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With the engine in place, once you start it the truck counts as technically alive again.
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Dec 29, 2009 01:46
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I don't know if it's been said before, but a project like this is so much more meaningful than the mega-dollar restorations that get sold at Mecum or Barret Jackson. I'm excited for pictures and videos of the engine startup! (or destruction, hopefully not  )
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Dec 29, 2009 02:05
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Gorilla Salad posted:With the engine in place, once you start it the truck counts as technically alive again. I hope to see video of it moving under its own power before the end of the year.
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Dec 29, 2009 02:32
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Bucephalus posted:I hope to see video of it moving under its own power before the end of the year. End of 2009 or 2010? Because there's no transmission man. 2009 looks like a pretty tall order, despite how much Mooecow gets done every day.
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Dec 29, 2009 04:22
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Slung Blade posted:End of 2009 or 2010? That huge fan on the front will propel it!
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Dec 29, 2009 06:58
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Oh c'mon, flywheel/clutch assembly/bellhousing/tranny/driveshaft only takes a couple hours. (You're right, of course. Mid-January maybe?)
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Dec 29, 2009 12:03
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I thought this project would never get off the ground but you have been doing great work. You should be very proud of yourself. Good luck with the rest of the work!
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Dec 29, 2009 17:07
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gently caress man your truck is in nicer condition now than my wife's beater 2002 Mazda Protege.
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Dec 29, 2009 18:52
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On a whim I decided to check the cold compression of the cylinders. In a word: gently caress. 1: 55 psi 2: 110 3: 110 4: 130 5: 0 6: 40 Goddammit
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Dec 29, 2009 20:14
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Wow, thats hosed. Its possible its just a few stuck rings. But then, you've been soaking it in MMO or something, right?
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Dec 29, 2009 20:19
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Guaranteed to run well 
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Dec 29, 2009 20:20
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Mooecow posted:On a whim I decided to check the cold compression of the cylinders. In a word: gently caress. Well that sucks. Can you just hone and re-ring with some new pistons maybe? Hopefully you're not getting into head work. Do you think you would take on engine work or leave that to the people with all the expensive tools?
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Dec 29, 2009 21:09
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I wouldn't write it off yet as needing a ring job, a zero compression test result like that could just as easily be a screwed up valve - one that isn't closing all the way, for example. Do the numbers change significantly if you squirt some oil in each cylinder before you re-run the test?
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Dec 29, 2009 21:32
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Well, I just attempted a redneck leak down test and from what I can tell, the valves might be to blame. On the #4 exhaust valve (the one that was sticking) when I stick the blow gun into the spark plug hole I can feel air coming out the exhaust manifold. I didn't feel any air coming out the carb or the oil dipstick tube. I let MMO sit in the cylinders for a few days before attempting to move the engine and a few days after it moved. It seems to move freely. I think I'll grab a rubber stopper that fits into the spark plug hole and drill a hole in the center for the blow gun so only a little air leaks out that way. If it is indeed the head, that would obviously need to be done by a machine shop. Gulp. Edit: I squirted oil (SAE 30) into the cylinders with poo poo/no compression and it didn't change. Mooecow fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Dec 30, 2009 |
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Dec 29, 2009 21:34
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If oil didn't change the results, then either it's valves, or the rings are so far beyond bad that there's probably a hole in the block  The valves could just be a matter of being misadjusted, you might not need to actually deal with a machine shop. Could just be gummed up too.
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Dec 29, 2009 21:44
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IOwnCalculus posted:If oil didn't change the results, then either it's valves, or the rings are so far beyond bad that there's probably a hole in the block I readjusted the valves and a couple cylinders picked up a couple of PSI, but within the margin of error of the gauge. Cylinder #5 still showed 0 no matter what I did. Either way I am going to end up pulling the head. Given the fact the engine sat for a while, they could very easily be gummed up. From what I've been reading, it isn't unheard of for people to start a 216/235/261 after winter storage and bend a few push rods due to stuck valves.
