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tonedef131 posted:I've had my Comanche for about 7 years and I love it more than anyone loves their children. I have also replaced everything outside of the engine block, transmission and rear axle...so if you aren't into working on your own vehicles you may want to pass. I've done a shitload of work on the Cherokee but I have to admit I am getting tired of wrenching. Probably gonna pass on it.
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May 25, 2011 03:16
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I have a potentially retarded and cred-shredding question. Seemingly-suddenly (it was after my dad borrowed the Jeep to go surfing in a remote location, the jerk) my interior light doesn't come on when I open the door anymore. I can turn it on manually obviously, but it doesn't come on automatically like it used to. What is the deal with that?! I had a look in the manual but I couldn't seem to find the info I wanted. If anyone could help that'd be pretty excellent, thanks. In January during the Queensland floods (my town was one of those pretty badly flooded towns you saw on the news maybe) a massive python made a little home in my footwell whilst I was airing it out and I only noticed when I was halfway to the hardware shop. And by noticed, I mean it decided my right leg was a threat and decided to wrap itself around my leg and constrict hard. Soooo, the light is pretty important actually.
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May 25, 2011 03:30
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tonedef131 posted:...so if you aren't into working on your own vehicles you may want to pass. I knew almost nothing before my Wrangler and learned everything I know (not a lot) from working on it. Sharks Below posted:I have a potentially retarded and cred-shredding question. Seemingly-suddenly (it was after my dad borrowed the Jeep to go surfing in a remote location, the jerk) my interior light doesn't come on when I open the door anymore. I can turn it on manually obviously, but it doesn't come on automatically like it used to. What is the deal with that?! I had a look in the manual but I couldn't seem to find the info I wanted. did you check the door jamb switch that activates when the door closes? could be stuck with mud/water/whatever Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 12:46 on May 25, 2011 |
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May 25, 2011 12:44
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commissargribb posted:I knew almost nothing before my Wrangler and learned everything I know (not a lot) from working on it. Or he pulled the connector behind the switch.
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May 25, 2011 13:07
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commissargribb posted:I knew almost nothing before my Wrangler and learned everything I know (not a lot) from working on it.
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May 25, 2011 14:03
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tonedef131 posted:They force you to learn fast too since things seem to break constantly. In my case, I've been running into mostly A) parts that break because they're OEM stock from 1987 and gently caress that's old and B) parts that break because they're the PO's lovely cheap fixes that never should have been used. Given that I JUST replaced the original 1987 automatic tranny the other month, I think she's handled the miles well. Other than the rough ride (need a new suspension/shocks) the loud engine (header gasket needs to be replaced) and a myriad of small problems (ex: just fixed the glove box), I'm doing pretty well. Edit: now that I mention it, I should post some pics of my glove box fix I used a coat hanger
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May 26, 2011 01:51
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I know I shouldn't get excited - since FOURTEEN XJ's have now fallen through or not been as advertised - but I just found a '92 with 108k. 4-door Cherokee Sport. Has an auto tranny and a bit of surface rust on one door. If this works out (and oh god I hope it does), how hard is an auto-to-manual trans swap if I decide to do it down the road? edit: Carfax is clean as hell. Price is good. WISH ME LUCK, SIRS! (also, suggest a vanity plate for a Forest Green Cherokee Sport) FreelanceSocialist fucked around with this message at 02:32 on May 26, 2011 |
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May 26, 2011 02:10
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commissargribb posted:I knew almost nothing before my Wrangler and learned everything I know (not a lot) from working on it. I'm surprised and pleased to tell you that yes I did check that! It doesn't work with either door. I should probably just google it.
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May 26, 2011 02:47
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My Jeep is funny. Just today I was sitting on my couch and thought to myself "you know, it's been a few weeks since my check engine light came on". Sure enough it loving came on an hour later when I ran to the store. I just bought a cheap $30 OBD II scan tool on Amazon. I am so sick of driving 20 miles to an Auto Zone to have them pull my codes every other week. I don't know why the on-off-on-off-on-off key trick doesn't work on my 99 XJ to show me the codes. I'm willing to bet money that I will never get a check engine light again though now that I bought a scanner.
