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Had a few things done to it. Had the rear tire replaced with another M3 about 100 miles ago, and shortly after that realized the front was also almost gone, so I ordered a new front through bikebandit. Yesterday a pair of replacement bars showed up, so I went to mount them only to find that they wouldn't clear the protrusions on the tops of the older model forks. That was annoying, but I'm just gonna keep them around for the street tracker project. I checked the valves after that, and although they're all in spec, they're getting pretty loose, so I'll probably redo the looser ones when I get a chance.
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Jul 31, 2011 08:18
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the walkin dude posted:I hope that ECU's plug and play? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLfXXRfRIzY This video helped me a bunch. So much easier for me to see things visually than just reading a guide.
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Jul 31, 2011 17:51
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Slim Pickens posted:keep them around for the street tracker project. What project is this? 
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Jul 31, 2011 18:27
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Picked up a 1975 TS400. It was probably a bad idea, as this thing needs a ton of work, but the lack of parts made me decide to turn it into a street tracker. I'll probably start a build thread once I get things going.
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Jul 31, 2011 18:45
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I replaced the air filter on the R6 today. I had to drill out the rivets in the air filter cage. I tried to re-rivet it, but my rivet gun sucks. Eh, the holes are filled by my rivets but they aren't holding the lower cage together. The R6 forums state that the air box holds it together anyway. (I guess the 99 worked that way.) Looks solid in there to me. Oh well, now I can spend my days worrying about this. 
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Jul 31, 2011 22:56
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Not actually today, but I now have photographic evidence. I had to remove my cylinder to get a piece of broken exhaust bolt out of it. Thankfully, all I had to do was use needle nose pliers on the other side and turn it. Also I had to order some properly-sized O-rings for the HermaphroBike's slow jet before it would run properly again. Now it's all back together with its new custom sprocket. 
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Jul 31, 2011 22:57
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the walkin dude posted:I just got a CBR1000RR R/R and a wiring kit from D'Ecosse of SVRider. Gotta pick up a soldering gun and learn how to solder before I replace the R/R in my 2000 sv. I didn't have a clue what I was doing when I put a FH008 R/R from a CBR on my '01, and everything turned out just fine. On a difficulty scale of 1-10 soldering a new R/R into an SV is somewhere around a 2. Just don't eat the solder or use so much that you clog the connectors.
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Aug 1, 2011 01:15
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Mounted the Beowulf oil cooler cover that I got a couple of days ago: No more worrying about a stray stone punching a hole in the cooler, killing the engine and soaking my rear wheel in hot oil.
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Aug 1, 2011 22:46
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KozmoNaut posted:No more worrying about a stray stone punching a hole in the cooler, killing the engine and soaking my rear wheel in hot oil. Hey man you don't need to hide it behind all those claims of utility: you just want CHROME CHROME and more CHROOOME It's cool bro, I like chrome on everything too.
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Aug 2, 2011 08:15
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Schlieren posted:Hey man you don't need to hide it behind all those claims of utility: you just want CHROME CHROME and more CHROOOME It's stainless steel  Unfortunately, Beowulf only makes the aluminum version for the Bandit 1200 
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Aug 2, 2011 08:37
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Welp, it's time to do or die: I really did pull the engine from the Goldwing this time. Once I figured out that the driveshaft has a circlip and wasn't just stuck it went pretty smooth. Glad I didn't break anything there. Of course I did this with my wife an 2 year old daughter out of town; it will probably take months to hit the next milestone on this project, whatever it ends up being. At minimum an engine flush and a new clutch. At most- the junkyard; there were scary colored metal bits (bearing shavings, probably) in the oil when I drained it forever ago.
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Aug 2, 2011 08:44
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KozmoNaut posted:Mounted the Beowulf oil cooler cover that I got a couple of days ago: Jebus look how clean those headers are. Makes me want to get mine ceramic coated.
