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KozmoNaut posted:I've got ~1500km on mine now. They lose a little bit of that initial "whoa Nelly" bite and become a bit more progressive when they're broken in, stopping power is good and strong. Good to know - I was kinda thinking they may stay this way which would make riding a little more interesting to say the least. Next up (when I have some more money to throw into the industrial sized shredder which is motorcycling) is stainless steel braided lines!
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Aug 24, 2011 20:00
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I was told you have to watch out with the EBC HH pads in the rain. Apparently they slip on the water until you apply enough pressure and then they bite all at once, not so good. Can't say they've done that to me, though. Of course they don't bite as well on wet cooled-off discs but they still felt pretty progressive to me.
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Aug 24, 2011 22:06
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I'm going to convert it to a race bike since I already have track plastics. My street parts are with a fair amount of money so I'll sell those off so I can buy racing rear sets and a few other bits.
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Aug 25, 2011 21:56
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KozmoNaut posted:I was told you have to watch out with the EBC HH pads in the rain. Apparently they slip on the water until you apply enough pressure and then they bite all at once, not so good. Good to know. Bedding the pads in was fun. Went to an empty car park and inadvertently practiced endos for a while.. Unfortunately I found that my bleeder valves are weeping a little from the threads. I was pretty careful not to over torque them so I really hope I didn't damage them or especially the calipers, but the fact that they're both weeping isn't making me hopeful. Originally I thought it may have just been fluid which got into the threads as I was bleeding, so I wiped it off before riding. Unfortunately when I stopped after breaking in the pads they had weeped some more. Nothing major, though I think the brake lever is a little softer (may be in my mind). I read on the internet that taking them out and checking the surfaces in the caliper/the tapered end of the bleeder bolt for dirt and cleaning it up may help.. Though If I did mess them up and galled the surfaces I'll be pretty pissed. Ordered some speedbleeders the other day which have thread sealant on them which I hope will serve to stop the leak enough for track day this weekend.
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Aug 25, 2011 22:07
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KozmoNaut posted:I was told you have to watch out with the EBC HH pads in the rain. Apparently they slip on the water until you apply enough pressure and then they bite all at once, not so good. I have these pads on the 636 and ride though rain all the time and they have seemed fine to me too. Slow early braking works perfect and I've been though a few real killer storms lately.
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Aug 25, 2011 22:24
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GanjamonII posted:Good to know. Sometimes you'll get a little fluid in the tubes of the bleeders that will weep out after you ride it again. Wipe everything up, go for another ride, and see if it still leaks.
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Aug 25, 2011 23:48
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Z3n posted:Sometimes you'll get a little fluid in the tubes of the bleeders that will weep out after you ride it again. Wipe everything up, go for another ride, and see if it still leaks. I went and got some brake cleaner today and cleaned the poo poo out of everything really well - I took the bleeder bolts out and inspected the ends and couldn't see any damage. In both holes I found some dirt when I cleaned it out with a qtip. In one in particular there was a definite chunk of black stuff that came out. On one I saw a small shaving of metal on one of the threads. it was nearly at the top of the thread not near the bottom. The tip of that bleeder looked ok and the thread looked fine too, and when I looked inside both holes as well as I could there was no obvious damage to the 'seat' that I could see. Sprayed everything with brake cleaner and wiped it off then reassembled and bled the brakes again. I torqued everything down to about 7.5 ftlbs, though my torque wrench is a cheap beam type and that was right at the bottom of the scale so don't know how accurate it was. Cleaned with brake cleaner again. When I put the rubber caps back on I pumped both until fluid stopped coming out of the threads, cleaned it off again with brake cleaner and went for a short 2 minute ride where I did maybe a half dozen moderate stops from about 30mph. Came home and one bleeder is dry, the other one has a SLIGHT wetness around the thread, but its better than before. Im going to take it out for a longer ride tonight and see what comes of it. I also think I need to put brand new fluid in the system cause the lever isn't as firm as I'd like. I used RBF600 that I've had sitting around (tightly sealed but still) for about 4-5 months, so when the speed bleeders come in I'll buy a new bottle of fluid and flush the whole system. If you noticed that I mentioned brake cleaner a lot, its because I'm feeling light headed from using so much of it. Im slightly OCD when it comes to this type of stuff. Especially the brakes. edit - they both have a small amount of wetness around the threads. GanjamonII fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Aug 26, 2011 |
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Aug 26, 2011 00:38
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Changed tyres :-) Old/new:  Could have replaced exactly like for like for £75, but I went for the slightly better matched set of "Sava" brand for £85. Quite a noticable difference with the new tyres. I'm feeling much more secure in the bends with these. Old rear (in the picture) I guess was kind of square. And 5 years old. A little bit of a "new bike" feeling today... 'Course, I'll probably sell the bike next spring/summer, but it's coming to the rainy season. If only I had gotten new tyres before (or instead of?) crashing...
