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Sometimes when I go to shift to first I get stuck in some kind of weird neutral.. In order to get out of I have to let the clutch out, rev a bit, and then pull it in again and down shift. Sometimes I have to do it a few times. The neutral light flashes on and off sort of randomly when this happens, like it's confused. Anyways, I'm going to have the mechanic look at this on Friday but was wondering if it sounded like a common problem?
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Jan 20, 2010 20:01
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soy posted:Sometimes when I go to shift to first I get stuck in some kind of weird neutral.. In order to get out of I have to let the clutch out, rev a bit, and then pull it in again and down shift. Sometimes I have to do it a few times. The neutral light flashes on and off sort of randomly when this happens, like it's confused. You're trying to shift into first when you're stopped, aren't you? Start shifting into first when you're slowing to a stop, rather than at a stop. It's not really a problem so much as it is an idiosyncrasy of motorcycle transmission design, and one of the ways they're different from cars...motorcycle transmissions can and should be downshifted into first at speed rather than at a stop. Motorcycle transmissions shift best when they're spinning, and if you're stopped with the clutch in, it's not going to be spinning in any significant fashion. When that happens to me I usually just let the clutch out to the start of the friction zone and then push it down into gear. That little bit of load on the transmission will allow it to shift and engage the shift dogs properly, rather than having the dogs out of alignment and not letting you shift as a result. Of course, you need to be comfortable with where the friction zone is before you try that. You can also just push down on the shifter over and over as you slowly let the clutch out until it sticks in gear, and then pull the clutch back in. The neutral light is flickering on and off because you're stuck in a false neutral. In between first and second but not actually in neutral, so you're hitting the neutral finder but not sticking into neutral, so it flashes each time you pass "through" neutral and then goes off when the sensor thinks you've made it into second or first, only to bounce back through neutral again. Z3n fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Jan 20, 2010 |
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Jan 20, 2010 20:11
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Ah, yeah, that makes sense. It does only happen when I shift into first at a full stop. This was the cause of many embarrassing stalls, until I went to a parking lot and practiced various MSF stuff I remembered and realized that if the shifter wiggles when I think I'm in first then I'm not in first and will probably stall or rev in a silly way. I'm pretty comfortable with the friction zone, and that's basically what I have been ending up doing to get it going. So no problems there! Now if only this loving storm would gently caress off! I'm riding tomorrow, I don't care. I rode yesterday and it was fine... But they were making a huge deal about todays storm so I took the subway in to work.
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Jan 20, 2010 21:36
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soy posted:Ah, yeah, that makes sense. It does only happen when I shift into first at a full stop. Be careful out there. I rode in today, my choices are motorcycle or bicycle anyways...  Rain riding isn't that bad, just remember to maintain following distance and to do everything extra smooth. Also, the rear brake is really useful in the rain, as it allows you to slow at a decent pace without putting a lot of strain on front end traction.
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Jan 20, 2010 21:47
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Yeah it was fine except when I got pooped onto some stupid street wherein they had removed the asphalt, leaving nothing but a 2 miles stretch of wet gravel. I survived though. That's what I get for going to the DMV in person. I waited in line there for about 15 minutes and then decided they could eat a dick, later finding out that my AAA membership will handle title stuff.
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Jan 20, 2010 22:13
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I have a couple of questions about the 2004 KLR650 that I picked up a few days ago. I cannot turn a wrench worth a poo poo, so you might have to break this down real simple like for me... The bike will backfire/pop when decelerating while using engine braking. It runs fine while I'm on the throttle or if I pull the clutch in and the RPMs drop. What will cause this? The gas in the tank when I purchased it was a few months old but I've since refilled it with fresh gas.
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Jan 20, 2010 23:14
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M.C. McMic posted:Yeah, all the lights work. They just don't blink. I've actually been sitting at intersections doing it manually with my thumb. Haha. My CM250 did this when it was low on battery power, not sure if that's gonna be helpful.