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Aug 2, 2011 13:54
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I finally got around to installing the resistors on my Dynacoils on my 77 Honda CB750K. Apparently they Dynacoils are 3 Ohms which over time may melt the wiring and/or contacts in the kill switch. Hondaman sells a nice resistor setup to alleviate this problem. Unfortunately, I didn't realize that I would have to cut up the bracket he supplies to fit my bike. Nonetheless it went on really easy and the bike is running great! I even had it up to 95 MPH on the highway on the way to work this morning! Well.. 95 on the speedometer. It was prolly like 78 MPH or something. 
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Aug 2, 2011 13:59
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Crayvex posted:I finally got around to installing the resistors on my Dynacoils on my 77 Honda CB750K. Apparently they Dynacoils are 3 Ohms which over time may melt the wiring and/or contacts in the kill switch. Hondaman sells a nice resistor setup to alleviate this problem. Unfortunately, I didn't realize that I would have to cut up the bracket he supplies to fit my bike. Nonetheless it went on really easy and the bike is running great! Looks awesome! I hope those work out nicely for you. And no... that speedo should be pretty dead-on (minus the bouncing needle). Unless the cops radar was also 25mph off when I got tagged.
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Aug 2, 2011 15:09
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Looks awesome! I hope those work out nicely for you. The coils and new plug wires made a huge difference. It's running so much more smoothly now. I guess now I should start looking at fixing up the cosmetics of the bike.
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Aug 2, 2011 15:22
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Crayvex posted:The coils and new plug wires made a huge difference. It's running so much more smoothly now. I guess now I should start looking at fixing up the cosmetics of the bike. gently caress that. ride it till it rots then replace it with something custom  what cosmetics do you need? I've got a lot of parts that I'm probably not going to wind up using. My better half just informed me that this time next year she wants to be moved to Georgia. I don't think they make trucks big enough to carry all my bike stuff.
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Aug 2, 2011 19:36
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kylej posted:Jebus look how clean those headers are. Makes me want to get mine ceramic coated. They're actually filthy, but my cellphone camera obscures it. They've got blotches of tar and various other bits of unremovable poo poo on them
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Aug 2, 2011 22:58
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KozmoNaut posted:They're actually filthy, but my cellphone camera obscures it. They've got blotches of tar and various other bits of unremovable poo poo on them Yeah mine are pretty horrendous. Cross threaded a bolt today while being stupid. Have to replace a clutch release assembly and the bolt and nuts. $70 down the drain gently caress me.
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Aug 3, 2011 01:54
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Changed brake pads, finished just before it got dark. Tomorrow I test 'em out
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Aug 3, 2011 05:29
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kylej posted:Yeah mine are pretty horrendous. Can't re-thread or helicoil?
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Aug 3, 2011 10:12
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ReelBigLizard posted:Can't re-thread or helicoil? Probably too small/thin/awkwardly positioned to time-sert or helicoil. I've been in that position with small fiddly poo poo inside my transmission or primary.
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Aug 3, 2011 10:23
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Redid the chain tension last night. Bought some new nuts, washers, and lockwashers ($.77 total) so they're not different sizes and stripped. Somehow, the PO managed to put a 1/2" drive nut on the adjusting bolt for the jam nut. I think that's a 5/16" bolt size, but no wonder my 12mm didn't fit, the 13mm was sloppy, and it was a bitch to adjust. Also, the axle is now at the far, far end of adjustment for chain tension, and the chain is still on the loose side. Time to hawk the parts sites for a new chain. I have the confidence that I can do a closed chain replacement in about 45 minutes, being that I took the wheel off, took the chain tension adjusting bolts out, put the wheel back on and torqued it, went to Home Depot, bought parts, wheel off(again), and put everything back together (with torques) in 45 minutes.
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Aug 3, 2011 10:27
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Contact Speed Addict Cycles and mention Conan recommended you. He can hook you up on a deal for RK chains, they're not listed on the site but he does have them for cheap. What year bike and sprocket setup do you have right now?
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Aug 3, 2011 14:46
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Somehow, the PO managed to put a 1/2" drive nut on the adjusting bolt for the jam nut. I think that's a 5/16" bolt size, but no wonder my 12mm didn't fit, the 13mm was sloppy, and it was a bitch to adjust. the po of my buddy's XS650 managed to strip and destroy every loving thread on that bike except the spark plug threads. IT'S A loving METRIC BIKE YOU rear end in a top hat! ^^actually I'm not even sure if that was the problem in many cases, it looks like he just used the wrong thread pitch on a lot of poo poo.
