|
That Infinity package is really nice for $400. Dude is out in Welland near me and that's damned tempting.
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2011 04:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 29, 2024 18:46 |
|
|
evil_bunnY posted:Any recommendation for speakers that look good but don't sound like the average "design" speakers. http://www.horns.pl/mummy.html  You still have to buy a compression driver, minidsp, amps, and woofer... but theyre fuckin cool
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2011 04:14
|
|
|
Hob_Gadling posted:Went browsing Canuck Audio Mart for the heck of it.  The stuff that I really want to buy half price are either always sold out or never appear used, like:Philharmonic 2 Ribbon Tweeter included speakers. Paradigm Signature S2 v3 Salk SongTowers with the Ribbon Tweeter Rythmik F15 Subwoofer (a second one, I already have one)
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2011 07:32
|
|
|
Hob_Gadling posted:Went browsing Canuck Audio Mart for the heck of it.  Some of the stuff people buy is just absolutely hosed, but this might not be a bad place to start. Thanks for the link, I didn't even know this place exists.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2011 15:36
|
|
|
I'm in the market for a wireless surround sound system (willing to spend up to $500). I'll be using it for movie-viewing and PS3/Wii gaming. Any recommendations?
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2011 00:01
|
|
|
melon cat posted:I'm in the market for a wireless surround sound system (willing to spend up to $500). I'll be using it for movie-viewing and PS3/Wii gaming. Any recommendations? Yes. Don't get wireless. You need to power the speakers somehow in any case, which means a power cord or batteries. Unless you really are willing to put up with connectivity issues, reloading/changing batteries and generally crappy bang for buck your money is better spent by getting a normal 3.1 and _maybe_ wireless rear speakers.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2011 00:22
|
|
|
So I'm hoping you guys may be able to help me out here. I know some pretty basic stuff about home theatre equipment but just enough to setup and do some basic configuring myself. That being said I'm looking to turn my second bedroom into a theatre with an Optoma projector and a good sound system. So I've been told that Paradigm are great but since I've just started searching I haven't gone down to the store to hear them yet. I don't mind buying low or even kind of crappy speaker right now to save cash but I think I need to get a good receiver that will last me a long time so I can gradually buy better speakers over time without worrying about buying a new receiver. What I'm hoping to get from you guys is any suggestions and any warnings on what to avoid doing/buying in a smaller room like this! Here's what I want to do: -Setup a projector on my wall shelf to project onto a matte white "screen" I'll paint on the opposite wall. -Wire up a 5.1 system throughout the room. -Install a receiver beside the projector. -Play Inception on blu-ray so loud that I poo poo myself from the bass. Dimensions of said room: -2.29 meters wide -4.52 meters long -2.47 meters high
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2011 02:41
|
|
|
Grey Fox V2 posted:So I'm hoping you guys may be able to help me out here. What's your price range? In particular with regards to your room, your room is extremely small and will suffer from sound quality issues. I'm not sure about whether or not you care about clear bass. What you need to do is you need to go into a decent store that sells relatively good audio equipment and ask them to use a good subwoofer compared to a bad one. For example, I personally cannot stand muddy bass no matter at what volume, so this pretty much rules out most low-end subwoofers for me. In a small room, you will suffer from echo issues at most frequencies and muddy bass naturally at low frequencies. Usually, when dealing with a small room, in order to achieve decent quality sound, you will need acoustic fixes. To decrease the amount of echo at higher frequencies, you need absorption/acoustic panels. To make the bass/subwoofer more clear, you will need bass traps. ntan1 fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Dec 27, 2011 |
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2011 03:25
|
|
|
Hob_Gadling posted:Yes. Don't get wireless. You need to power the speakers somehow in any case, which means a power cord or batteries. Unless you really are willing to put up with connectivity issues, reloading/changing batteries and generally crappy bang for buck your money is better spent by getting a normal 3.1 and _maybe_ wireless rear speakers. \/Thanks very much for the heads up! 
