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It's not my video, however google revealed that they pass oil through the shaft for use the VVT and save 20g at the same time so  I guessGIS turned up this 
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Apr 19, 2010 06:20
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jamal posted:it's kind of the other way around. race cars use pistons with more thermal expansion and higher piston-wall clearances so they make a lot of noise at startup. Then when the car is hot they expand and are quiet. That's interesting, I've always thought any kind of knock or internal noise in a race motor was VERY BAD. Kinda makes sense though. As far as a DD, my Protege5 had a bit of slap and after freaking out and lots of research found out it was common for the car and not to worry about it.
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Apr 19, 2010 13:27
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MrSaturn posted:This interests me. Can you elaborate a bit on this? Are they hollow for some VVT madness, or for weight savings? It seems to me the latter is a strange place to try to save weight. Camshafts spin, less rotating mass probably makes a pretty big difference when the engine is revving to 7k +.
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Apr 19, 2010 15:50
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I need updates  Whats going on with the Subaru?
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Apr 21, 2010 14:15
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8ender posted:I need updates He must have rolled it off a cliff for the insurance money.
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Apr 22, 2010 00:19
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8ender posted:I need updates Had my Subaru guy come by tonight. The motor is coming out (when I get time).
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Apr 24, 2010 03:15
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Sockington posted:Had my Subaru guy come by tonight. The motor is coming out (when I get time). What did he think was wrong with the engine?
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Apr 24, 2010 05:02
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8ender posted:What did he think was wrong with the engine? The head gaskets leak so I might as well pull the sucker out for the amount of screwing around involved. Bearings are on the list to get changed in the process as well as everything else. It'll just be a few weeks before I have the cash to buy everything and put it back together.
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Apr 24, 2010 21:44
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Sockington posted:The head gaskets leak so I might as well pull the sucker out for the amount of screwing around involved. Bearings are on the list to get changed in the process as well as everything else. It'll just be a few weeks before I have the cash to buy everything and put it back together. Uhhhhh can't you finish the 323? That's my favorite of your projects and it's been ages since you updated about it.
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Apr 24, 2010 21:49
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Rhyno posted:Uhhhhh can't you finish the 323? That's my favorite of your projects and it's been ages since you updated about it. I suspect that the Subie is going to be road worthy loooooong before the 323 is again. Think of what the "Getting the wife her DD back" brownie points are going to be worth. (or have you been driving the 323 Sockington? I thought it was in pieces and waiting for a turbo or some such)
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Apr 24, 2010 22:48
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Rhyno posted:Uhhhhh can't you finish the 323? - Front and rear springs need to be replaced - Rear TTL bushings - Replace rear TTLs as mine are seized - Replace rear spindles as mine are rusted solid (Escort GT rear disc donor) and rear wheel bearings - Paint underside with POR-15 - Paint exterior - Replace various rubber seals/trim that has dry-rotted in the past 350,000km - Pull the motor and fix small rust spot in engine bay - Repaint engine bay - Drop front subframe and install subframe w/ sway bar - Fix all the little holes in the floor that let water in (since I was a fool and removed the asphalt sound deadening that also water proofed the cabin) - I'm still using the 1.6L transmission and clutch. I have two 1.8L transmissions, but I need to machine the flywheel and buy a new clutch setup. - Get the needed shift linkage for the 1.8L transmission (my 1.8L linkage is pretty well destroyed by rust - Escort GT donor car strikes again). - Fix the small oil leaks in the 1.8 - Replace the timing belt and tensioner as I'm still running a junkyard motor with ZERO maintenance (timing belt, water pump, gaskets to stop slow oil leaks) (and there's lots more that I'm not even getting into yet) That's not even getting into tearing my 1.8L BP apart to put in the GTX rods and (still have to acquire) forged pistons. Then there's the turbos and exhaust manifold that's still sitting in Pie's shed. The Subaru should be much quicker to sort out and give me something to drive everyday - once that is done, then I have two perfect little projects in the garage to occupy the rest of my time with.
