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Instrumedley posted:I accidentally got fingerprints on the glass of my lens, what's the best way to clean them off? LensPen.
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May 18, 2012 17:47
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8th-samurai posted:You could paste the images into a 5x7 or 8x10 canvas in Photoshop and then just save that. 5x7 with a 1/2 inch border means a full 4x6 photo can fit  mpix.com has 2:3 print sizes though if you want to go borderless. Finding frames is kind of a pain in the rear end though and mats won't have a uniform border if you mat down a standard frame.
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May 18, 2012 18:45
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Instrumedley posted:I accidentally got fingerprints on the glass of my lens, what's the best way to clean them off? It probably doesn't matter 
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May 18, 2012 21:43
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David Pratt posted:It probably doesn't matter Here's another article where he finds an interesting side-effect of breaking off the glass completely http://kurtmunger.com/dirty_lens_articleid35.html
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May 18, 2012 22:07
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I guess I'll stop worrying about keeping my lens clean.
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May 19, 2012 00:18
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Instrumedley posted:I accidentally got fingerprints on the glass of my lens, what's the best way to clean them off?
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May 20, 2012 06:55
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Not sure if anyone has posted this already but I think it belongs in the OP: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/digital-camera-sensor-size.htm Some nice calculators for DOF equivalents and aperture diffraction limits, etc.
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May 20, 2012 06:58
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Can I use these batteries: http://www.amazon.com/Vinnic-PX625-L1560-Alkaline-Manganese-Batteries/dp/B002UV4NQO/ref=sr_1_2?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1337473139&sr=1-2 As a replacement for old PX625 mercury ones?
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May 22, 2012 06:49
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nemoulette posted:Can I use these batteries: They will probably mess up your metering system since their voltage drops as they're used. I think you can get silver-based cells that are a fairly close match but the meter may need to be recalibrated since the voltage is different IIRC.
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May 22, 2012 10:36
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What camera should I bring to a beach trip? A. Canon film SLR B. Canon digital SLR C. Olympus film p/s D. Comedy option: Holga 120N
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May 22, 2012 17:28
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Rugged digital P&S. You'll probably have tons of light to work with, so your photos should turn out fine. Using a digital camera means no opening up the camera which means less chance of heartbreak from sand.
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May 22, 2012 17:51
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HPL posted:Rugged digital P&S. You'll probably have tons of light to work with, so your photos should turn out fine. Using a digital camera means no opening up the camera which means less chance of heartbreak from sand. Well I don't HAVE one of thooose
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May 23, 2012 01:25
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the posted:Well I don't HAVE one of thooose You don't have a cell phone?
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May 23, 2012 05:01
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The DSLR. Stick ONE lens on it, don't remove it if you can see, feel, or smell sand. Put it in Av mode, F/11. Shoot wildly, be happy. Or buy a rugged water-resistant digital P&S for like $200 and take video in shallow water.
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May 23, 2012 05:13
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This is a bit of a shot in the dark, but I've been having fun jury-rigging my holga to shoot 35mm, but even with this http://microsites.lomography.com/digitaliza/ a slight bit gets cut off, and I realized it's possible to put the film in slightly crooked. Does anyone know of a way to get everything scanned? I'm using an Epsom v600 if that's important.
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May 24, 2012 07:42
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Skwirl posted:This is a bit of a shot in the dark, but I've been having fun jury-rigging my holga to shoot 35mm, but even with this http://microsites.lomography.com/digitaliza/ a slight bit gets cut off, and I realized it's possible to put the film in slightly crooked. Does anyone know of a way to get everything scanned? I'm using an Epsom v600 if that's important. If you have to have every last bit of film area scanned, try a Betterscanning medium format film holder and tape the negs to the bottom of the glass.
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May 24, 2012 12:11
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Skwirl posted:I'm using an Epsom Using salt on your negatives is going to hurt them in the long run  thank you, thank you, I'll be here all week
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May 24, 2012 13:21
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I don't know if this is the right place for this question, But if I'm trying to remove shiny eyes from photos from a cell phone from a birthday party last night what do I do? Heres the picture to show what I'm talking about : http://imgur.com/Aj1VA
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May 25, 2012 00:46
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Tenchrono posted:I don't know if this is the right place for this question, But if I'm trying to remove shiny eyes from photos from a cell phone from a birthday party last night what do I do? Why? It's not that bad, it's not an otherwise perfect pic, so why worry too much?