melon cat fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Dec 27, 2011 |
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2011 07:41
|
|
|
melon cat posted:We were looking at the Panasonic 1000-Watt 5.1 Channel Blu-ray Home Theatre System. Hopefully this set up doesn't suck. Would you like more bad news? It does. There's proprietary connectors to speakers which make a simple task like extending the speaker wire a bitch. If the Blu-Ray breaks down you get to toss the whole system. There's no room correction. You have to run every HDMI wire into TV and hope the audio comes back correctly via HDMI ARC (which it probably won't, if there's ever been a source of grief this is it). For roughly similar price you can get a setup that comes with a real receiver. This allows you to simply hook everything up into the receiver which can be set a little off to the side, and hook receiver to your TV with one HDMI wire. Then you run a room correction and have nice audio for your particular space. If you later feel like you want better speakers for music, upgrading is simple. Here's a couple examples: Denon DHT-591 /w Boston Acoustic speakers. Get this, some speaker wire and a separate Blu-Ray player, and you are still well within budget. Onkyo HT-S7400 is network-capable feature-laden receiver like Onkyo receivers in general are. It's also a nice set if you have several (non-HDMI) legacy devices. You can also pick speakers and receiver separately. Martin Logan 5.1 speakers and Pioneer VSX-821-K receiver come together at $429 if you use both promo codes. You can get a Denon or Onkyo receiver if you prefer those and end up with a similar price. VSX-921-K is within your budget if you want DLNA capability. Hob_Gadling fucked around with this message at 09:49 on Dec 27, 2011 |
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2011 09:45
|
|
|
I'm thinking about getting one of these: Yamaha YAS-101 Sound Bar as a replacement for my TV's speakers. My living room isn't very big and I don't want cables trailing everywhere, hence why I'm looking at sound bars and £200 is also about as much as I'd like to spend. Currently I have a 42" Plasma, a HTPC through which nearly everything is played from and a PS3. It's used mainly for TV/Movies, occasionally gaming and virtually never for music. The plan would be to connect the HTPC/PS3 to the TV with HDMI and run the audio through the bar with optical and I'm aware this would mean that audio from BD would not be HD, but would that actually be noticeable with this setup? I know there are other disadvantages to using optical (namely losing ARC/CEC control) but I'm not 100% sure my TV actually supports ARC (Here it is) and I have loose plans in the future to use a HDMI-CEC adapter on my HTPC so I can use my main TV remote within XBMC and I'm worried it might not play ball if run through another device. Thoughts?
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2011 18:38
|
|
|
Grey Fox V2 posted:but I think I need to get a good receiver that will last me a long time so I can gradually buy better speakers over time without worrying about buying a new receiver. Speakers have been more or less the same since the 50's. There has not been a big jump in speaker technology or design since that era. There are speakers from then that could be placed on a modern home theatre and sound every bit as good as anything on the high-end market today. My point is that speakers don't get outdated. A quality set of speakers can last you a lifetime if you care for them, and can be repaired for a lifetime as well. Receivers go out of date all the time. Companies are constantly trying to add new features to make the old ones seem outdated.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2011 02:07
|
|
|
man thats gross posted:
I have had very good success with Canuck audio mart over the last 5 years. I've bought an NAD integrated, DEQ2496, Heresy II, Vuum Tube Amp; all were local transactions CAM sourced and were flawless. Both CAM and Audiogon are worthwhile stops for used gear shopping.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2011 03:06
|
|
|
If I wanted to spend approx $500 on speakers, would going Polk be the right road to go down? Using newegg I can get: 2x Monitor60c 1x CS2 Center 1x Monitor40 (Pair) 1x PSW10 With $150 in discounts for $550 total. Is that a good buy or should I wait, no rush as I won't be able to use the speakers for a few weeks but I'm curious if should just pull the trigger.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2011 03:13
|
|
|
I'm enjoying my Monitor60c's in a 2.1 setup currently. Just be warned that the highs on Polk speakers are probably higher than most other brands but I don't mind it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2011 05:31