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Aug 3, 2011 15:13
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So the P.O. definitely used gobs of threadlock to attach the pointy decorative bar ends to my Ninja. I tried a rubber strap wrench, vice grips, a heat gun, and now I'm gonna go ahead and drill the fuckers through and toss bolts in there and try again with channel locks. Got a Battlax BT016 rear tire in the mail today, gonna replace the bald and squared-off BT014 in the back and hopefully that cleans up some of the twitchiness in corners. Has the market died down for SV650s? Or is that just the economy making GBS threads itself even more? Thankfully, a good friend of mine wants to grab my bike from me, only later in October when he starts at Intel.
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Aug 3, 2011 17:22
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Ripped out the carbs on the old GSX. Again. This time to check the o-rings under the intake boots for leaks. The o-rings look a bit flatted out but the seal seemed perfectly ok. One of the intake boots had a big tear in it though. So far I have not found any online seller that have fitting boots for sale. It seems like scrapyards or glue is my last hope. On the positive side I've gotten carb removal down to a 15-minute job 
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Aug 3, 2011 17:37
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makka-setan posted:Ripped out the carbs on the old GSX. Again. This time to check the o-rings under the intake boots for leaks. The o-rings look a bit flatted out but the seal seemed perfectly ok. One of the intake boots had a big tear in it though. So far I have not found any online seller that have fitting boots for sale. It seems like scrapyards or glue is my last hope. If the o-rings seems flattened by just visually inspecting them, replacement is required. Scrapyard boots is a bad solution. They'll likely be just as brittle as yours. If your boots are so hard to find and discontinued, I'd use the best of your old ones as the base for a die and mold my own. It's surprisingly easy. I've done that for an old Alfa Romeo GTV I had, and the result was pretty good. I think Polytek http://www.polytek.com/cart/index.php and a few more would be able to advise you, and while you're at it, why don't you just order a few lbs of what they advise and make a fuckton of those boots for ebaying - the solution to your problem might turn to profit.
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Aug 3, 2011 18:54
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the walkin dude posted:So the P.O. definitely used gobs of threadlock to attach the pointy decorative bar ends to my Ninja. I tried a rubber strap wrench, vice grips, a heat gun, and now I'm gonna go ahead and drill the fuckers through and toss bolts in there and try again with channel locks. I think it depends where you are, a buddy of mine sold his '08 SV650S with 5k miles for $4300 about a month ago in New Mexico and it was on Craigslist for less than a week but a guy on SVRider has been trying to sell his which is nearly identical for $4k in Colorado for a couple months. I bought my '08 SVS for $4k locally and felt like I got a good deal.
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Aug 3, 2011 21:19
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Thanks, I will definitely replace the o-rings. Some pages suggests that I should be careful which type of rubber O-rings to use, would these be fine? Casting my own intake boots seems really interesting, but I think I'll try to seal the one I've got if I can't find a proper replacement. The rubber isn't really brittle, it's still pretty soft and there are no cracks except the tear. And that probably came from me being an idiot last time I removed and reinstalled the carbs.
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Aug 3, 2011 21:33
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makka-setan posted:Casting my own intake boots seems really interesting, but I think I'll try to seal the one I've got if I can't find a proper replacement. In that case you'll need some polyeurethane adhesive sealant. Loctite, 3M and Sika all makes products that'll repair your tear. Regarding the O-rings, I wouldn't advise you to buy anything from ebay you "think might fit". Even though it's "just rubber" the tolerances are pretty narrow, especially if they're closing a surface you'll want to open at least once every year. I'm pretty sure you can get original spares here without being totally raped. Penguin of Agony fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Aug 3, 2011 |
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Aug 3, 2011 22:55
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Z3n posted:Contact Speed Addict Cycles and mention Conan recommended you. He can hook you up on a deal for RK chains, they're not listed on the site but he does have them for cheap. What year bike and sprocket setup do you have right now? '02 Bandit 1200S, 15/45, 110-link chain. Going out to double-check all those measurements now, as my replacement ($40, thank you gear thread) bags just showed up.
