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incredibull posted:god just build a buggy It's like a JC Whitney ad, only with Rokmen stuff instead. I find it hard to believe that anyone that is going to spend that much coin on proprietary aftermarket stuff (the axles alone are probably pushing 10k) is going to restrict themselves to a factory Jeep chassis/body.
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Sep 30, 2010 15:43
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Philip J Fry posted:It's like a JC Whitney ad, only with Rokmen stuff instead. I find it hard to believe that anyone that is going to spend that much coin on proprietary aftermarket stuff (the axles alone are probably pushing 10k) is going to restrict themselves to a factory Jeep chassis/body. If I had the money I'd shove 10k in axles under my $2,800 Scout II. I want portals really really bad.
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Sep 30, 2010 15:50
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trouser chili posted:If I had the money I'd shove 10k in axles under my $2,800 Scout II. I want portals really really bad. Word, oh the ridiculous poo poo I'd do with money.
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Sep 30, 2010 16:16
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TheManWithNoName posted:gently caress. The Cherokee I was going to buy had a bent shift fork or whatever, and wouldn't go out of 4WD. Dealer said it was fixed. First thing I do is test out the 4WD and it won't go back to 2WD! Why say you fixed it if it wasn't? Maybe they were hoping I would forget to test it out? Shift forks suck rear end, the vacuum lines go out all the time. Its possible the light isn't going out because that is vacuum driven too and there's a leak. If you're looking for something you'll never have to work on this may not be the Jeep, but the entire system can be replaced for $180 worst case if you install a manual poo poo line.
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Oct 1, 2010 03:26
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giundy posted:Shift forks suck rear end, the vacuum lines go out all the time. Its possible the light isn't going out because that is vacuum driven too and there's a leak. I am not a car guy at all so minimal repairs would be best. The 4WD light did turn off, but it easy to tell it was still in 4WD when taking a turn. Glued to the road like Elmer. The other bad things on the inspection report, is this stuff pretty common for a nearly 10 year old Cherokee? Cooling system "could use changing" Battery & connections "battery load tests bad" Engine Seals "oil leaks" Rear Axle "needs fluid change" Shocks "fronts starting to leak" Exhaust System "intact but rusty"
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Oct 1, 2010 04:59
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TheManWithNoName posted:I am not a car guy at all so minimal repairs would be best. Sounds about right, Ya need a new battery. The 4.0l leaks, you'll drive yourself nutty tryin to stop it.
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Oct 1, 2010 05:44
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It's just lubricating the chassis for you.
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Oct 1, 2010 06:03
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Just a quick engine question that's been bugging me... I recently changed/upgraded the fuel injectors in my 4.0L to a set of 4-hole Bosch (high quality,flow-matched) and they work great - fuel economy has improved a little as well as throttle response and it even idles a bit smoother. But during ignition, it can sometimes take a few asthmatic cranks or fire up the millisecond that I turn the key from ON to START; whether it's already warm or not seems to make no difference. I have a Die Hard Platinum battery, and my old stock injectors never took more than one crank, no matter what the conditions. The biggest pain in this is that I love to use my alarm's remote start to get things nice and toasty on the way back from a long day of skiing or hiking, and the cold is coming. Because the fuel delivery sometimes isn't instant enough, the anti-grind kicks in to spare the starter and I end up having to manually start it anyway. Do I just have a slow, random leak somewhere? I don't see or smell any to speak of. This is driving me nuts. I'm going to pull the fuel rail again today, re-lube the o-rings and install everything again but I was just wondering if anyone else has ever run into this. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 14:21 on Oct 1, 2010 |
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Oct 1, 2010 14:17
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TheManWithNoName posted:Cooling system "could use changing" Flush it and see what happens. Check the engine codes and see if you get a temperature warning. You might need a thermostat - it's pretty common. Also cheap water pumps tend to have plastic fins that like to disintegrate, but I would think you would have noticed if that was out. quote:Battery & connections "battery load tests bad" New battery. If your electronics go wonky, check for bad grounds and corroded battery leads. quote:Engine Seals "oil leaks" Yep. Totally normal. quote:Rear Axle "needs fluid change" Not a bad idea to do anyway.  USE THE PROPER FRICTION MODIFIERS! quote:Shocks "fronts starting to leak" Really easy to change. quote:Exhaust System "intact but rusty" Feature meant to let your i4 sound like the v8. 