|
|
|
Im looking for a budget active sub to go with my Onkyo 309. Im really not that fussed about sound quality with a sub, if its half decent its good enough. Im also tempted to buy a full 5.1 set of speakers if I can find any for a reasonable price. I cant seem to find much available on UK sites though. any suggestions? I only really need the surround for games and movies, I have a nice pair of speakers for music already.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2011 13:30
|
|
|
Just a heads up, those Monitor30's are $40 off with a coupon code ($79.99 a pair) and I just picked up 2 sets. The center channel I was going to get is now deactivated though, and I'm not sure what to get now.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2011 15:27
|
|
|
Solly posted:Im looking for a budget active sub to go with my Onkyo 309. Im really not that fussed about sound quality with a sub, if its half decent its good enough. Just in case you change your mind but still want a budget solution: http://www.bkelec.com/hifi/Sub_Woofers/XLS200-DF.htm Wharfedale Diamond SW 150 is another solid choice. You could also try to hunt something from Velodyne. Their Impact series is on a decent sale in US Amazon, in case someone from the States is looking for a sub. The cheapest "ok" quality sub I've ever heard was from Argon Audio, but I don't think they make those anymore. Got my Argon Sub-8 for €60 so I can't complain too much. Don't worry about the surrounds. You can get any pair of decent cheap bookshelfs and use them as surrounds. Center is important, however.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2011 15:41
|
|
|
Anyone know of any good reviews on these two subs ? I upgraded my Klipsch Synergy stuff to the older Reference RF3 system. (dual 8" woofers, 6.5" woofers on center and 6.5" woofers and dual horn tweeters on surrounds) Problem is I had to sell my decent Klipsch Sub 12 and ended up with an older Klipsch KSW-12 sub in it's place. It's got about 1/3 the wattage, and the cabinet is much smaller. It doesn't extend as low as the Sub 12 which already doesn't extend low enough for my liking. Also neither sub is very "musical". Being a ported design, they're great for movies, and dig down pretty low (mid 20's) but it almost seems like all tones played from them are the low rumble and that is all. So I'd like to sell the KSW-12 and go with the following: Dual Epik Legends (dual 12" sealed x 2) http://www.epiksubwoofers.com/legend.html Cost = $900 Dual Rythmik FV12 (Single 12" ported servo x 2) http://www.rythmikaudio.com/FV12.html Cost = $1000 Both websites would have you believe that this is the best subwoofer offered with the flattest response curve. I'm thinking the Epik Legend is going to be the better buy, as it will be 4 12" woofers in total rather than 2. There is no replacement for displacement. I'm not going for max SPL. I'm more concerned about low frequency extension, accuracy and punchy-ness. Room size is around 2200 cu ft, and I listen to 50% music and 50% movie tracks. I am shying away from the ported design as that is what I have had for the last 3 subs. I am thinking the sealed design might lend itself better to tightness and maybe a better sound for bass guitar notes in jazz and blues. I also want a forward firing sub versus a floor pointed sub. I have a feeling it would be quieter to the neighbors downstairs. No complaints, but a fully concrete building with a 20hz tone must carry through.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2011 02:15
|
|
|
I don't have any personal experience with either, but they are 2 of about 5 or 6 that are constantly hyped in the sub section of avsforum and you should be able to easily find multiple threads comparing them as well as some sub shootouts with both. I think Rythmik has a rep as being a more accurate and musical sub. Personally if I had $1,000 to drop on a sub I would get a ULS 15 from HSU Sealed, goes really low, lots of power, seems about perfect in my eyes. Maybe dual subs is a requirement for you, but I would definitely look at the ULS-15. I have a smaller ported sub from HSU and I think the performance for the $ is pretty unbeatable.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2011 02:52
|
|
|
jonathan posted:Anyone know of any good reviews on these two subs ? Disclaimer: I personally have a Rythmik F15. The key words that you said which make me suggest one over the other is "tight notes" and "jazz and blues". You seem to be able to discern tightness and are looking for high sound quality over anything. In such a case, I'd definitely go for Rythmik over Epik and Hsu (having heard all three). While all three are decent, Rythmik subwoofers, at least to me, sound the most musical at all frequencies. Rythmik subwoofers also go extraordinarily deep, which is exactly what you want. People who buy Epik/Hsu generally are looking for output and "wow factor" in movies. Usually, the definition of "wow factor" is the fact that your entire chair shakes. If this is what "wows" you, then Hsu/Epik will likely be better.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2011 04:41
