|
Backov posted:At idle it wants to stall. It didn't when I test rode it, so I assume it just needs a carb adjustment. I've got the manual now and I'll read that bit after this post to see if it's helpful, but what generally do you need to adjust? What you really need is a Mikuni carburetor replacement. Both the original carburetors the K301s (worst) and the K63/K65s (slightly better but still rather useless) are pretty worthless. You will not find any Mikunis that will bolt right on though. Parts for your bike will be really interesting to find to say the least. Your brakes are poo poo because your front drum sports a single leading shoe. Your bike is a 6V too. It'll be really hard to convert it to 12V and you'll have trouble getting good front light. Watch out for oil leaks between the 6V dynamo and your engine. Just out of curiosity, what on earth made you buy this bike - and even as your first bike. Be glad if you spend 1/10 of your time with this bike actually riding it. Edit: OK, just saw the linked picture of your bike. It's pretty heavily modified. I see a new fork and a front dish brake new wheels from God knows what? Maybe MZ? New suspension and some frame modifications. Maybe the carburetor issue is already addressed, who knows? LO Technology fucked around with this message at 11:07 on Apr 27, 2011 |
#
?
Apr 27, 2011 10:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 16:02 |
|
|
"Since demise of U.S.S.R. the factory had fallen on very hard times. Production decreased to only remnants of former glory. All shops were closed, and machine tools were taken out of the city limits." Photo tour of Latvia's scrapyards coming soon.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2011 10:54
|
|
|
LO Technology posted:What you really need is a Mikuni carburetor replacement. Both the original carburetors the K301s (worst) and the K63/K65s (slightly better but still rather useless) are pretty worthless. You will not find any Mikunis that will bolt right on though. Yes, I've heard that a lot from Latvians down on this make. It's hardly my first bike, I've been riding for 23 years. I've never really wrenched on one though. Like I said, Japanese bikes.  This particular bike has had a lot of love from the owner over the last 6 years, who's since upgraded to a brand new VTX-1300. It was running great (and the brakes were working) when I test rode it. Meh. It's going to the mechanic tonight, hopefully any issues should be quickly resolved. Also, parts are really not that hard to find here. Thanks for the help.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2011 11:46
|
|
|
Is there a way to adjust the clutch to change the distance between fully engaged and fully disengaged? Right now I find my starts really jerky because theres so little travel between "starting to roll" and "fully out". And there's lots of clutch movement on either side of that window that does nothing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2011 15:00
|
|
|
Yes, adjust the knob at the clutch lever or there's another somewhere around where the cable goes into the engine cover. Moving the adjusted "out" (unscrewed it) will move the engagement point away from the bar, screwing it in will move it closer to the bar. Sounds like you need to adjusted it out. Make sure you don't overdo it and end up with a clutch that never engages fully, make sure there's a small amount of slack in the lever before it starts pulling on the cable.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2011 15:14
|
|
|
I think what Clank is asking for is how to widen the engagement range. If you figure out how, I'd love to know
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2011 16:46
|
|
|
KozmoNaut posted:I think what Clank is asking for is how to widen the engagement range.  It's possible. Different clutch spring tensions and a newer vs. an older clutchpack will make a difference. Zoran recommends using half a barnett clutch spring kit on the SVs when you start to go over stock power to help them hold strong, I did it and it definitely made it engage quicker. Personally, I find the biggest difference you can make is with adjustable levers, though. If you can adjust both the span from the bar and the engagement point, it makes it really easy to put the engagement point exactly where it's easy to modulate.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2011 17:10
|
|
|
Clank posted:Is there a way to adjust the clutch to change the distance between fully engaged and fully disengaged? Right now I find my starts really jerky because theres so little travel between "starting to roll" and "fully out". And there's lots of clutch movement on either side of that window that does nothing. Ride around with the clutch half-slipping the whole time for a couple weeks. You should have a nice wide clutch transition after that.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2011 17:16
|
|
|
I'm about to take the tires off my 599 for the first time; the first time I've removed the tires personally, that is. I don't have bike stands for it, so... what do I do to keep it from falling over? I've got new tires ordered (Thanks to Z3n and his Tire Thread) and I found a shop that will put tires on the rims if we remove them ourselves. I'll also be doing brakes and replacing suspension oil; a solid day of wrenching planned for tomorrow.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2011 23:44
|
|
|
I guess you could use some jack stands if your ballsy and have friends to help you muscle the bike around lol
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2011 00:43
|
|
|
Pagan posted:I'm about to take the tires off my 599 for the first time; the first time I've removed the tires personally, that is. I don't have bike stands for it, so... what do I do to keep it from falling over? I've got new tires ordered (Thanks to Z3n and his Tire Thread) and I found a shop that will put tires on the rims if we remove them ourselves.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2011 00:44
|
|
|
Like this
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2011 00:47
|
|
|
I did this http://www.mad-ducati.com/Technical/FrontStand/HMFS.html Works great!
