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Hand guards, what is the difference between straight and bent?
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May 25, 2011 07:14
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Gom Jabbar posted:Hand guards, what is the difference between straight and bent? A few degrees.
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May 25, 2011 13:22
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Don Music posted:I find its when I'm trying to change gear too fast, like, hitting the gear lever the second the clutch is in, so that I'm essentially changing the gears when there is no drop in RPM, if I pull the lever in, give it a second for the revs to drop to a normal-ish level, it goes back to a normal click. Perhaps the clutch wire needs tightening? Gom Jabbar posted:Hand guards, what is the difference between straight and bent? Bent hand guards is like this:  Straight is like this: 
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May 25, 2011 13:26
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No no no no no Bent:  Straight: 
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May 25, 2011 20:40
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Synonamess Botch posted:OK, that explains a lot. I never had a stock petcock hence my confusion. Once again I appreciate it. You may be happy to know the bike is back together and running, but bogging down on WOT. I'm going to try this other carb here and fix a couple other niggles and I should be back on the road yaaay Update, I tried the other carb and it barely runs, so it looks like I'm going to have to go with the original carb. Here's the deal:
It seems to be only at 100% throttle, 99% is fine. So I don't think the jet is the wrong size but uh I'm not sure what the solution would be. I'm only really good at cleaning carbs and putting them back together v  v but it is all in working order near as I can tell. Would it help if I turned the main jet in or out or something?
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May 25, 2011 23:24
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Hop on thumpertalk, and search for the jetting settings for your carb setup, compare those to what you've got now, and see how far off you are. Once you know that your carbs are in the ballpark, start checking other stuff. Also, check for air leaks. Those carbs are a bitch to install.
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May 26, 2011 00:14
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Bogging at WOT sounds like the main jet to me. http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/Photos/CarbnJetPhotos/RejetRange.jpg
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May 26, 2011 03:15
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n8r posted:Bogging at WOT sounds like the main jet to me. Yeah on further consideration you're probably right. How can I tell if it's too rich or too lean?
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May 26, 2011 03:49
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Suzuki V-Strom 650 My chain tension is uneven. Whenever the (master?) link is wrapped around the front or rear sprocket, the chain is about 1" tighter. I never noticed this until I was coming back from a interstate trip through Utah and Nevada though a bunch of heat and dust so I concluded that the chain got unevenly stretched from not being taken care of enough in that environment. So, I'm going to get my chain replaced and I have a couple questions. I read a guide which suggested banging out the pins with a punch while the chain is on the rear sprocket. This just sounds dangerous to me. Don't you risk bending the sprocket? Also, when the chain is tight I hear a slight grinding from the front sprocket when I'm turning it. Is this just the chain binding on the sprocket from the tension or is there some bearing here that I need to worry about? This is with the bike on center stand freewheeling in neutral. There's a good chance I'll just take it to the shop since I don't think I'll replace chains often enough to own a good chain tool kit, but I wanted to see what I'm getting into. Is it a bitch? I've worked with #25 chain and it wasn't too difficult (smaller than bike chain, non-o ring).
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May 26, 2011 07:04
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Synonamess Botch posted:Yeah on further consideration you're probably right. How can I tell if it's too rich or too lean? Find the recommended settings on TT, seriously. Eddie is the man for drz stuff, and he's posted jetting recommendations for just about every drz config available.
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May 26, 2011 07:05
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Have you double-checked that that adjusters are on the same settings either side of the swinger (with axle nut tight)? Stating the obvious perhaps, but if one is off you will end up with what looks like a tight spot. As far as chain removal, if you're having your chain replaced, presumably you don't need to worry. If you are doing it yourself, you would use a m/c specific chain tool rather than loving around with a hammer. darknrgy posted:Suzuki V-Strom 650
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May 26, 2011 07:12
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Saga posted:Have you double-checked that that adjusters are on the same settings either side of the swinger (with axle nut tight)? Stating the obvious perhaps, but if one is off you will end up with what looks like a tight spot. I go off tick marks on the swingarm for adjustment so I'm pretty sure it's even. I played around with adjustment quite a bit and it always behaved the same way. Big jump in tension when the master link is on either sprocket. I checked the links in this area and they all seemed nice and loose. This is after a good cleaning and liberal lubing. The chain doesn't fit snugly around the sprocket in this area too.
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May 26, 2011 07:28
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When you replace the chain replace the sprockets too. Unless they are near new you will get accelerated wear. Those tick marks on the swing arm tend not to be accurate as well.
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May 26, 2011 07:36
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Did you put the chain on? I assume not but it's hard to tell from your post info. It's definitely possible to put a master link on too tight and thus it will bind up. If you do need a chain tool harbor freight sells one for like 10 bucks. It will remove rivets as well as rivet them back on. Master links are like $1.50, if you determine your ML to be too tight you could either try to loosen it back up by prying it apart a bit (not recommended) or you could just replace the ML itself. It sounds for sure though like your ML is too tight. This won't play a real big role in tension when it's on the free part of the chain but I could see it making a difference when the ML is on the sprocket. Also, you should double check that your adjusters are accurate. They may not be getting your tire completely "square" or even on the swingarm regardless of what the marks say.
