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Marv Hushman posted:Benwards: I have neither an impact driver nor a dremel, so I guess I'll be drilling it out and hunting down a replacement. Yeehaw. Harbor Freight has a really nice small impact screwdriver for about 6.99. Combine that with a hammer and you can get pretty much any stripped screw out. I have a set of Milwaukee Shockwave impact bits meant for a cordless impact driver costing about $20 that let me use my cheapo HF screwdriver/hammer combo for almost any job. Last week I used it to take some horribly mangled bowl screws out of a $400 Ninja 250 I picked up a few weeks ago. I was ready to break out the drill and easy-outs but a few hits with the hammer fixed it right up. It also took some well stripped #3 phillips petcock mounting screws off without damaging the petcock or fuel tank.
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Jun 11, 2010 05:46
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Z3n posted:How far through it's travel is the idle adjustment screw? But it seems far more likely that the choke is getting slightly stuck on then. All the way down.
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Jun 11, 2010 16:09
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angrytech posted:All the way down. Yeah, probably a stuck choke then.
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Jun 11, 2010 17:25
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Z3n posted:Yeah, probably a stuck choke then. Could that be causing the backfiring and oil in the exhaust pipe too?
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Jun 11, 2010 17:44
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angrytech posted:Could that be causing the backfiring and oil in the exhaust pipe too? Yes on #1, but on #2 are you sure it's oil? A mixture of water, soot and gas looks very much like oil.
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Jun 11, 2010 17:45
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Ola posted:Yes on #1, but on #2 are you sure it's oil? A mixture of water, soot and gas looks very much like oil. IIRC, it smelled like oil and I think it felt like oil too.
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Jun 11, 2010 19:42
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Thanks, guys, for advising on the issue of my friend's Ninja 250's twisted front wheel! We got a stand for his bike since his centerstand is mysteriously missing (we found traces of neon lighting on his bike and suspect there used to be a Muzzy system). It was on sale from Harbor Freight. Now we're puzzled and wondering how to use the stand.  Click here for the full 600x800 image. Are we missing any parts in allowing ourselves to use the stand with the ninja?
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Jun 12, 2010 01:52
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There should be a pair of arms that go through the square holes that lift up the swingarm/forks.
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Jun 12, 2010 02:00
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Can you mix 10W40 and 10W50 if it's the same type of oil? Gixxer's due an oil change, needs 3 litres of oil, and I've got 2 litres of each (both bottles are Motul 5100). Also, the Gixxer is marked for 10W40, in winter would the 10W40 or 50 be better?
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Jun 12, 2010 05:46
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Also, the Gixxer is marked for 10W40, in winter would the 10W40 or 50 be better? Shouldn't matter, as the first number indicates the cold viscosity rating. The first number (before the W) is 'winter grade' (or cold start viscosity) and the second number is high temp viscosity.
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Jun 12, 2010 06:06
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Can you mix 10W40 and 10W50 if it's the same type of oil? Gixxer's due an oil change, needs 3 litres of oil, and I've got 2 litres of each (both bottles are Motul 5100). Also, the Gixxer is marked for 10W40, in winter would the 10W40 or 50 be better? Mixing them is fine. You want lighter oil in the winter and heavier oil in the summer, but I wouldn't worry about it.
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Jun 12, 2010 06:48
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Z3n posted:Mixing them is fine. You want lighter oil in the winter and heavier oil in the summer, but I wouldn't worry about it. Sick one.
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Jun 12, 2010 08:21
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Z3n posted:Mixing them is fine. You want lighter oil in the winter and heavier oil in the summer, but I wouldn't worry about it. Why does the season matter? The engine temperature is usually maintained at a fairly consistent level.
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Jun 12, 2010 12:38
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Jack the Smack posted:Why does the season matter? The engine temperature is usually maintained at a fairly consistent level. It's more consistent on a water cooled bke, but my air cooled bike barely pulls the oil temp needle off the peg in near freezing weather. Once it gets hot it stablizes very nicely around the temp where the oil cooler thermostat opens. If I hit rain it drops 15 degrees in seconds.