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May 26, 2011 03:00
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Kibblesnbits posted:
Good luck! also: GOONJEEP ornery owl posted:I just bought a cheap $30 OBD II scan tool on Amazon. I am so sick of driving 20 miles to an Auto Zone to have them pull my codes every other week. I don't know why the on-off-on-off-on-off key trick doesn't work on my 99 XJ to show me the codes. I'm willing to bet money that I will never get a check engine light again though now that I bought a scanner. I've got one that interfaces with my laptop. I haven't used it in months though because I just got rid of my only vehicle that uses OBD II and nobody else has needed it. It's seriously a great investment though. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 03:48 on May 26, 2011 |
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May 26, 2011 03:46
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Finished putting my rear fender flares on last weekend and thought I'd post a pic. These are the Napier Precision V2 fender flares for the 97+ XJ.  Now I need to get the hell out of LA for a weekend and get some trail time.
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May 26, 2011 05:40
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XJs that don't see salt look so pretty  *lives in Canada, where rockers get eaten away in one winter* 
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May 26, 2011 14:45
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Sharp_angus posted:XJs that don't see salt look so pretty I just tried to get "FKNACL" or "H8NACL" as plates but the DMV said no 
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May 26, 2011 15:17
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My 96 XJ has the cancer. The rockers have been going since I bought it three years ago, and now the rear fender/fender area's starting up. It is what it is. I'll drive the truck until it dies, I got it for $1800. But seriously gently caress rust. Every time I see a pic of a non-rusted XJ I get so jealous. If it wasn't for salt I'd actually invest money in fixing this thing up and making it look nice.
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May 26, 2011 16:09
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Ok goons I need some help. I drive an '03 Wrangler and have a nagging issue that seems to come and go. Every once in a while the whole vehicle will start to wobble really violently and it seems to be related to certain speeds, so that if I slow back down the wobbling stops. It's not something that happens every time I drive it, but obviously something I need to address. The wobbling happens most often between 40-45 mph, but every once in a while it happens around 65ish. I've checked the tire pressures they seem ok, I've tightened the lug nuts on my tires, hell I even had them rotated and no dice. Any suggestions? I've owned the vehicle for 5 years now and it started doing this about a year ago. I've never had any accidents in it and using 4WD seems to eliminate the issue, but I don't want to have to drive around in 4WD.
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May 26, 2011 19:29
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Unzip and Attack posted:Ok goons I need some help. I drive an '03 Wrangler and have a nagging issue that seems to come and go. Every once in a while the whole vehicle will start to wobble really violently and it seems to be related to certain speeds, so that if I slow back down the wobbling stops. It's not something that happens every time I drive it, but obviously something I need to address. The wobbling happens most often between 40-45 mph, but every once in a while it happens around 65ish. I've checked the tire pressures they seem ok, I've tightened the lug nuts on my tires, hell I even had them rotated and no dice. Any suggestions? And you really shouldn't drive regularly in 4WD. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwiv23dLhMY Is this the problem you have?
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May 26, 2011 19:58
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commissargribb posted:And you really shouldn't drive regularly in 4WD. Well, I've never seen it from an exterior view but it seems like this could be it. The sound in the video is pretty spot-on. I also have a 4 inch lift and 35" tires - a buddy of mine said that it's probably an issue with the tires but I wanted to check here before taking it in. I bought the vehicle with the kit already on it. A mechanic buddy of mine came with me to test drive it and gave it a thumbs up so I purchased it. The vehicle ran fine for 4 years and still runs fine 99% of the time. VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV Unzip and Attack fucked around with this message at 20:52 on May 26, 2011 |
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May 26, 2011 20:04
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I'm blown away by people that get 4" lifts and don't know what death wobble is. How did you put that on without ever hearing about what can happen? 
