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Yup, that sounds like the TPS. It's a quick, easy fix that you can do yourself in about 5 minutes. Pull old TPS, drop in new TPS.
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May 21, 2012 02:12
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Sounds like TPS, a bad vacuum leak, and/or a manifold gasket leak. TPS is easiest, I'd try it first.
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May 21, 2012 02:15
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FYI newer Wrangler owners: http://www.autoblog.com/2012/05/21/jeep-recalls-nearly-68-000-wrangler-models-over-skid-plate-fi/. Recall for skid plate problem that can cause a fire.
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May 21, 2012 15:48
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 Beat me to it. Yet another reason to drive stick 
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May 21, 2012 19:14
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Ugh....I wanna check with you guys and see if y'all think it's the same problem that I think it is (I can't really afford to keep fixing parts that aren't necessarily broken). My 96 XJ will start up ok but after about 30 minutes or so of driving and the temp gauge halfway, the engine won't crank. This has only become an issue as we've been moving into the hotter part of the year. Today it's REALLY hot and it actually stalled as I was pulling into my apartment's parking lot. It's not starting up right now and I know it won't for at least another hour and a half until it cools down. I'm thinking it's a bad crankshaft position sensor, what do you guys think? Reading other forums apparently this is a pretty common failure on the 4.0? I actually just replaced the coil thinking that was the problem but I guess not.
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May 21, 2012 21:22
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Sounds spot on to me. Unplug it and check the connector before buying a new one (there are different pin shapes on different year ranges, and the 95/96/97 years were really bad for connector changes at undocumented/varying times.) If you feel like it, carry a bottle of water or two and use them to cool the sensor down, if you can cool it down with a liter or two of water poured down between the back of the intake manifold and the firewall, then restart it, you have found your culprit. Look out for the steam, it'll land on the exhaust manifold and downpipe too. To change the sensor you'll want an 11mm socket, a 10mm socket or nutdriver, a wobble/ujoint, about 2-3 feet of extension bars, and a regular ratchet. It's a 10 minute job once you know what you're doing.
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May 21, 2012 21:34
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kastein posted:
CPS tips from Slow is Fast: Extension, u joint, extension, socket. Aim from the back with the ratchet in your right hand. Reach your left hand up around the front drive shaft and up around the bell-housing. You can use your left hand to put the socket on the bolts and then grab them before the fall into the access hole which means you need to take your motor or trans out to get the bolt out. Also, the new CPS going in, if you notch the new CPS, you can hand thread the bolts with your left hand, then slip the new CPS onto the bolts. I notch the top right one at about 3 o'clock and bottom bolt at around 5 o'clock. Right side slides in, left side drops down onto bottom bolt. You now never have to take the bolts out all the way ever again. Keep a notched spare in your glove box.
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May 22, 2012 02:24
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On my 97 and 99 XJs I found it easier to take out the 4-8mm bolts that hold the driveshaft to the front u-joint and then service the CPS.
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May 22, 2012 02:50
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PBCrunch posted:On my 97 and 99 XJs I found it easier to take out the 4-8mm bolts that hold the driveshaft to the front u-joint and then service the CPS. Unnecessary, you can reach around the front driveshaft and get your hand up there. It seems impossible, but once you figure out the contortionist act you can swap the things easy.
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May 22, 2012 02:59
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mod sassinator posted:FYI newer Wrangler owners: http://www.autoblog.com/2012/05/21/jeep-recalls-nearly-68-000-wrangler-models-over-skid-plate-fi/. Recall for skid plate problem that can cause a fire. This is so hosed up. It's not leaves in the skid plates that's the problem, it's the auto trans overheating. The same reason export Wranglers had to be equipped with a properly sized and located ATF cooler, whereas US models slid under the radar. The recall is only for 2010 models, as 2011 and 2012 already have the same bar Chrysler will replace the skid plate with. 2011s have been catching fire, too. So have other models (Liberty, at least) that share the old auto (the 2012 has a different auto trans with a real cooler).
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May 22, 2012 03:11
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Good sign for the TPS being my problem - the old one has definitely never been swapped, so the guy I bought it from wasn't chasing down a problem he couldn't figure out. Also - I stripped the torx head screws holding it in today, looks like I'm buying a Dremel tomorrow.