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Dec 29, 2009 21:48
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Wonky compression on a motor that sat really isnt a big issue. Its to be expected. If a ring has grabbed its going to definetly have isues. Nothing that running it wont fix. Rip the head off, Pop the valves out and wirebrush them clean, Decoke the head , Chuck it together and start the thing. If you really get keen lap the valves. If it has issues after a few hours then start worrying.
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Dec 30, 2009 00:40
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Pulling the head's not so bad, it's great experience & relatively cheap. Your biggest problem is securing it to something well enough to get good torque loads on the head bolts. Seconding the zero compression = valves; even crappy rings will read & a wet-dry compression test is a dramatic indicator of rings. For what it's worth, I have two cylinders reading under 100-lbs with the other six reading over 190-210 on my 389 & it runs well enough for me to put off rebuilding it for the past five years. Pulling the head will quiet the large bag of nagging questions about the overall health of your block. I would also pull & lap the valves, it'll never be easier & you can practice setting your own hands on fire Your effort & progress are an inspiration. Truck looks fabulous. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Dec 30, 2009 |
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Dec 30, 2009 01:32
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Mooecow posted:I readjusted the valves and a couple cylinders picked up a couple of PSI, but within the margin of error of the gauge. Cylinder #5 still showed 0 no matter what I did. Either way I am going to end up pulling the head. after your progress so far, pulling the head is an easy job! On a nice simple engine like this it doesnt take long to do. Especially when the engine is easily removable and you have no front bodywork getting in your way. Atleast you will then know how healthy your engine is.
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Dec 30, 2009 13:25
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Alright, I am about to go out and poll the head. What should I spray on the head to soften up/remove the varnish/carbon/gunk that will undoubtedly be built up under there? I already have a can of Seafoam, but is there anything else that will work better? Edit: Just completed a redneck leakdown on the rest of the cylinders. There is leaking from: #1 Intake #5 Exhaust #6 Intake Which matches the poor compression. Head is coming off now. Yay. Mooecow fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Dec 30, 2009 |
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Dec 30, 2009 17:11
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Here is what I found: I'm no expert, but I don't like the look of things in there                 
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Dec 30, 2009 19:45
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Maybe I'm being optimistic but the rust in the bores looks superficial. Head looks filthy but nothing worse than that. When I tore the top end off of my 350, a 3M coated wire wheel in a drill made short work of the deposits on top of the pistons. That and oven cleaner / whatever other degreasers you can get your hands on.
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Dec 30, 2009 19:49
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Yeah I've pulled apart running engines in worse condition than that (Granted, it was a VW aircooled and it was only barely running ...).
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Dec 30, 2009 20:34
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Most of what looks bad in there is really just carbon build-up. Nothing really to worry about. See if the rust can't be cleaned up with some bon-ami and a rough sponge. Thing is, I didn't see anything that said 0 PSI compression to me. Which shots are of cylinder 5?
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Dec 30, 2009 20:38
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trouser chili posted:Most of what looks bad in there is really just carbon build-up. Nothing really to worry about. See if the rust can't be cleaned up with some bon-ami and a rough sponge. Thing is, I didn't see anything that said 0 PSI compression to me. Which shots are of cylinder 5? Here are some pics of cylinder 5 and the cylinder 5 valves.       (Cylinder 5 is on the left, exhaust on the bottom) You can see that it is definitely not completely closed. All the other exhaust valves have a puddle of seafoam in front of them, the seamfoam just drains through that one.
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Dec 30, 2009 20:57
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Those cylinders look perfectly fine. The head is filthy, I'd take it to a machine shop and have it rebuilt for unleaded fuel, that'll take care of any issues there. Meanwhile, flip that engine over, pull the oil pan and plastigage your bearings. It's cheap and you may as well find out what shape they're in. It's not a bad idea to replace your main seals while you're at it. The carbon deposits on the pistons can be removed with a wire wheel. That engine looks like it was running before it was removed and allowed to sit. A bit of cleaning up, a bit of paint to make it purdy, and you should be all set to go.