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Jan 20, 2010 23:25
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Hughmoris posted:I have a couple of questions about the 2004 KLR650 that I picked up a few days ago. I cannot turn a wrench worth a poo poo, so you might have to break this down real simple like for me... Popping on decel can be a sign of running lean (not enough fuel as compared to the amount of air that is being sucked into the engine through the carb), but some bikes just pop on decel, and thats what they do. I've never owned or ridden a KLR, so we'll have to wait for another KLR owner to chime in and say if KLR's just do that, or if you're actually lean. How does it run otherwise?
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Jan 20, 2010 23:25
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Phat_Albert posted:Popping on decel can be a sign of running lean (not enough fuel as compared to the amount of air that is being sucked into the engine through the carb), but some bikes just pop on decel, and thats what they do. While applying some throttle it appears to run just fine. Its pretty loud and I'm thinking I might have a slight exhaust leak. I don't know the proper terminology for the parts but where the exhaust pipe exits the engine (the header?) the bracket there that holds the pipe flush to the engine is a little loose There is a nut that is missing on one side so one side of the bracket isn't flush to the engine. I don't know if that could cause the backfiring but I'm going to go to a parts store tomorrow and see if I can find a nut for it.
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Jan 20, 2010 23:44
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Hughmoris posted:While applying some throttle it appears to run just fine. Its pretty loud and I'm thinking I might have a slight exhaust leak. I don't know the proper terminology for the parts but where the exhaust pipe exits the engine (the header?) the bracket there that holds the pipe flush to the engine is a little loose There is a nut that is missing on one side so one side of the bracket isn't flush to the engine. I don't know if that could cause the backfiring but I'm going to go to a parts store tomorrow and see if I can find a nut for it. Got a picture? Most bikes will pop on decel if the exhaust is opened up at all, including exhaust leaks.
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Jan 20, 2010 23:55
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Z3n posted:Got a picture? Most bikes will pop on decel if the exhaust is opened up at all, including exhaust leaks. Hope these help. Its the bolt for the bracket that holds the exhaust pipe the the engine head. Right side - Way it should look  Left side - showing clearance and missing nut. 
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Jan 21, 2010 00:19
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Yeah that could definitely cause some weird popping and exhaust leak type noises. Get it sorted out and then go from there. Does it have an aftermarket pipe on it or a stock one that's had the baffles removed?
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Jan 21, 2010 00:21
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Mine does that because I put on an aftermarket exhaust and didn't install bigger jets yet. I assume it doesn't really damage anything aside from being loud/annoying and probably slightly less fuel efficient?
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Jan 21, 2010 00:49
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BotchedLobotomy posted:Mine does that because I put on an aftermarket exhaust and didn't install bigger jets yet. I assume it doesn't really damage anything aside from being loud/annoying and probably slightly less fuel efficient? It'll run a little hotter, but it's not gonna hurt anything.
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Jan 21, 2010 00:56
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soy posted:Ah, yeah, that makes sense. It does only happen when I shift into first at a full stop. In addition to Z3n's advice, I find rolling the bike forward while shifting into first helps a ton. No need to roll far or fast, just rock it forward a little bit. I do it every time I shift into first while stopped, after letting the bike warm up in neutral, usually. I shift into first while moving when coming to a stop.
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Jan 21, 2010 07:40
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Any suggestions? Is my drill just too weak, or are cobalt bits just not tough enough to prime a hole into a bolt? There has to be some easy way to do this; it's getting rather frustrating that I just can't drill a simple hole to jam the extractor into. TapTheForwardAssist posted:
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Jan 21, 2010 07:55
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Broken-bolt extractor troubles
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Any suggestions? Is my drill just too weak, or are cobalt bits just not tough enough to prime a hole into a bolt? Check your PMs. Also, i've got tungsten bits and a drill press if you want to try those. e: well...i guess getting a bike onto the press's table might prove tricky
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Jan 21, 2010 08:11
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Hughmoris posted:I have a couple of questions about the 2004 KLR650 that I picked up a few days ago. I cannot turn a wrench worth a poo poo, so you might have to break this down real simple like for me... My KLR does a bit of that farting around when I engine brake.