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Jun 12, 2010 13:02
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Jack the Smack posted:Why does the season matter? The engine temperature is usually maintained at a fairly consistent level. Mostly for cold starting these days, I'd imagine. Most owners manuals will have a little graph in them that shows their recommendation for oil weights according to temp, usually 10w40 through wintertime and 10w50 or 20w50 for summer. Going from 50 degrees to 100 degrees outside temp will affect how much heat your cooling system can shed.
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Jun 12, 2010 16:24
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I can't seem to switch my GS500e into "Lock" mode on the ignition. It says to push with a little arrow but it won't go. Off-On is just fine. Is there a trick to it that I'm missing? When the previous owner dropped it off, he seemed to do it just fine.
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Jun 12, 2010 17:40
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SlightlyMadman posted:I can't seem to switch my GS500e into "Lock" mode on the ignition. It says to push with a little arrow but it won't go. Off-On is just fine. Is there a trick to it that I'm missing? When the previous owner dropped it off, he seemed to do it just fine. Steering fully to one side?
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Jun 12, 2010 17:43
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Ola posted:Steering fully to one side? Ah-ha! It was, but it was to the wrong side. Got it now, thanks!
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Jun 12, 2010 17:55
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problem solved. nm.
ZombiesAhead fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Jun 12, 2010 |
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Jun 12, 2010 18:58
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Endless Mike posted:There should be a pair of arms that go through the square holes that lift up the swingarm/forks. crap, looks like my friend's stand didn't come with a pair of arms. What are they specifically called? Is it normal for stands to not come together with those?
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Jun 13, 2010 00:02
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I have no idea what they're called, but it would be uncommon to come without them since they're pretty vital to the basic function of the stand.
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Jun 13, 2010 04:57
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For the the forks http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/lifts-stands/front-fork-adapter-for-motorcycle-stand-65621.html And for the swingarm http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/lifts-stands/paddle-adapters-66198.html
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Jun 13, 2010 05:11
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I have an odd question. I'm looking into getting a new tank for my cafe Honda Rebel project, since the stock one is too tear-drop shaped for my liking. Does anyone know of a bike besides Rebels and Sportsters that use forward tank-mounting tabs? If not, is there a way to affix a tabless tank to my frame? For reference, this is what I'm talking about. 
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Jun 13, 2010 08:33
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I currently have a Honda Shadow VT500, and it's my first bike (and experience at all with bikes), but I've decided I want something better and more powerful. I'm going to try and save some money for next season and pick something up (very)used. I thought I wanted a cruiser (which is why I went after the Shadow), but the more I ride, the less I'm into it. I don't want a full blown sport bike like a Ninja or GSXR type deals. Would something like a Suzuki SV650 be a good choice? I'd definitely be looking into some fairly older model ones as I'm sure I won't have a ton to spend. Are there any other kinds to look out for? I'm trying to learn my way around, but I'm still in the dark about a lot of kinds of bikes. Also, what are some good general tools to buy? I realised after attempting to dismantle my headlight assembly, that i have NO metric tools. My headlight points upward, and as far as I can tell, I just need to undo the screws on either end of the forks and swivel it down a bit. I don't ride at night much, and I discovered this on a dark back road, and was pretty drat scared, as the road in front of me was pitch black, but the trees above were nicely lit! Sorry if I overdid the less chatting part.
