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BlueBayou posted:Havent ridden my bike (07 250 ninja) since Monday (which shouldn't be an issue, im just mentioning it).
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Jun 25, 2011 04:03
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KARMA! posted:Forks have something called an 'air chamber' in them. It is critical to have this chamber the exact size that the manual calls for. The more oil in the fork, the smaller the chamber. Check the chamber when you've installed the new springs and add/remove oil so the air chamber is at the correct size. The manual probably specifies this in millimeters measured from the top. Alright, thanks. Looks like I'll be heading to the dealer to buy some fork oil tomorrow.
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Jun 25, 2011 04:49
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Ola posted:So I take it your primary preference is a specific type of luggage rack? Hehe, I had a ventura rack on my SV650 so it's a minor consideration. However things didn't go to plan today. I went and had a look at the Monster and it looked even sexier in person and was awesome, right up until I sat on it and realised it was going to be too cramped for my liking. So then I did a silly thing and test road this:  That's my driveway it's parked in. I think I'm in love. The Ventura rack has been ordered 
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Jun 25, 2011 06:14
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Ah, you went behind door #3... and saw that it was wonderful.
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Jun 25, 2011 06:18
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NoDoorway posted:So then I did a silly thing and test road this:
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Jun 25, 2011 06:33
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BlackMK4 posted:I love when poo poo goes like that, my wallet does not lol. It's true. Although in this case it I got a fairly excellent deal. Both dealers I visited today had white street triples, a 2009 with about 17000km on the clock and a 2010 with 1800km. So it was "OK dealer guys, you each get to offer me a deal plus one counter offer best deal wins." They both really wanted the sale so I ended up getting the 2010 for not very much money (they gave me full retail trade in for my SV, discounted the sticker price and threw in some extras I wanted.) Stoked.
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Jun 25, 2011 06:41
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NoDoorway posted:The Ventura rack has been ordered Don't you dare put an ugly rack on that beautiful bike.
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Jun 25, 2011 07:45
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NoDoorway posted:Hehe, I had a ventura rack on my SV650 so it's a minor consideration.
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Jun 25, 2011 07:54
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^^Dooo eeet. jdonz posted:Don't you dare put an ugly rack on that beautiful bike. As I don't have a car the bike has to be fairly luggage capable. I absolutely hate the look of giant plastic top boxes, and the Ventura bags are like a tardis. Whilst I agree that it looks perfect just how it is, needs must in this case.
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Jun 25, 2011 07:57
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Sounds like fuel flow. Checked obvious stuff like petcock being on the right setting? Yeah. I waited a few hours and fired him up again.. no issues I feel like this is all stemming from when I ran out of gas two weeks ago and had to run on the reserve tank fora few blocks.
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Jun 25, 2011 08:00
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NoDoorway posted:^^Dooo eeet.
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Jun 25, 2011 08:11
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Oh very well done NoDoorway! There are a lot of soft luggage alternatives unless you have some bags already.
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Jun 25, 2011 10:54
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Got bags already, well bag. Ventura bags are ridiculously roomy.
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Jun 25, 2011 13:58
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polystyrus posted:Yeah, I went with -1. I have the Haynes manual (admittedly it only covers models up to '93), and I will excersise caution. Because sprockets coming off while moving sounds like a Very Bad Thing. Update: I've got the new chain and sprockets on (still haven't installed the tach cable, but it is in my possession). -1 seems to be the right choice. I think the bike has lost some horses over the years, and -1 on the front gives 5th gear something to do. Front sprocket has a lock washer on it. Last person to change the sprocket put it on, but didn't use it for some reason. It is now in use. Back sprocket has some locking bits on it, too. Would have been a hell of a lot easier if the bike still had a centre stand. Ended up manually leaning the bike against the side stand while my friend changed the sprocket on the rear wheel. I'm sure we could have rigged a stand of some kind, but meh, it worked.
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Jun 25, 2011 14:26
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Endless Mike posted:Haha, it's at least a year off and I need to clear one of the bikes out of my driveway first (the VFR). By then they may have angry eyes.
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Jun 25, 2011 16:54
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I like the new look better than the old! My K5 SV650 came with a set of Vortex clip-ons installed on the GSXR-1000 forks. They're doing a number to my lower back. I looked up Vortex's website and they don't offer risers, unlike Woodcraft. Is there a way to get them to rise 2 or so inches outside replacing the clipon assembly altogether? the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Jun 25, 2011 |
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Jun 25, 2011 17:48
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the walkin dude posted:I like the new look better than the old! Nope. Convertibars are the nice solution but expensive...stock gsxr clipons have some rise to them if you want a cheap option. Some other options are covered here: http://www.gregoryli.com/2007/06/gsx-r-front-end-swap-parts.html
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Jun 25, 2011 18:23
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Will WD-40 really damage the O-rings on my chain? If so, is there any reason to use kerosene when I have perfectly good gasoline already? Am I a fool who will destroy his chain by not using a ten dollar specialty cleaner?