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Jan 21, 2010 10:20
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What's a good site from which to buy parts online? I'd like to replace the headlight on my CB350 with something that will actually illuminate the road.
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Jan 21, 2010 16:03
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Where's the best place to buy tires at these days? I can't remember where I used to order them online before.
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Jan 21, 2010 17:29
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Like most bikes, KLRs are jetted lean from the factory so if you haven't done anything to change that you might get a lttle pop on decel.
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Jan 21, 2010 17:35
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Bob Morales posted:Where's the best place to buy tires at these days? But shop around the usual places for deals.
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Jan 21, 2010 18:16
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M.C. McMic posted:What's a good site from which to buy parts online? I'd like to replace the headlight on my CB350 with something that will actually illuminate the road. I'd look on ebay, and also check delkevic.us, they remake OEM parts for cheap. Make sure you've got the correct voltage to the headlight for a modern bulb. You can also add aftermarket driving lights, although again, you're going to want to make sure the charging system can handle it. TapTheForwardAssist posted:Any suggestions? Is my drill just too weak, or are cobalt bits just not tough enough to prime a hole into a bolt? I have to think that it must be your drill, because I've never had a problem drilling holes into bolts. I suppose the bolt could be hardened. Also, are you able to drive firmly into the bolt? If the shifter mechanism is giving slightly as you push on it, that could cause the problem. I get tires from either ebay or swmototires, usually ebay.
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Jan 21, 2010 18:20
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M.C. McMic posted:Yeah, all the lights work. They just don't blink. I've actually been sitting at intersections doing it manually with my thumb. Haha. Have you recently installed LED turn signals, or are they incandescent bulbs? If they're LED's, you might not be getting the proper resistance in the electrical lines. A solution would be to buy and install a motorcycle load equalizer. If they're not LEDs, but regular bulbs, make sure to check all the connections on the lights, as well as the connectors on the bulbs themselves. Any amount of corrosion can cause the light to not fully blink.
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Jan 21, 2010 19:56
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Could also just be a burned out relay, but it's good to check the free stuff first. 
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Jan 21, 2010 20:14
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Bob Morales posted:Where's the best place to buy tires at these days? good selection of weird stuff at http://www.tiresunlimited.com/motorcycle_tires.htm
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Jan 21, 2010 20:35
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jdonz posted:http://www.swmototires.com/ Did they update (drastically improve) their website within the last year? I could have sworn I used them, but the site looks completely different. Anyway, if it's the place I'm thinking of, yes, they're great.
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Jan 21, 2010 20:46
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Doctor Zero posted:Did they update (drastically improve) their website within the last year? I could have sworn I used them, but the site looks completely different. Anyway, if it's the place I'm thinking of, yes, they're great. I'd hate to have seen it before! That page is straight outta 1997.
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Jan 21, 2010 22:27
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Doctor Zero posted:Did they update (drastically improve) their website within the last year? I could have sworn I used them, but the site looks completely different. Anyway, if it's the place I'm thinking of, yes, they're great. Yes, they did. And yes, the site was horrible before.
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Jan 21, 2010 22:35
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M.C. McMic posted:What's a good site from which to buy parts online? I'd like to replace the headlight on my CB350 with something that will actually illuminate the road. I bought mine from these guys: http://aztec8.com/ Specifically the one in all black: http://aztec8.com/catalog/c3_p1.html Build quality isn't very impressive, it's developed an annoying resonance at certain revs. The reflector doesn't have any clever pattern either, so it's pretty much as good as your bulb. Without having measured any lumens, a road I ride often has an unlit part through a forest which is pitch black and riding there I don't feel any particular need to go high beam to see the road. Although I always do to catch deer eyes up ahead. I'd drop their brackets though. A bit too fiddly and hard to get straight and tight. I'm swapping mine for someone more like this: http://www.4-motorcycles.co.uk/acatalog/Headlight_Brackets.html About your relay, get one like this: http://www.4-motorcycles.co.uk/acatalog/Headlight_Brackets.html They are sold all over the place. If you still have flasher issues you need to check your wiring, but then you have a solid state relay which is a good idea on any old UJM.