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Apr 25, 2010 08:43
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Hey Sock, if I bought a GTX driveline and shipped it to the US, how hard would it be to swap it into a standard 323 hatch? Is it as easy as swapping in the GTX rear subframe for AWD if I brought over the whole driveline, or is FWD with a North America tranny and the GTX engine easier? I'm seriously considering it, I can get a GTX engine for less than $800 NZD on trademe and a 323 on craigslist for less than $1000. Where should I start researching?
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Apr 25, 2010 09:46
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meatpotato posted:Hey Sock, if I bought a GTX driveline and shipped it to the US, how hard would it be to swap it into a standard 323 hatch? Is it as easy as swapping in the GTX rear subframe for AWD if I brought over the whole driveline, or is FWD with a North America tranny and the GTX engine easier? I'm seriously considering it, I can get a GTX engine for less than $800 NZD on trademe and a 323 on craigslist for less than $1000. Where should I start researching? GTX engines aren't anything special. Nothing is forged. Simply get a N/A BP and build it with available aftermarket parts. No, AWD won't swap directly in. The front subframe is different (rather than one large one, it has two small supports that run front/back and have points for the control arms to mount to) and the rear subframe has different spots to mount (that aren't on the FWD version). Then there's the fuel tank to deal with (driveshaft runs right where the current one is - AWD has a big hump in it to allow). So yes, it can be done. In the end though, the standard Mazda AWD drivetrain sucks dick and can't hold gently caress-all for power. You'll be blowing diffs and transmissions like clockwork once more power is added. For the effort, you're essentially taking a FWD Celica and trying to make an All-trac out of it - it's easier to just buy an Alltrac. So expect like $4-5k in random little poo poo to get it sorted. Sockington fucked around with this message at 09:55 on Apr 25, 2010 |
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Apr 25, 2010 09:53
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So would be grabbing all the turbo stuff from a GTX and then slapping it onto a BP from the US be a better/cheaper idea? I figured AWD drive would be a much more difficult conversion than just the GTX motor. vvvv No, I'd just bring over all the factory turbo stuff from the GTX and forget the AWD. This'll be in November if I can manage to get my act together. Hunter2 Thompson fucked around with this message at 11:32 on Apr 25, 2010 |
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Apr 25, 2010 10:58
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meatpotato posted:So would be grabbing all the turbo stuff from a GTX and then slapping it onto a BP from the US be a better/cheaper idea? I figured AWD drive would be a much more difficult conversion than just the GTX motor. If you go ahead with this, I'll give you all of sockingtons heavy turbo/exhaust items to ship at the same time. I can't imagine shipping a set of subframes with diffs/gearboxes is going to be very cheap though 
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Apr 25, 2010 11:23
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poisoned pie posted:If you go ahead with this, I'll give you all of sockingtons heavy turbo/exhaust items to ship at the same time. Let's not spread the wealth too far, now. I've got a couple hours today so I might go play around with the Subaru (in the rain )
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Apr 25, 2010 16:21
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Had a quick go for an hour or so today. Battery and washer fluid removed  Intake system removed  Fuel lines marked and removed  There's a little wire that I'm going to have to snip thanks to the remote start system. Just have to remember to hook it back up after! 
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Apr 25, 2010 19:08
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Just noticed all that "red dust" around the AC compressor again. I figured that was rust dust. While you have things disassembled you might want to check out that compressor because I remember the clutch being pretty drat loud.
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Apr 25, 2010 20:32
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I've been mainly doing house stuff while home on weekends. Another two weeks until full-time access to the Subaru again. 
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May 15, 2010 18:23
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Sockington posted:It'll get on the 323 sometime later. Oh Sock..
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May 16, 2010 15:00
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lol because he is the rust master, right??
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May 17, 2010 07:14
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At least my spot lamps still look pimp.  I moved the pool pump out of the garage this weekend to give me (eventual) room for a standing air compressor. Just need to work on arranging that compressor bit and my garage will be getting closer to my personal hobby heaven. 
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May 17, 2010 07:18
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Hey Sock, did you ever get my PM about 323 turbo-ability? I'd like to pick your brain sometime.