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Oct 1, 2010 15:22
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I have a 1997 Cherokee 4x4 with the not fulltime 4WD. If I wanted to put a slight lift on it what should I do? I don't want the ride to turn to poo poo either. I don't mind paying a little extra for quality parts. The truck has a ton of miles on it, so more comprehensive kits that replace old parts are fine with me. Also, looking for advice on a relatively inexpensive tire to go with this lift. The emphasis is on all-season on-road performance but especially in the winter. 31"? 33"? PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Oct 1, 2010 |
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Oct 1, 2010 16:34
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I'm looking at taking the plunge back into another wrangler. I owned a 93 TJ in high school but sold it because I was tired of the terrible ride and wet road performance (tire issue) as a daily driver. Anyway i'm thinking a newer TJ or LJ would be ideal but I'm having a hard time finding decent information about the space difference between the two. I see that it is 10" longer but some websites referred to that as cargo space. The reason I'm interested in the extra room is I'm 6'7" and will probably invest in the big boy mounts for the drivers seat to make it more comfortable. If I get the LJ will there be more room for this or perhaps more room in the back seat so it would still be possible to sit someone behind me, or is it just a few worthless inches and no one will fit in the back seat regardless.
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Oct 1, 2010 17:15
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In an LJ, the big boy mounts should allow the seat to be moved back farther than in a TJ, as the seat will hit the wheel arches before it reaches its end of travel in the TJ. (I haven't confirmed this, just heard it somewhere, so YMMV) A '93 Wrangler (YJ) is leaf sprung versus the TJ's coils. The TJ will ride better, especially with a soft suspension like from OME. However, its still a Jeep, so don't set your expectations all that high. The longer wheelbase of the LJ does make a difference as well, making the vehicle feel slightly less like it is actively trying to kill you. This is especially true once you start lifting and modifying the jeep. Honestly, you should really take a long test drive before you consider another Wrangler. You did sell your last one for a reason. Or perhaps consider a newer 07+ JK. It is another step more refined than the TJ, although arguably, less of what makes a jeep a "jeep".
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Oct 1, 2010 19:29
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PBCrunch posted:I have a 1997 Cherokee 4x4 with the not fulltime 4WD. If I wanted to put a slight lift on it what should I do? I don't want the ride to turn to poo poo either. I don't mind paying a little extra for quality parts. The truck has a ton of miles on it, so more comprehensive kits that replace old parts are fine with me. Im assuming you mean an XJ, so your magic numbers are 3" and 31". 3" lift is the highest you can lift without needing to extend any brake lines or adjust your steering and deal with drivetrain issues. 31" tires are the max you will fit under a 3" lift without rubbing as long as they are mounted on factory wheels. (though a small spacer will make sure the tires don't rub on the control arms and frame.) This is all ok unless you plan to do real offroading on trails, in which case you will want to probably go with 30" tires and some slight trimming on your fenders at 3" of lift. I put a Rough Country 3" lift with full leaf packs on my '01 Cherokee XJ and the ride actually improved pretty substantially. Most because I was replacing 130,000 mile shocks and springs, but it improved either way. As for tires, you can find tires from $115+ at 31". The more you pay the better the tire.
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Oct 1, 2010 20:21
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How do I fix my speedometer? Or do I just ride around with a GPS all the time to tell how fast I am really going?
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Oct 1, 2010 23:58
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PBCrunch posted:How do I fix my speedometer? Or do I just ride around with a GPS all the time to tell how fast I am really going? With 31" tires it's only going to be off a little bit--at 70mph on my speedo I'm actually going 75mph and it's not as bad with lower speeds. You can swap out the speedo gear in the transfer case though to have a perfectly accurate speedometer. The other thing to consider with big tires is the extra weight and force put on the axles. The bigger the tire the more power you'll lose from the engine. With the stock automatic 4 liter's 3.55 gear ratio I personally think 31" tires are as big as you want to go. With 33" tires you're going to want to re-gear to 4.58+ gears... and if you're re-gearing you might as well swap in a stronger axle and even locking diffs ($$$). Some people are perfectly happy with the power loss though, it really depends how you drive and how hilly your area is. With 31" tires on my stock geared automatic I find driving at 70mph on the freeway can be annoying as the transmission has to downshift frequently for hills. I'll put up with it but at some point I'd like to go to 4.11 gears.