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Jun 25, 2011 21:44
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I've never heard of WD-40 damaging O-rings outright, but the problem is it's not a lubricant. I use kerosene to clean my chain, diesel works too, I wouldn't use gas at all for it.
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Jun 25, 2011 23:58
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Loucks posted:Will WD-40 really damage the O-rings on my chain? If so, is there any reason to use kerosene when I have perfectly good gasoline already? Am I a fool who will destroy his chain by not using a ten dollar specialty cleaner? Don't do this. I was in your shoes exactly (reading how bad WD-40 is and used gasoline instead). Well I pretty much destroyed the chain on two bikes (one of which I still have to replace) because of the gasoline. Use WD-40 for cleaning, it's fine and awesome, then throw on some bel-ray chain wax for lube. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345397
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Jun 26, 2011 00:03
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BlueBayou posted:Yeah.
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Jun 26, 2011 00:55
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If I'm going -1/+2, do I have to get a chain with more/less links than stock?
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Jun 26, 2011 05:34
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My friend asked me to pick up his new-to-him '10 Ninja 250 which is 5 hours away. I'm used to riding my SV and I don't think 5 hours is pushing it but I've never been on a Ninjette before. Is this a good idea? Keep in mind I'll be riding shotgun on the way there (and probably sleeping).
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Jun 26, 2011 05:40
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internet inc posted:My friend asked me to pick up his new-to-him '10 Ninja 250 which is 5 hours away. I'm used to riding my SV and I don't think 5 hours is pushing it but I've never been on a Ninjette before. Is this a good idea? Keep in mind I'll be riding shotgun on the way there (and probably sleeping). My buddy rode an 03 ZZR250 from BC to California.. I'm sure you'll do fine.
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Jun 26, 2011 05:42
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Clank posted:If I'm going -1/+2, do I have to get a chain with more/less links than stock? It'd probably fit on the stock chain, https://www.gearingcommander.com though.
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Jun 26, 2011 06:49
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BlackMK4 posted:It'd probably fit on the stock chain, https://www.gearingcommander.com though. Oh cool, that's useful. It says it will fit, I'll just have to move my wheel forward a bit.
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Jun 26, 2011 08:37
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Gnaghi posted:Don't do this. I was in your shoes exactly (reading how bad WD-40 is and used gasoline instead). Well I pretty much destroyed the chain on two bikes (one of which I still have to replace) because of the gasoline. Use WD-40 for cleaning, it's fine and awesome, then throw on some bel-ray chain wax for lube. There was another test I remember where the dude tested the breaking point of the o-rings after soaking them in various cleaners, he used a force gauge and measured how much force was needed to pull the rings apart. The rings soaked in WD-40 were dramatically weaker than the rings soaked in kerosene, so I'd say you should use kerosene to clean your chain. It's cheap and works the best, odor-free kerosene is the same thing as lamp oil and most barbecue starter fluids, it can be found everywhere.
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Jun 26, 2011 09:34
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Did he happen to test diesel?
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Jun 26, 2011 09:42
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KozmoNaut posted:There was another test I remember where the dude tested the breaking point of the o-rings after soaking them in various cleaners, he used a force gauge and measured how much force was needed to pull the rings apart. Walmart typically has kerosene in their camping sections for cheap. I find kerosene works great but a brush and rag only gets so much grime off. A propelled cleaner, aerosol or similar, helps clean poo poo out of the nooks and crannies.
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Jun 26, 2011 10:02
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Bondematt posted:Did he happen to test diesel? I can't remember, but most places I've read says to use kerosene or diesel, so I'd imagine you're ok using it.
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Jun 26, 2011 10:52
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Here's part 2 with load testing. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=350310 While WD-40 lost some strength, kerosene did too.
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Jun 26, 2011 11:52
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Ola posted:Here's part 2 with load testing. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=350310 I was actually surprised at how strong o-rings are. But it seems that the best option is actually just slathering the chain in chain lube and scrubbing to clean it. Kerosene and WD-40 are closer than I remembered, but there's still a significant difference.
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Jun 26, 2011 12:07
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Is there a good basic set of tools I should be looking at? I'll be in a position where I can start wrenching soon, so I'm going to do that. The obvious bits: Screwdriver set. Metric wrench set (I have a Metric bike). Metric socket set. What else?