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May 26, 2011 20:47
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It's my understanding that death wobble is correctable. I've never researched the topic though.
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May 27, 2011 01:28
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I think there was another person with death wobble in this thread a few pages back, but I'll repost the basic order for troubleshooting it:
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May 27, 2011 02:27
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I thought a transfer case lowering kit was the go-to solution for death wobble.
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May 27, 2011 04:40
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Shubs posted:I thought a transfer case lowering kit was the go-to solution for death wobble. Its a problem with the steering.
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May 27, 2011 06:03
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A large part of the problem with any lifted vehicle is that you effectively move the axle through an arc, not just straight down, when you lift the chassis. This cancels out (or in really extreme cases, reverses) the castor angle, which makes for things like a lack of self-centring and wobbles. On a leaf-sprung truck, you can use wedges between the spring and axle to clock the axle back to the correct angle, whereas on a coil-sprung setup the bushes can be replaced by eccentric ones, installed at precisely the correct offsets. You can also get kits for both that include castor-corrected geometry straight off the bat. Now, because doing this is rotating the angle of the axle, it has the effect of moving the diff flange down slightly - this has its own issues, such as propshaft length and the angle the UJs are running at - the latter generating some very interesting characteristics itself. Mild changes may not have a noticeable impact, and you can resolve the situation with a double-carden propshaft*. However, Shubs is actually correct, you can also compensate for the changed diff nose position by lowering the transfer case to bring the diff, shaft and output flange back to their original relative positions. It's not a cure for death wobble, but it is part of the full elimination process. *On a standard propshaft, the joints run at equal angles either end, cancelling out the geometry changes they experience as the assembly rotates. On a double-carden design, these two joints are at one end (usually the TC), and the joint at the other end (usually diff) should be aligned straight with the propshaft under normal load and running conditions.
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May 27, 2011 15:15
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speaking of lifts: I want to lift my wrangler and I'm considering doing it myself with something like this. http://www.quadratec.com/products/16110_008.htm?sgsc=QSHOPGBASE&utm_medium=compshop&utm_source=googlemerchant The purpose of which is to get some clearance underneath for driving on trails and flexibility in tire selection.
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May 27, 2011 16:14
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Good choice. If you break anything (except shocks) of Black Diamond's, ever, irregardless of the circumstances, they'll replace it for free.
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May 27, 2011 16:24
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I added some stuff on my Wrangler today: I've been meaning to install this somewhere and it ended up going into the windshield frame. I'll be using it to hold my droid and it should be easier to skip songs in pandora/get GPS/phone hands free with it attached rather than dangling in my center console.  I had been trying to figure out a place to store my jerry can mount that I liked. I've got it bolted in here now but after installing it decided that I want to add a footman loop to the cowling above the can so that I can strap in more securely. Until then, I'll be driving around with it empty. Philip J Fry posted:Good choice. If you break anything (except shocks) of Black Diamond's, ever, irregardless of the circumstances, they'll replace it for free. Awesome! I'll have to remember that.
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May 27, 2011 22:54
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This may sounds really generic, but here goes. A guy at work describes the following problem on his late 70s Jeep (will prob. have to get some specifics. Still has a mechanical fuel pump since that was brought up in the convo). Whenever he fills it up beyond 1/4 tank, it "runs like a bag of rear end". He says it's been this way for the past 15+ years and keeping it below 1/4 tank prevents the issue from ever coming up. I was baffled at the "full tank fucks the Jeep" bit. I didn't even know where to tell him to start poking.
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May 28, 2011 00:33
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Maybe an issue with the tank vent hose(s)? A clogged or poorly functioning hose could cause feeding issues if the fuel pump cannot overcome the pressure differential that is generated as a full tank is drawn down.
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May 28, 2011 00:45
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Sockington posted:This may sounds really generic, but here goes. Sounds like a problem with the air/fuel mixture. Maybe because the fuel pump floods the carb when the tank is over 1/4 tank? That's just my best guess. Maybe try a pressure step down between the pump and the carb?