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Oct 2, 2010 00:10
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I've been chasing down a short in my '01 XJ for two weeks and it's starting to drive me crazy. I'm really not great at electrical gremlins and would love some advice from people who have more experience than me. The problem is the passenger side headlight low beam went out (high beam works fine). I replaced both headlights, which of course didn't fix the issue at all. I opened the fuse box in the passenger kick panel to find the #5 fuse blown, which is for the passenger headlight. I replaced the fuse and the headlight worked again for a little while before the fuse blew again. After doing a ton of research and reading on XJ forums, it's pretty obvious that it is a short in the system somewhere. Most forum posts say to check the trailer hitch wiring, all the bulbs, headlight switch, headlight plugs, and everything short of ripping the entire chassis apart just to fix one little worn wire, which I've pretty much already done. So does anyone have any advice? I bought a multimeter, but for some reason (probably out of simple frustration with the issue), I can't seem to get a usable reading from the meter. I'm posting to see if anyone happens to know a trick or had this happen before and what would be a good place to look for a grounded wire.
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Oct 2, 2010 03:59
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BoostCreep posted:I've been chasing down a short in my '01 XJ for two weeks and it's starting to drive me crazy. I'm really not great at electrical gremlins and would love some advice from people who have more experience than me. Best bet is the multifunction switch. If the XJ was wired anything like the TJ, Chrysler decided "Who needs relays?", ran the headlight power directly through the switch using materials barely meeting minimum spec, and acted surprised when the whole poo poo melted. Some times the contacts inside the switch also like to become corroded - which can be resolved with a disassembly and cleaning rather than a complete switch replacement as in the melted mess scenario.
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Oct 2, 2010 13:55
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:LCOG is where its at. I removed the fender flares on mine and there are about 10 holes where the bolts went in and these other larger holes. How did you manage to hide those up perfectly? What you have is my goal but I can't fathom how to get there.
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Oct 2, 2010 18:16
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Shubs posted:I removed the fender flares on mine and there are about 10 holes where the bolts went in and these other larger holes. How did you manage to hide those up perfectly? What you have is my goal but I can't fathom how to get there. I think he trimmed the space where the flares were. Nice LJ by the way, Tossed_Salad_Man!
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Oct 2, 2010 19:17
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Steiler Drep posted:I think he trimmed the space where the flares were. I'd like to do this myself. What are the tools I would need or should I outsource to an expert? Edit: It also looks like you removed the rear wheel well? Shubs fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Oct 2, 2010 |
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Oct 2, 2010 19:57
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My Comanche is behaving rather... disconcertingly. A month ago or so it died while in my driveway. I chalked it up to a bad CPS because my truck had been displaying all the symptoms of having a faulty one for a while, so I went along my way without a vehicle. Today I went out to verify a bad CPS with my multimeter, and it checked out okay. So, I started poking around various bits of wiring, until the thought struck me to jiggle about the wiring harness going into the ECU. Low and behold, it sputtered to life with a cloud of smoke on the first try. I took it for a drive, and it ran just fine. I'm not sure if this has a question in it or if its just a rant, but I do know that this is worrying behavior. Should I stop worrying and just drive it, or start to think about looking into wiring harness replacement? Summary: -1987 Jeep Comanche 4.0 -Crank/No start issue resolved after jiggling wires -Am I looking at a possible wiring harness replacement to make it reliable?
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Oct 2, 2010 21:08
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poo poo that aint mine. Mine is this one: 2 inch OME lift, and adjustable front/rear trac bar coming and I'll run 285s. Should be able to do quite a bit that way.
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Oct 2, 2010 21:59
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PBCrunch posted:How do I fix my speedometer? Or do I just ride around with a GPS all the time to tell how fast I am really going? It's been a while, but I think that year XJ still used interchangeable speedo pinions. If so, any dealer parts counter can order them and the parts guide lists the correction factors. When I had to replace a chewed up one on my ZJ (which used XJ pinions), I think it was like $8. Easy to swap, too.
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Oct 2, 2010 21:59
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Oh and I recently did this:
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Oct 2, 2010 22:02
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Shubs posted:I'd like to do this myself. What are the tools I would need or should I outsource to an expert? (I'm not a native english speaker so some terms I might not know that well) The way I'd do it is take a wheel-saw into it and later edge it down by sanding it. This isn't that hard, although you DO need to be REALLY careful as it's pretty much irreversible, unless you start soldering panels back to it. If you're already happy with the clearance you've got, I'd say avoid all this and simply fill it up with some filler material and paint over it, or look into purchasing some corner panel protection. Working on your car is pretty fun, but it's not so much when you really screw something up. If you want your rig to stay street legal, I'd look into either building or purchasing some tube fenders. I'm planning up some for my YJ as the stock fenders cause lots of rubbing on my wheels, and I don't want to go with TJ fenders because of their unmatched colors (like the Sahara look a lot). Anyways, good luck! If you're not comfortable taking a saw to your medium of transportation, better take it to a body repair shop or similar and specify exactly what you'll want. They are more experienced and can actually make what you want look as if it was stock.