|
|
|
I wanted dual subs for the in-room frequency response and smoothness. With my room, if I place the single sub along the front soundstage, it disappears, but I find it to lack range or punchyness. It only does the rumble. If I move it around, I get a way better punch out of it. It's way more musical, but it's really localized. At seemingly any tone I can point out where the bass is coming from and it's distracting. I am somewhat convinced that a 2 sub setup used as end tables on each side of the couch will benefit me. Or one along the front soundstage and one off the the side.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2011 04:44
|
|
|
ntan1 posted:Disclaimer: I personally have a Rythmik F15. Thanks. I've done a ton more reading and reviews. I read some reviews and tests on the Rythmik FV15. If the FV15 is like the FV12 but with 3 more DB, I think the FV12 would be fine for me. Max spl is not my concern. Low frequency extension and "musicality" (God I feel like an rear end in a top hat for using that word) are my most important features. I would almost think the F12 would be better suited, as it is advertised as even tighter, and goes down to 14hz, but it's $300 more per unit. I can't justify $1600 in subwoofers right now or probably ever.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2011 04:49
|
|
|
Since I'm having trouble finding places to hide my speakers, I was thinking of getting the Cambridge Audio Minx speakers, specifically the Minx 325 line. Does anyone have experience with those? Would it make sense to connect these up to something like an Onkyo TX-NR709 or would that be considered overkill and should I go with something a bit lighter, like the 509? I do have the feeling that the 709 would futureproof me a great deal more, but still. Edit: An additional reason I like the Minxes is that the subwoofer could fit beneath my couch quite nicely, which is important to me since those big massive subwoofers are impossible to hide. Sagacity fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Dec 29, 2011 |
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2011 10:13
|
|
|
jonathan posted:I wanted dual subs for the in-room frequency response and smoothness. With my room, if I place the single sub along the front soundstage, it disappears, but I find it to lack range or punchyness. It only does the rumble. You may be exactly right with what you need, but I will say you may not have that same experience with a better sub (If I remember you were using a Klipsch synergy) and you may find that with something like the F12 it meets all your needs when placed on your front stage. I know from myself that I have been much happier getting what I really want instead of an intermediate solution, and while using 2 will get a smoother response, it will never get them to go deeper, so make sure the unit you choose is capable of hitting every aspect of what you want it to do.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2011 14:52
|
|
|
HSU was the "musical" sub before rythmik was even around. Everything i read still says they tend to do that pretty well. SVS was known as the boomy sub not good for music (i think they now tune their subs a lot better though) I had a hsu vtf2 mk3 and several times i had my receiver setup to play with my sub and didnt realize it was on, to give an idea of how well it integrated with floorstanders that i usually had set for full-range on music. Rythmik is good and ive recommended them im just saying hes pretty much wrong about what hsu is known for. The HSU VTF15H even has Q adjustments on it for those who specifically want to tune it for certain types of uses, same as the rythmiks You can probably safely go with both rythmik or hsu. How much have you read from data-bass? Its all done by this guy named ricci who posts on AVS and does reviews for audioholics and is an authority on the numbers behind subs, as opposed to any sub review you read elsewhere which IMO is completely subjective bullshit. http://www.data-bass.com/systems I guess ill just spit out as my sub knowledge as possible: two subs is good because it smooths out nulls and peaks in a room.. always a good thing. Adding another sub usually adds +3db to everything as a rule of thumb. Its a trade off, spend all the money on one sub and have big peaks and nulls but probably a significant increase in output or buy two and have a smoothed