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MrZig posted:The rear 2CT on my '89 GSXR 750 lasted 6300 miles of mostly straight. The front has another 2000 left. Sure it was a Road 2CT? Not a Power 2CT?
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Jun 14, 2010 08:31
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Sure it was a Road 2CT? Not a Power 2CT? Pilot Road 2's forsure.
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Jun 14, 2010 15:16
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MrZig posted:The rear 2CT on my '89 GSXR 750 lasted 6300 miles of mostly straight. The front has another 2000 left. i too just put a set of bt-023's on my SV650. i went and carved up the local mountain tonight and my mind was just blown at how well these tires stick, they put my old shinkos to absolute shame. I've had them for about 24 hours and put 150 miles on them, the last 50 of quite spirited riding too.
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Jun 20, 2010 08:09
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NipplesTheCat posted:i too just put a set of bt-023's on my SV650. i went and carved up the local mountain tonight and my mind was just blown at how well these tires stick, they put my old shinkos to absolute shame. I've had them for about 24 hours and put 150 miles on them, the last 50 of quite spirited riding too. The rear BT023 has been amazing sofar. Turn in is so good, and the feeling is very linear and there's no surprises. No sudden drop, just so.. flat and confidencey. I might be putting a front on soon.
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Jun 20, 2010 08:20
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What pressures do you guys usually run for riding in the twisties? I've had my tires at 28/32 for a while without really thinking about it too much, but I dunno if I can/should knock them down a bit more or not. and yeah, Shinko's are complete poo poo.
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Jun 21, 2010 04:18
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-Inu- posted:What pressures do you guys usually run for riding in the twisties? I've had my tires at 28/32 for a while without really thinking about it too much, but I dunno if I can/should knock them down a bit more or not. and yeah, Shinko's are complete poo poo. Which tires are you using ? I've run as low as 20/23 on michelins and as high as 31/35 on metzelers in the same bike, for the same use... Since you're talking twisties, i imagine you're in for some spirited riding. If so, how's the grip going ? Do you feel like you don't have enough grip or that the bike is heavy to turn ? Tire pressure depends on a lot of variables (the tipe of pavement, the power of your bike, the daily weather, how you ride, etc) so the best numbers come from experience. If the bike is running good as-is, try turning the pressure up or down a notch, see what happens and keep on experimenting...
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Jun 21, 2010 06:50
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BT-090's. That's probably a good idea, I'm pretty comfortable with my grip now and turnin is alright if not a little sluggish. Is there any reason to run the fronts higher than rears?
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Jun 21, 2010 06:54
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If you feel turning in a bit slugish, try uping the pressure a bit  And no, never run higher pressure on the front than the back. Every bike out there keeps the front lower for a reason (you need more grip in the front, you have less weight there, also traction blah blah blah), just don't mess with that.
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Jun 21, 2010 07:10
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Primo Itch posted:And no, never run higher pressure on the front than the back. Every bike out there keeps the front lower for a reason (you need more grip in the front, you have less weight there, also traction blah blah blah), just don't mess with that.
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Jun 21, 2010 07:43
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That's new to me... Probably something to do with how track tires warm up. Z3n or anybody else, any light on this ?
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Jun 21, 2010 15:54
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UserNotFound posted:What would you guys recommend if I was looking for something more durable for next time? I'm probably only putting down about 60hp, and although it is a sporty bike, I probably won't be dragging my knee on freeway ramps, let alone tracking it. Given that that people claim the powers are sticky enough for a 130+hp bike, I'd think there'd be something that might get me a few extra thousand miles out to put on at my next tire change? Modern sport touring tyres are awesome, and unless you have big power, will do anything up to and including track days without giving you the slightest bit of trouble. Ten years ago this was definitely not the case! On an M750 I would actually go for BT090 or Dunlop Alpha 10 for a sports / track tyre, and sports-touring rubber if you only ride on the roads. IMO modern mainstream sports rubber's designed to work on heavy, powerful sportsbikes, and doesn't necessarily work that well on lighter machines. As far as specific tyres, currently I'm using Pirelli's Angel ST on my Hornet (aka 599) and can't fault them for stability or grip. Bridgestone BT021 are also worth a look - the Angels are cheaper and I prefer Metzeler/Pirelli or Dunlop, so I went with them, but the 020s and 021s have been "reference" sport touring tyre for years now.
