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State farm offers multiline discounts for taking out multiple lines of insurance with them. When insuring older bikes with them I have had rates go down rather than up thanks to the additional discounts. I'd never buy from a company that didn't offer multiline discounts.
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Mar 4, 2011 18:04
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What can I expect to pay for a full face helmet? What separates the cheaper helmets that still meet DOT and Snell standards from a $400 helmet that meets the same standards?
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Mar 4, 2011 18:41
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Fifty Three posted:What can I expect to pay for a full face helmet? What separates the cheaper helmets that still meet DOT and Snell standards from a $400 helmet that meets the same standards? I think the separation is mostly features/comfort.
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Mar 4, 2011 18:49
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Fifty Three posted:What can I expect to pay for a full face helmet? What separates the cheaper helmets that still meet DOT and Snell standards from a $400 helmet that meets the same standards? From the bottom end to the mid-range and upper mid-range helmets, there are very often (though not always) meaningful difference in shell design and composition. Top quality shells with complex composite structures and lightweight materials versus moulded plastic shells with a plain Styrofoam layer. From upper mid-range to the top end, many brands' models will differ meaningfully only in venting options. In some brands there will also be some shell differences or bling materials - e.g. the HJC carbon shell helmets. Read about each brand's offerings and you will typically be able to see whether you're being sold a "cheap" shell at a premium price (Shoei are bastards at this IIRC, although you can't fault the quality for a given level of shell technology), or conversely whether you're getting a shell that's the same tech as the company's best poo poo, but without a couple of vents and a blingtastic paint scheme (Arai's - old? - Quantum range or my Shark RSX being examples. Then I would look at the SHARP ratings to see how your shortlist performs. Shark, aside from great materials and finish and great price, seem to produce helmets that peform very well, with a huge array of graphical options. I used to be an Arai fan (even had an RX7XX, which is loving expensive), but having bought a Shark to replace my old Quantum, I'm sticking with the French brand. Also, while you may get different opinions on this, for security of fit, only consider a D-ring helmet - nothing with a press-button (seat belt style) thingy.
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Mar 4, 2011 21:41
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Saga posted:Top quality shells with complex composite structures and lightweight materials versus moulded plastic shells with a plain Styrofoam layer. I thought even the top-dollar helmets were still basically the same styrofoam inside that they use for packing material (which is the important part that's actually protecting your brain)?
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Mar 4, 2011 21:56
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One of the things they teach in the MSF is that the differences between a $100 helmet vs a $1000 full face helmet, isn't really protection. There are different standards certain helmets hold up to, which may add value, but ultimately a new full face helmet is a safe place to be if you go budget or break the bank. Don't concern yourself with spending $1,000,000 on a lid. I bought a $160 HJC for my first helmet, and have been rocking Scorpion EXO's ever since, all for $99 (on sale), and they have been amazing.
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Mar 4, 2011 22:06
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My Shoei RF1100 is falling apart after 6 or 7 months, I'm kinda pissed.
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Mar 4, 2011 23:11
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BlackMK4 posted:My Shoei RF1100 is falling apart after 6 or 7 months, I'm kinda pissed. The best thing about getting a helmet for under $100 is that you'd be saying right now "hey I got 6 or 7 months out of this thing before it started to fall apart; not bad!"
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Mar 4, 2011 23:18
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The most important thing for helmets is fit. If it doesn't fit and can move around on your head, hot spots or has void areas, you're not getting all the protection that you should be getting.
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Mar 4, 2011 23:21
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Z3n posted:The most important thing for helmets is fit. If it doesn't fit and can move around on your head, hot spots or has void areas, you're not getting all the protection that you should be getting. Does that mean I can keep buying my $130 GMAX helmets because they fit like a glove?
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Mar 4, 2011 23:38
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I managed to strip the head on a chain guard bolt on my DRZ. Any suggestions? I wanted to take it off to make it easier to remove some material for a 16t sprocket... I may just go buy a dremel and cut it in place.
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Mar 4, 2011 23:41
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SaNChEzZ posted:Does that mean I can keep buying my $130 GMAX helmets because they fit like a glove? If they make you happy. I like helmets that are really neutral at speed, which is the big selling point of the Suomys for me. Plus, yaknow, bashing my head into the ground and not getting a concussion was good too. quote:I managed to strip the head on a chain guard bolt on my DRZ. Any suggestions? I wanted to take it off to make it easier to remove some material for a 16t sprocket... I may just go buy a dremel and cut it in place. Dremel the head of the bolt down, hit it with a punch to loosen it up. The ramps got stolen out of my truck 
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Mar 5, 2011 00:54
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BlackMK4 posted:My Shoei RF1100 is falling apart after 6 or 7 months, I'm kinda pissed. What do you mean falling apart? It should still be under warranty so take it back.
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Mar 5, 2011 03:31
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UncleSkunk posted:I managed to strip the head on a chain guard bolt on my DRZ. Any suggestions? I wanted to take it off to make it easier to remove some material for a 16t sprocket... I may just go buy a dremel and cut it in place. Unless it's a screw that you can use an impact driver on, your best bet is dremeling out a slot in the head of the bolt that you can then use a flathead screwdriver on. Then replace the bolt, obviously, because that's pretty ghetto.