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Oct 2, 2010 22:15
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Not a Jeep, but Jeep-related... Finished the rebuild on that junk trailer I have. Started with this cheap Craigslist purchase:  Ended with this:  The boards on the sides are ramps I stuck in there to load a buddies Quad. I still have to fab up a spare tire carrier on the front, but other than that, it is where I want it for now.
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Oct 2, 2010 23:40
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I've been wanting to make a CJ adventure trailer with a fold down gate and rear fenders, but just base if off a cheap trailer. I figured that would be a fun project some day.
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Oct 3, 2010 04:04
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giundy posted:I've been wanting to make a CJ adventure trailer with a fold down gate and rear fenders, but just base if off a cheap trailer. I figured that would be a fun project some day. I have a picture folder full of offroad trailers. This is one of my favorites. Feel free to PM me with your email address if you want some more.  If I was going to build it myself I would go for this style. 
Atticus_1354 fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Oct 3, 2010 |
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Oct 3, 2010 04:18
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DILLIGAF posted:Not a Jeep, but Jeep-related... That's amazing. Those don't even look like the same trailer. I'm impressed!
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Oct 3, 2010 05:55
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OK so I want to lift my 99 XJ Cherokee three inches to fit 31" tires. I want to use Bilstein 5100-series shocks designed for a 3" lift. What is a good quality (ie, fits properly without headaches) lift kit without shocks that will deliver good ride quality? I take it the kit will consist of two new coil springs, some leafs to add in the back, and a set of front control arms? It looks like most lift kits come with shocks. Is that just the way it is? Considering General Grabber AT2 31x10.5-15 tires. I have had several sets of Continental/General tires on a number of vehicles and I have always been happy with them. I am looking for a cool-looking tire that will get good traction in the snow and not punish with poor ride or a ridiculous amount of noise. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Oct 3, 2010 |
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Oct 3, 2010 18:30
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Atticus_1354 posted:I have a picture folder full of offroad trailers. This is one of my favorites. Feel free to PM me with your email address if you want some more.
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Oct 3, 2010 21:49
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InitialDave posted:Doesn't the USA have an equivalent to the UK Sankey? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_trailer
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Oct 3, 2010 22:17
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Other than rust, what issues should I be looking at prior to buying a CJ5?
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Oct 3, 2010 22:29
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You fuckers are kiling me with the trailers. Goddamn I want one NOW. Like last week now.
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Oct 3, 2010 22:32
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is there a place to store the spare tire on a 2000 jeep cherokee sport besides the trunk area?
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Oct 4, 2010 00:56
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Fatty Patty posted:is there a place to store the spare tire on a 2000 jeep cherokee sport besides the trunk area? The Roof!! You can also get a carrier/bumper if you have $900 laying around: http://www.rockhard4x4parts.com/XJ-rearbumper.html Roof:  link to the piece: http://www.rockratz.com/tcr1x.html edit: Links
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Oct 4, 2010 01:15
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Picking up a 1989 Jeep Wrangler. Needs work, but runs great! Got treated like poo poo by PO
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Oct 4, 2010 01:50
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:You fuckers are kiling me with the trailers. Goddamn I want one NOW. Like last week now. Look around here. It is a good forum with good info. http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/index.php
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Oct 4, 2010 02:35
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Slow is Fast posted:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_trailer They can be had fairly inexpensively too. http://www.govliquidation.com/auction/endecaSearch?cmd=keyword&N=0&Ntk=P_Category_Id&Ntt=7588&category1_munged=7588
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Oct 4, 2010 03:32
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n0tqu1tesane posted:They can be had fairly inexpensively too. Yeah the 101's are great trailers for jeeps. It would make a good starting chassis for an "adventure" trailer. I'd avoid the 3/4 ton trailers unless you got a deuce, They're wider than a freakin' hmmwv and a bear to drive one off road. There was a big batch of brand new M1102's up on surplus last week, I wanted to get one for my H1, 10 of them wound up selling for $1600-2200 which is a good buy considering they go for 5K in military collector circles and 8K new. A friend who deals a lot with surplus told me to hold off as there's a few big batches coming up for DRMO over the next few months so hopefully I can snag one for around $1500. The cheap ones were missing the pintle hitch which isn't a big deal to source so I may pick out one of those and bid on that while someone overpays for a complete unit. A friend got an M1101 for $150. But it was in Hawaii, the shipping and logistics will probably push the price up to buying one on the mainland.
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Oct 4, 2010 04:22
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