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Jun 21, 2010 15:57
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Primo Itch posted:That's new to me... Probably something to do with how track tires warm up. Z3n or anybody else, any light on this ? Nothing to do with warm up, just construction, dedicated track tires will have a very stiff carcass to allow them to run lower pressures. Now: This shouldn't be taken as saying "Lower is better for grips!", as tires work best when they are allowed to work in their correct temp range. For my 929, anything under 36 PSI in the rear Diablo Corsa 3 would cause the rear to go numb and squirmy after twisty abuse. It was at about right at 38 PSI, I ran 36/38 on those tires. Generally as a rule of thumb for street tires, though, you want the rear higher than the front. My baseline setting for a streetbike is going to be either 36/38 for commuting, or 34/36 for twisty use. Anything lower than that is generally just wasting your tires chasing grip you can't use on the street. But there is also a level of personal preference and comfort in there too, some people like lower PSIs, some people like higher ones. I've never had sliding issues with either tire running 36/38 on the twistys on sportbikes though.
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Jun 21, 2010 17:44
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Much 'preciated z3n. I'm going to try running higher pressures and see how it works out. Worst case I can always just drop them back down.
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Jun 21, 2010 18:26
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-Inu- posted:Much 'preciated z3n. I'm going to try running higher pressures and see how it works out. Worst case I can always just drop them back down. Exactly. Some experimentation within reason is a great way to learn more about your tires and what you prefer.
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Jun 21, 2010 18:51
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Primo Itch posted:That's new to me... Probably something to do with how track tires warm up. Z3n or anybody else, any light on this ? It was already covered but just as an example, the Dunlop D209GPAs I've been running at the track have a manufacturer's suggested cold pressure of 31psi front, 21psi rear. http://www.dunlopracing.com/Pressures.pdf
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Jun 21, 2010 20:00
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So, I was trying to do some tire research, because I just discovered that the tires on my new-to-me ninja are OLD. I checked out ninaj250.org, but I'd like some actual opinions, too, and honestly, don't really know what I'm looking for. I've got a naked ninja 250. I've been riding for a month, so I'm definitely still learning. I use it for commuting to work, but I want to be riding more often for practice (motorcycle camping is in my future). Nothing aggressive, but I am working on cornering and curves, so I want something that's really steady in turns. Also, I'm pretty poor. Motorcycling was not a good hobby to pick up. So I need to keep these cheap, but not "fall apart after 3000 miles and kill you" cheap. Suggestions?
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Jun 23, 2010 07:57
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modify_evolution posted:So, I was trying to do some tire research, because I just discovered that the tires on my new-to-me ninja are OLD. I checked out ninaj250.org, but I'd like some actual opinions, too, and honestly, don't really know what I'm looking for. Maxxis Promaxxxxxx(etc). http://www.maxxis.com/MotorcycleATV/Street.aspx
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Jun 23, 2010 12:26
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Pirelli Sport Demons are pretty much the standby for 250 tires. Spend a bit more on tires up front, save on crash expenses and tire bills in the long run.
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Jun 23, 2010 17:10
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Z3n posted:Pirelli Sport Demons are pretty much the standby for 250 tires. Spend a bit more on tires up front, save on crash expenses and tire bills in the long run. I love the Sport Demons on my 250, but my sample size of tires is exactly two different brands.
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Jun 23, 2010 18:52
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Question regarding oddball sizes. My brother picked up one of Nerobro's bikes off him as a project, a '79 GS425. It needs rubber, front is a 3.0-18 47S and the rear is 3.5-18 56S. Very few sites seem to sell tires in these types of sizes, does anyone know of a converter that would give me info on what metric tire sizes and types that would work well on the bike?
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Jun 24, 2010 02:31
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http://www.maxxis.com/MotorcycleATV/Motorcycle-Tire-School.aspx#motorcycle_tire_conversion_charts Ignore the front/rear nonsense; every chart I've seen insists that there's no such thing as a rear tire narrower than 4.5.
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Jun 24, 2010 04:08
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Z3n posted:Pirelli Sport Demons are pretty much the standby for 250 tires. Spend a bit more on tires up front, save on crash expenses and tire bills in the long run. Haven't tried the promax myself, but the supermax(maxxx, maxxxxxxxxx whatever) can lap very close to tyres costing 1/3 to 1/2 again as much. He's not pushing the performance envelope by his own admission, so if they're cheaper it will help him afford more seat time. For you of course the Pirelli (or a race intermediate  ) would be a better choice...
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Jun 24, 2010 10:42
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Saga posted:Haven't tried the promax myself, but the supermax(maxxx, maxxxxxxxxx whatever) can lap very close to tyres costing 1/3 to 1/2 again as much. He's not pushing the performance envelope by his own admission, so if they're cheaper it will help him afford more seat time. For you of course the Pirelli (or a race intermediate She My problem with cheap tires is that they usually wear a lot faster and have more inconsistent grip when they're out of the ideal operating range. And as a result they end up being a sort of 50/50 proposition...you pay less up front but you have to replace them more often. But this is just my general experience with cheaper tires (cheng shin, who owns maxxis), and not specifically with those tires. For street use I prefer to stick to major brands for street use as I've found that when I went with cheaper tires I had worse performance in varied conditions at a higher cost over time. Again, just my 2c. Tires are the one place that I hate to compromise as they're essentially the only thing keeping you upright.