room response ported vs sealed: ported gains a lot of output above the tuning point. I guess the fv12 is tuned to 20hz? below that the driver will go nuts, so it probably falls off sharply because the amp is employing a high pass filter at 20hz. Ported subs tend to be larger as well, but they play nicer with much weaker amps because with large volume and a port you are making the sub more efficient. Generally i think internet direct sealed subs lack the amp power needed to get 100% out of the driver, so thats something to consider Sealed doesnt have a tuning point, the way you "tune" the box is either make the box smaller or bigger. Smaller boxes make the woofer more efficient at higher freq and bigger boxes make the woofer less efficient at high frequencies but have more extension. If the designers smart and wants a small box they'll boost the low end a bit and hopefully get an amp that can deal with all the boost (basically boosting isnt some magical thing.. it just requires a ton of power from the amp to make a flatter freq response). The epik legend shoves two 12" into a pretty small rear end enclosure with not so great amp. With the epik empire you got a frequency response that really rubs me the wrong way... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1351494 The amp is actually boosting and then high pass filtering right after that, which is blah to me. Sealeds SHOULD be designed to need minimal or no high pass at all and roll off naturally to provide a lot of in-room extension. If theres thousands of watts then the designer can boost the signal Ported SHOULD be designed to offer a lot of output above tuning but not have a tuning point thats super high either (then you would have a pro sound sub thats made for a club). Number one problem for any decently designed and powerful ported sub is port noise. Thats why whenever you see someone spending a couple grand on building their own subs that will hit like a truck they almost never go with ported, its simply too hard to control port noise due to the amount of air moving. The FV12 is probably not dealing with enough displacement to cause port noise For example lets throw a 12" subwoofer in a 2cu ft box sealed and then a 12" subwoofer in a 4cu ft box with a port, youve just gained +3db (above the tuning point) over that sealed subwoofer. +3db is huge. However the sealed subwoofer will roll off slower so it will have more lows generally. As said above, add another driver to that 2cu ft sealed box and you sort of just got +3db.. sort of. The problem with the epik legend is i dont trust epik. Their frequency response charts in ground plane (literally measured in the middle of a field) are all hosed up, not only is the box probably too small for the T/S parameters of the woofer, but on top of that they have the amp doing a lot of weird poo poo too (im basing this off of the epik empire review). On the flip side the servo motor makes a rythmik FV15HP super accurate. Unfortunately the FV15hp has some roll off due to the servo that starts at like 80hz. So i wouldnt cross it over above that. Im assuming that the guy who runs rythmik really likes making subwoofers that play ruler flat in ground plane, which is how it should be. Read up on the FV15HP to get an idea of how it differs with the epik empire http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1342986 One final thing, you were like me and thought that the rythmik F12 was amazing for hitting 14hz when it isnt that amazing at all. At the time i had an idea of how they did it, but wasnt sure. Basically the way you do it is you just boost the low end way way too much, or vice versa, pull "down" the 14hz and above in a gradual curve. I can tell you for sure that in ground plane it only plays to 14hz flat around 80-85db. After that all the amp boost simply runs out on the low end, and the rest of the subwoofer will continue to play loudly while 14hz will continue to stay at 80-85db. This is all part of power compression http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/speakers/subwoofers/asw-610xp/asw610xppowercompression.jpg/image_view_fullscreen Notice how the sub when not being pushed hard have an f3 of 27hz, but when the amp and driver are pushed to its limits its f3 is now suddenly 37hz. Thats a huge difference. The big problem is your speakers are 98db/1w sensitivity. If you fed 1 watt to your speakers and had two rythmik F12s, even with room gain, the amps would probably be maxing its boost if there was any 14hz material, and with room gain you would not even be hitting 98db. edit: WALL OF TEXT. My conclusion is i would probably buy two rythmik FV12, or one HSU VTF-15H or one FV15HP and hope my room doesnt have lovely peaks and nulls. edit 2: or if youre comfortable with DIY you can have https://www.edesignaudio.com build some nice matte black boxes and then screw your own drivers in and use a behringer amp. ill help you figure it all out if you want. coolskillrex remix fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Dec 29, 2011 |
