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Elendil004 posted:I think I asked before, but I've got a `00 GS500E, and it looks like the speedometer is connected to the left side of the front wheel...my speedo's off by about 8-10% (it ready 70, I'm going 60ish). Aside from mounting a GPS, is there a way to get a more accurate speedo? It's not a big deal, it's just really annoying to have to do the math in my head each time. I read about an ingenious solution to this which involved using the original gauge needle against a modded background. It involved replacing your gauge face plate. This was specifically for the V-Strom which has a consistent, known error - some guy just fabbed a bunch of custom plates for sale. Search around for something similar for your bike because I bet is has the same problem, both suzuki. The other options - electrical mods and mechanical mods to the sensor are a bit more daunting and will end up throwing your mileage off. On the V-Strom, the mileage is supposedly accurate but the speedo is off by about 10%. Personally, I just ignore it as I just drive the speed which feels appropriate for the conditions. http://www.jackphelps.com/vstrom/speedoface.htm
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May 29, 2011 11:25
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Ducks posted:My bike has a few deep scratches so I picked up some touchup paint from Color Rite. Is there a secret to applying this paint for it to not look like poo poo? They match the paint colour specifically to my bike. I also bought primer and clearcoat. I haven't used the clearcoat yet as I want to put on a couple layers of the colour. The problem is that the brush strokes (brush is included with paint) really show and the spots where I painted the scratches just looks stupid. It isn't smooth and really doesn't blend well. Will clearcoat make much difference? Is there something I'm missing? So I've put on three coats of colour and this touch up paint looks really, really bad. In fact, the scratches look 10x better than the paint job I did. What is the best way to remove the touch up paint? I went "outside the lines" and have paint outside the scratch. I'm afraid to sand it because I might scuff the factory paint. I bought some 320 grit paper but I'm just really nervous with this whole thing. Is there an easy/reliable way to fix this or should I bring it to a body shop?
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May 29, 2011 17:00
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320 is way too coarse for finishing. You should be using 1000 grit at the least. But if you don't feel comfortable doing it, you're probably better off having a shop do it rather than make things worse.
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May 29, 2011 21:23
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New calipers on front with new-ish pads. Bled brakes. Even though the handle feels solid, braking power is very lacking. Is this a case of having to 'seat' the used pads or me not bleeding the brakes correctly? (pads have plenty of life left so that's why I'm not getting new ones)
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May 29, 2011 23:16
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KARMA! posted:New calipers on front with new-ish pads. Bled brakes. Even though the handle feels solid, braking power is very lacking. Take the pads off, sand them down on something flat (sandpaper on a glass sheet or window works well), and then go bed them in. Everyone has a different technique and way of doing it, I get on the freeway and drag the brake progressively harder for 10 seconds or so, and then let off for 30 seconds or so and repeat until they start to feel good, usually 3-6 repetitions is enough.
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May 29, 2011 23:44
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I passed my motorcycle license test  The only part I had a problem with was the 135 degree turn, because I went through it slower than they would have liked. I aced the box turns...in fact, when we were done with that the instructor came over and asked where americanzero was, then he goes "I hope you all watched, that was done very well. You could have done it in a box 4 feet smaller." That made me feel really good. I can't wait to go home and get my bike!
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May 30, 2011 17:23
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Z3n posted:Try choking it and seeing if that makes it better or worse. choking it made it better so I bumped it all the way down to clip pos. 5 and it ran smoothly but still sputters off idle. So I took a look at the accelerator pump since you mentioned it, and discovered the duration is around 3+ secs and it's spraying a lot of fuel. So I'm thinking that I need to do the BK mod. Before I start drilling my carb though, is that something that would be severe enough to cause it to die, or is it more appropriate for if it were stumbling a little bit? The TT guides don't really seem to mention it as a serious problem but just a bog... however at this point if it's not the AP then I'm at a loss 
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May 30, 2011 20:49
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Isn't there a version of the AP mod that's just an oring around the actuator arm?
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May 30, 2011 21:07
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Z3n posted:Isn't there a version of the AP mod that's just an oring around the actuator arm? Yeah the o-ring mod, I've already done that and the squirt duration is still 3-4 seconds despite, it is really awfully high. Apparently that's somewhat normal but it was recommended to set it at .3-.5 seconds and no more than about 1 sec for normal riding.
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May 30, 2011 21:20
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Synonamess Botch posted:Yeah the o-ring mod, I've already done that and the squirt duration is still 3-4 seconds despite, it is really awfully high. Apparently that's somewhat normal but it was recommended to set it at .3-.5 seconds and no more than about 1 sec for normal riding. So you say it's bogging directly off of idle? Have you tried just bumping the idle up a bit?