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Dec 31, 2009 01:56
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Appears we were running a bit rich for a while, there. Other than that, it looks great. Given the carbon on the pistons, you may well have nice big balls of coal on some of your valve stems, which may explain why they're not closing all of the way. Take a peek &/or reach into the intake & exhaust ports & see if you can see the valve stems. Seconding that that motor was running not that long ago. Cylinders look great. Remove, clean, lap & reinstall the valves, replace the stem seals; check for worn, collapsed or broken return springs; degrease anything else, button it up & away you go. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Dec 31, 2009 |
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Dec 31, 2009 04:44
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Definitely good news, it would appear. Head to a machine shop and some good elbow grease on the block, and you should have a perfectly healthy engine, judging by pictures on the internet. 
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Dec 31, 2009 05:32
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I have been using a nylon brush to clean up the carbon and the two intake valves are moving freely now and sealing well. The #5 exhaust, however, is being a pain. It refuses to move freely and stays stuck open. No matter how I tap on it, it won't close, so that explains the 0 PSI. So I guess that means I get to pull the valves and give them all a really good cleaning. All I need is a valve spring compressor and new valve stem seals,right?
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Dec 31, 2009 18:51
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You may also want to consider replacing the valve guides while it's apart.
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Dec 31, 2009 19:01
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Your doing a great job mooecow! I'm loving this thread. I'd love to come check out your truck sometime next summer when I get back to CT. I promise I'm not (that) crazy. I'm also working on an old truck, a 56 IH and your making me look like a huge slacker since mine still isn't running. Your welcome to come see my trucks too, I'm just learning about them and I could talk about them all day. I second getting the head rebuilt with new valve guides and hardened valve seats for unleaded. I'm going to end up doing it for mine. That way of the head is warped it can be planed and you wont have to worry about head gasket problems later on.
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Jan 1, 2010 03:41
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As an autobody tech who thought you were crazy for even starting this project and checking back on your progress now, it's a shame you weren't by me. I'd have painted your truck for free minus paint expense as a salute to a job well undertaken.
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Jan 1, 2010 04:00
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Mooecow posted:I have been using a nylon brush to clean up the carbon and the two intake valves are moving freely now and sealing well. The #5 exhaust, however, is being a pain. It refuses to move freely and stays stuck open. No matter how I tap on it, it won't close, so that explains the 0 PSI. That's really good news. Trouser chili is right, replace valve guides (and maybe springs) on #5 exhaust valves and you'll be good to go.
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Jan 1, 2010 10:13
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Me being the forum nong suggests just doing a quick decarbon and Valve stem seal job. Guides are going to start making it expensive. Its the smart thing to do but its a OHV head, Ripping it off later really isnt that hard . Just get it going first and see whats up with it. Ghetto valve compressors can be made with a dril press and a u pronged attachment. And use a suspension rubber to take up the valve clearance whilst you are compressing it.
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Jan 1, 2010 15:13
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Kaptainballistik posted:... nong ... What a wonderfully Australian word. Is a nong similar to a bogan?
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Jan 1, 2010 17:40
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EvilDonald posted:What a wonderfully Australian word. Is a nong similar to a bogan? I don't know, but I tried to GIS it and I wasn't especially pleased.
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Jan 1, 2010 17:51
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From urban dictonary.. In Australian slang, nong is used as a pretty mild and/or endearing insult. a bit of a twit, or idiot. nothing too mean or horrid is meant by calling someone a nong. See? Im the nong!!
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Jan 1, 2010 23:55
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Blaster of Justice posted:I don't know, but I tried to GIS it and I wasn't especially pleased. I'm just getting scantily clad photos of Asian girls. Obviously my results must have been different from yours. vvv It is. Just lots of naked Asian women. Moruitelda fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Jan 2, 2010 |
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Jan 1, 2010 23:56
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Moruitelda posted:I'm just getting scantily clad photos of Asian girls. Obviously my results must have been different from yours. Turn safe search off 
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Jan 1, 2010 23:57
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| # ? May 20, 2024 11:27 |
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Moruitelda posted:vvv It is. Just lots of naked Asian women. ... look closer.
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Jan 2, 2010 00:17
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