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GanjamonII posted:Part of the reason I'm asking is cause I'm torn 50/50 between a VFR 800 or similar sports tourer (which is cheaper for full coverage than my SV???) and a CBR/GSXR/ninja 600 SS bike cause they just look so insanely fun. Problem is if I get full coverage on a 600 my insurance will go up 200+%, so tempted to just get liability on a ~4-5k bike but it just doesn't sit quite right with me for some reason..  
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Feb 21, 2011 03:03
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-Inu- posted:No reason you can't have fun on a VFR Which reminds me, I really want a loving VFR400.
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Feb 21, 2011 04:14
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Z3n posted:Anything of the appropriate weight is fine for street use. Half of them don't actually have the viscosity they claim anyways. I've seen a comprehensive chart floating around with the measured viscosity of fork oils and you're right: a lot aren't anywhere near what they advertise. Retsalb posted:Anything that has the right viscosity, pressure and temperature requirements and is compatible with your forks materials (metals/seals/gaskets) will do. I'm looking at changing the damping characteristics of the current forks. I've been told they are underdamped and am playing around with dialing them in. Plus I've got a few seasons on the current fluid and it's probably getting close to played out with the poo poo I put my bike through. No leaks here! I believe the OEM Showa SS8 fluid I put back in them is dino based, as is the new stuff I bought over the weekend.
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Feb 21, 2011 07:04
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BlackMK4 posted:Which reminds me, I really want a loving VFR400. The 400s are OK if you're with other 400s, but as I understand you're pretty quick, you'd probably get bored with being held up in the corners and constantly blitzed down the straights. Even when you go right round the outside of a 1000 (or hell, a recent 120 crank hp 600), they'll still be back past you halfway down the straight. More usual is having someone's back wheel reversing towards you as you approach the apex, which is just a "fuuuuuuck youuuuuuuuuu" experience after the initial amusement wears off. You basically have to pass them in the first half of the corner or you won't have enough drive to make the pass stick. Stock-ish 400s unfortunately make an SV650 look like a cheater bike. The front end geometry of the i4 versions at least is also pretty 80s-tastic. They don't feel like your average modern sportsbike until you're on the throttle at full lean. That said, the sheer plant-your-knee and go simplicity is pretty cool - it's like riding a minimoto in terms of lower limb to tarmac interface opportunities.
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Feb 21, 2011 15:27
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I am buying a motorcycle. Well, I’m taking a safety class and then another safety class and THEN if I don’t think I’m going to kill myself I’m buying a motorcycle. The plan is to use it for road trips, starting with short 2-3 hour trips and working up to riding all day and camping out of my saddlebags. Conventional wisdom is that you need a larger bike for long distances and carrying poo poo, but conventional wisdom is also that beginners need a smaller bike. I don’t particularly want to buy one and have to sell the drat thing in less than a year to “upgrade”. Also I am not big. 5’7”/125lbs. Am I really stuck with a teeny bike? I know I can’t handle a 2000cc 800lb monster (as much as I think they are awesome), but is something in the 500cc range really going to kill me in five minutes even if I’m not stupid and keep it at moderate speeds? (I do not go fast. Fast SCARES THE PISS OUT OF ME. But just because the bike CAN go fast doesn’t mean I HAVE to go fast, does it?)
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Feb 22, 2011 08:20
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Knots posted:The plan is to use it for road trips, starting with short 2-3 hour trips and working up to riding all day and camping out of my saddlebags. You're correct in thinking that the conventional wisdom is incorrect here. I've seen trip reports of week+ long journeys undertaken on everything from a Honda CT110 (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=460631) to z3n's brilliant idea of going a thousand miles (I think?) on a DRZ400sm. It really comes down to what you want to ride. Short of a 50cc pocket-bike, most anything can be adapted and altered to fit a tourer's needs. However, that's not to say that there aren't bikes that're better suited than others. It would be easier to make recommendations if you post up some bikes you were thinking about, as far as style, seating position, and capabilities go (can safely reach highway speeds, sporty enough for backroad thrashes, comfortable enough for superslabbing down the highway, etc.). And as far as the last question goes, it's best to think in terms of horsepower and not displacement. An 1800cc cruiser can, and usually will be, much slower than a 600cc supersport. Weight and engine characteristics have a lot to do with power, not just displacement. 70hp is widely accepted as the upper limit of HP for newer riders, and only then if you're responsible and not prone to squiddy tendencies  edit: For what it's worth, I started out on a Ninja 500, and while it had enough power for me to drive around like my pants were on fire, it definitely was not insanely overpowered or anything. AncientTV fucked around with this message at 08:47 on Feb 22, 2011 |
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Feb 22, 2011 08:43
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Knots posted:Conventional wisdom is that you need a larger bike for long distances and carrying poo poo, but conventional wisdom is also that beginners need a smaller bike. I don’t particularly want to buy one and have to sell the drat thing in less than a year to “upgrade”. These guys made it clear in 1994 that you don't need a big bike to do a big journey: http://www.tokyotolondon.com/ . There is so much more to a big trip than the bike, so don't buy one on the basis that you're 'going to do a trip someday'. that means we come back to beginner bikes and why the need for distinction, margin of error, versatility, etc.