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May 30, 2011 21:27
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Z3n posted:Take the pads off, sand them down on something flat (sandpaper on a glass sheet or window works well), and then go bed them in. Everyone has a different technique and way of doing it, I get on the freeway and drag the brake progressively harder for 10 seconds or so, and then let off for 30 seconds or so and repeat until they start to feel good, usually 3-6 repetitions is enough. I scuffed up the pads and dis some hard braking, and they are starting to grab. Thanks! I also bled the system so more wich eeked out the tiniest of bubbles. One set of the used pads were worn in a wierd offset, but I'm getting a new set for it anyway. Thanks again for the advice. 
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May 30, 2011 21:55
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Z3n posted:So you say it's bogging directly off of idle? Have you tried just bumping the idle up a bit? Actually that does work but then the idle is very fast.
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May 30, 2011 21:56
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Have a new tail light but as it arrived it only had two wires out the back. I can only use it for brake or marker right now not both. It did come with an extra wire but i'm not certain what it's for. Maybe someone who can read Japanese can help?   here's a larger shot of the instructions http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3610/5778107129_e5be0bdd81_b.jpg titanium fucked around with this message at 00:50 on May 31, 2011 |
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May 31, 2011 00:45
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Synonamess Botch posted:Actually that does work but then the idle is very fast. What size pilot are you running vs. The recommended settings?
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May 31, 2011 01:08
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titanium posted:Have a new tail light but as it arrived it only had two wires out the back. I can only use it for brake or marker right now not both. It did come with an extra wire but i'm not certain what it's for. Maybe someone who can read Japanese can help? Do three wires come out of the stock tail light? You could use a resistor to make it a brake and marker. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 03:01 on May 31, 2011 |
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May 31, 2011 02:55
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BlackMK4 posted:Do three wires come out of the stock tail light? You could use a resistor to make it a brake and marker. Harness is setup for a 3rd wire. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to rig up on the same line to send more power at the light or not. That's my only guess. I might just have to take the hit and buy a light that has a 3 wire harness.
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May 31, 2011 04:12
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The third wire is ground, you attach it to the metal stud coming off the back, or make sure the case grounds to the frame.
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May 31, 2011 05:29
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mattmofob posted:The third wire is ground, you attach it to the metal stud coming off the back, or make sure the case grounds to the frame. The detached green wire, black wire, and red wire are all male connectors. The black wire is ground.
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May 31, 2011 15:28
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My brakes are going soft and I tried to bleed them today to firm things back up with no luck. I have a quick-bleeder (one-way valve)- I attached the bleeder, loosened the bleeder valve and pumped until there weren't any more air bubbles. However, there's still a lot of sponginess in the brake lever. Any suggestions?
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May 31, 2011 16:59
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I'm looking for a LED headlight setup for my motard. All the Acerbis ones look like retarded aliens. Does anyone have experience with a good reasonably price (<$150) LED headlight? The bike isn't going to see much if any night riding but I need a headlight to be legal. Almost thinking of sticking a flashlight or fog light on it like some of the guys do for their track bikes.
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May 31, 2011 17:01
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FormatAmerica posted:My brakes are going soft and I tried to bleed them today to firm things back up with no luck. New brake line(assuming it's not stainless), flush the system. There are a few things that can cause this, so just deal with all of them at once. V What he said V Bondematt fucked around with this message at 17:19 on May 31, 2011 |
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May 31, 2011 17:14
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FormatAmerica posted:My brakes are going soft and I tried to bleed them today to firm things back up with no luck. Remove the brake caliper(s), the brake reservoir top, remove the pads, clean the pistons thoroughly, and then force the pistons back in (make sure the ones you're not pushing don't pop out when you push one in). Sometimes that'll force any air up through the master cylinder. Following that, bleed the banjo bolts by applying pressure at the lever, cracking the banjo bolt, and tightening it again before the lever hits the bar. If it hisses or spits, you've got air in the line and need to keep doing it until it cleans up. Failing that, sounds like it's time for a caliper and MC rebuild. Nitrospaz, how about a Trailtech X2? Cheap if you're not doing any night riding in the normal version, and more expensive if you want HID/etc.
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May 31, 2011 17:16
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Z3n posted:Nitrospaz, how about a Trailtech X2? Cheap if you're not doing any night riding in the normal version, and more expensive if you want HID/etc.
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May 31, 2011 17:19
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NitroSpazzz posted:Forgot about trailtech. Would prefer LED instead of halogen for battery life but I'll look around, looks like they have some good stuff. Trailtech X2 + something like this?
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May 31, 2011 17:20
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Finally bought a cheap '06 DL650 with about 30k miles on it. I love the bike, it was great for the 8 hour ride home from Nebraska where I picked it up, but I noticed a couple things about the bike that I'm curious about: - The one tank of 100% highway riding at 80-85mph that I measured mileage got me only about 35mpg. I thought these bikes were supposed to get 50mpg or more, was this just due to the high speed? It did also have big luggage and a giant tall windscreen on. - Where going from neutral to 1st on my DRZ as slowly as possible would make it 'snap' in the instant it engaged, on this bike if you toe down slowly it will grind before going into gear. This necessitates a firm, quick shift into first. Is this normal or terrible? The 1 -> 2 shift also seems kind of loud, but this could just be me being used to my last bike.
