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CombatMedic posted:Is there a good solution to using a GPS on a bike? I want to start taking longer trips, but I don't want to have to stop every 20 minutes to check a map/phone. I've used a Garmin 60csx for years now. It's hands down the best GPS I've ever used. I have it in a Touratech mount, the buttons are easy to operate with gloves on, and it's survived storms of a biblical scale, it's been a few creeks on backpacking trips, operated well at 9F and it's cheap at ~$200. A RAM mount for the unit is cheap but I spend a fair bit of time riding off road so I wanted something more durable. The downsides? well the screen is small but aside from trying to plan multi-day trips on the handheld unit (I do this on my laptop/with paper maps since I've never found a GPS which is comfortable for this purpose) it works just fine. It zooms in to provide a great view of upcoming intersections. It's also super simple. It has no bluetooth hub, no XM weather overlay, no touch screen, etc. It's just a GPS with a color screen, solid software and that's it. It dosen't float, so if you plan to use it on a boat a bunch get one of the 76 series which float but have harder to work buttons.  Protip: the Garmin 60cx is the same unit but without the internal compass (I use the GPS compass all the time since the internal one is so flaky anyway and carry a regular compass when backpacking), it's also cheaper.
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Jan 4, 2012 22:38
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Keep in mind that the primary purpose of a GPS is not mapping, or even routing, it is navigation along a defined route. If you try to map on the GPS, meaning figuring out what is around you or between you and your destination, you're going to suffer from poor data quality and screen size no matter what. GPS units are particularly bad at separating between main routes and overgrown, unused fire roads when you get down to the level of small rural roads. Even viewing mapsets on the computer is frustrating, since you either get ALL OF THE ROADS or just main arteries. YMMV, that's my point of view for dual sport touring on the backroads.
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Jan 4, 2012 22:56
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JP Money posted:If it does it at 25 it will do it at 15. It's going to be a little harder though since it's that much colder. Yeah, I normally keep a spare battery on the tender, but the seat on the Bonneville is also a pain in the rear end to get on and off to replace the battery, and I have to park a block away from my house. Usually way easier just to bump it but clearly that's not the case in January.
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Jan 4, 2012 23:11
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It helps me to try to park the bike so it gets some sun in the morning if possible. This is TX though so YMMV in some other arctic climate.
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Jan 4, 2012 23:19
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Got a bit of a question about tyre pressures, specifically how much is 10psi likely to affect handling? When i bought my bike the dealer i got it from had the tyres at 38 pounds even though the manual states 28 front and rear. I recently had it serviced by a ktm dealer and they put the pressure back up to 38 again. Just wondering what pressure i should be running at - bike is a KTM 690 SM.
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Jan 4, 2012 23:59
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Aargh posted:Got a bit of a question about tyre pressures, specifically how much is 10psi likely to affect handling? When i bought my bike the dealer i got it from had the tyres at 38 pounds even though the manual states 28 front and rear. I recently had it serviced by a ktm dealer and they put the pressure back up to 38 again. Just wondering what pressure i should be running at - bike is a KTM 690 SM. 38psi cold!? I can only imagine the bike must be really skittish at that kind of pressure. Have you ridden in the wet at that pressure? Yeah, 28 is what you should be at (I have the SMC), I'd ask them why next time you go there. If they give you some 'we know better than the mfg' bullshit I'd find another dealer. I stopped using my dealer for anything other than occaisional parts after a couple of badly executed repairs and a costly mis-diagnosis. Too many mechanics these days are just part-fitters and have no attention to detail.
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Jan 5, 2012 00:28
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I find 28/26 to be pretty decent for around town with pilot powers on a DRZ. 38 is pretty crazy - I ran that in my old F4i for highway commuting. I can't imagine how unfriendly supermoto tires would be at nearly 40psi.
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Jan 5, 2012 00:55
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Aargh posted:Got a bit of a question about tyre pressures, specifically how much is 10psi likely to affect handling? When i bought my bike the dealer i got it from had the tyres at 38 pounds even though the manual states 28 front and rear. I recently had it serviced by a ktm dealer and they put the pressure back up to 38 again. Just wondering what pressure i should be running at - bike is a KTM 690 SM. Your dealer is dumb as gently caress. I ran my SMC at 28/28 for street and distance riding. Lower for track, typically around 24-26 depending on temp and conditions.