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2011 03:41
|
|
|
CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:I did this http://www.mad-ducati.com/Technical/FrontStand/HMFS.html Wow is that PVC pipe?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2011 16:17
|
|
|
Ola posted:Wow is that PVC pipe? Looks like steel to me
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2011 17:15
|
|
|
Alright, did some wrenching today. It was productive in some ways, but not in others. I used a combination of jack stands and boards to hold my bike up... My roommates GS500 had a centerstand, which was very helpful.  Removing the tires was actually easier than I thought it would be. I've never done it before, but things came off pretty quickly and it was rather intuitive. We were checking our factory manuals, but it all made sense. I got a lot done on mine; new brake pads, even pulled the forks off and changed the fork oil.  Then it was time to bring the wheels to the shop to get new tires put on. That's when we started to run into problems. My bike, the 599, was fine; I was able to get a matching set of tires. But my roommates has such a tiny front wheel, I had to order two different types of tires. The front was a Bridgestone Battlax, the rear was a michelion Pilot Road Dual Compound. When we took the tires in, the guy told us it's a terrible idea to have a mix radial ply and bias ply. He said he could get a Pilot Road front in by tomorrow, so we went ahead and ordered that. Now I gotta find out how easy it is to return something to Tire Express. We headed back home, and it was time to mess with the GS500. He's never been able to change his oil filter; he bought the bike used, and the aftermarket exhaust covers the oil filter opening.  So, we decided to remove the exhaust entirely; kind of a pain in the rear end for something that should be as simple as an oil change. Unfortunately, as you can see in the pictures, everything is pretty rusted and corroded, so we couldn't get all 4 bolts off. One bolt is so stripped and corroded, nothing will grab it. We figured we'd save that for later; maybe use a torch to get it out. So, let's do the brakes on the GS500. We ordered the parts from Bike Bandit, we're good to go! We disassemble the caliper, and realize that the brake pads look a lot different from the ones we ordered. Turns out there's an aftermarket brake caliper with different pads. Well gently caress. Since we didn't have wheels, we couldn't flush and bleed the brakes; and the 599 was being held up by boards that were basically covering the drain plug. So, we decided to take a break and finish up tomorrow once the tires are put on. I guess that's one downside to buying a used bike; if the person who owned it before you is a twit, you have no idea what parts you need to order. I guess we should have realized we needed to be more careful; when my roommate got the bike, I rode it home and noticed that the front suspension was atrociously bad. He ordered springs and fork oil, and once he took the forks apart, one fork was filled to the very top with oil, the other one was empty.... It rides much better now that there's an equal amount of oil in each fork. This is how we left 'em.... 
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2011 19:05
|
|
|
That's my GS500 there, and it's really frustrating to have these (what appear to be) poorly thought out aftermarket parts on there. Yeah I guess the exhaust sounds cool, but you can't take the loving oil filter out.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2011 21:55
|
|
|
If I decide to go the Shadow RS route I have a couple quick questions about maintenance. What and how often is the maintenance for a chain drive and for liquid (water) cooled?
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2011 03:42
|
|
|
In my experience the chain adjustments/cleaning are recommended like every 4 to 5 hundred miles, though I guess that might vary by manufacturer. It will probably say in the manual or possibly even on a sticker located on the bike somewhere.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2011 03:54
|
|
|
ChiTownEddie posted:If I decide to go the Shadow RS route I have a couple quick questions about maintenance. What and how often is the maintenance for a chain drive and for liquid (water) cooled? Are you asking what the maintenance requirements are for a bike that has chain drive and water cooling, or are you asking what the requirements are for chain final drives and for water-based cooling systems? For the former, see your manual. For the latter, check chain tension before every ride and adjust as appropriate - on average perhaps every 500 miles, but this depends on a number of variables. Clean when dirty. Apply lube when the chain appears dry and/or is dry to the touch. Cooling system: per your manual, but typically, as with cars, you're suggested to drain and replace coolant every two years.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2011 07:18
|
|
|
Who has a link to that thread about carbs? I can't seem to find it. My bike won't turn over even though the starter sounds fine, and I'm reasonably certain I didn't run it long enough to get the stabil into the carb last winter. Will also be checking the valves about 3k miles too late.  edit: Found it: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3271098 Loucks fucked around with this message at 00:29 on May 1, 2011 |
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2011 16:28
|
|
|
Did they make '07 CBR600RRs with a gold exhaust pipe or an aftermarket system with one? Mine has a Two Brothers slip on, but the previous owner doesn't know if the entire exhaust system was aftermarket or not. It also looks like the original owner took off the exhaust heat shield to show off those pipes (and left boot rubber on them as a result). Picture!  I'll take more when I can, if needed, the bike is garaged in another state right now.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2011 19:11
|
|
|
Isn't that the mid pipe that comes with the slip-on?