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Mar 5, 2011 03:36
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Kyon posted:What do you mean falling apart? It should still be under warranty so take it back. The liner that clips in behind the head on both sides constantly comes out, the helmet whistles from around the visor seal, and the visor mechanism isn't really solid (lots of play). The cheek pads also have compressed a lot so it's looser than I would prefer - I wear a size small. If I had the money I would buy a different brand. 
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Mar 5, 2011 |
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Mar 5, 2011 04:18
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Hi guys, bought my first bike today (08 xr125). The engine revs increase when I turn the wheel all the way to the right. Google suggests something about a cable being too tight/being pulled but I'm a complete bike newbie so I don't know what the story is.
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Mar 5, 2011 13:40
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Frankston posted:Hi guys, bought my first bike today (08 xr125). The throttle cable's probably binding up somewhere. The throttle tube, which is the thing wot you twist, will have at least one, possibly two cables attached to it, which function basically like bicycle brake cables - there's an inner twisted steel cable and a plastic-covered hollow outer cable. At the other end, the inner cables go around the throttle on your carb / injector (or just go into the top of a carb and raise/lower a slide). As you twist the throttle, the cables transfer the rotation to the throttle on the carb, allowing more mixture into the cylinder. Basically, turning the bars is rotating one of those cables. Check the routing of the cables to find out where the problem is. On those bikes the cables probably route along the "top tube" under the tank. You could have a cable pinching, a replacement cable that's the wrong length or a maladjusted cable (it probably has adjuster screws at the throttle end - check your manual - and there is supposed to be a few mm of slack in the throttle, which may be missing in your case). e: congrats!
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Mar 5, 2011 14:50
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Or maybe since it's when the bars are to the right, there's too much slack? Like its pushing the cable or something.
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Mar 5, 2011 18:37
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When installing handlebars that don't have any knurling where you clamp them, should one get them knurled somehow, file them a bit to make them rough, or is it just safe to clamp down on smooth metal? Once again, this is a casual street bike. Also, I have grip tape sitting around, the sort used on bicycle handlebars, is a couple layers of the stuff acceptable for the clutch side, or should I just get some grips? Lastly, I'm finally installing a starter relay that was missing from the previous owner. Since I have no previous reference and no marking on the starter relay itself, does it matter which of the two connections on it the battery lead and the starter motor lead hook to? Bike is a 1982 GS 450L
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Mar 5, 2011 23:00
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BlackMK4 posted:The liner that clips in behind the head on both sides constantly comes out, the helmet whistles from around the visor seal, and the visor mechanism isn't really solid (lots of play). The cheek pads also have compressed a lot so it's looser than I would prefer - I wear a size small. If I had the money I would buy a different brand.
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Mar 5, 2011 23:57
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Any recommendations on an entry-level tool set (From amazon) for basic basic car/bike stuff and around the house stuff.
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Mar 6, 2011 06:06
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http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00935154000P?prdNo=10&blockNo=10&blockType=G10 or http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00935255000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2
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Mar 6, 2011 06:10
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Frankston posted:Hi guys, bought my first bike today (08 xr125). Remove your seat and the tank. Follow your gas cable routing. If it's stripped to the frame remove all strips. Also slacken the cable tension at the throttle adjustment screw. Find a nice relaxed route for the cable and loosely strip it to the frame. Not too tight, allow some slack. Refit seat and tank. Place your bike on the center stand and start it. Readjust cable tension at the throttle while moving your handlebar to both limits. Done.
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Mar 6, 2011 13:32
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Is there anyway to identify what each lead on the regulator/rectifier is, previous owner installed an aftermarket one I guess? Suffice to say the color coding on this one doesn't match the clymer manual or the generator and wiring harness, hell it doesn't even have the right number of wires. I have a multimeter if that can be used.
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Mar 6, 2011 19:00
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Do sportbikes always require 91-93 octane gas? It's what I've been running but I've been coming across some conflicting info regarding the octane rating my ninja is supposed to take. My own hard copy service manual states a minimum of 90, while one I got online states "min 91 research/87 avg. oct. unleaded OK. It seems like a lot of other kawi riders are arguing 87 is all it needs and that running higher octanes unnecessarily causes excess carbon buildup due to slower burning. Can I just step down to mid and then regular if I don't hear any pinging? And what about midgrade gas degrading since it sits? It's seems like nobody ever gets midgrade, so it would be the oldest in the pump, right?
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Mar 6, 2011 22:15
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Yes, 87 AKI is perfectly fine, it's about the same as 91/92 RON, which most bikes are perfectly happy with. The manual for my Bandit says "91 RON minimum", which sounds similar to what the manual for your Ninja says.