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Jan 5, 2012 01:35
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ReelBigLizard posted:38psi cold!? I can only imagine the bike must be really skittish at that kind of pressure. Have you ridden in the wet at that pressure? Yeah I've ridden a bit at those pressures, it was a bit skittish in the wet or on dirt. I'll keep them down around 28 from now on. Other little question about tyre pressures is that do they vary by tyre? I know on my mountain bike i can ride knobblies at about 25-30 pounds or slicks closer to 100.
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Jan 5, 2012 01:47
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Aargh posted:Yeah I've ridden a bit at those pressures, it was a bit skittish in the wet or on dirt. I'll keep them down around 28 from now on. Peoples personal preferences on psi can absolutely vary by tire. Figure you're safe with a 4-6 psi range from stock, staying over 20psi and under 32 on a sumo. There is some more info on psi and construction in the tire thread.
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Jan 5, 2012 03:20
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Like Z3n, I generally stay + or - 5psi from stock. I tend to ride my tires on the overinflated side. Its a personal thing, really, depends on what your riding style is, and your personal preferences.
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Jan 5, 2012 03:43
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MotoMind posted:Keep in mind that the primary purpose of a GPS is not mapping, or even routing, it is navigation along a defined route. If you try to map on the GPS, meaning figuring out what is around you or between you and your destination, you're going to suffer from poor data quality and screen size no matter what. GPS units are particularly bad at separating between main routes and overgrown, unused fire roads when you get down to the level of small rural roads. Even viewing mapsets on the computer is frustrating, since you either get ALL OF THE ROADS or just main arteries. YMMV, that's my point of view for dual sport touring on the backroads. Unused fire roads are one pain, we found a worse one on vacation with my parents. Down on the coast, apparently roads on the coast can change or straight disappear. We were down in gulf shores alabama with a GPS that hadn't been updated, and the path we took from the beach to the restaurant had us taking a road that was just sand. One big sand berm. One of the big storms a year or so before completely killed that little section of road and they just went around it, but the GPS didn't know. I cracked up hearing it tell us to turn left when there was nothing but sand and a pole sticking out of the ground. Of course our maps could have just been old...
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Jan 5, 2012 07:44
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So I was heading to work today on my F2 and didn't need to use much throttle to get around until I hit the highway, as I was accelerating to merge I realized that my throttle won't turn past 1/8th or less throttle, so I was barely able to maintain 65-70. Turned around and brought it home and since then I've adjusted the cable a bit to take the slack out but all of my tools are at a buddies house so I can't even get the fairings or tank off just yet to check anything else out until about noon. Is it possible that something got stuck under the grip and is actually blocking it from turning, or maybe the cable is bound? Anyone run into this before?
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Jan 6, 2012 17:50
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More than likely the cable is bound up somewhere.
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Jan 6, 2012 18:02
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Cable might have slipped off the channel in the throttle tube in the instrument pod. I'd check there first.
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Jan 6, 2012 19:03
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Found out what it was, there is a breather tube or something in between the carbs where the cable runs, and somehow it managed to block the throttle. Problem solved! Going to take the gas tank off when I get the petcock switch and find out what exactly it is.
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Jan 7, 2012 06:04
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Just getting int the motorcycle game, and am I looking under the wrong terminology or does no one make "universal" mufflers like they do for cars. Certain inlet/outlet diameter and length? Is there a master list of all manufacturers of aftermarket items floating around the forums?
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Jan 7, 2012 07:49
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Many bikes are capable of having "universal" mufflers/cherry bombs/etc fit on them (though you'll have to fabricate a mounting system yourself) as long as you match up the pipe diameter, but an increasing percentage are not. You'll notice that a lot of motorcycles, especially multi-cylinder bikes, have convoluted, twisting exhaust systems, and proprietarily-shaped silencers. For those bikes, you'll have to search within a specific model range. Step 1: Find a bike Step 2: Find a muffler appropriate for Step 1's bike. You can't really do step 2 first.
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Jan 7, 2012 08:03
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Gonna sound like a old curmudgeon but as fun as a bad rear end exhaust is, depending on your riding habits a quiet, tuned to the bike stock exhaust can be preferable. Get a can for sure, they're fun as hell and hearing your bike scream is awesome. Just don't immediately sell or ditch the stock set up is all...