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Jun 13, 2010 09:05
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Binge posted:I thought I wanted a cruiser (which is why I went after the Shadow), but the more I ride, the less I'm into it. I don't want a full blown sport bike like a Ninja or GSXR type deals. Would something like a Suzuki SV650 be a good choice? Well, what kind of riding do you do/want to do? An SV650 or a Ninja 650 are both friendly bikes with relaxed ergos (or so I'm told). You could also look at the Suzuki GS500 or Ninja 500. I'm actually in the same boat as you as the cruiser isn't really suiting me (and is currently broken) and the 650s are on my short list. I'm also looking at things like the Versys that are even more relaxed than the SV or the Ninja, made more for eating up miles than running around town. Or there's a few good bikes out there designed for taking dirt roads and mild off-roading. As for tools, did you not get a tool kit with the bike? All I have ever needed for minor maintenance is a screwdriver and a couple of metric sockets. 90% of the time, I just grab the 8 mm and 10 mm sockets and am good to go. Hell, other than four allen head screws holding the mufflers on and two 12 mm bolts holding the tank, I can disassemble most of the bike with those two sockets. If I were you, I'd get a cheap metric socket set from Harbor Freight and use that until it breaks or I need to add to it. You will probably also need a couple of small wrenches to get at the throttle cables, so if you see a cheap set, pick it up. As for the headlight, are you certain you have to swivel the whole thing? I thought the same thing with my bike, but it turns out there's a couple of small screws on the underside of the housing. Turning them swivels the light either up and down or left and right. I think it's the standard setup. Uthor fucked around with this message at 13:03 on Jun 13, 2010 |
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Jun 13, 2010 13:01
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unSavory posted:Sportsters You're lucky that sportsters are like that, because you can get any kind of tank you can fathom for a sportster for cheap. If the spacing is bad just bend! shacked up with Brenda fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Jun 13, 2010 |
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Jun 13, 2010 14:23
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Binge posted:
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Jun 13, 2010 15:44
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Binge posted:I thought I wanted a cruiser (which is why I went after the Shadow), but the more I ride, the less I'm into it. I don't want a full blown sport bike like a Ninja or GSXR type deals. Would something like a Suzuki SV650 be a good choice? I'd definitely be looking into some fairly older model ones as I'm sure I won't have a ton to spend. Pretty much every cheap bike is in your category, so I would worry more about the picking part instead of the choosing. "More powerful" is also a bit of a misnomer, since peak power tells very little about the characteristics of any bike. You can't tell what you'll like or dislike from a bunch of bulletpoints on a forum. Torque, handling, seating position and speed only have meaning when you have experience to tell them apart. You're looking for reference bike to further your understanding of your taste wich means my tip for you is: pick one you like to look at, but is not a cruiser. Not very helpful, but you don't have a big list of criteria here.  Binge posted:Also, what are some good general tools to buy? Don't cheap out and buy when needed.
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Jun 13, 2010 16:42
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I've got a '98 CBR 600f. I need to charge the battery before I take it out. I'm wondering how long I need to charge it for before it's safe to drive? It's a standard 12v bike battery. The charger has this written: Input: 120v AC 60hz .2 amp Output: 120v DC 1 amp This is the bike that several pages ago had the shot R&R. I just got it in the mail, so I wanted to swap them and ride it for a bit today, but if it's like 6 hours to charge the battery to full, and you shouldn't use it until it's fully charged, then I won't have a chance today 
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Jun 13, 2010 16:47
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Probably about an hour or hour and a half will do the trick on your battery. Make sure it's topped up to the full lines with distilled water before you charge it. If it's low you could cook it.
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Jun 13, 2010 17:05
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Bugdrvr posted:Probably about an hour or hour and a half will do the trick on your battery. Make sure it's topped up to the full lines with distilled water before you charge it. If it's low you could cook it. They get low on distilled water? After I poured it in and put the cap over it, it specifically said "do not open." I was under the impression that you never have to refill them.
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Jun 13, 2010 17:12
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KARMA! posted:Pretty much every cheap bike is in your category, so I would worry more about the picking part instead of the choosing. Yeah I know what you're saying, and that's why I'm confused and looking here. I'm the only person I know that rides, so I get zero exposure to other kinds of bikes. I tried going to a bike dealer recently, but the online reviews of that place were spot on (every one was saying how rude they were). I had hoped to be able to test drive something. KARMA! posted:You're looking for reference bike to further your understanding of your taste wich means my tip for you is: pick one you like to look at, but is not a cruiser. Not very helpful, but you don't have a big list of criteria here. I just saw a video someone posted of a Suzuki VStrom, and I really like that. So for now, VStrom and 650's are on my radar. Uthor posted:As for tools, did you not get a tool kit with the bike? All I have ever needed for minor maintenance is a screwdriver and a couple of metric sockets. 90% of the time, I just grab the 8 mm and 10 mm sockets and am good to go. Hell, other than four allen head screws holding the mufflers on and two 12 mm bolts holding the tank, I can disassemble most of the bike with those two sockets. If I were you, I'd get a cheap metric socket set from Harbor Freight and use that until it breaks or I need to add to it. You will probably also need a couple of small wrenches to get at the throttle cables, so if you see a cheap set, pick it up. No, I didn't get anything extra with my bike. I'm going to go to HF tomorrow on my day off and do just that. I definitely need a socket to remove the bolt for the housing part. This bike is old, it's an '83, and it actually doesnt even have the other bolt on the other side. But it is very stable and attached firmly, so I dunno. I'm not that mechanically inclined, but I'm always into learning! Thanks for the replies!