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Aug 3, 2011 22:56
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:'02 Bandit 1200S, 15/45, 110-link chain. Going out to double-check all those measurements now, as my replacement ($40, thank you gear thread) bags just showed up. Check the chain width too...520, 525, or 530. If it's stock, it's probably a 530. My favorite site to double check chain and sprocket sizes is Vortex racing: https://www.vortexracing.com/ Just enter your model year information and it'll spit out the chain pitch, the number of links, and the stock sprocket sizes. Super handy. Z3n fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Aug 3, 2011 |
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Aug 3, 2011 23:05
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Z3n posted:Contact Speed Addict Cycles and mention Conan recommended you. He can hook you up on a deal for RK chains, they're not listed on the site but he does have them for cheap. What year bike and sprocket setup do you have right now? Why would you recommend an RK chain over a DID X-ring for a Bandit 1200?
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Aug 3, 2011 23:16
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Penguin of Agony posted:Why would you recommend an RK chain over a DID X-ring for a Bandit 1200? RK makes an XSO-Ring chain that's basically the same thing as the DID X-Ring and is around ~50% of the price. Lasts the same, as far as I've been able to see. I've used most of the chain brands out there, and as long as you're running an X ring chain, I haven't been able to produce any significant differences in running life with proper care.
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Aug 3, 2011 23:24
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Geirskogul posted:Probably too small/thin/awkwardly positioned to time-sert or helicoil. I've been in that position with small fiddly poo poo inside my transmission or primary. Pretty much. Cross threaded the nut, and instead of being an intelligent person and removing the screw before trying to pry the nut off I just hacked away with the thing still inside the clutch assembly. Bent the screw while prying the nut off, which tore up the internal threads when I then tried to adjust the screw. A cavalcade of stupidity. Half the problem stems from trying to bullshit the job with the wrong tools. I cannot wait until I have a garage.
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Aug 3, 2011 23:45
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Half of my bike issues would be resolved if I had a garage. A warm, comfortable place to work in with easy access to everything instead of a oil-stained, small and dim carport or environmentally busy and time-limited street.
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Aug 4, 2011 00:08
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The best thing about a garage: Some part is frustrating you? gently caress it, let it sit and think about what it's done. No one's gonna touch it, and you can come back tomorrow, or next week, or next month, and it'll still be exactly as you left it. I refuse to live in a place without a garage.
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Aug 4, 2011 00:23
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Unfortunately, it's not much of an option for us city-dwellers. Well, okay, it is, but getting a place with a garage is difficult, at best, and would cost as much as a second bedroom, which I can't afford on my own, anyway. (Although if I get the raise I'm hoping for, this might be different next year.)
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Aug 4, 2011 00:31
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Z3n posted:RK makes an XSO-Ring chain that's basically the same thing as the DID X-Ring and is around ~50% of the price. Lasts the same, as far as I've been able to see. I've used most of the chain brands out there, and as long as you're running an X ring chain, I haven't been able to produce any significant differences in running life with proper care. Looks 530 pitch to me. As far as "proper care," I'm all set to go 100% chainsaw bar oil for the life of this chain. Also, an RK chain and sprocket kit is $218, but buying sprockets and a DID chain separately is $238. Is the DID worth $20, or am I getting ripped off on the kit? I can't find an RK chain cheaper alone. The rest of this post is getting way, way too long. I'm taking it over to the questions thread.
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Aug 4, 2011 01:08
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Today I threw my new (used) and not-bent forks on the bike, put it together and gave her a ride. It's amazing the difference. I guess it shouldn't be amazing, because riding a bike with bent forks sucks. After a quick run around the block I threw it back up on the stands, took the front and rear wheel off, and tomorrow I'm getting the tires changed and putting on the new chain. And then it's time to put some miles on.
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Aug 4, 2011 01:13
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