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Jun 24, 2010 16:47
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Yeah, I think we're just going to go with the Sport Demons for Modify_Evolution's Ninja. The MT75 looked interesting, but it's smaller overall so we'd need a new rear sproket to maintain the gearing, and they'd lower the bike a bit. (Also, holy poo poo I can't wait to try the bike out with nimble tires.
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Jun 24, 2010 17:30
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Tsaven Nava posted:Yeah, I think we're just going to go with the Sport Demons for Modify_Evolution's Ninja. The MT75 looked interesting, but it's smaller overall so we'd need a new rear sproket to maintain the gearing, and they'd lower the bike a bit. Get it going faster so you can really crash it this time!  (don't wreck)
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Jun 24, 2010 17:40
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needknees posted:Get it going faster so you can really crash it this time! Don't encourage him. And as an aside, yes. I don't need my bike any lower. I may be a girl, but I have a 438954 inch inseam. As a beginner, I'm glad my bike is kind of short, so I can get a full foot on the ground, and some bent knee, so I have more leverage. But any lower, and my knees may just fall out of my legs.
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Jun 24, 2010 22:03
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Z3n posted:My baseline setting for a streetbike is going to be either 36/38 for commuting, or 34/36 for twisty use. Even when recommended pressures are 28-31ish?
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Jun 25, 2010 21:16
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My coworker has a 1998 Bandit 1200 which came stock with a 170 rear tire. Well, he just slapped on a 190 Dunlop Q2 on it. Is this as stupid as I think it is?
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Jun 25, 2010 21:23
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AncientTV posted:Even when recommended pressures are 28-31ish? Haha, that'll teach me to make these far reaching broad statements. That's my baseline for a modern bike that weighs 400 or more pounds and runs radial tires. For an older bike running bias plies, I'd say 30f/32r, and adjust from there depending on desired wear and usage. FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:My coworker has a 1998 Bandit 1200 which came stock with a 170 rear tire. Well, he just slapped on a 190 Dunlop Q2 on it. Is this as stupid as I think it is? Fuzzy, the bandit 1200 should have come stock with a 180 on the rear, not a 170, it has a 5.5 inch rear rim. Checking against dunlop's site for the Q2, the 190 will fit on the 5.5 inch rim, so he'll be ok http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/tirecatalog_tire.asp?id=108 Generally, he's not going to see any gain from it, as the wider tire will increase contact patch size, and if it's a 190/50 then it's going to steer a lot slower, although it may feel more stable as a result. Either way there's no safety issue from it.
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Jun 25, 2010 21:37
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Yep, yep. I know nothing. Turns out the tyres on my bike are 140/70 on the rear. I've got BT45s, I'm quite happy with them but is there anything else around for that size? Oh, and my friend's bike is exactly the same, but it has 130/70s. What's the difference and will it change much regards the handling? Someone has obviously changed it one way or the other at some point, I'm just trying to work out why.
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Jul 5, 2010 13:07
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Orange Someone posted:Yep, yep. I know nothing. Turns out the tyres on my bike are 140/70 on the rear. I've got BT45s, I'm quite happy with them but is there anything else around for that size? you can shoehorn modern tyres onto those rims, my buddys superfour is running bt-020s or bt021s the back is a 150 or a 160. he's noticed no handling issues and he flings that bike around.
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Jul 5, 2010 13:51
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This thread is too good to die. So, my rear lasertec is starting to show signs of wear, it has 5000km and probably only has 2 or 3 more, which is just over a month of riding. I want to go radial, but I can mount a radial tire in the rear with a bias-ply on the front or should I put another bias-ply now and wait for the next change, when the front is going away as well ? Also, asking radials : Only rear tires I can get in 150 here are the PR2, the Power One and the Angel. I'd rather go back to the michelins, so what setup should i be doing ? PR2 front and back for best value? PP2CT front and PR2 back for good grip and reasonable endurance ? Screw everything and go Power One front and back ? My concern with the PR2 is heating, since the bike weights only around 110 Kgs (240 pounds)... Will I be able to heat it properly?
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Sep 16, 2010 21:26
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You never mix and match radial and bias-ply tires.