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May 22, 2012 03:12
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Slow is Fast posted:CPS tips from Slow is Fast: that's exactly the method I use. I was just too lazy to type it up  I learned it on the spot, on the side of rt85 in Hudson MA when my XJ died. Had a spare in the glovebox so I tried it out, it ended up not fixing it so I had AAA tow it 1/4 mile to the nearest autozone parking lot, walked the remaining half a mile to the office, and fixed it after work.
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May 22, 2012 04:10
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Alright cool I'll probably walk down to the auto parts store today. Yeah when I found out where the CPS was I was like drat that's gonna be a pain in the rear end to replace.
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May 22, 2012 14:55
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Whats the biggest tire I can put on a stock 2001 TJ? I don't have fender flares if that means anything
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May 22, 2012 17:27
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Shubs posted:Whats the biggest tire I can put on a stock 2001 TJ? I don't have fender flares if that means anything 31x10.5x15" will fit on the stock alloy rims if you have them. May run into rubbing at full steering lock, YMMV. Anything larger, even without flares, and you're probably looking at changing rims, and then you might be able to get 32s in there. ex. 
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May 22, 2012 17:55
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Godholio posted:This is so hosed up. It's not leaves in the skid plates that's the problem, it's the auto trans overheating. The same reason export Wranglers had to be equipped with a properly sized and located ATF cooler, whereas US models slid under the radar.
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May 22, 2012 17:59
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InitialDave posted:I don't know, dried out foliage ignited by the cat sounds plausible. I've heard of that before, with people causing fires in long grass in the summer. True, but it's not the cause of THIS problem. There are jeeps burning that don't have the plate, and the trans overheating is being investigated already.
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May 22, 2012 21:43
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Hey in-the-know goons, are there plans for them to bring our eurotrash diesels to the US anytime soon?
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May 23, 2012 13:50
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I believe they are going to be bringing over the diesel for the Grand Cherokee, but still no word for the Wrangler (the one that needs it).
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May 23, 2012 14:58
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That's a shame, I used to have the 300C with the V6 diesel, and after coming over I thought it must've been a mistake that there weren't any diesels anywhere. Because who doesn't love diesel? Who, I ask you, who?
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May 23, 2012 19:12
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People who remember old ones and haven't driven new ones. And there are a lot of them.
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May 23, 2012 19:21
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So remember the crane I started building? my horrible welds  everything looks better with paint!  what to test it on... hmmm.....  well it lifts a Jeep 4.0L no problem! I guess I never need an engine hoist again.  If I'm careful and drive very slowly I can drive around the yard with it hanging there with no problems. It does swing if I accelerate or stop too quickly, so I have to be extremely careful. This should greatly simplify repairs to the other jeeps. If I blow the motor in the MJ, I have to get the M54A2 running and weld a couple more tabs onto the crane framework so it also fits its bumper.
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May 24, 2012 03:04
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I took my 2001 XJ in because I heard a clicking noise coming from the front driver's side wheel. They said it was the sway bar and I had it fixed. Just drove it home and it's still clicking. Could it be something else?
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May 24, 2012 04:26
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Rhythmic clicking? Any chance you could record it? I am betting on a bad U-joint - if it's not that, probably either a bad unit bearing or something stuck in your tire.
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May 24, 2012 04:35
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TheManWithNoName posted:I took my 2001 XJ in because I heard a clicking noise coming from the front driver's side wheel. They said it was the sway bar and I had it fixed. Just drove it home and it's still clicking. Could it be something else? A bad u-joint on the axle would click I think. When you are turning, does the steering wheel "tug"?
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May 24, 2012 04:37
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kastein posted:Rhythmic clicking? Any chance you could record it? Yeah it's fairly constant. It seems to speed up when I slow down though. I'll try recording it tomorrow. ornery owl posted:A bad u-joint on the axle would click I think. When you are turning, does the steering wheel "tug"? It doesn't really feel any different steering, but every once in a while when turning I hear a "pop" noise coming from that axle.
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May 24, 2012 04:39
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kastein posted:So remember the crane I started building? That is super cool. I bet it'll be useful while working on you house.
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May 24, 2012 11:45
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Got me a Jeep recently. Not exactly mine, but it's an extra from a family member for a while, will likely ending up buying it, I dunno. But I love it. Surprisingly powerful and quick for a Jeep too, it has no problems getting out of it's own way. It's a 99 Cherokee, 2wd, 5spd. I actually like that it's 2wd, since it's a daily driver and I'd feel bad if I tore something up that isn't technically mine anyway. Either it gets great mpg for a 4.0 or the odometer is terribly off. I had put 6 gallons in a very empty tank, set the odometer and figured I'd get about 120 miles at 20 a gallon. It's at 125 right now and still has a bit above an eighth of a tank. That could just be because no matter what kind of road I'm on, back roads or highways it has enough torque to putter along in 5th even going 45. Anything I should know? Very reliable? Any particular parts that tend to go out? It has about 124k on it, but it's in excellent shape. I know it had to have a clutch put in it about 4 or 5 years ago, but that was it.