|
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2011 19:16
|
|
|
Edit: Herpaderp. Turns out the Two Brothers slip ons DID have gold pipes. Mystery solved. Bixington fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Apr 30, 2011 |
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2011 19:20
|
|
|
Just got a 2004 VTR250, and I rode it twice, seemingly fine, but last night when I tried to wheel it into my garage on neutral, I noticed that the front brake pads were rubbing against the rotor. It looks like both pads on the front are touching the rotor. But then again, so does the rear ones. I'm wondering if its just the "break-in" of a new set of brake pads, or if its something I should dismantle the caliper for. Anyone have any ideas?
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2011 01:00
|
|
|
All brake pads are going to rub up against the rotors, nothing to worry about. As long as you can still spin the wheel that's perfectly normal.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2011 01:05
|
|
|
Does anyone know a good forum for UJMs? I have a non-running 1979 GS 1000 that I want to part out, but I don't know enough about where to start with this. Any advice would be appreciated.
DJ-Quack fucked around with this message at 01:16 on May 2, 2011 |
|
#
?
May 2, 2011 01:06
|
|
|
-Inu- posted:All brake pads are going to rub up against the rotors, nothing to worry about. As long as you can still spin the wheel that's perfectly normal. It seems like it isn't rolling as freely as it should. I'll try get the front wheel up and give it a spin today. Having no centre stand sucks.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2011 01:20
|
|
|
As long as the wheel rotates freely then it's probably fine. The pads will run pretty close to the rotor, especially if the brakes have been given a good squeeze and not been up to speed again (not exactly a return spring on brake calipers).
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2011 01:45
|
|
|
lancemantis posted:As long as the wheel rotates freely then it's probably fine. The pads will run pretty close to the rotor, especially if the brakes have been given a good squeeze and not been up to speed again (not exactly a return spring on brake calipers). Ah, that could probably be why. I was trying to back up the bike up the slight incline on my drivway, resting on the front brake before giving it another yank backwards up the driveway.. I'll try spin the wheel and take it for a short ride, see if either of them fix it.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2011 01:52
|
|
|
Talk to me about fuel injectors, in particular, fuel injectors on an 01 GSX-R 600. I've got my old racebike, and I'm convinced that letting gas sit in it for way too long has gummed them up. What's the best way to clean them? I looked for replacements on bike bandit, but couldn't find any.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2011 02:38
|
|
|
I guess you could try fuel system cleaning solution for starts (I think some manufacturers even sell 'bike specific' bottles of the stuff, at least Kawasaki did at some point from what I remember). I'm not really sure of what solvents would be friendly to leave part of them sitting in otherwise.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2011 02:42
|
|
|
The stars have aligned and I've been able to put in some good riding time with the GS500. This is probably a new rider error, but I want to make sure this isn't something bigger. I start the bike with the choke on and she warms up just fine at about 13-1400 rpms. I turn off the choke and take her for ride; length and time don't seem to be a factor. I haven't noticed anything odd with the ride it self. When I come to a stop, the idle speed is incredibly low (tach. reads sub 1000) with the clutch fully disengaged. If I leave it like this, the engine will die, but if I open the choke a bit, it comes back to life. I have to play with the choke every time I come to a stop or kill the engine. This could be something with the carbs or with the rider. What do you guys think?