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Feb 22, 2011 16:02
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I don't get you motorcycle camper types. The last thing I want to do after spending hours and hours in the saddle is sleep at a campsite. There are numerous cheap hotels out there. Do your back a favor and sleep on a bed. You can tour on anything. I went from Detroit to Nashville on a Yamaha-R6. 
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Feb 22, 2011 16:42
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So when I have my BMW K75 running on the centerstand with the transmission in neutral, the rear wheel spins, it can be made to stop spinning with my hand relatively easily, is this normal?
infraboy fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Feb 22, 2011 |
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Feb 22, 2011 20:18
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infraboy posted:So when I have my BMW K75 running on the centerstand with the transmission in neutral, the rear wheel spins, it can be made to stop spinning with my relatively easily, is this normal? That's just drag on the clutch from the oil, it's perfectly normal.
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Feb 22, 2011 20:49
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wilkenm posted:I am now the happy owner of a new 2011 Triumph Street Triple R. Congrats, fellow LA triumph buddy. Mine is in shambles right now, but once the new one gets chosen, let's ride sometime.
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Feb 22, 2011 21:01
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Even if it's a dry clutch?
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Feb 22, 2011 21:01
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Crayvex posted:I don't get you motorcycle camper types. The last thing I want to do after spending hours and hours in the saddle is sleep at a campsite. There are numerous cheap hotels out there. Do your back a favor and sleep on a bed. It's cheaper, more adventurous and sleeping on a mat with a sleeping bag is comfortable enough since I don't have old rickety joints. So there. 
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Feb 22, 2011 21:32
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Crayvex posted:I don't get you motorcycle camper types. The last thing I want to do after spending hours and hours in the saddle is sleep at a campsite. There are numerous cheap hotels out there. Do your back a favor and sleep on a bed.
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Feb 22, 2011 21:42
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Crayvex posted:I don't get you motorcycle camper types. The last thing I want to do after spending hours and hours in the saddle is sleep at a campsite. There are numerous cheap hotels out there. Do your back a favor and sleep on a bed. Also, my sleeping bag isn't covered in other people's semen.
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Feb 22, 2011 21:42
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MotoMind posted:Also, my sleeping bag isn't covered in other people's semen. I'd just like to point out he doesn't speak for all of us...
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Feb 22, 2011 21:50
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Well that's also a kind of adventure I guess.
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Feb 22, 2011 22:20
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Knots posted:I am buying a motorcycle. Well, I’m taking a safety class and then another safety class and THEN if I don’t think I’m going to kill myself I’m buying a motorcycle. sv650!
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Feb 22, 2011 22:52
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Dial M for MURDER posted:I'd just like to point out he doesn't speak for all of us... Tsaven alt account spotted
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Feb 22, 2011 23:38
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Knots posted:I am buying a motorcycle. Well, I’m taking a safety class and then another safety class and THEN if I don’t think I’m going to kill myself I’m buying a motorcycle. XT225, cheap as hell, capable of highway speeds, great little trail bike good stock racks for putting a bit of camping gear on it. Low seat height. When you get up to doing multi-day trips or longer portions of interstate you may want to change to a higher displacement bike or just ride more in Mexico or other countries where people travel at a lower rate of speed.
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Feb 23, 2011 00:27
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Saga posted:Tsaven alt account spotted Haha, whoa there! That there is fighting words if I remember his story right.