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May 25, 2012 01:25
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torgeaux posted:Why? It's not that bad, it's not an otherwise perfect pic, so why worry too much? Thumbnail pic makes it look like I'm shooting lasers out of my eyes.  But if you guys think its fine ill keep it as is. Edit: VVVV Sadly no, it was a crappy cell phone in a dark restaurant. It looks fine on a phone though. Tenchrono fucked around with this message at 02:44 on May 25, 2012 |
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May 25, 2012 01:53
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Nothing in the picture is in focus, can't you get a picture that is actually in focus?
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May 25, 2012 02:04
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Is there a way to make LR export 2 different res files for each pic? This would be very useful for me 
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May 26, 2012 19:54
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So, I've got a D70, knobs are a bit stiff, and the memory doesn't always register the first time I plug it in. The kit lens has decided to develop a hangup so that rather than an 18-70 it is about a 25-38, or a 40-60. Repairs on the lens from the local outfit is 150$ prepaid plus 20$ shipping (may come under this). A used 18-70 is about 185$, and I could have it in 2 days, rather than 6-8 weeks. But I feel bad about throwing away what...other than the not working, is a remarkably good (10 year old, kit) lens. Alternatively, I could pick up a new D7000 with the 18-105 kit for around 1600. I shoot bugs and airplanes, I have a 60mm macro and a 75-300 telephoto I use for these and I am happy with them. It is just the taking pictures of my family lens that is busted. So goons, what would you do if you were me? Is a d7000 the way to go? Is there something else I should consider?
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May 26, 2012 20:32
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Steve McScene posted:Is there a way to make LR export 2 different res files for each pic?
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May 26, 2012 22:31
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Didn't see a generic licensing / monetizing thread so I'll ask here. I recently got into photography for the purpose of providing shots of interviews I help conduct for an opera website. I've started getting requests from some of our interviewees (well, their managers / agents) about using the photos in press kits, as art for interviews with other sites, etc. I have no problem allowing my shots to be used in any non-revenue generating capacity but would like to reserve my rights so they aren't selling autographed copies of a photo I took. Anyone who has been through the muddle of licensing options and could point me in the right direction? Thanks.
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May 28, 2012 05:16
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regulargonzalez posted:Didn't see a generic licensing / monetizing thread so I'll ask here. I recently got into photography for the purpose of providing shots of interviews I help conduct for an opera website. I've started getting requests from some of our interviewees (well, their managers / agents) about using the photos in press kits, as art for interviews with other sites, etc. I have no problem allowing my shots to be used in any non-revenue generating capacity but would like to reserve my rights so they aren't selling autographed copies of a photo I took. Anyone who has been through the muddle of licensing options and could point me in the right direction? Thanks. Check out the Photo Business thread. Someone in there should be able to point you in the right direction.
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May 29, 2012 06:07
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How do you properly meter when using a flash?
