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Sinestro posted:If I overclock an overclockable Catleap, will I be able to run nVidia 3D stuff on it?
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May 19, 2012 18:23
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DrDork posted:No. The Catleaps overclock to something like 75-80Hz. For 3D stuff you need 120Hz. Some do go to 120hz.
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May 19, 2012 18:29
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Yay my monitor arrived!  For reference it's this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220961455233#ht_8159wt_1163 "ACHIEVA Shimian QH270-Lite Quad HD 2560x1440 16:9 D-Sub Computer Monitor" Only weird thing is a couple of times so far it seems to just fade out and go to black until I turn it on and off a few times. I hope this isn't indiciative of a problem and some wacky software thing, but I happened to catch the fade once and it looked like it was going out column by column in a pattern across the screen. Oh god. It's so big. Edit: just did some fullscreen colors and looked around and I don't even see any dead pixels, and certainly no stuck ones! Boten Anna fucked around with this message at 18:55 on May 19, 2012 |
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May 19, 2012 18:45
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Cygni posted:Some do go to 120hz.
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May 19, 2012 20:49
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Well, my excitement was premature. Pretty sure I got a broken one, I'm having the same problem this person is having: http://badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=20382 Basically, after a random amount of time the screen goes dark, but the backlight is on. Sometimes turning it on and off will bring it back for a while, just to work for a few seconds. I don't have another dual link DVI to test with sadly but the cable looks fine. I guess I'm going to try to get inside and pray to the lack of any sort of god that it's just a loose connector inside. The panel I got was high quality; I don't want to deal with the warranty or ship it back just to have to go though this again and be out $50+ and possibly end up with a lovely one 
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May 19, 2012 22:13
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poo poo man that's rough, hope things work out for ya.
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May 19, 2012 22:20
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You're a braver man than I for even ordering one of those. Hope you don't have to ship it back!
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May 19, 2012 22:25
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Hopefully you can get a replacement board for cheap and keep the flawless panel. I'm so glad my gamble paid off big time (no dead pixels, matte)
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May 19, 2012 23:55
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ijyt posted:You're a braver woman than I for even ordering one of those. Hope you don't have to ship it back! FTFY Animal posted:Hopefully you can get a replacement board for cheap and keep the flawless panel. I'm so glad my gamble paid off big time (no dead pixels, matte) Yeah that's what I wonder, if something blew up on the panel if I can get a replacement board instead of shipping the whole thing back. Someone suggested in the system building thread that I try it with another computer as the problem could be my GTX 670. I went ahead and did just that and it's been running for a half hour now with no issues. Of course I will have to run it for a few hours to know for sure. I will be very happy if it's just my SECOND EVGA in a row that crapped out on me and not the monitor! 
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May 20, 2012 00:02
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Yeah, i was just gonna suggest another computer. Hope it works out for you, my Shimian's been solid... so far. 
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May 20, 2012 00:39
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No issues with my Catleap here. Power button feels mushy and not a solid "click" feeling for on/off, is probably my most major issue.
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May 20, 2012 01:21
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Got my Shimian QH270-Lite last week, just in time for Diablo, thanks to this thread. It's a great monitor for the price. Picture is awesome and I can live with the stand. Did some quick checks for dead pixels, but it looks perfect. I have a issue with backlight bleeding and it looks pretty bad in black scenes. In normal colors and use its not visible. Managed to hide it some by turning down the brightness. Is there any other ways to hide/fix it? Also, what kind of picture calibration do you guys do(if any)?
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May 20, 2012 09:11
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chippy posted:I feel faintly ridiculous asking this question, but can someone recommend me a DisplayPort cable that definitely fits in a U2412M (that I can order in the UK)? I got one but there's a really chunky plastic housing round the connector that butts up against the plastic surround on the ports on the back of the monitor, and stop it going in far enough to work. coffeetable posted:Assuming you're never gonna see it, grab some sandpaper and go nuts. To be honest, even if it's where I can't see it, I don't really fancy sanding/filing/dremeling my lovely few-week-old monitor.  Can anyone else assist?
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May 21, 2012 14:50
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chippy posted:To be honest, even if it's where I can't see it, I don't really fancy sanding/filing/dremeling my lovely few-week-old monitor. The cable, not the monitor! I don't think anyone would suggest you hack bits of your monitor away..
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May 21, 2012 14:58
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Eh, I guess I could give it a go. It does need to be considerably less smaller in order to fit though and I don't know how thick the plastic housing is until I start to hit wire, or circuit, or whatever's in there.
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May 21, 2012 15:02
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Yeah, I guess it's a risk that you'll completely screw the cable, but at least you'd only be out a cable. I definitely wouldn't use it if you hit the bare wires though. Still, very frustrating.
