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The tensioner for one! Nothing else. It might have damaged the inner front sprocket cover too because I haven't had time to check that out yet, but it probably didn't do much since there was very little drama.
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Apr 21, 2011 23:05
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So a friend of mine went and bought a wrecked '07 ZX-6R without consulting any of his biker friends, including yours truly http://i52.tinypic.com/4zw18z.jpg He's a biker noob. This is his first bike. He got it for 3 grand. Apparently it was sitting for two years before it found itself in my friend's hands. He's been bugging me about helping him inspect the bike to see what it needs. He knows it needs a new brake peg and mirrors to pass inspection. The other side looks fine & tires/subframe look straight. Right now I'm thinking he's a horrendous idiot. how much ya think it'd cost to get back in shape? he aims to replace all the hosed parts. i have no idea what new Ninja fairings cost.
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Apr 21, 2011 23:33
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$3k is high, you can get a crashed 09 for that... anyway. $250-300 for the tank $25-50 for a right rearset $125 for a tail section $65 for a right lower fairing $120 for right mid fairing $200 for an upper front fairing $? whatever that plastic trim piece is that runs along the frame/subframe Plus shipping, just cherry picked some ballpark ebay items. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Apr 21, 2011 |
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Apr 21, 2011 23:41
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BlackMK4 posted:$3k is high, you can get a crashed 09 for that... anyway. thanks. Does the popped-up seat indicate anything? My friend says the seller told him that it was just the battery being the wrong one, intended for 03-06 zx6rs.
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Apr 21, 2011 23:44
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The seat looks bent in the front there, but I would doubt what he says since the battery is identical from like 98 to current. The subframe doesn't 'look' bent and to cause that much of a bend it'd need to have looked like one of those UK street fighters  It's probably just not installed right, there is a tongue that it needs to slide under in the front, it could just be on top of the little metal box it is supposed to be inside of.
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Apr 21, 2011 23:50
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Don't replace cosmetic poo poo, he's gonna drop it again. Wait until he's turned 10k on it first. If you're gonna replace plastics, buy one of those ebay kits for $450, it'll give him spares. Get the rearset situation sorted out, 20$ set of ebay mirrors, get him riding it, and go from there.
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Apr 21, 2011 23:57
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If he was smart he'd learn how to ride on it before trying to make it pretty.
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Apr 21, 2011 23:58
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The above two posts are horribly accurate, don't want a repeat of what looks like a bike that was crashed with what was probably far less than 1000mi on it.
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Apr 21, 2011 23:58
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He'll crash it, get spooked, leave it sitting for two years, then sell it to the next newbie. It's the cycle of life.
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Apr 22, 2011 00:07
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Ola posted:He'll crash it, get spooked, leave it sitting for two years, then sell it to the next newbie. It's the cycle of life. Someday, that motorcycle will become a beautiful racebike for some novice racer, most likely after the title is lost and found and it's discovered that the bank still owns it. Or it will slowly fall to pieces in a ditch. One of the 2, at least.
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Apr 22, 2011 00:09
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I'm now looking forward to him getting spooked from it and buying it from him at an extra low price and streetfighering it out. Got any riding advice for him?
the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Apr 22, 2011 |
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Apr 22, 2011 01:13
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Well this seems like the thread for this, has anyone dealt with a steel headgasket before? I'm definitely getting high pressure gas in my coolant loop and this is the only part that could do that from what I can tell. On inspecting it the head's mating surface is slightly convex while the barrel's surface is flat. On a forum I frequent the common thought is to just get it lapped and reuse the old gasket, but I'm going to play it safe and replace that as well. The main question is should I buy another stock steel gasket or are there alternatives that would last me longer? They also say to spray a coat of engine enamel on both sides of the gasket itself. Should I, or what else should I do? This all came about from an old rubber tube cracking causing my now coolantless bike to overheat, apparently warping the head a little. It's a '99 EX 500(Ninja 500). Bondematt fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Apr 22, 2011 |
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Apr 22, 2011 01:16
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Bondematt posted:On a forum I frequent the common thought is to just get it lapped quote:The main question is should I buy another stock steel gasket or are there alternatives that would last me longer? quote:They also say to spray a coat of engine enamel on both sides of the gasket itself.
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Apr 22, 2011 01:32
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I've heard of spray can copper headgasket sealer, I wouldn't do that though.