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2011 18:28
|
|
|
Wow that has to be one of the best posts in any of the audio related threads on SA. Thanks for taking the time, very informative and down to earth. I now am considering a single F12, and adding a second way down the road if I am unhappy with the room characteristics. Another thought would be to run the single sub, and then when I move everything to the dedicated room in about a year from now, build up a Danley DIY kit for sub 20hz stuff. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2011 19:01
|
|
|
Yeah that was said better with more knowledge than I could have put it. But I do think the correct decision is to get 1 sub that does everything you would want a sub to do for you, and then worry about adding a second one later.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2011 19:03
|
|
|
Sagacity posted:Since I'm having trouble finding places to hide my speakers, I was thinking of getting the Cambridge Audio Minx speakers, specifically the Minx 325 line. Does anyone have experience with those? The receiver is a fine choice. I posted about it a couple weeks back. I can't think of anything that offers the wattage, the stability down to 3.2 ohms and pre-outs for that price. If you can't see yourself ever using an extra amp, you might want to consider the 609, same receiver but without the pre-outs. http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/ONKTXNR609/Onkyo-TX-NR609-7.2-Channel-3-D-Ready-Network-A/V-Receiver/1.html $320 refurbished. As for those speakers, they don't seem special at all. The advertised lower range is 120hz. I would think the results would be the same as any home theatre in a box setup. Your money would be much better spent on a set of bookshelf speakers that can reach down to 80hz.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2011 19:36
|
|
|
Can some of you with higher end subwoofers or bigger floorstanding speakers give this song a listen and tell me your impressions of the low bass guitar tones during the song intro ? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xS3NkhjsBf0 For musical bass performance, this is sort of my reference song. That intro with some subwoofer setups will sound very muddy and basically just sound like a synth hip hop bass tone. With other subwoofer setups, the sound will come out like a bass guitar, with string noise and fluctuations. Like a wobbly string instrument. While obviously a youtube source wont be ideal, I'd like to know what the bigger musical subs sound like. Does it sound like a solid tone or do you hear fluctuations in the tone during the intro ? Edit: going to post the same request in the rythmik thread on AVS and read their opinions too.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2011 21:29
|
|
|
jonathan posted:As for those speakers, they don't seem special at all. The advertised lower range is 120hz. I would think the results would be the same as any home theatre in a box setup. Your money would be much better spent on a set of bookshelf speakers that can reach down to 80hz. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2011 13:49
|
|
|
If your room is having issues with peaks and nulls, you may wish to consider investing in bass traps/paneling. Often enough, with just bare minimal treatment, you can tame those more than a second sub would. I'd recommend reading Ethan Winer's article on the subject. Good traps do end up becoming expensive, but simple ones often go at approximately 60 dollars a piece. http://www.ethanwiner.com/acoustics.html jonathan posted:Can some of you with higher end subwoofers or bigger floorstanding speakers give this song a listen and tell me your impressions of the low bass guitar tones during the song intro ? The bass guitar sounds perfectly fine on the Rythmik F15 except for the fact that the recording isn't very good (this is typical of youtube videos and rock tracks these days that are sold in the US). I suspect you'd probably get the same response from all of the subwoofers that have been discussed in the last 10 posts, honestly. ntan1 fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Dec 31, 2011 |
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2011 03:59
|
|
|