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May 21, 2012 15:05
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Yeah, I'll give it a bash. It is frustrating though, and although the cable I'm trying is abnormally large I think, it looks like it would be a problem with quite a lot of cables, due to the positioning of the port on the monitor. I'd be interested to know if anyone else with a U2412M has had any problems like this?
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May 21, 2012 15:53
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In the last few days I've noticed my monitor, a HP w1907v has started to smear black sections horizontally. It looks like pencil which has been smudged by a finger slightly. Checked to see if any connections are loose, but that doesn't seem to help. Anyone have an idea of what's going on?
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May 21, 2012 22:08
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I'm looking at one of the Korean ebay panels. Found the Shimian w/o tempered glass at $290 + $42 for the Squaretrade warranty. Is this about as good a deal I will find for one of those monitors? This one here for the record - http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220961455233#ht_8169wt_926
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May 22, 2012 06:16
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Priam posted:It has banding issues after calibration - http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1691556 This is from several pages back, but I was reading the review again, and noticed that you picked the graph for the factory calibration, not the calibrated result, which is this:  The same review you grabbed the review from also goes on to say: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/content/dell_u2410.htm posted:Once calibrated however (and once you've found you need to leave the screen in 'standard' mode to do this!), the U2410 offered the best dE average results we have seen in our reviews. At 0.2 average, it matched the record holder, the NEC 2490WUXi, a screen aimed at colour enthusiasts primarily and which featured an effective hardware LUT calibration method as well." I am not sure why you seem to have an agenda against the U2410, to the point of cherry picking stuff from the review to support your bias.
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May 22, 2012 08:24
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Going to buy one of the Korean monitors to use with our laptops. I need to get a mini-DP to dual link DVI converter. The Apple converter has "Thunderbolt" branding all over it, will it work for non Thunderbolt monitors and/or computers? Or is there another adapter that people would recommend that is of good quality? I don't want to cheap out on the adapter because it will make troubleshooting any issues with the monitor a major pain in the rear end.
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May 22, 2012 13:33
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Kreez posted:Going to buy one of the Korean monitors to use with our laptops. I need to get a mini-DP to dual link DVI converter. The Apple converter has "Thunderbolt" branding all over it, will it work for non Thunderbolt monitors and/or computers? I don't know about the other kinds, but on eBay.co.uk the Catleap description says "Internal GPU, APU and Laptop does NOT compatible".
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May 22, 2012 13:58
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Yeah, I asked about that earlier in the thread, it seems they're likely just trying to save themselves a lot of trouble when people try and hook up single link DVI ports and then demand money back or whatever. With a proper adapter everything should work fine.
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May 22, 2012 14:00
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ScooterMcTiny posted:I'm looking at one of the Korean ebay panels. Found the Shimian w/o tempered glass at $290 + $42 for the Squaretrade warranty. Is this about as good a deal I will find for one of those monitors? As far as I can tell, yes. This is the exact one I got. Update on mine by the way, a friend of mine that has a bunch of gadgets and fixit things brought over some tools to help open up the monitor and record temperatures on it, and we reseated the internal connections. We left it running for almost 5 hours without problem while it was opened up after re-seating it, and after closing it it's been fine so far except once when I turned it on and got random rainbow lines across the screen that was fixed just by turning the monitor off then on again (apparently it does this when it has no signal?) We did notice that the monitor seemed to get hot at some points, sometimes in the 50s centigrade. Hopefully this is mainly just because it is such a large monitor. Regardless, these monitors are a very nice panel attached to the cheapest possible circuitry that will run it. It's worth it imo to get a $1000 monitor for $300, even with the paranoia that it's going to get a hardcore character of mine killed in D3 eventually, but I would not recommend one of these monitors unless you're OK with tinkering with them.
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May 22, 2012 16:07
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Boten Anna posted:As far as I can tell, yes. This is the exact one I got. I also got the same rainbow problem on my Catleap sometimes when I turn it on or bring it back from sleep. I think its more of an nvidia driver thing than the monitor itself. Seems harmless. Congrats on fixing it, they are lovely screens.
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May 22, 2012 16:18
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Boten Anna posted:We did notice that the monitor seemed to get hot at some points, sometimes in the 50s centigrade. Hopefully this is mainly just because it is such a large monitor. Are you using it with a 220-240v adapter? If so, you could be supplying less voltage than necessary for the monitor through the adapter (if you're in the US, anyway).
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May 22, 2012 16:30
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edit
Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 05:50 on May 24, 2012 |
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May 22, 2012 19:43
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Tedronai66 posted:Are you using it with a 220-240v adapter? If so, you could be supplying less voltage than necessary for the monitor through the adapter (if you're in the US, anyway). Not entirely impossible; I'm using the cord that came with the monitor and a simple power cable akin to the kind you normally connect directly to a monitor. Is there a way to get 220v in the US without rewiring circuitry, or some ridiculous (and expensive) gizmo that would have to draw from two different circuits in the house? Regardless I think the transformer is intended to work with 110, though I am not sure.