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May 26, 2011 07:39
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I've never replaced the chain before and I am unsure how many miles the chain has. This is a riveted master link, right?  hm looks like there might be rust there I will inspect again tomorrow. Try the adjustment in more positions, check that link for binding, etc. If I can get a functional chain tool for $10 that's starting to sound appealing. I have a dremel for grinding. It'd be great if just fixing that one link would resolve. The chain seems clean and shiny and fine other than the tension thing. I read about two methods for truing up your rear tire - tape measure from the swingarm hinge and some string method that sounds wacky. Is there a better way?
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May 26, 2011 10:25
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I use the string method, never seen the tape so I can't compare. As long as the center stand isn't in the way, the string thing works perfectly.
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May 26, 2011 10:58
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Anyone ever shipped a motorcycle (in Europe)? I am relocating to England for work, and my Russian Iron won't even come close to making the 3000km+ trip. So, I've got to box that bitch up. I assume I can just drain the fuel and have a moving company come, crate it up and put it in the back of a truck.
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May 26, 2011 14:14
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Ugh... riding around yesterday I glance down at my speedo and suddenly it drops to 0. I'm getting no function in the speedo, the odometer or the trip meter. I am going to take it off but I was wondering if it is most likely an internal gear problem or a problem with the wheel assembly. Any suggestions?
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May 26, 2011 15:09
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For future reference, if you get a nail in a tire with an innertube is it ok to just replace the tube, or do you need to replace the tire and the tube? Also, my front brake is now making a whiring sound whenever I hit it. Braking power seems normal, but the noise is a little worrisome crazyivan45 fucked around with this message at 15:25 on May 26, 2011 |
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May 26, 2011 15:21
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Errant Gin Monks posted:Ugh... riding around yesterday I glance down at my speedo and suddenly it drops to 0. I'm getting no function in the speedo, the odometer or the trip meter. I am going to take it off but I was wondering if it is most likely an internal gear problem or a problem with the wheel assembly. If your bike's like mine, speed's measured with a mechanical cable on the front wheel. If this is not the case, someone smarter than me has a better explanation.
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May 26, 2011 15:59
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crazyivan45 posted:Also, my front brake is now making a whiring sound whenever I hit it. Braking power seems normal, but the noise is a little worrisome It is the back of the pad rubbing against the caliper. It doesn't damage anything, just annoying. Put a bit of (copper?)grease between the pad and the caliper if you want it gone. Try to not get any grease on the brake discs though.  OR it might be that your brake blocks are worn to the metal and need replacing immediately.
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May 26, 2011 16:05
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Errant Gin Monks posted:Ugh... riding around yesterday I glance down at my speedo and suddenly it drops to 0. I'm getting no function in the speedo, the odometer or the trip meter. I am going to take it off but I was wondering if it is most likely an internal gear problem or a problem with the wheel assembly. Check your negative on your battery, if loose it will produce that.
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May 26, 2011 16:31
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Errant Gin Monks posted:Ugh... riding around yesterday I glance down at my speedo and suddenly it drops to 0. I'm getting no function in the speedo, the odometer or the trip meter. I am going to take it off but I was wondering if it is most likely an internal gear problem or a problem with the wheel assembly. What is the year and model of your bike? crazyivan45 posted:For future reference, if you get a nail in a tire with an innertube is it ok to just replace the tube, or do you need to replace the tire and the tube? You can just replace/patch the tube, as long as there's not severe damage to the tire (ie. cords showing).
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May 26, 2011 16:44
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Z3n posted:What is the year and model of your bike? 2004 Honda Shadow VLX I'm pretty sure its mechanical as it has pictures of gears and linkages in the front wheel assembly in the manual.
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May 26, 2011 16:51
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KARMA! posted:It is the back of the pad rubbing against the caliper. It doesn't damage anything, just annoying. Put a bit of (copper?)grease between the pad and the caliper if you want it gone. Bike only has 1500 miles on it. Checked the pads and they look like they still have plenty of life left in them. They used to squeal but after doing some research it looks like thats par for the course, as there are countless posts about people complaining about front brake squeal (2009 vulcan 500)
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May 26, 2011 16:55
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Any recommendations for a decent, cheap(ish) rear motorcycle stand?
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May 26, 2011 17:22
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T-rex stands are pretty good for the money. I found a whole set on craigslist for 40 dollars, so deals are definitely out there.
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May 26, 2011 17:24
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Spydre posted:Any recommendations for a decent, cheap(ish) rear motorcycle stand? Harbor Freight carries one that I've been using with no problems at all. Just don't miss the peg when trying to put it up by yourself and scratch up your swingarm  .