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2011 03:52
|
|
|
I've had similar style issues, sometimes I would come to a stop, let the clutch out in neutral and stall. I think maybe they just idle low and sometimes after coming down from a lot of high RPMs they like to go too low and die.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2011 04:43
|
|
|
I had problems with my GS500 idle for a little while, turns out one of the exhaust valves was way too tight, like negative clearance as in the exhaust valve was constantly open to some degree... it wouldn't idle at a stop at all even after it was warmed up, and it was getting crappy fuel mileage. Check/adjust valve clearances, once you do it the first time it's really easy every time after. Theres a motion pro tool that is relatively inexpensive that helps a lot,with getting the shims out.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2011 07:17
|
|
|
Pagan posted:Talk to me about fuel injectors, in particular, fuel injectors on an 01 GSX-R 600. I've got my old racebike, and I'm convinced that letting gas sit in it for way too long has gummed them up. What's the best way to clean them? I looked for replacements on bike bandit, but couldn't find any. You can send them off to a shop to get cleaned. What's making you think that the injectors are the problem? I'd start diagnoses with the fuel pump, make sure you're getting enough pressure out of it. Don Music posted:Ah, that could probably be why. I was trying to back up the bike up the slight incline on my drivway, resting on the front brake before giving it another yank backwards up the driveway.. Take it around the block, only use the rear brake (unless you have to panic brake for some reason). If the front rotor is still cold to the touch/the same temp as you started with it at, you're fine.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2011 07:26
|
|
|
Just started having a weird issue with my 99 ZX-11D. No electrical problems with the bike to date. Was installing an HID kit, after installing it, basically turned the ignition on, hit the starter, and the bike went dead. When I turn the ignition to the off position, I get power to the dash (clock turns on), when I turn the ignition to on, everything is dead. A few more times I was able to get power with the ignition turned on, (about 3x) but every time I would hit the starter the bike would die (with a sort of a pop sound, probably the solenoid clicking) before cranking. I tried switching the junction box with a known good one with no effect. All the fuses are intact, all the ones in the junction box and the main one as well. The grounds and battery terminals look intact. Does this sound familiar to anyone? It's impossible to make sense of the black and white wiring diagram. I've checked pretty much all the connections that I can get to without pulling off the airbox, the problem doesn't seem reproducible by wiggling anything that I can get to. I can't seem to figure out anything that happened the few times that the bike was able to get power with the ignition switch on... can't reproduce that no matter what I've tried wiggling. I'm sure something is shorting somewhere but have no idea what. I'll probably end up having to tear the whole bike apart to be able to get to all the wiring to test everything, but was wondering if anyone would be able to point me in the right direction to look. You'd think that the HID kit installation and this problem would be related somehow, and since there should be power to the headlamp with the ignition on (I've disabled the headlight relay on my junction box, put my junction box in my friend's Kawasaki and it worked fine) it seems like it's related SOMEHOW, I just can't seem to find any obvious cause for it. Any ideas? edit: should clarify, after installing the HID kit it worked fine for one startup where everything was normal. problem started with the second time.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2011 14:38
|
|
|
DJ-Quack posted:Does anyone know a good forum for UJMs? I have a non-running 1979 GS 1000 that I want to part out, but I don't know enough about where to start with this. Any advice would be appreciated. For a Suzuki GS, you need go no further than http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/index.php For more varied brand coverage, try http://classicujm.forumakers.com/
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2011 15:25
|
|
|
I have a bike I'm looking to get rid of and I'm not sure what to do. Basically, some of you may remember, I bought a functional '82 XJ650 a couple years ago. Unfortunately I've barely gotten to ride it at all. It breaks down so much, it runs for maybe a week or two and then there's a new problem cropping up. I happily fixed the problems as they came up initially, but I'm fatigued now. I don't want to go through another year of always fixing, never riding. I got the bike for $600 off craigslist, but it was running then. From where I'm standing I see my options as: 1) Try to sell as nonfunctional on craigslist ("project bike"?) 2) Try to find someone I know to give it to 3) Donate it to a charity who takes non functional bikes I'm leaning towards 3, but if I do get rid of it I probably won't be getting another bike for a while, so I'm a little hesitant to just get rid of it.  First bike, etc.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2011 17:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 16:02 |
|
|
I took my tank off yesterday, and when I did, I noticed that my drain tube wasn't draining the fuel. When I removed the little nozzle that the tube connects to, it was completely clogged with a white powdery substance. I can't rule out that the path of the drain that lies inside the tank isn't similarly clogged. My main fuel lines seemed just fine. Is this a serious issue? How would I best go about cleaning those lines that are inside the tank? Edit: Well, I discovered that the "drain" valve isn't for draining the tank, it's to catch excess gas that might overflow when filling up. I checked the tube and all is well. AhhYes fucked around with this message at 03:34 on May 3, 2011 |
|
#
?
May 2, 2011 20:28
|
|