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May 28, 2011 00:46
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Kibblesnbits posted:Maybe an issue with the tank vent hose(s)? A clogged or poorly functioning hose could cause feeding issues if the fuel pump cannot overcome the pressure differential that is generated as a full tank is drawn down. One thing he did mention is that he tried running with no fuel cap to release any pressure. He said it made no difference on how the truck ran. Maybe I should suggest installing a fuel pressure gauge between the fuel pump and the carb. Tell him to check it before filling up and after?
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May 28, 2011 02:35
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Sockington posted:One thing he did mention is that he tried running with no fuel cap to release any pressure. He said it made no difference on how the truck ran. Check for siphoning. Keep the carb the highest point in the system...
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May 28, 2011 11:31
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http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540994
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May 28, 2011 23:05
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540994 Part of me wants to hate this.
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May 29, 2011 02:07
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I used to own an '00 Wrangler that I absolutely loved. Six months ago I sold it and purchased an '09 JK X. There's some differences I've been wanting to clear up between my '00 and '09 (I don't know much about cars), so I figured I'd ask this thread. First of all, the stick shift in my '09 is very rigid and can be difficult to move. Is this a standard change to the JK's or should I see a mechanic about it? It's not undrivable by any means but it's still kind of annoying even after driving it for six months. I thought the '09 (6 cylinder) would have better acceleration than my '00 4 cylinder, but this thing can't accelerate for jack. My '00 could be suprisingly zippy if I floored it, but the '09 can't get anywhere near what the '00 could. I know Wranglers aren't for speed hah, but it's been a little disapointing. Why is it that the 6 cylinder accelerates considerably slower than the 4? And is anyone else annoyed by the slope and direction of the gas pedal in the JK's? It now points rightward of the brake instead of parallel and has a shallower slope than the brake as well. I still haven't gotten used to it after six months. It always causes me to have very bumpy starts since I expect the gas pedal to be way closer to me than where it actually is. Instead of just moving over parallel to the right, now you must move to the right, angle further to the right, and move your foot downward, all just to get to the surface of the gas pedal from the brake. I've stalled way more on this '09 than I should simply due to the gas pedal placement, I virtually never ever stalled with my '00. All this being said I still love the '09. I frequently drive on rough roads and this thing is a beast.
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May 30, 2011 19:36
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kid indies posted:
My 4.2L I6 has poo poo for a top speed (I think the fastest I've ever made it go was 85 mph) but can have surprising pickup in low speed.
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May 30, 2011 21:31
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On paper the 3.8 has a little bit more HP than the 4.0, but delivers the brunt of its torque at higher RPM's -- where it's the most useless in a Jeep, really -- while the 4.0 and 2.5 deliver it in the lower range. JK's are also several hundred pounds heavier than TJ's. Your 2.5L also came stock with 4.10 gears while I think the non-Rubicon JK's come with 3.21 or 3.73 (except for '07 when an optionl 4.10 towing package was available).
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May 30, 2011 21:56
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My 11 JK has the same thing going. Not bad, but I am getting used to it.
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May 30, 2011 21:58
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I'm going to buy a mid-90s Cherokee as a way to learn about cars and have a 4x4 vehicle for the weekends. Unfortunately I know very little about cars, especially the different things that can be done with Jeeps. Is there a primer on things like lifts and such?
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May 30, 2011 22:54
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Iron Squid posted:I'm going to buy a mid-90s Cherokee as a way to learn about cars and have a 4x4 vehicle for the weekends. Unfortunately I know very little about cars, especially the different things that can be done with Jeeps. Is there a primer on things like lifts and such? Get this book and read it. http://www.amazon.com/High-Performance-Cherokee-Builders-1984-2001-Design/dp/1932494146
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May 30, 2011 23:03
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That's probably the best book you can get for XJ's as it was written by an enthusiast and not some pro mechanic or engineer. They're also dead-simple to work on, random electrical gremlins aside.
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May 30, 2011 23:29
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