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Feb 23, 2011 01:23
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I bought a '91 Bandit 400 last summer and rode it occasionally. I've had a blast with it, but I have a problem with how loud its muffler is. I hope this isn't sacrilege to bring up, but is there a relatively cheap way to quiet it down? Its got an aftermarket muffler on it of course, pictured below: .jpg) Click here for the full 800x600 image. I emailed Yoshimura with pictures asking if they could I.D. it but they said it was old enough they didn't have any data on it. I know I could try to find a stock exhaust and then get it re-jetted, but is there a simpler (cheaper) way? I've seen inserts available for some of Yoshi's off-road mufflers to get them street legal, but is it possible something like that exists for mine?
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Feb 23, 2011 07:38
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You can certainly use a generic insert, secured by drilling the tip for a little bolt. Try searching for "DB killer". Honestly, the steel Yosh USA cans, at least of that generation, tended to be heavier than the stockers and produce an inferior power curve. You would be losing precisely nothing putting any road legal used e-bay can on that bike, including an original Suzook item if you can find one. oXDemosthenesXo posted:I bought a '91 Bandit 400 last summer and rode it occasionally. I've had a blast with it, but I have a problem with how loud its muffler is.
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Feb 23, 2011 11:25
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:I bought a '91 Bandit 400 last summer and rode it occasionally. I've had a blast with it, but I have a problem with how loud its muffler is. Have you more pics of that bandit? i think i recognise it from the old Banditalley forums. Id advise you to repack the exhaust, all you have to do is drill out those rivets on the ends and take off the end caps. I did on my SV and it made a big difference. If thats not enough then get a dB killer insert. I really cant stress enough that if this bike is running ok (apart from being loud) then leave the carbs the gently caress alone.
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Feb 23, 2011 13:06
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Quick query in case we have anyone with recent Honda knowledge. My C-ABS Hornet (07) has been laid up for a couple of weeks while I was in France snowboarding. Riding it to work the ABS warning light on the speedo (the one which comes on under 5mph) is coming on apparently at random for a few seconds and then going off again. The bike stops fine, although the front pads are nearly done. Anyone know if this is a feature or a bug? It seems "random", so I assumed it was an electrical issue. But not sure if it's a recognised issue with Honda ABS (this will be the C-ABS as used on the Blackbird, VFR etc. and maybe the last us-model "599"(?)), or an indication of a specific problem (i.e. does it suggest a particular failure mode).
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Feb 23, 2011 13:30
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Some questions from a soon-to-be bike rider. How well do leather jackets cope in the situations where you have to ride in rain wearing one? And how well do bikes themselves cope with rain? When I get a bike I'll have to be leaving it out in the open.
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Feb 23, 2011 14:33
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A bike is fine sitting out in the rain, but for your peace of mind you probably want to buy a cover. They're not very expensive. As for the jacket I don't know, it depends on the leather. If it's a real riding jacket e.g. not Wilson leathers it should do fine. If it's going to be a habit you should get something that is waterproof. Otherwise the occasional shower is going to be a nuisance, but the jacket isn't going to fall apart or anything.
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Feb 23, 2011 15:22
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Don Music posted:Some questions from a soon-to-be bike rider. Yeah, if you're stopped under a tropical downpour for an hour or touring on a highway/motorway at 80mph for an entire day, get out the paddles (metaphorically and not the up poo poo creek kind) for any non-rainproof leathers. If you're riding through drizzle at 60mph for half an hour, no effect at all. Hang it up somewhere dry and it's fine. I have a half-and-half jacket but usually use my leather trousery bits for all but the very heaviest and shittiest rainy commutes.
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Feb 23, 2011 16:14
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I have a leather jacket and pants (from Halvarssons) that are advertised as waterproof and have a membrane inside. I can ride through the monsoon, the leather gets soaked and heavy but I'm dry on the inside. Mostly. Some drops some through the neck, some parts of the arm is wearing and the fly also leaks leaving me with a rather embarrassing wet spot.
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Feb 23, 2011 16:30
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Leather loses some of its strength when it gets wet and re-dries. I would recommend owning a waterproof outer layer if you don't like textiles. A proper rainsuit will have no leaks.
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Feb 23, 2011 17:50
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echomadman posted:Have you more pics of that bandit? i think i recognise it from the old Banditalley forums. Sadly I don't have any pictures of it other than that. I'm in Washington State if that helps, and the rest of the bike is painted that same color. I'll see what I can do about repacking the exhaust and getting an insert. Believe me, I know all too well not to mess with the carbs...