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Jan 7, 2012 09:10
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McTinkerson posted:Just getting int the motorcycle game, and am I looking under the wrong terminology or does no one make "universal" mufflers like they do for cars. Certain inlet/outlet diameter and length? If you want serious advise, you'd do us a great favor being a bit more specific. What bike do you need exhaust pieces for? nsaP posted:but as fun as a bad rear end exhaust is, depending on your riding habits a quiet, tuned to the bike stock exhaust can be preferable. You know this isn't really true for a 2-stroke. What if the poor chap is riding a GT750 or a RD500. Then what? Sacrifice performance for your loving ears? No way, 200dB and earplugs will be needed here. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 12:23 on Jan 7, 2012 |
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Jan 7, 2012 12:19
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Doubly so if it's an RE-5
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Jan 7, 2012 16:38
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Yes, I probably should have been more specific. Bike is an XS500C and the stock pipes are rusted out. I want the quietest most free flowing exhaust possible with the weight being on quiet. So best bet would be to figure out my inlet diameter and look for a new-ish sports bike with the same rough dimensions for it's factory can?
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Jan 7, 2012 18:15
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One of these days I will fix up an RE-5 with new internal seals, straight pipes, and a mild street port. It will be glorious. *brapbrapbrap* *brapbrapbrap* *brapbrapbrap* AND SO SUBLIMELY LOUD.
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Jan 7, 2012 18:16
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clutchpuck posted:One of these days I will fix up an RE-5 with new internal seals, straight pipes, and a mild street port. It will be glorious. *brapbrapbrap* *brapbrapbrap* *brapbrapbrap* AND SO SUBLIMELY LOUD. How hard is it to adapt Go-Kart engines to motorcycle? With an Aixro XR50 ( http://www.woelfle-engineering.com/Produkte/produkte_XR50rotaryengine_en.html ), every bike can be an RE-5. Ninja 250 + XR50 = Miniature Norton F1 (Add Fuel injection & Turbo for suicide machine)
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Jan 7, 2012 18:29
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Are there any resources on the internet for finding out what rider weight a stock bike is setup for? Race Tech doesn't have any info for the Husky SM450R, and surprisingly neither does SMJ and Cafe Husky. I could have sworn I saw 180lbs somewhere but now I can't find anything at all.
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Jan 7, 2012 18:33
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Gnaghi posted:Are there any resources on the internet for finding out what rider weight a stock bike is setup for? Race Tech doesn't have any info for the Husky SM450R, and surprisingly neither does SMJ and Cafe Husky. I could have sworn I saw 180lbs somewhere but now I can't find anything at all. Most bikes seem to be set up for the ideal race rider. So like 130-150 lbs.
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Jan 7, 2012 18:52
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Yeah then that would require a new spring (I'm 190). Hopefully one of the three shops I emailed gets back to me with some solid info. I actually contacted Race Tech last year and forgot about it since they never emailed me back.
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Jan 7, 2012 19:39
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Yeah at 190 you could probably use a heavier spring, although thats not so far off the stock range, so I wouldnt think you'd be absolutely squashing the stockers. If you were 250, thats another story. Does the bike need a respring, or do you just want to get it set up for exactly your weight?
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Jan 7, 2012 20:12
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Just set it up. I'm mean it felt fine riding on the street and two beginner races once I lowered the tire psi. Going from Distanzas to Conti SM tires right before the first event made it feel pretty stiff though. According to some guy on SMJ: quote:sent my forks and shock to Fastbikeindustries for proper setup. Dave revalved the forks and told me that the stock spring was sufficient for my weight (190 w/out gear). This is for 50% track / 50% street riding. ...so I might be good for now. Just need to set the race sag and play with the clickers.
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Jan 7, 2012 20:24
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I found a rather nice Buell XB12r in my area, and I'm pretty sure that I'm going to bite the bullet and get it. I noticed that no one suggested I get something a bit more tame when I mentioned wanting an XB9s, and even got a suggestion to look for an XB12. Is this too much bike for someone coming off a Blast? A little bit of history about me: I bought the Blast from my girlfriend (lol) last March. We had rain nearly every single day until mid May here in Ohio so my riding experience consisted of last year's season of May-October. Before I bought the bike, I took an MSF class but missed out on the riding portion. I've practiced everything that the MSF makes you do on the riding day though and I'm pretty much the boss at u-turns now. I put about 4,000 miles on the bike that ranged from commuting in my small town, twisty adventures in the country, and multiple trips on I70 up to Cleveland. Also one trip in a downpour, which was probably the most fun I've ever had in my life. I'm feeling pretty confident on the Blast, but I'm getting rather bored with it. So, I believe that I'm ready for it. I'm going to throw myself at the collective wisdom of CA, make an offering to the safety gods, and yield to whatever opinion you guys have.