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Sep 16, 2010 21:46
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Primo Itch posted:This thread is too good to die. I'd match PR2s front and rear. The PR2s are going to work better out of their ideal temp range than the power one will. Basically, less sport oriented tires are designed to be less sensitive to operating temperature, as they are expected to perform well even when relatively cold. That constraint isn't really there for sport tires. It's your Serow, right? What sort of riding are you going to be doing on it? If you really wanna toss it around, I'd go with the PP2CT front and the PR2 rear, although on a sumo style bike you can get away with just about any and all types of tires.
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Sep 16, 2010 22:19
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frozenpill posted:You never mix and match radial and bias-ply tires. I'll just throw a Sport Demon on the back them until the front is done. Z3n posted:I'd match PR2s front and rear. The PR2s are going to work better out of their ideal temp range than the power one will. Basically, less sport oriented tires are designed to be less sensitive to operating temperature, as they are expected to perform well even when relatively cold. That constraint isn't really there for sport tires. Yeah its the Serow. It's going to be 90% pavement, traveling some 400 miles (twisties, very very twisty twisties) every weekend plus everyday riding, some kart track fooling around and the occasional dirt road. I'm a dirt newbie, so tire choise doesn't make any difference here. My problem with the lasertecs is that i'm missing a little more front grip. The back stays planted, but i can feel the front very light in some situations, especially quick inversions and turn ins. Part of that is caused by the suspensions, that's why i've bought the YZ front end, but i'm quite sure even with the new front end it's still not going to be where I want it, and well, after the lasertecs/Sport Demon the only place to go is radial. The reason I thought about a front PP2CT is that since the bike is fairly lightweight and i'm more of a back tire destroyer I could probably still get a fair mileage out of it, with more front grip than the PR2 (which is probably already great grip, but hey, there's no such thing as too much grip). And in fact, the back PR2 is probably going to cost me less than the bias-ply, since it should last quite a bit more and costs only 1 1/2, maybe a little less, of what a SD costs. So when you factor the front tire cost in, i'll probably be paying the same for very superior tires. Primo Itch fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Sep 17, 2010 |
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Sep 17, 2010 01:41
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Are you typically really hard on rear tires? I got a shitload of miles out of my Diablo Supercorsas on my DRZ. If all of your riding is going to be pretty much twisty aggressive goodness, then gently caress it, just run the P1s front and rear. If you're going to be doing more commuting stuff, then I'd go with maybe a P1/2CT front, and a PR2 rear. If your sumo doesn't make a shitload of power, you should be able to get around 4-5k on a low HP sumo with proper suspension setup, tire pressures, etc. The difference in grip between the older BP tires and the newer radials is going to be incredible, regardless of how you slice it.
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Sep 17, 2010 01:50
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Yeah. I don't know what's wrong with me, but I go throw back tires like it's my job. Maybe I just developed an instict to rely more on them since the front of the serow has always been so flickery, maybe it's because of the hard (for the bike) take offs and the constant rear wheel sliding every time I park... Just to give you a number, I've eaten thru a rear Corsa 3 on the Buell in less than 3k. And I didn't do not even one burn-out! Commuting is an american problem I live in a fairly sized city (1,5milion) and in a kinda isolated part of town, and even on the days I have to move around a lot i'm not rolling more than 30km.Most of my mileage comes from going to the missus town every weekend, which is on twisty roads since she lives some 1,5km higher tham me and the road goes up and down a few times (  )The 4-5k number you're giving me is for the P1 ? Because if so I think i'll stick to the PP2CT/PR2, I can probably get some 7-9k out of a rear PR2, and probably something like that out of the PP2CT, which means i'll probably be spending half of the money on tires in the long run.
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Sep 17, 2010 02:15
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Yeah you could figure 4-5k on a lightweight, low HP bike running track tires. Sounds like the 2CT front and the PR2 rear is what you want.
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Sep 17, 2010 02:57
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It's time for new tires for my 2002 Yamaha-R6. The owner's manual recommends the following: Front - 120/60 ZR17 M/C (55W) Rear - 180/55 ZR17 M/C (73W) Michelin - Pilot SPORT B Dunlop - D207FJ/D207N What SHOULD I be putting on this bike? I use it for commuting/touring. I'm not a race track guy. Also, should I be okay with these stands for removing my tires? 
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Oct 23, 2010 13:52
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Crayvex posted:It's time for new tires for my 2002 Yamaha-R6. The owner's manual recommends the following: Pilot Road 2 is what you want. Absolutely amazing tire, great cornering grip for a sport touring tire and with the harder center they last for freakin ever. It's going to be very very tough to beat those for a sportbike that will never see the track (take your goddamn bike to the track).
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Oct 23, 2010 15:34
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