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May 17, 2010 10:28
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Radiator out.  There might be a valve cover leak.  Intake off and P/S pulled off to the side.  8ender... been smoking during service? Found a couple of these.  Manifold pulled off.  A couple of coolant hoses and everything will be disconnected. From there, it's the flexplate and bellhousing bolts. 
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May 22, 2010 02:34
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I'm eager to see the teardown...
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May 22, 2010 02:53
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Awesome, glad to see you working on something again. 
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May 22, 2010 05:15
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Sockington posted:There might be a valve cover leak. Looks like the spark plug seals died. Odd because they were fine the last time I put plugs in. You can get a set of four from a Subie dealer for around $5. Sockington posted:8ender... been smoking during service? Found a couple of these. I smoke constantly during service but all the butts end up on the shop floor 
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May 22, 2010 05:38
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8ender posted:Looks like the spark plug seals died. Odd because they were fine the last time I put plugs in. You can get a set of four from a Subie dealer for around $5. Oh, I'll be needing WAY more than a couple valve cover grommets for your motor. The PCV valve was also gummy with the coolant/oil mixture - so there had been some contamination somewhere down the line. Also, this will be the first time I've pulled a motor and KEPT the A/C connected rather than chopping it out. 
Sockington fucked around with this message at 13:35 on May 22, 2010 |
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May 22, 2010 13:33
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You guys actually use a/c up there? I'm shocked. So what's the plan for the motor? Rebuild?
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May 22, 2010 15:02
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leica posted:You guys actually use a/c up there? I'm shocked. Sometimes it gets hot when we leave our igloo. leica posted:So what's the plan for the motor? Rebuild? Outfront Motorsports reman shortblock. Not sure how gross the heads look.
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May 22, 2010 15:24
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leica posted:You guys actually use a/c up there? I'm shocked.
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May 22, 2010 16:26
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Going to clean up the intake manifold before I put it back on. Very oily air temp sensor.  Everything stripped down, labeled, and bagged. When I get back to work, some things may run through the bead blaster. 
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May 22, 2010 19:48
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Sockington posted:Oh, I'll be needing WAY more than a couple valve cover grommets for your motor. The PCV valve was also gummy with the coolant/oil mixture - so there had been some contamination somewhere down the line. I kind of suspected as much I had planned on the full gasket set.I replaced the PCV when I bought the car just as part of my usual new used car maintenance. If its gummed up already then you're probably right and the head gaskets were leaking internally Likely the worst of it happened when I moved house last summer with the Subaru and trailer.
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May 22, 2010 22:28
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Sockington posted:When I get back to work, some things may run through the bead blaster. Stuff coming back from the bead blaster are my favourite bits of this thread. So clean. 
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May 22, 2010 23:10
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Starter out Tranny split  Messy oily cock on the way out.  Out.   Also noticed something. Driver's front lower control arm;  Passenger side (rust hole - top right);  Check that ride height, yo.  So STi lower control arms are a direct bolt-on affair?
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May 23, 2010 21:01
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If you're already screwing around with the control arms, you might as well add an anti-lift kit to move the lower mounting points for better cornering. WRX control arms should be compatible - 06 WRX control arms are aluminum, but they went back to steel in 07.
Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 00:39 on May 24, 2010 |
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May 24, 2010 00:37
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Are those new Monroe struts I put in rusting already?  Also if you get a chance ditch the Monroe struts on the front. Apparently "Sensatrak" means "massive body roll and strange behavior over uneven pavement". The rears are a complete mystery and very likely the factory struts.
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May 24, 2010 02:13
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Those sway bar end links are serious business. They look easy to service or replace, as well.
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May 24, 2010 02:27
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what, you didn't think you were getting off that easily, did you?
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May 24, 2010 04:20
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Take the car to the frame, remove rust with steel brush, por-15, rebuild car. You know it's the right thing to do, and hey: it's May! You've got like nearly 5 months before it starts snowing again, right?
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May 24, 2010 06:33
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