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Aug 26, 2011 00:43
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GanjamonII posted:I went and got some brake cleaner today and cleaned the poo poo out of everything really well - I took the bleeder bolts out and inspected the ends and couldn't see any damage. In both holes I found some dirt when I cleaned it out with a qtip. In one in particular there was a definite chunk of black stuff that came out. Hand tighten them a bit more with a small wrench. I wouldn't trust a beam style torque wrench at 7.5 pounds. They should be comfortably snug.
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Aug 26, 2011 01:38
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Dropped it in a parking lot. I parked in a low spot, and some flash rains put some sand down. I didn't notice (it being 0100 when I get to the bike), and let the clutch out and was sitting on the ground. Broke the knob off the shifter lever, and when I pulled the clutch in to start, that lever came off, too. Bypassed the clutch switch, started in first, and made it home without hitting any red lights. Damage: shifter knob (I can still shift with the bit of lever that's left) and the clutch lever, which is 100% inop. It fell and pivoted in the sand on the clutch cover, right where the PO dropped it, so nothing obvious there.
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Aug 26, 2011 08:47
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Okay, I know that sport bike looks are "ruined" by crash bars, but I'm thankful every time I've dropped my bike because of those damned butterfly bars and the rear pannier bars. Instead of "shift lever" this and "brake pedal" that, it's "welp, time to hit up Home Depot and buy a $4 can of spray paint again" for my frame guards.
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Aug 26, 2011 |
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Aug 26, 2011 09:21
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Geirskogul posted:Okay, I now that sport bike looks are "ruined" by crash bars, but I'm thankful every time I've dropped my bike because of those damned butterfly bars and the rear pannier bars. Instead of "shift lever" this and "brake pedal" that, it's "welp, time to hit up Home Depot and buy a $4 can of spray paint again" for my frame guards. I say gently caress the spraypaint, chicks dig scars.
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Aug 26, 2011 14:03
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I say gently caress the spraypaint, chicks dig scars. In that case, I'm not buying a new shifter. I've got a toggle bolt in there now, and I can shift just fine. When I put it down again, I'll just put another toggle bolt in it.
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Aug 26, 2011 20:58
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Found an awesome new route to work this morning. I had taken part of the home route last Friday when I was coming from a different office, so today decided to try it both ways. Got there in just under 30 minutes, when my usual route is about 45: barely any traffic heading north in the morning, and I was quite amazed considering I left much later than I usually try to. Time isn't so much a thing with me as much as lovely traffic, and although there's a big pinch point on the way home, it beats the hell out of the crap I usually face on the other route. I'm sure that'll all change in September when school opens, but I can enjoy it while I can!  Also, stopped at a light, I saw some cool dude on some funky custom trike (most likely a Campagna T-Rex) turn left onto my street, going past me. I gave him the thumbs up, and he responded in kind. Chris Knight fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Aug 26, 2011 |
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Aug 26, 2011 23:09
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Z3n posted:Hand tighten them a bit more with a small wrench. I wouldn't trust a beam style torque wrench at 7.5 pounds. They should be comfortably snug. Put some speedbleeders on today.. I'm seriously impressed with these things. Super easy to install and the bleeding is super fast. Also flushed with new(er) DOT 4 fluid and the brakes feel really good. And the leaks are gone now too - I compared the tips of the speedbleeders to the old ones and the old ones do have some very slight scoring which I didn't really notice before but I'm not sure if that was enough to leak. Even if the thread sealant is sealing the system now its better than before. I'll take it for a longer shakedown cruise tomorrow and see how it goes but I feel good about going to the track with them now.
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Aug 26, 2011 23:55
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Put the 636 up on stands against the wall in the shed to prepare for Hurricane Irene. I also brought the Husky in the safety of the house again since I have to race-prep/throw parts at it anyway. Those are the only two things I've really done to prepare. 