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Jun 13, 2010 17:15
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Binge, I recently discovered the toolkit that I started with when I started riding. I'll send it to you if you want it...it's just a really basic metric socket set, but it'll get you started if you're short on cash. The only thing that I ask is that when you eventually upgrade your tools, you pass it on to the next rider in need. E-mail or PM me through the site if you want it. Also, I'd caution you against the SV650S if you're looking at more upright bikes...the N is nicely upright, the S has higher pegs and clipons rather than handlebars, so the seating position is much, much more aggressive.
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Jun 13, 2010 17:49
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Z3n posted:Also, I'd caution you against the SV650S if you're looking at more upright bikes...the N is nicely upright, the S has higher pegs and clipons rather than handlebars, so the seating position is much, much more aggressive. I know it sounds ridiculous, but if you can find one of the 1200cc Buell's (Lightning, less so the Firebolt), but that's the bike I moved into from my SV. While yes it does have more hp, it has a much less aggressive power delivery, it is more comfortable than my SV was (monnnnnkeybutt) by a longshot, still gets 50+ mpg, and it's been tuned so that the engine braking is much, much more tolerable. It is, however, louder than gently caress, so be sure if you get one, that you get some earplugs. Also, the insurance for me was fine (less than $250 for a year, full coverage) because it's naked, and doesn't have a 'crotch rocket' image with it (rightly so). Very fun bike, comfortable, very driveable (tons of torque), good mileage, and plenty quick (103hp). edit: now that Buell is out of business, I wouldn't be surprised if the resale prices dropped out.
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Jun 13, 2010 18:07
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Not around here. Someone had a 98 tubeframe on Craigslist for $4100.
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Jun 13, 2010 18:14
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Ok, the Lightning is absolutely beautiful. I want it. Looking on Craigslist, one person has a 2003 for 3800. That's not horrible, and by next season I'm sure there will be more. Man I would love that thing now.
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Jun 13, 2010 18:27
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Binge posted:I definitely need a socket to remove the bolt for the housing part. This bike is old, it's an '83, and it actually doesnt even have the other bolt on the other side. But it is very stable and attached firmly, so I dunno. I'm not that mechanically inclined, but I'm always into learning! I still don't think you need to remove the housing. Look around underneath the light for two small screws. Turn those to aim the light. My friend's early 80's Honda has adjustment screws like that.
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Jun 13, 2010 18:30
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Binge posted:Ok, the Lightning is absolutely beautiful. I want it. Looking on Craigslist, one person has a 2003 for 3800. That's not horrible, and by next season I'm sure there will be more. Man I would love that thing now. Lightnings are sweet bikes. They handle well, and have earth shattering torque.
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Jun 13, 2010 19:16
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Binge posted:Ok, the Lightning is absolutely beautiful. I want it. Looking on Craigslist, one person has a 2003 for 3800. That's not horrible, and by next season I'm sure there will be more. Man I would love that thing now. 
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Jun 13, 2010 21:44
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How hard is it to get a new ignition switch for a mid to late '60s bike? While cleaning out an old shed, I've come across a bike that my dad owned, and am considering fixing it up and using it for my daily 3 mile commute instead of my Jeep Wrangler. I understand that this wont be a small undertaking, but I've long since wanted to do a big project, and I think this might work for it. I haven't gotten the bike home yet, but I *think* it's a Honda C110. grnberet2b fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Jun 14, 2010 |
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Jun 14, 2010 00:49
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