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Jan 7, 2012 20:39
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Does anyone have any tips for getting the oil filter off on a 2007 VFR800? I'm on my second attempt right now having used just about every tool in the book to no avail.
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Jan 7, 2012 22:45
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Zombie Exterminator posted:Does anyone have any tips for getting the oil filter off on a 2007 VFR800? I'm on my second attempt right now having used just about every tool in the book to no avail. This dude bought a filter wrench, but it might suffice to jam a screwdriver through the housing and use the power of archimedes to show that bitch what's what. 
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Jan 7, 2012 22:53
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KARMA! posted:This dude bought a filter wrench, but it might suffice to jam a screwdriver through the housing and use the power of archimedes to show that bitch what's what. I would just get the filter wrench (socket type). Every story I've heard of someone doing the screwdriver thing left them with a still-suck oil filter, a huge mess and now no way to grab it.
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Jan 7, 2012 23:14
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astrollinthepork posted:I found a rather nice Buell XB12r in my area, and I'm pretty sure that I'm going to bite the bullet and get it. I noticed that no one suggested I get something a bit more tame when I mentioned wanting an XB9s, and even got a suggestion to look for an XB12. Is this too much bike for someone coming off a Blast? I ride an SV pretty much everyday, around 1k+ miles a month. I've been riding for about 5 years. I got to ride my buddies xb1125 today, and holy poo poo. It's a LOT of bike. The SV feels like a lovely dirtbike compared to it. I'd probably pass on the XB12 if I were you. Havn't rode the 9 yet, so I have no idea.
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Jan 8, 2012 00:16
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invision posted:I ride an SV pretty much everyday, around 1k+ miles a month. I've been riding for about 5 years. The 1125-engined Buells are a whole other kettle of fish compared to the Harley-powered machines. The XB12 shouldn't be too bad coming from a Blast, just take it easy and build up to it.
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Jan 8, 2012 01:21
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Gnaghi posted:I would just get the filter wrench (socket type). Every story I've heard of someone doing the screwdriver thing left them with a still-suck oil filter, a huge mess and now no way to grab it. The couple times I've done it, I just had to make sure I hammered straight through the element. As long as the filter wasn't over-tightened, it usually works fine. If your filter doesn't have the hex head on top, your best bet is to get one of those cup-type wrenches that squeeze the filter as you rotate it counter-clockwise. These thingers: http://www.ntxtools.com/Merchant/graphics/00000001/otc-6901.gif
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Jan 8, 2012 03:45
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invision posted:I ride an SV pretty much everyday, around 1k+ miles a month. I've been riding for about 5 years. The 1125s make like 50% more horsepower than a XB12. It is a lot of bike. A XB12 is enough to get in trouble with, but you can keep it reined.
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Jan 8, 2012 07:07
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Is it safe to assume that I shouldn't ride when my rear tire has one of these: It's right down the center tread on an already-worn tire. I can't tell how deep it is, but the tire still holds pressure. The replacement that I have on order isn't going to be here until Wednesday 
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Jan 8, 2012 17:24
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I noticed some oil on my front tire yesterday, and checked it out today. Right fork is leaking. I used a business card to clean out the fork seal and got out a bunch of fine sand. I'm going to keep checking it for leaking, but is the next step fork seal replacement? Do I need to do anything as far as checking the oil level?
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Jan 8, 2012 21:23
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AncientTV posted:Is it safe to assume that I shouldn't ride when my rear tire has one of these: I've ridden on tires with a small crack or two that looked similar to that with no problems. Searching other forums netted responses that it's basically a common sense thing - if the crack isn't huge and the rubber isn't super old, you're probably okay. If it's looking iffy, well, that's your call. It would probably also help to not encourage cold tearing by locking up the brakes or cornering hard while the tire is cold.
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Jan 8, 2012 22:04
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