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Aug 27, 2011 13:55
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Deleted the rear fairing from my Bandit. Moved the computer and its harness, and the lighting/fuse harness. Deleted the PAIR can and its hoses. Rerouted the seat lock cable to under the seat. I used a couple of angle brackets (inside corner braces) to reattach the taillight; It looks pretty OK, and would look great if I could be arsed to put some black paint on it. I reinstalled the PAIR check valves directly under the carbs, but I'd like to get rid of all of that. What's the approved method to block vacuum hose from the carb? I was just going to put a screw with RTV in the hose. Also, the fuel tank vent hose now points at nothing somewhere under the battery box. Is that OK? Should I cap that as well, or is it important to have a tank vent? Edit: I have no idea what this stupid canister was. I don't see it in the service manual, and can't find it described online. It's not PAIR; that's a valve and some hoses leading to the cylinders. This was a California-model bike, but the California hose routing diagram has the hose that goes to the canister leading straight to the ground. I found it in a parts diagram as "canister" with some fuel and purge hoses and valves. I don't know, but it's not there anymore. babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Aug 27, 2011 |
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Aug 27, 2011 21:31
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Just treat the hoses going into it as drain/breather hoses. The canister just filters emissions from your gas tank and crank case AFAIK.
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Aug 28, 2011 00:36
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Deleted the rear fairing from my Bandit. Moved the computer and its harness, and the lighting/fuse harness. Deleted the PAIR can and its hoses. Rerouted the seat lock cable to under the seat. I used a couple of angle brackets (inside corner braces) to reattach the taillight; It looks pretty OK, and would look great if I could be arsed to put some black paint on it. There is an actual PAIR delete kit available from Holeshot. My first-gen doesnt have the PAIR system, so I'm not too familiar with it. I dont believe you can just pull everything out and expect it to run right though. The tank vent under the tank is actually an overflow drain. It needs to be open and working, because if the tank is overfilled, the gas will pool up in the area where the cap is and just sit forever.
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Aug 29, 2011 14:54
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Phat_Albert posted:There is an actual PAIR delete kit available from Holeshot. My first-gen doesnt have the PAIR system, so I'm not too familiar with it. I dont believe you can just pull everything out and expect it to run right though. Yeah, I'm looking at the service manual again. To delete PAIR, I'd need 4 plates to block off the holes in the cylinder heads. Another day, perhaps. Next up is modifying the carbs to get proper jetting for this altitude. That's a huge can of worms there.
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Aug 29, 2011 18:10
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Yeah, I'm looking at the service manual again. To delete PAIR, I'd need 4 plates to block off the holes in the cylinder heads. Another day, perhaps. Next up is modifying the carbs to get proper jetting for this altitude. That's a huge can of worms there. Usually you can just hammer the reed valves shut and then plug the hole in the top with anything handy.
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Aug 29, 2011 18:52
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Took 'er out for a ride down to one of the better liquor stores to get some funky beer, and found my new favourite corner in the city: Stay in right hand lane on Dupont, hard left onto Avenue Road's right lane, then quick right onto Macpherson then quite left onto Marlborough and hard right at the turn to keep on it. Then futzed about with my ColorTune plugs, just to see what it was all about. Kinda neat!
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Aug 30, 2011 02:55
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Chris Knight posted:Hold the phone! Mr. Greenjeans was brought back from the dead to run a chain of restaurants? 
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Aug 30, 2011 05:50
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I rolled 18,000 miles on my Gs650. And put 200 miles on it. And tried to die by merging on top of someone. .... I'm lucky to be alive.
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Aug 30, 2011 05:59
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Nerobro posted:And tried to die by merging on top of someone. .... I'm lucky to be alive. What. You tried to mount a pedestrian or something?
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Aug 30, 2011 06:23
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Marv Hushman posted:Hold the phone! Mr. Greenjeans was brought back from the dead to run a chain of restaurants? No, but if you nail that turn combo you'll be granted total Krishna Consciousness. Content: I installed a new shift lever grommet for the Seca. 
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Aug 30, 2011 08:34
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I just installed a YSS adjustable shock to replace the 10-year-old stock rear on the Vino. I'm hoping this will help keep my exhaust from scraping on the ground, but only time will tell. Also since it's nearing 100° in the daytime, it's nice to be able to work outside at night.
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Aug 31, 2011 07:28
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M4rg4r1ne posted:I just installed a YSS adjustable shock to replace the 10-year-old stock rear on the Vino. I'm hoping this will help keep my exhaust from scraping on the ground, but only time will tell. Also since it's nearing 100° in the daytime, it's nice to be able to work outside at night. I'm curious how their scooter shocks work. I almost bought a nice set for my CB750.