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May 26, 2011 18:22
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Errant Gin Monks posted:2004 Honda Shadow VLX Almost 100% it's a broken speedo cable. Remove and check it. Spydre posted:Any recommendations for a decent, cheap(ish) rear motorcycle stand? Find one on CL...failing that, Trex stands are ok, but not great.
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May 26, 2011 19:34
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Local shop has started stocking these: They want $100 for it. The description is a bit poor. I suppose it only breaks the bead, can you use it for removing the tire from the rim as well? Any assistance in mounting? If it's a one trick pony it seems a bit expensive and bulky without doing more parts of the job.
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May 26, 2011 20:54
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That bar in the center is used in conjunction with a no-mar bar or something equivalent to remove the tire from inside the rim. At least it is on other machines. That one looks a bit flimsier than pro ones I've seen but it'd probably work. Especially for 100 bucks. Don't expect it to last or hold up to abuse though.
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May 26, 2011 21:35
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How is the rim prevented from spinning?
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May 26, 2011 21:48
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Oh boy, here we go. Bought an '89 Suzuki GS500E a month and a half ago, and been riding it pretty much daily when the weather's nice enough. Just changed the oil on it on last Friday, and now it sounds like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AcMOShs9GI (careful with volume, I recorded on my phone so it might be a bit loud.) GSTwins forum says that cam chain tensioner rattle is a common thing on these, but that sound is apparently just on idle and slightly off idle and goes away after. This sound is apparent throughout the rev range, and overshadows the exhaust note. I'm quite concerned with riding it anymore, and want to know if it is as bad as it sounds like it is... 
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May 26, 2011 23:29
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Dschingis Khan posted:Oh boy, here we go. Did you use the same weight of oil that was in it before? Changing the weight will make engine noise more prominent in most cases. I nearly poo poo the bed when I switched from 15w-50 to 10w-40 and the valves on my triumph sounded like they were going to fly out at any second.
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May 26, 2011 23:50
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SaNChEzZ posted:Did you use the same weight of oil that was in it before? Changing the weight will make engine noise more prominent in most cases. I nearly poo poo the bed when I switched from 15w-50 to 10w-40 and the valves on my triumph sounded like they were going to fly out at any second. Did it sound anything like that? I think I may have changed weight from 10w40 to 10w30, but I guess I didn't think it'd get that crazy loud from just that. I mean, to me it sounds like theres a bolt rattling around inside the motor itself! edit: I should add that there is no apparent power loss or anything whilst riding, nor hesitation of any kind, if that helps. Bring Back Noid fucked around with this message at 00:01 on May 27, 2011 |
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May 26, 2011 23:54
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Dschingis Khan posted:Did it sound anything like that? I think I may have changed weight from 10w40 to 10w30, but I guess I didn't think it'd get that crazy loud from just that. Well it went from not being able to hear it to sounding like they were out in the open, so the change was very pronounced. I'm not 100% sure that's what it is, but after simply changing the oil and not messing with anything else that's my guess.
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May 27, 2011 00:18
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I am signed up for a motorcycle license class (beginner level) through the great State of Illinois. It is a 3 day class and at the end I am supposed to have passed the test and will have my motorcycle license. I'm kind of nervous and a little scared because the last time I rode a motorcycle was ~10 years ago and it was a dirt bike on my farm. I don't even remember how to shift gears outside of hold in the clutch, move your foot up to shift up one gear, then let out of the clutch. I feel like I might be missing something there though. If anyone has taken a class like this, what can I expect when we start getting on the bikes on Saturday? All that the class description gives is either classroom or riding, so I'm hoping that since it says beginner we start at the very beginning and go over shifting and stuff as opposed to the instructor thinking we've all ridden before and don't need to go over the very basics. poo poo, maybe I'm getting worried over nothing but I haven't been able to find someone that took a course like this and can tell me what to expect.
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May 27, 2011 04:34
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I took the class in IL. Friday, you will sit in class and go over administrative stuff and some basics. Saturday will be a mix of class and practice. The first thing you do is learn to walk the bike around. The second thing you do is practice the clutch with your feet on the ground, rocking back and forth. It moves slowly from there. Cannot get more basic. I'd go over more details, but it's seriously geared to people who haven't seen a bike before. Go and enjoy yourself!
Uthor fucked around with this message at 04:44 on May 27, 2011 |
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May 27, 2011 04:42
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As long as you can ride a bicycle and you keep your cool. They really teach you everything. Edit: By keep your cool I mean you don't freak the gently caress out when you make a mistake, that was one of two people who didn't pass the class. one took herself out early, the other locked up on a U-turn and dropped it, no damage to bike or rider, but he didn't feel comfortable after that. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 07:17 on May 27, 2011 |
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May 27, 2011 06:08
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Ola posted:Local shop has started stocking these: Looks to be a fancy bead breaker and nothing more. There's no way to secure the wheel to the... 'apparatus' to assist in removing the tire. Save your money
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May 27, 2011 06:18
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