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Jun 26, 2011 12:09
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Backov posted:Is there a good basic set of tools I should be looking at? I'll be in a position where I can start wrenching soon, so I'm going to do that. Torque wrench that fits your socket set. I think the highest torque you'll need on most bikes is 100nm/about 75lb-ft for the rear axle nut. But you can pretty much do that by feel, get one that's finer, they're much more accurate for the smaller more critical stuff. A shop manual for your bike should have all the values in it. Set of allen keys. Hex keys for your socket set will do in a pinch, but it's a lot more bulky than using normal allen keys. Impact screwdriver. Essential for getting out stuck bolts. Give 'em a blast of WD-40, let it soak and an impact screwdriver will get out even the most stubborn of screws. Rubber mallet (for the impact screwdriver). WD-40, threadlock and copper grease. Goes without saying, you'll be needing these more than you think. If it's a Japanese bike, a set of JIS screwdrivers. Pozidriv will undo JIS screws in a pinch, Phillips will chew them up instead. Vise grips or clamps for fixating things, pushing pistons back into brake calipers etc. Needle-nosed pliers for removing and putting back locking rings and the like. Buy cheap tools and get plenty of them, get the big sets of wrenches and screwdrivers and use the hell out of them. Whenever something breaks, replace it with a high-quality counterpart. That way, your most needed tools will be the highest quality, and you won't be wasting money on expensive tools that you'll never need. Of course, for things that you know right away that you'll use a lot, get the good stuff to start with. Socket wrench, torque wrench etc., basically for all the tools where the work face itself is interchangeable, you'll want to get a good quality tool to attach said work faces to. Oh yeah, one more thing. If you can swing it, a good size workbench with a solid vise. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 12:41 on Jun 26, 2011 |
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Jun 26, 2011 12:29
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Sorry for the newbie question, but do I need to buy a specific motorcycle tire pressure gauge? I tried using the one from my car and a digital one but neither seemed to give the right tire pressure. They both gave me around 13 psi, which I would guess is drat near flat (which the tire isn't).
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Jun 27, 2011 00:33
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The Senator Giroux posted:Sorry for the newbie question, but do I need to buy a specific motorcycle tire pressure gauge? I tried using the one from my car and a digital one but neither seemed to give the right tire pressure. They both gave me around 13 psi, which I would guess is drat near flat (which the tire isn't). You do not need a motorcycle specific gauge. Some fillers might be hard to get in place and give poor reading, but the hissing sound of leaking air should be enough warning in that case. 13 psi is still almost an atmosphere of overpressure, which would not make the tire flat. Have you tried filling it? If you do so with a compressor or at a gas station, you can check with a
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Jun 27, 2011 00:57
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Apologies in advance for the rant. So I bought a 1985 Interceptor 500 this spring, and I've been riding it since with a few problems here and there. Clutch was spongy, so I bled it and the brake lines while I was at it. Fuel valve was having issues so I replaced the petcock and some of the more ratty fuel lines. Battery was draining for no reason so I went through the electric lines, found a few frayed connections and spliced good lines in. The most recent problem started when I was on the highway. After riding for a half hour or so, I was cruising at steady speed when it started slowing down, so I pulled off and when I put it in neutral it stuttered and died. That night it started a couple times but always died soon after. I'm almost certain it's a carb issue: it doesn't start half the time, with or without choke, and when it does it will idle for a couple minutes, then gradually lose RPMs until it dies, at which point it wont start again. At this point I'm thinking of selling it as a parts bike because the prospect of pulling a notoriously difficult carb system out, cleaning 4 carbs that probably haven't been touched in 25 years, and then installing them again into a bike that so far has been nothing but problems sounds like a Sisyphean task. My question is, has anyone dealt with something like this before? Is it a quick fix that I can't think of, or is it futile to keep fixing this thing? And regarding selling it, does anyone in the Chicago area have an SV they're trying to get rid of or should I start hitting up dealers and craigslist?
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Jun 27, 2011 01:06
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bidikyoopi, if you leave it for a long time, does it start easily again? Does it run fine once started? Sounds like another case of the mysterious blocked tank vent. Let it run until it happens, then once it is stopped, open the tank cap. If it makes a big PSSST sound the problem is found. You'll need to set it on "prime" to fill the carbs up, should start easily. As gas is consumed, air has to replace it. It probably comes in through a tube somewhere on the underside of the tank. Once the slightest vacuum forms in the tank, gas no longer flows into the carbs.
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Jun 27, 2011 01:15
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Ola posted:You do not need a motorcycle specific gauge. Some fillers might be hard to get in place and give poor reading, but the hissing sound of leaking air should be enough warning in that case. 13 psi is still almost an atmosphere of overpressure, which would not make the tire flat. Have you tried filling it? If you do so with a compressor or at a gas station, you can check with a I'll take it by a gas station tomorrow and see if I get different readings when I try to fill it up. I should say that the reading is only with the front tire. It "seals" off so I don't hear any air escaping. On the rear, no matter how I try holding it/configuring the gauge, air is leaking out.
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Jun 27, 2011 01:20
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I'll check tonight but I doubt it would be that easy. When it does start, it's only after 4-5 failed cranks. I thought it was a blocked fuel line again since one of the few times it started it was when the petcock was set to "reserve" but since then it has started (more frequently failed to start) when the petcock was on, off, and reserve. But I'll give the fuel filler lid thing a shot when I get home. Edit: took off the cap, didn't hear a whoosh, but the bike started slightly better. Still died after a couple mins even on the choke. My guess is that tank vacuum played a part but wasn't the main issue. Marvin K. Mooney fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Jun 27, 2011 |
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Jun 27, 2011 01:23
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