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May 31, 2011 19:02
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I'm pretty certain that a DL650 is going to be geared for economy below 80. My vstar does a similar thing - 40mpg all day long until about 85mph, then the economy dips sharply. As for your gearbox, they all do weird poo poo. Your weird poo poo sounds pretty normal, I wouldn't worry about it
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May 31, 2011 19:07
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Man_of_Teflon posted:Finally bought a cheap '06 DL650 with about 30k miles on it. I love the bike, it was great for the 8 hour ride home from Nebraska where I picked it up, but I noticed a couple things about the bike that I'm curious about : Luggage and a big windscreen plus a high cruising speed could explain the loss in gas mileage. And yes, you should firmly shift into first. No slow/pussyfooting it.
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May 31, 2011 19:08
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Z3n posted:What size pilot are you running vs. The recommended settings? Running a 45 which is pretty standard. I fiddled around with the idle some more after riding it around and I got it to a point where it feels good. Occasionally when I come down to idle it will hang a little bit high and then come back down so I think it's still running a bit lean. I think it's because there's no airbox, just an individual filter. Going to back out fuel screw just a bit more when it cools down but it's running pretty smoothly so I'm happy with small victories.
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May 31, 2011 21:46
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Ahh, pod filter, that explains it. Probably could use to go a size richer on the pilot jet, but if it's close enough, just ride and enjoy
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May 31, 2011 22:10
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I've been really following MotoGP this season, and I noticed something. A lot of the riders take a foot off when heavy braking; what will end up being the inside foot. At first, I thought this was just an american dirtbike / flat track habit, but then I noticed Rossi and some others doing it. What's the advantage? It seems like it would unbalance you and throw off your braking, but so many of them do it.
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May 31, 2011 22:41
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Pagan posted:I've been really following MotoGP this season, and I noticed something. A lot of the riders take a foot off when heavy braking; what will end up being the inside foot. At first, I thought this was just an american dirtbike / flat track habit, but then I noticed Rossi and some others doing it. Lots of theories about it - but it's mostly just a fad. I think the theory is that maybe you can transfer weight a little bit easier? Who knows.
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May 31, 2011 23:16
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I think that they're showing off to the other riders. "So you think it hurts to squeeze your nuts into the tank under braking? Look at me, my nuts can take it! Raaaaaarrr! Making dents in the tank more like it, nnngghh!"
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Jun 1, 2011 00:11
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Does anyone know of a wheel size calculator that will show odometer difference? I hit 4k on the husky and am wondering how much that really is since it has all been on the stock computer set for dirt wheels. Edit: Also for my Fuelly mpg! Gnaghi fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Jun 1, 2011 |
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Jun 1, 2011 00:48
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Gnaghi posted:Does anyone know of a wheel size calculator that will show odometer difference? I hit 4k on the husky and am wondering how much that really is since it has all been on the stock computer set for dirt wheels. Not sure about a calculator, but all you need to do is: (current circumference / stock circumference) * mileage Edit: not sure if that helps since you have to figure out the circumference. You can figure out the current circumference by marking a spot on the wheel and moving it until the dot comes back around a few times, measure that distance, divide it by the number of rotations. darknrgy fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Jun 1, 2011 |
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Jun 1, 2011 01:23
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darknrgy posted:Not sure about a calculator, but all you need to do is: Thanks, that might help. I don't have anything for circular measurements, but I might be able to look it up. There are tons of specs in the manual.
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Jun 1, 2011 01:48
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Gnaghi posted:Thanks, that might help. I don't have anything for circular measurements, but I might be able to look it up. There are tons of specs in the manual. You could also measure from the axle to the road (axle height) and multiply by 2*pi (6.28).
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Jun 1, 2011 03:15
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I found a circumference to diameter calculator here. Looks like when I hit 4k it'll actually be only 3200, and 52mpg is actually 42.
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Jun 1, 2011 03:41
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:You could also measure from the axle to the road (axle height) and multiply by 2*pi (6.28). If youre dividing new circumference by stock circumference then you can just as well divide new height by stock height, the 2Pi just cancel eachother
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Jun 1, 2011 09:12
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I pulled my clutch cover case the other day to replace a leaky gasket and now my clutch seems to have stopped working. It'll pull in with the lever (zero resistance) but does not spring back into place when released and has to be manually moved. What did I gently caress up?
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Jun 1, 2011 21:37
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Ghostpilots posted:I pulled my clutch cover case the other day to replace a leaky gasket and now my clutch seems to have stopped working. It'll pull in with the lever (zero resistance) but does not spring back into place when released and has to be manually moved. What did I gently caress up? What bike?
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Jun 1, 2011 22:23
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