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May 22, 2012 20:01
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Boten Anna posted:Not entirely impossible; I'm using the cord that came with the monitor and a simple power cable akin to the kind you normally connect directly to a monitor. I haven't had any problems with 120V service, using a standard C13 computer cable plugged into the transformer.
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May 22, 2012 21:43
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What object should I put under my monitors to level their height? I have a 21" and two 17" monitors that I want side by side, all 3 stands are different heights. I currently lack books of the proper thickness and I want something a little more attractive. I think my best option might be to go to a crafts store and buy a few sheets of like 1/16" thick wood and stack them until I get the right height. Any other suggestions? I am far too cheap to buy a proper mount system, and my 21" monitor (LG E2250T) lacks a VESA mount.
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May 22, 2012 22:57
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Sorry wrong thread.
EvilCoolAidMan fucked around with this message at 00:58 on May 23, 2012 |
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May 23, 2012 00:56
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Boten Anna posted:Is there a way to get 220v in the US without rewiring circuitry, or some ridiculous (and expensive) gizmo that would have to draw from two different circuits in the house? Enough other people are using it with 110v and not having issues that I would doubt that it would be the solution to your problem, anyhow.
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May 23, 2012 06:39
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DrDork posted:The answer is "if you have to ask, no." There are ways to do it, but knowing whether they'd be safe or not requires you to know some stuff about electrical wiring, how your particular house is set up with circuits and wire gauges, etc. You'd be better off paying an electrician to do it. Which, of course, entirely wipes out the price advantage of the monitor in the first place. It's not as complicated as you make it sound, at least for lower-power equipment. Fifty bucks is enough to get a beefy autotransformer wired to step 110V up to 220V, and it's just a box that sits between your equipment with ordinary plugs on both ends. It's only a big "hire an electrician" issue if you want both 220V and lots of amps. None of that should matter in the slightest, though, because the Korean monitors all seem to take 24V DC from a universal-input switchmode power supply. The only difference between running one of those power supplies at 110V and 220V should be a couple of points worth of efficiency. If there's any difference in the output, the power supply is broken.
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May 23, 2012 07:08
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Space Gopher posted:It's not as complicated as you make it sound, at least for lower-power equipment. Fifty bucks is enough to get a beefy autotransformer wired to step 110V up to 220V, and it's just a box that sits between your equipment with ordinary plugs on both ends. It's only a big "hire an electrician" issue if you want both 220V and lots of amps.
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May 23, 2012 07:32
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Boten Anna posted:Not entirely impossible; I'm using the cord that came with the monitor and a simple power cable akin to the kind you normally connect directly to a monitor. It would say the volt rating on the brick. You can also buy a replacement brick that takes 110-230 and spits out what you need for 20-30 bucks. The ocn threads may be of more use if their stupid mods haven't removed the eBay links/posts.
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May 23, 2012 14:36
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DrDork posted:If you're not gonna wire up a 220 line with some amps, there's no point! But yeah, she's got issues here that aren't power-related, by the sound of it. FTFY  Tedronai66 posted:It would say the volt rating on the brick. You can also buy a replacement brick that takes 110-230 and spits out what you need for 20-30 bucks. The ocn threads may be of more use if their stupid mods haven't removed the eBay links/posts. And yeah I really don't think it's my problem, especially since the monitor is working fine now. I'm pretty sure it was just something inside wasn't seated properly.
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May 23, 2012 14:49
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Anyone have any knowledge on the 23" LED thats on sale at Sellout.Woot today? I'm guessing it's not super high end, but for $120 it's worth asking about...
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May 23, 2012 14:53
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AOC is a lovely brand and the monitors are refurbs on top of that. You're going to have a lot more than $50 worth of hassle opting for it versus something like this Asus TN with similar features http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236117
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May 23, 2012 21:12
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I think I've talked myself into getting a Korean monitor. I started off considering $150 LED's, then $200 IPS LED's, but the Koreans seems like too good of a deal to pass up, even if they are overkill. It's probably because I regret not buying a 1920x1200 LCD when they were still popular and reasonably priced.  For those who have a Korean monitor, do you have any regrets about the purchase? I'm especially interested in how you guys are handling a dual monitor setup. From a "coding window on main + internet/PDF windows on secondary" perspective, 2560x1440 doesn't help me much compared to 1920x1080, not to mention it's super easy to snap left/right windows in both monitors in Win7. However, it seems that getting a Korean will be fantastic for HD video and gaming. Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 06:07 on May 24, 2012 |
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May 24, 2012 05:54
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Josh Lyman posted:However, it seems that getting a Korean will be fantastic for HD video and gaming. Surely 1920 x 1080 is best for HD Video, as then there's no scaling?
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May 24, 2012 10:26
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