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Feb 24, 2011 05:35
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infraboy posted:Even if it's a dry clutch? "Drag on the clutch" is wrong. In neutral, the clutch is engaged. It's drag of the fluid in the transmission on the gears as they spin near each other.
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Feb 24, 2011 19:25
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GanjamonII posted:What do you all think of full coverage vs liability for bikes? I have an SV and it costs me 80$ a month for full coverage with uninsured motorist etc, but the deductible is $1000 and honestly Im starting to wonder about the worth. I've already dropped it once and done < 1000$ damage to it, so unless I completely write the thing off I'm not going to really ever claim it (the bike is worth about 3k) and if I write it off completely then I figure I wont really care about the bike cause chances are I'll be hospitalized for a while anyway.. I think it depends on A: the bike in question, B: how much parts likely to be damaged in a tip over/drop/minor hit and run accident will cost, and C: how much your insurance costs are. For me, it's worth carrying full coverage on my ST1300. While I have tip over bars, there is still the possibility of damaging a sidebag. In addition, since I commute on the bike (sport tourers make great daily commuters, btw) and park in lots and garages, there's always a chance that someone could hit the bike, knock it over, or both. Oh yeah, and I might drop it again. Replacement sidebag covers (the part that's paint matched to the bike) run $350+ from various online dealers, and that's not including things like locks or hinges, or anything else that could potentially be damaged. God forbid the back half of the bag is damaged, that's another $350+. Adding full coverage with a $250 deductible was not much more than just basic coverage, so for me it made sense.
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Feb 24, 2011 22:02
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I want a rear rack for my Versys to strap stuff to. I want to be able to ride 2 up but still carry camping stuff. The only racks I've found are small racks designed for boxes, but I don't want to drop a few hundred on a rack mount and box (and I'm not sure I need it). I just need a simple, wider-than-average rack that will hold some gear. I've searched all over. Am I basically SOL, or is there something stupid I'm missing?
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Feb 24, 2011 23:04
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How crappy are twenty-five dollar handlebars compared to hundred dollar handlebars for the average road rider? I imagine if you go to race tracks, or do crazy stunts on your bike, you probably want to be confident your handlebars are up to snuff, but is it necessary for someone whose most likely encounter is a pothole?
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Feb 25, 2011 00:44
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What, specifically, are you looking at? Are they name brand?
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Feb 25, 2011 01:04
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A cheap bar will bend and break more in a crash, what could result in more damage to the bike... But it's one of those things that you can't really know until it happens. I've always used cheap bars on my bikes, but my bike is slow and light. Now that i've put the YZ front end in the Serow and it has fatbar clamps I decided to go with a medium priced fatbar, mainly because there are no cheap fatbars... :p What bike you have ?
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Feb 25, 2011 01:44
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PestiferousTrollop posted:How crappy are twenty-five dollar handlebars compared to hundred dollar handlebars for the average road rider? I imagine if you go to race tracks, or do crazy stunts on your bike, you probably want to be confident your handlebars are up to snuff, but is it necessary for someone whose most likely encounter is a pothole? They're going to be fine. Bars only really matter on MX/sumo/race bikes.
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Feb 25, 2011 01:45
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Primo Itch posted:A cheap bar will bend and break more in a crash, what could result in more damage to the bike... 82 GS 450. Which is to say I'm looking to transition from goofy 80's UJM bars to something with less rise, less pull back, and 30 or so inches wide. Everyone has something close to what I am looking for from bikemaster at 25 bucks, renthal at 60, and flanders at about 100. Flanders seem pretty silly unless I am missing something, but is their going to be a noticable difference in quality and comfort between bikemaster cheapos and renthal price area stuff. I don't really know many of the brands either, is renthal decent or lovely, who compares to them, etc? And I might as well ask, since the seat on this thing is goofy and torn up, how difficult is making a seat, or fabricating safe mounts for another seat? Would rather have a very different style of seat, and I'm not sure how to go about that.
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Feb 25, 2011 02:23
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I'd buy renthal but I was a loyal fan of their dirtbike bars. Bikemaster stuff can be a little sketchy. It probably won't matter that much, Renthals might be a little flashier than bikemaster.
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Feb 25, 2011 02:52
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