I'm looking to get a sound bar setup for our living room. It's an ill-shaped apartment and our 5.1 setup is not very idea. I'm going to move it to my office/videogame/movie room so I'm looking for a decent under $200 sound bar to go in the living room. I don't really know what to look for. My only 5.1 systems are essentially those z560 Logitech systems that are typically computer oriented. I know sound bars aren't the best solutions, but it's what we've opted for for space reason.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2011 04:54
|
|
|
BonoMan posted:I know sound bars aren't the best solutions, but it's what we've opted for for space reason. Look up Sony HT-CT150 (350/550 if you can find those within your budget) or if you decide you want something a little better sounding, Yamaha YHT-series. As long as you know what you're getting there's nothing wrong with a sound bar. In some cases they're the best option.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2011 07:38
|
|
|
Hob_Gadling posted:Just in case you change your mind but still want a budget solution: while that is a beautiful sub it costs about twice as much as the amp so I might have to pass on that, I guess I'll just keep an eye out and ask my boss if I can "liberate" one from work. Im thinking more along the lines of this sort of thing, http://www.richersounds.com/product/subwoofers/yamaha/ystfsw050/yama-ystfsw050-blk Would that do the job? I've not got a massively powerful amp and its only going in a small room and as far as I'm concerned bass is fine as long as it doesn't noticeably sound poo poo. Solly fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Dec 31, 2011 |
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2011 19:31
|
|
|
Hob_Gadling posted:Look up Sony HT-CT150 (350/550 if you can find those within your budget) or if you decide you want something a little better sounding, Yamaha YHT-series. As long as you know what you're getting there's nothing wrong with a sound bar. In some cases they're the best option. Awesome thanks! I have credit from Amazon so I'm going to have to get it from them and they don't have the 350. Just the 550 and 150. I'm not opposed to the 70 bucks more for the 550 and will probably do that. I want to mount it under the TV on the wall and a wireless sub will mean one less wire traipsing down the wall. Although gently caress...sound bar mounts are more expensive than TV mounts.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2011 20:14
|
|
|
Pioneer VSX-821-K 5.1 $179 with free shipping @ http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-VSX-821-K-Theater-Receiver-Glossy/dp/B004M8RPB8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1325472474&sr=1-2 Couldn't believe how cheap it was now. I paid almost this much for a used AVR-391
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2012 05:43
|
|
|
I would like to get a receiver and 5.1 speakers for $400 or so. (I have Amazon Prime and live in San Francisco). I would, however, consider a receiver and soundbar setup, but only if this could be upgraded to a proper 5.1 setup in the future. I have three HDMI devices already and might get a fourth; I also have the Wii, which uses component, so I need a receiver which can take all these inputs. Right now, the toslink out from the 360, PS3, and TV (for the Roku and Wii) feeds into a toslink switcher and thence into an Astro Gaming Mixamp, which setup I would like to keep for gaming (so at least the 360 and PS3 audio should be able to go to a toslink out or the speakers, depending on the particular situation). I'm pretty sure this means the receiver needs to have a toslink out, but maybe there's some other option I'm overlooking. The PS3 and TV both support 3D, so I need the receiver to be able to pass that through. Other bonus features would include a HDMI in on the front (for convenient hooking up of a laptop or iPad), other support for various Apple devices, or some sort of LAN connectivity. Any suggestions? I've skimmed (some of) the thread and looked at various recievers, but I don't see any with toslink out.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2012 08:20
|
|
|
So are the brands listed in the op the real viable options, because most of the stores around here carry different stuff Harman Kardon, LG, Panasonic, Philips, Samsung, Sony. Is this an US vs EU thing or do the stores near me just have lovely selections.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2012 19:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 29, 2024 18:46 |
|
|
canada jezus posted:Is this an US vs EU thing or do the stores near me just have lovely selections. Find better stores. Harman/Kardon notwithstanding (they make nice stereo amps) the stuff you listed is designed to compete with price and looks, not quality of sound. Both sides of the Atlantic should have at least the brands mentioned in OP; I've purposefully left out the more esoteric (and often, expensive) models.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2012 20:25
|
|