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Apr 22, 2011 01:38
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BlackMK4 posted:I've heard of spray can copper headgasket sealer, I wouldn't do that though. That's what I've used in the past (when recommended) by the manual. Spray it evenly, let it tack up, install and torque head bolts. the walkin dude posted:I'm now looking forward to him getting spooked from it and buying it from him at an extra low price and streetfighering it out. Got any riding advice for him? MSF, Proficient Motorcycling, Sport Riding Techniques, Total Control. The second you show off is the second your bike ends up in a ditch. That's about as good as it gets.
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Apr 22, 2011 01:58
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^ Yeah most car's seem to use that copper spray too ^Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:You mean machined? At an engine shop? Yes. Would they machine for this little of a removal? it's .05mm out of whack across the center. Yes I'm taking it to a shop and hopefully tomorrow. Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:As in engine paint? Or exhaust paint or something? Never heard of this but I can't imagine putting anything at all on the head gasket could be a good idea. Install them the way the manufacturer tells you to. (which is usually dry) Yeah they were saying engine enamel, which is just engine paint. I thought that was weird too, after reading the manual all of what they said sounds really odd. So ordering a new gasket. Manual calls for a dry, new gasket. It's only $20 too, are people really that cheap when it comes to an engine? Looks like the gasket comes coated, maybe they were trying to emulate that with the spray? Bondematt fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Apr 22, 2011 |
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Apr 22, 2011 02:12
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Picked up a decent sized nail in my tread yesterday. For now I pumped it back up so that at least the tire has air pressure, to try and save the sidewalls. It's losing air pretty quickly, went from full pressure when I came back from riding it last night at 11PM or so to flat now. Can I take this to any tire repair place, or am I best off going up to my bike mechanic? I've already ridden on it at least 50 miles without realizing I had a nail in it, so I'm not too worried about riding it to the bike mechanic 10 miles away, but I'd prefer a local tire shop just for convenience. The nail is in the rear tire of a Metzler Z6 on an SV650 if it matters. Don't have the time to get it fixed today (but won't be riding either), I hope topping off the air for now will prevent any huge tire damage.
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Apr 22, 2011 21:04
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Weinertron posted:Picked up a decent sized nail in my tread yesterday. For now I pumped it back up so that at least the tire has air pressure, to try and save the sidewalls. It's losing air pretty quickly, went from full pressure when I came back from riding it last night at 11PM or so to flat now. Tire's already screwed. If you run them flat for any real amount of time you strain the hell out of the woven belts in the tires, potentially causing breakage or other damage. You might be ok but I'd replace the tire unless you want to risk some sort of bubble/blowout as a result of the damage done to the tire while riding it without any air in it. If you didn't run it without air in it, then I'd recommend putting the bike on a stand, pulling the rear wheel off, and taking it to a shop to have an internal plug installed. You might have some difficulty getting them to do it, just depends on the shop. Many won't patch motorcycle tires, too much liability.
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Apr 22, 2011 21:25
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I think pretty much every bike shop refuses to patch tires now. You can buy a tubeless tire plug kit at a hardware store and try it yourself, if you're feeling adventurous, though.Bondematt posted:Would they machine for this little of a removal? it's .05mm out of whack across the center. Yes I'm taking it to a shop and hopefully tomorrow.
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Apr 22, 2011 22:15
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Z3n posted:Tire's already screwed. If you run them flat for any real amount of time you strain the hell out of the woven belts in the tires, potentially causing breakage or other damage. You might be ok but I'd replace the tire unless you want to risk some sort of bubble/blowout as a result of the damage done to the tire while riding it without any air in it. I never ran it flat, I noticed it low before I started it up today. I definitely picked it up the last time I was riding. I really think the tire should be ok, I didn't even let it sit long flat when it wasn't moving and the nail is not too far near the sidewall, only about halfway between the center and edge. Thanks for the advice.
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Apr 22, 2011 22:26
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Weinertron posted:I never ran it flat, I noticed it low before I started it up today. I definitely picked it up the last time I was riding. I really think the tire should be ok, I didn't even let it sit long flat when it wasn't moving and the nail is not too far near the sidewall, only about halfway between the center and edge. Ah, you're probably ok then. The only issue here is finding a shop that will dismount the tire and repair it for you then. I'd try to avoid riding on it if at all possible, hitch a ride to a shop with a friend or something.