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Mar 6, 2011 22:53
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Well, the owners manual says AKI 90 min. My service manual just says "increase octane if knocking/pinging" but doesn't give an octane. The one I got off Kawiforums says that stuff about "min 91 research/87 avg. oct. unleaded OK." I wanna believe 87 is OK but with almost 13:1 compression I find it kinda hard.
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Mar 6, 2011 23:53
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I think North America bikes are tuned a litte differently so they'll accept 87 octane without any problems. My GSXR manual says Minimum 87 Octane for U.S. & Canada, 91 Octane for other countries. We can't even get 91 anymore in Australia (it's mixed with 10% ethanol) so 95 it is.
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Mar 7, 2011 00:06
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MrZig posted:http://www.petes-superbike.com/ Bringing up this old post: I'm going to buy a set of rubber from these guys, because even with shipping they're almost half price compared to the next cheapest place here for the same drat rubber. Problem is the bike stores in town are highway robbery for mounting/balancing tires. Out of spite, I'm seriously considering buying a No-Mar or Cycle-Hill unit. Sure, it'll cost me quite a bit up front but I figure it'll eventually pay for itself... and who knows, maybe mount some for local guys and make a few bucks. http://www.nomartirechanger.com/ Anyone here have either tire changers? Any thoughts between them?
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Mar 7, 2011 00:31
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I'm a big fan of the HF stuff personally. I use that plus 3 HF tire irons and have it down to about 5 minutes to swap tires. I don't know if it's still available though. I change my own tires because I'm on a budget, itd take a long time to pay off one of the more expensive changers. The ~100$ for the HF stuff hits the right pricepoint, and has all the same functionality while keeping costs down. I've used the nomar stuff, I love their tire paste and use that. But their tire changer isn't good enough to justify the cost for me.
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Mar 7, 2011 00:36
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slidebite posted:Tire changers We have the no-mar setup as well as the Harbor Freight stuff at the house, bead breaker and 3 spoons is really all you need. The no-mar isn't setup because the HF works great and is quick, swapped the front tire on the SV this morning in half an hour which included getting the wheel on/off the bike. Also if you don't change many tires and don't feel like keeping special tire changing goop on hand gojo works great. The slimy paste stuff that comes in little cans works as good as all the special tire goop I've used in the past.
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Mar 7, 2011 00:48
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quote:Harbor Freight Unfortunately as I'm  we don't have HF here. We do have our version of the store, Princess Auto, but they don't carry motorcycle tire changers.That said, if anyone knows of a place to score an econo tire changer suitable for bike tires I'm all ears! 
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Mar 7, 2011 00:54
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Gnaghi posted:Do sportbikes always require 91-93 octane gas?
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Mar 7, 2011 00:55
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BlackMK4 posted:I've run 87 in mine since new without issues, even at the track in 100*+ weather. Ok I'm sold then.
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Mar 7, 2011 01:42
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Ooh, this raises a good question- what about gas that says "enriched with x% ethanol" like from Shell or wherever? Does that matter at all? Or the "clean your engine" hydrogen enrichment bullshit?
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Mar 7, 2011 07:13
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Fifty Three posted:Ooh, this raises a good question- what about gas that says "enriched with x% ethanol" like from Shell or wherever? Does that matter at all? Or the "clean your engine" hydrogen enrichment bullshit? Haha "enriched", that's some marketing bullshit right there. Avoid if at all possible. Same goes for just about any gas that promises to "clean your engine", all gas has additives, you're much better off getting some sort of cleaning additive and mixing it in yourself.
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Mar 7, 2011 12:35
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I've got to get new tires for my 86 Interceptor 500, but the Clymer says it uses a 100-90V 16 front and I don't see any tires on Bike Bandit with a V in that size. I know it isn't a speed rating because these are H rated tires. What does that V signify? Also, Battlax BT45 or Sport Demons?
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Mar 7, 2011 18:52
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What would cause the center of the front tire to cup hardcore? I just put 800mi on the bike in 2 days and the center tread 'block' sticks out a lot more than the sides. I didn't really check the tire before the trip, so it could have been like that before.
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Mar 7, 2011 20:59
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Pvt. Public posted:I've got to get new tires for my 86 Interceptor 500, but the Clymer says it uses a 100-90V 16 front and I don't see any tires on Bike Bandit with a V in that size. I know it isn't a speed rating because these are H rated tires. What does that V signify? I'm pretty sure the V is the speed rating. You and I are in the same boat when it comes to tire choices, we need to get cross ply and they only come in one speed rating which is "good enough". I think I would've chosen the Sport Demon altough I haven't tried them. They're well regarded by the internet hive mind, but the BT45 is a bit more varied. I've stuck to Avon Roadriders so far, they're excellent. BlackMK4 posted:What would cause the center of the front tire to cup hardcore? I just put 800mi on the bike in 2 days and the center tread 'block' sticks out a lot more than the sides. I didn't really check the tire before the trip, so it could have been like that before. So it's wearing more on the sides than on the center? Low tire pressure will do that.
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Mar 7, 2011 21:14
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Ola posted:So it's wearing more on the sides than on the center? Low tire pressure will do that. 
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Mar 7, 2011 21:42
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