more sex drugs and rocknroll to kill my conscience before I start my boutique gear company 
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Jan 7, 2010 13:25
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Gorilla Salsa posted:If you think that's rich, try their $290 A/B switcher. Tell me about it. I have a dual amp set up and use a tuner for the switch. I have to tune with sound on, but having a dedicated chorus amp sounds great.
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Jan 7, 2010 16:02
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The thing is, for as many people seemingly dedicated to ripping off musicians, there are just as many people doing right by them. Loop-master sells TBP loop boxes for a little over half what Keeley sells them for, and other brands like Loooper and RoadRageProGear do even better. I'm pretty sure GGG sells a TBP loop kit as well. poo poo, I've made a TBP loop box and an A/B switcher just based on BeavisAudio's diagrams and parts from PedalPartsPlus. The other guys are just assholes.
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Jan 9, 2010 14:34
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I got a question now. Yesterday I decided to take some initiative and fix the old, broken pedals that I didn't lose last month. I didn't quite have the tools to remove the dirty pot from my Crybaby Classic, but was able to scrape some gunk off the circuitboard of my FatBoost and put it in my chain. I also used a student aid refund to buy an MXR Carbon Copy, which sounds a lot nicer than the Ibanez I lost. So now I have three boost/OD stages and I'm not sure what the best order is. Tuner MXR Distortion III modded to overdrive Voodoo labs Sparkle drive for light dirt FullTone FatBoost with low gain Delay I don't really get noise unless all three are on, and the FatBoost is the only one I'm likely to keep "always on".
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Jan 9, 2010 16:31
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The Carbon Copy was a great choice. I really love mine, imo it's the perfect simple analog delay. I would put the dirt pedals so they go fatboost -> sparkledrive -> dist III. I find when I mix dirt pedals I usually like it best with the lower gain stages first and the higher gain stages down the chain. Really though you've got to experiment with combining them in different orders and see who likes having their input pushed harder and who doesn't. I've found certain pedals get way better when fed a hotter and/or already-distorted signals, but other pedals don't take so kindly to it.
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Jan 10, 2010 00:57
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Col.Kiwi posted:The Carbon Copy was a great choice. I really love mine, imo it's the perfect simple analog delay. I actually like to keep the Sparkle after the Dist III, but only because it has the unusual clean/OD blend knob. Being able to blend the boosted and unboosted signal allows for some pretty effective tone shaping, which I didn't get with it before the Dist III. I'm gonna try the fatboost in front some more, though, because I definitely hear how the distortion might benefit from a slightly hotter signal going in. I got two sets tonight, so maybe I'll get a chance to try it both ways. With only 4 pedals right now, it shouldn't be too hard for me to try all the different combinations this week. Thanks!
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Jan 10, 2010 01:28
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Just looking for a new perspective on my effects chain. EHX Big Muff Pi EHX English Muffin EHX Micro Synth Seymour Duncan Shape Shifter (tremolo) Voodoo Labs Tremolo Morley Bad Horsie Wah TC Electronics Nova Delay Ernie Ball Volume Pedal Jr I plan on adding an Eventide Pitch Factor in there at some point, and I also have an Alesis Quadraverb GT in my effects loop (mainly for weird ambient effects, not for the preamp) and probably a chrous and flanger at some point. Any thoughts on the order of all this? I've been experimenting with things but would like to get a fresh perspective. Traditionally I've been a guitar -> wah -> amp kind of guy, but my influences have been greatly broadened in recent years. This will be going into a variety of amps, mainly Orange, Marshall and a 5150 2x12 combo.
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Jan 15, 2010 19:49
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