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Apr 22, 2011 23:13
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What would cause my 89 GSXR 750 to suddenly lose half its power, start vibrating, cant idle, and sounds like a 3 cylinder bike? I tried taking off each plug wire individually but there's not a single cylinder that's dead - it's like every one is affected. IE, every wire if unplugged individually couldn't start the bike, but with them all plugged in, it runs like arse. Also if I hold the throttle open a bit so it runs in neutral, the exhaust has a 'woof' / pop sound every few seconds. I'm thinking either the cam(s) jumped a tooth, the coil(s) went fubar, or a cylinder lost compression. Going to tear into it tomorrow but any quick advice would be handy.
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Apr 23, 2011 02:39
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I think pretty much every bike shop refuses to patch tires now. You can buy a tubeless tire plug kit at a hardware store and try it yourself, if you're feeling adventurous, though. Why are (properly) patched tires that big of a deal? VV I guess I was wondering more about the "feeling adventurous" part. Unless he was just referring to the process. obso fucked around with this message at 02:57 on Apr 23, 2011 |
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Apr 23, 2011 02:50
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^ Plugs fail more often than patches, hence the adventurous. ^ They get sued if it falls apart for any reason after they touch it, even if that's 10,000mi down the road. Basically its just a CYA thing. Just dropped off my Head/cylinders at a shop. Getting them back Monday, so before my new gasket and valve stem seals and other crap even gets shipped. This week is going to suck. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Apr 23, 2011 |
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Apr 23, 2011 02:54
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Go to a shop and get them to plug it with a proper motorcycle tire plug and you'll be fine. Mine's been going just fine in a Pilot Pure (a thinner and softer tire than yours) for about 2k miles now of mixed commuting and twisties riding. It's been up to some pretty good speeds and hasn't failed yet. Leaks air slowly over time but it's never much (3-4psi) and could just be the rim or valvestem or something else. It's always better to just replace the tire if you can afford it but don't be too scared to plug it. I doubt your shop will bitch about doing it. I can almost guarantee you that if you get them to replace the tire they're going to plug it themselves and give it to one of their guys to do trackdays or stunting on.
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Apr 23, 2011 03:20
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MrZig posted:Also if I hold the throttle open a bit so it runs in neutral, the exhaust has a 'woof' / pop sound every few seconds. That's unburnt fuel coming from a cylinder that isn't firing getting ignited by the hot gas from a cylinder that is. It could be getting a very wrong mixture or the plug isn't firing. Easiest thing to do is pull each plug, see if it looks ok and then see if it sparks when you crank.
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Apr 23, 2011 07:13
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Hey MQT guys! So, I'm in Latvia right now, and I just bought a beautiful pimped-out Dnepr MT-10. My Latvian rider friend here is kind of shaking her head, telling me what a fool I am. But it's so pretty! (Here's the bike. Some of the wannabe-Harley pimpage will be removed). Supposedly it's a 1979. Anyway. It's been a while since I had a bike, and the last bike I had was Japanese and I could basically torture it as much as I wanted to without it breaking down. This one, I'm guessing not. So, my questions if anyone has some wisdom: This thing doesn't have a fork lock, so I'm guessing it'll be pretty easy to steal. What's a good way to make it a little harder to steal? Anyone know anything about maintenance I need to do on these Dnepr engines? Finally: The PO did some stupid poo poo, as you can see. What's non-obvious is that the rear tire is actually a car tire of some kind, and the rear forks have been modified to accomodate it. That seems kind of suicidal to me, for some reason. Am I right?
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Apr 23, 2011 10:22
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Why did I fail to research the going internet price for a certain helmet and overpay for it by like $50 at a local bike shop? Why? In other news, I now have a helmet. All that's left is the MSF. And... a bike.
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Apr 23, 2011 10:33
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Backov posted:This thing doesn't have a fork lock, so I'm guessing it'll be pretty easy to steal. What's a good way to make it a little harder to steal? There are different type of locks for a bike, but they never really make it hard to steal a bike. If there's room for three guys to lift the thing in a van, you're SOL. This means that the best protection is, sadly, insurance. That said, locks aren't completely useless. If you can get your bike right next to a post or metal fence of some kind you could secure the bike to it with a chain lock. A disc lock is a good replacement for the missing steering lock, although it only stops a random lummox to go on a walkabout with it. Backov posted:Anyone know anything about maintenance I need to do on these Dnepr engines? Dnepr's one of those brands that have a cult following, so I think you can find a buttload of information on some dnepr specific site. Oh hey look at that! Backov posted:Finally: The PO did some stupid poo poo, as you can see. What's non-obvious is that the rear tire is actually a car tire of some kind, and the rear forks have been modified to accomodate it. That seems kind of suicidal to me, for some reason. Am I right? On a whole, yes.