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May 29, 2012 17:48
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the posted:How do you properly meter when using a flash? A few options: -Guess and readjust your exposure after the first shot (looking at your histogram helps here) -Shoot in TTL mode - the camera will adjust flash power based on the exposure you're metering (this assumes you're using a TTL flash) -Buy an incident light meter and measure the flash output to get the correct exposure TheAngryDrunk fucked around with this message at 17:57 on May 29, 2012 |
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May 29, 2012 17:54
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This is fun. A guy here in town who I've known for many years has been doing hobbyist photography for quite a while now. I've always described him as my nemesis because he always seems to be naturally and effortlessly successful at all of the things that I try, but is (now) such a congenial and nice guy that I can't begrudge him anything. Anyway, he took a picture of the city and put it up on his blog, and the picture was used by a lawyer for disabled kids. Jay sends a DMCA request and things get weird. He's taken the original blog post down, but this article has a link to a cache. http://www.petapixel.com/2012/05/25/photographer-threatened-with-lawsuit-after-protecting-his-copyright/
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May 29, 2012 20:06
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the posted:How do you properly meter when using a flash? Not sure what you are really asking here. If you are talking about just shooting a simple flash shot, then yeah, use Auto/TTL and go from there. If you are asking how to meter the REST of the scene, here is what I generally do to get decent results: Manual exposure mode. Set shutter speed and aperture roughly to proper exposure (use your in-camera meter). Keep your shutter speed at or below sync speed of the flash. Dial down the exposure a stop or so, effectively underexposing the scene a bit. Here I might for instance start with a 1/60 f/8 setting to properly expose the scene, and change that to 1/125 f/8. Then I add the flash. The flash does not care what your shutter speed is (for all practical purposes, the light is instant), so you just worry about matching it to your ISO and aperture. You could do this using an auto mode, or go all-manual setting it to 1/4, 1/8, 1/16 etc to achieve a reasonable flash exposure. The basic equation is guide number divided by subject distance equals aperture. OK, maybe this got too complicated. But basically, go manual, underexpose the scene a bit, add enough flash to get the subject properly exposed.
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May 29, 2012 20:44
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Or you could just use a flash meter 
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May 29, 2012 20:53
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TheLastManStanding posted:Or you could just use a flash meter A flash meter is good for determining the proper flash exposure, but you generally want your ambient light to fall nicely, unless you are shooting in a studio. Here is a good Strobist post that covers the thing in much more detail and with a better explanation than mine: http://strobist.blogspot.se/2006/03/lighting-101-balancing-flash-and.html
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May 29, 2012 21:07
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squidflakes posted:This is fun. A guy here in town who I've known for many years has been doing hobbyist photography for quite a while now. I've always described him as my nemesis because he always seems to be naturally and effortlessly successful at all of the things that I try, but is (now) such a congenial and nice guy that I can't begrudge him anything. I hate you for linking to her blog. I read some it (as much as I could before my brain locked up) and now I hate humanity more than ever. She needs to be run over by a dump truck.
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May 29, 2012 21:15
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spog posted:I hate you for linking to her blog. She claims to be an attorney. God, please let it be hyperbole, as she is a terrible writer, has no clue about the law (perjury? Really?). I need to scrub my eyeballs.
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May 30, 2012 00:27
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This seems like the most reasonable place to ask, so: would there be any problem with me supergluing the clip ring of a lens cap back together? It's just a simple plastic circle that fits into the body of the cap, and deforming the circle lets you pull off the cap. However, it's well over twenty years old, and so it's finally snapped in half. Could I just superglue it back together? If that's an awful idea, then how are lens caps sized? The only marking on it is ø49, which is the thread depth, unless I am an idiot and that's the diameter or something. Also, you'd be surprised how poo poo at writing some lawyers are, from what I hear. Besides, I rather doubt she'd be quite so quick to resort to threatening lawsuits and the like in reality. The internet makes people stupid and overly litigious. Then again, an attorney should probably know better than to leave crap like that in writing. So, possibly just an idiot.
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May 31, 2012 18:01
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Zenostein posted:This seems like the most reasonable place to ask, so: would there be any problem with me supergluing the clip ring of a lens cap back together? It's just a simple plastic circle that fits into the body of the cap, and deforming the circle lets you pull off the cap. However, it's well over twenty years old, and so it's finally snapped in half. Could I just superglue it back together? You're an idiot (It is the diameter and superglue won't work well. ebay a cheap replacement)
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May 31, 2012 18:16
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Yes I am. Well, that's a lot easier then. Thanks!
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May 31, 2012 18:18
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spog posted:I hate you for linking to her blog.  She looks just like you would expect her to look. Look at this picture while picturing her typing that blog...
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May 31, 2012 18:20
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Zenostein posted:Yes I am. Well, that's a lot easier then. Thanks! Seriously you can probably eBay a new lens cap for cheaper than you could buy a tube of Superglue.
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May 31, 2012 18:23
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Is there any noticeable image degradation or loss of editing flexibility going from RAW to SRAW1 or SRAW2? I normally shoot Raw, but I want to do some timelapses and 21 MB Raw files fill my card awfully quick.
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Jun 1, 2012 18:36
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