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Jan 21, 2010 22:35
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:good selection of weird stuff at http://www.tiresunlimited.com/motorcycle_tires.htm They have literally the worst website on the planet, but they have lots of different tires at great prices. I've bought from them twice now, and both times were a breeze.
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Jan 21, 2010 23:03
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So lets say someone offered you a crazy deal on a '99 Bandit 600, round about half of its KBB trade-in value. This would be your 3rd bike and you think it would be a neat project to learn some wrenching since you already have a perfectly good Ninja500. The owner was supposed to meet you at his house, but he didn't answer the door or the phone, so you can't ask him questions about it. All you know going in is that, according to the owner, he wrecked it in '01, rebuilt it, and then drove it until he got into some trouble and couldn't afford insurance anymore. And that he made it into a bit of a streetfighter and put on a 12 bar, and that "all it needs is a horn and to have the carbs synced". And that he's selling it now for cheaps because he needs to pay some bills. The county sticker is dated for 2006, so it's probably been sitting since some time in 2005. When I stood it up the tank sloshed, so I assume a liquid that was once gasoline has been in there for 5 years. It's got 35k on the clock.   Things that struck me as questionable:  paint over the weld on the passenger peg is disturbed  But damage to the weld seems minor.  replaced factory airbox with pod filters; filters seem to have deteriorated and it is unknown if it was ridden like that.  Intake gaskets are dry rotting.  needs new tires.  and chain.  mirror mounts are busted.  Cables need to be replaced.  fairing is damaged (but I don't particularly care about looks)  petcock was left on which may be why...  ..there is effluvia on the engine cover (and, point being, god knows where else and what has gone wrong to cause that). The bar ends are gone and the gas cap is missing it's key-hole-cover. The choke is very stiff and may not be fully completing its path of travel. The frame and forks seems straight. The brakes seem to work fine, don't drag, and the disks are clean. The levers operate as they should. What do you say, CA? Should I bite or pass? televiper fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Jan 22, 2010 |
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Jan 22, 2010 01:32
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Pass. Run far away.
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Jan 22, 2010 01:49
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televiper posted:http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w319/alecband/Bandit%20600/IMG_0145.jpg Oh HELL no. That bike went down loving hard, and/or has been beat to poo poo. Pass.
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Jan 22, 2010 02:07
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I'd go for it for 500$. No higher. Half of bluebook is at least 1500$, though, I'm sure, so run screaming.
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Jan 22, 2010 02:15
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Z3n posted:I'd go for it for 500$. No higher. Half of bluebook is at least 1500$, though, I'm sure, so run screaming. He's asking $750, so I'll let it go rather than try to haggle it down another 33% Thanks, gentlemen.
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Jan 22, 2010 02:36
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televiper posted:He's asking $750, so I'll let it go rather than try to haggle it down another 33% Actually, now that I think about it, it's probably not even worth 500$. I mean, no loss because you're not even going for it, but there are too many potential problems now that I really think about the worst case scenario.
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Jan 22, 2010 02:38
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Ola posted:I bought mine from these guys: http://aztec8.com/ Okay, thanks. I'll look at the wiring on my signals. I know absolutely nothing about wiring or electrical work in general, but I'm guessing I can still spot a corroded wire or whatever. You posted the link to the brackets twice instead of the link to the relay. I appreciate the help, though.
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Jan 22, 2010 16:35
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Wooops sorry about that. Just google "motorcycle solid state flasher relay" and you'll get a million hits. By the way, if you don't have one already, get a multimeter. Owning an old japanese bike without owning a multimeter is like being blind, owning a guide dog but not owning a leash.
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Jan 22, 2010 17:51
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Electrical system question here. '91 GS500. Got my Big box of parts, one of them is my new AC generator rotor. Problem is, the one I pulled off my bike is different. It's got six, smaller magnets instead of the three larger ones as in the new rotor. If you split the magnets in half, you'd have it. I'm just wondering if this would cause any problems when I throw it all back together. Anyone have any experience with these?
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Jan 23, 2010 09:35
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