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Apr 23, 2011 13:23
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Fifty Three posted:Why did I fail to research the going internet price for a certain helmet and overpay for it by like $50 at a local bike shop? Why? You are helping to keep that shop in business, Here in Nebraska we had a really awesome bike gear shop that went under a couple years ago. I bought a jacket and a helmet there for a little bit more than the going internet price but I liked having a shop with good gear to try on.
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Apr 23, 2011 13:54
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I've been watching some Gymkhana videos; the low speed (relative term) technical maneuvering around a course of cones in a parking lot. Do people do that in the US? It looks like a lot of fun, but I've never seen or heard of any events.
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Apr 23, 2011 14:03
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Pagan posted:I've been watching some Gymkhana videos; the low speed (relative term) technical maneuvering around a course of cones in a parking lot. Do people do that in the US? It looks like a lot of fun, but I've never seen or heard of any events. It's not a competitive sport here. There was a league called Buell BattleTrax which was the same idea, but that fizzled out and went the same way Buell did. There have been some attempts at making this work but I guess the interest just isn't there. To be fair, Japan has a lot more access to small awesome bikes that work well in this kind of riding.
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Apr 23, 2011 14:41
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My 2005 F4i has trouble starting right after I fill up with gas. I've always been skeptical of the whole "certain brands of gas are better than other brands" kinda thing, but now I'm wondering. I work in the boonies so I almost always fill up at a no-name truck gas place. It's either that or end up empty. Is there anything I should look at before I try a week of just filling up at Chevrons? The bike runs spectacularly otherwise.
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Apr 23, 2011 15:06
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Does it have trouble starting threw the whole tank of gas? Or is it just hard to start after the initial fillup?
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Apr 23, 2011 16:15
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KARMA! posted:That said, locks aren't completely useless. If you can get your bike right next to a post or metal fence of some kind you could secure the bike to it with a chain lock. A disc lock is a good replacement for the missing steering lock, although it only stops a random lummox to go on a walkabout with it. He can buy a ground anchor to put his chain and padlock (hardened with a sleeve, not a random bit of chain from the Latvian equivalent of a hardware store) through, thus making it impossible to carry the bike away. Without digging up the anchor or breaking the chain. This saves you finding a convenient solid object at home. From that picture, you appear to have a solid disc. So don't buy a disc lock, buy a u-lock (bicycle courier style) that goes through the wheel and will foul on the forks if someone tries to roll it away. You used to be able to get ones that come with a bracket so you can bolt it up to the bike when it's not in use.
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Apr 23, 2011 16:29
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KARMA! posted:Dnepr's one of those brands that have a cult following, so I think you can find a buttload of information on some dnepr specific site. Oh hey look at that! Lovely! That's a drat useful link. I'd seen that site but not that particular PDF. Saga posted:He can buy a ground anchor to put his chain and padlock (hardened with a sleeve, not a random bit of chain from the Latvian equivalent of a hardware store) through, thus making it impossible to carry the bike away. Without digging up the anchor or breaking the chain. I have a large tree right beside where I will park it, so I guess I can just get a thick chain and a lock.
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Apr 23, 2011 17:10
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Ola posted:That's unburnt fuel coming from a cylinder that isn't firing getting ignited by the hot gas from a cylinder that is. It could be getting a very wrong mixture or the plug isn't firing. It could also be from cylinder #1 having 0 PSI compression. gently caress my life.
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Apr 23, 2011 21:19
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I guess I knew it could be that, but some horror protection center in my mind wouldn't let me think it. My deepest condolences. You sure have taken more than your fair share of mechanical poo poo. I will burn a candle for you tonight. But stay strong, stay true. Go into the breach once more my friend. If nothing else, we'll get some good pics of the carnage.
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Apr 23, 2011 21:34
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Both my SV650s are now without their chain guards. Is this bad?
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Apr 23, 2011 23:48
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Which chain guard? The one around the front sprocket or the one above the upper chain length on the swingarm?
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Apr 24, 2011 00:02
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