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Aug 31, 2011 14:57
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Marv Hushman posted:Hold the phone! Mr. Greenjeans was brought back from the dead to run a chain of restaurants? it was the Hare Krishnas in league with New Zealand expats.
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Sep 1, 2011 01:20
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I'm curious how their scooter shocks work. I almost bought a nice set for my CB750.
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Sep 1, 2011 08:47
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The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > Cycle Asylum > You were how redneck with your ride today? I don't own a spring compressor, either, but I've found a combination of zip ties, channel locks, and vice grips will get most springs compressed for me, if they're installed in the vehicle. I'll weigh down the motorcycle to compress the shock, zip-tie the springs together (in multiple places, obviously)), let the shock out again, and use vice grips or channel locks on the base as a kind of washer. Then I'll compress and zip-tie them again until they're compressed enough for whatever. On bigger vehicles, like cars, I've done the same thing, but either with those metal reusable zip-ties (which really aren't zip ties, more like locking chains), or a combination of various tools as the spring holders. I also tape up the pliers before use so they don't scratch new shocks, but if they're old lovely ones I don't give a crap. Now, I never said any of this was safe.
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Sep 1, 2011 10:12
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Geirskogul posted:The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > Cycle Asylum > You were how redneck with your ride today? OH MY gently caress!!! Is this you?!?! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeneZo0SByA TheAdventureProne
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Sep 1, 2011 15:01
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:OH MY gently caress!!! No, not me, and I've never seen that video before. But if I had, I would have just posted a link to it, with maybe a "use like 3 times as many zip ties as that guy did," because I have SOME semblance of safety. Some. EDIT: though now that I've finished the video, there are many things I WOULD NOT have done, like grab the spring directly with vice grips. Bad people, bad!
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Sep 1, 2011 19:49
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Installed Vortex bar end sliders on the Ninja. Also did the zip tie mod; super-glued zip tie to the throttle cable portion of the throttle tube. Saved myself some dollars in not buying a R6 throttle tube. Shorter throttle throw. Now I zoom more furiously past 7k into the stratosphere and without re-positioning my fist. Then tossed on my Throttle Boss, which had been laying around unused since I crashed its main attachment, the K3 SV650. Whoa nelly. More fun in traffic
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Sep 1, 2011 22:00
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Tried to renew the fork oil and fork seals. loving poo poo bitch gay rear end rusted out no recesses for a screwdriver piece of crap retainer clip btich i will wd40 your loving rear end up And in other news, there's a good chance I will gently caress up the teflon coating on the bushings if I use the inner stanchion(?) to sledgehammer the poo poo out of the old seal. Ugh, why does this bike hate me so much? 
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Sep 2, 2011 20:48
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Stuck a Yuasa YTX14-BS on my Tuono in place of the stock YTX12, for a lot of extra CCA and a couple more amp-hours. For the benefit of the two (?) Falco owners we have, assuming they have a similar subframe, the -14 actually fits fine - despite being ~30mm taller. You need a longer bolt for the battery clamp and a spacer - I used a cheap ballpoint pen. Seat on the Tuono goes back on normally. Have a nice clear double-bubble I'm going to put on tomorrow, and I'll be having a peer into the airbox for the first time to see what condition the PO left the filter in.
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Sep 3, 2011 00:34
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I figured out my tail light issues were caused by the socket popping out of the housing, thus losing contact with the ground wire every time I hit a bump. Guess I'll just jam the ground into the socket itself tomorrow. Also I lost a screw. Dammit!
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Sep 3, 2011 05:45
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Ran the CRF-tard out of gas today. Really lucked out and was able to roll all but 1/2 block to a gas station. If I would have made it another 150ft or so I would have had to push up-hill. Worst part is I messed with the electronics since the last time I filled it so I have no idea what the range is. Also discovered I don't have a reserve. Also gently caress you to the bitch honking her horn because she had to wait 10 seconds to turn while I pushed my bike across the road in a full suit at ~90 degrees.
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Sep 3, 2011 19:01
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Today, I figured out that the oil leak on my new-to-me Bandit 600 was because the threads in the oil drain plug are knackered. So much for a nice long weekend of riding.
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Sep 3, 2011 19:05
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Ziploc posted:Today, I figured out that the oil leak on my new-to-me Bandit 600 was because the threads in the oil drain plug are knackered. Wrap it in rubber tape and keep a liter on you. Go riding. Fix it on Monday (or Tuesday, if you're in the US).
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Sep 3, 2011 20:22
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