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May 25, 2012 06:18
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all I can really say is check for rust on the metal brake lines in the front wheel wells and along the frame to the rear axle if you live in the rust belt. Also, don't believe that gas gauge till you get a feel for how accurate it is, unless you like walking. Two things are guaranteed to lie in this world... politicians and gas gauges.
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May 25, 2012 07:04
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Oh AMC/Chrysler... How you do love to add rust promoting features to our brake lines in the hopes that we'll die in horrible collisions. Kastein: Is this basically what I need? http://baseline4x4.com/p-1072-18676...j-wrangler.aspx Another $150 down the drain. I just love this - at least I can rest assured that I'm building a better, more reliable vehicle piece by piece right?... right??? Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 11:50 on May 25, 2012 |
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May 25, 2012 11:43
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I need to check to make sure you have the transfer case I think you do, and hopefully that wont be needed unless you end up with a new rear axle, but yes. It remains to be seen if it will be needed.
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May 25, 2012 14:30
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I have an 06 Wrangler Unlimited. My wife recently purchased this for me as an early birthday gift. I'm not huge on the halo look, but I'll install it for a little bit and try it. My question is where should I attach the halo bulbs to? I thought the parking lights would work, but that blows the fuse whenever I try it. I don't really want to give them their own switch because I have no idea how long I'm going to keep them and I don't want to add a random switch. The bulbs with the red/black wire looms are the ones that plug into the "halo" part of the glass. They're the ones I can't figure out. Anyone have any thoughts?
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May 25, 2012 16:31
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You want to run it with a relay, then you can run it off any signal you want. Regular automotive relay - should have pins 30, 87, 87a, 85, 86: * 30, 87, 87a are the switch portion that controls your load (the lights) - 30 is the "common" pin - 87 is the normally open pin (when the coil is energized, 30 connects to 87) - 87a is the normally closed pin (when the coil is not energized, 30 connects to 87a) * 85 is the positive terminal of the coil. positive/negative only matters on certain relays* but it's easier to simply use it as positive in all cases. * 86 is the negative terminal of the coil. So for your purposes, you would connect one lead of the bulbs to ground. The other, you connect to terminal 87 on your relay. Terminal 30 goes through a fuse of the appropriate rating (probably 20 amps or so) to the positive battery terminal. Terminal 85 goes to whatever wire you had the bulbs wired to before - for your parking lights, I guess. Terminal 86 goes to ground. The relay coil draws very little current - on the order of tens or hundreds of milliamps, so it won't blow the parking light fuse as an added load. Then it switches the heavy duty switch contacts and so the bulbs pull current directly from the battery. You should keep the wires from the bulbs and the positive terminal of the battery to the relay as short as possible (within reason) and use at least 12 gauge for them to maximize the amount of light produced. * positive/negative coil terminals only matter on diode-snubbed relays. Many relays are resistor-snubbed, some are diode-snubbed however and they will have problems if you wire 85 and 86 backwards and use one. The snubber's purpose is to absorb the back-EMF spike (in the case of a resistor snubber) or allow it to circulate till it decays (in the case of a diode snubber) resulting from the coil being de-energized suddenly. This avoids contact arcing or driver transistor abuse in whatever circuitry is controlling the relay coil. Also - I would just like to note that rusty windshield frames SUCK, and so does doing a windshield replacement by yourself. If it hadn't been rusty I could have had a shop do it, but no shop around here wanted to touch a rusty windshield frame due to the liability / warranty issues. So now I'm bleeding from two locations, pretty sure I have a shard of glass embedded in my right thumb, and only wasted two hours getting that drat thing out. Soon as the rustoleum dries I can put down urethane adhesive primer and install the "new" windshield.
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May 25, 2012 17:52
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Thanks for the info. That definitely sounds like it'd do the trick.
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May 25, 2012 19:13
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Windshield is in.  Only cost $85 ($30 windshield at the junkyard, $30 special primer, $25 urethane windshield adhesive) and some blood  I could have gotten a brand new one installed for 127, but no shop would touch it till I did some rust repair on the windshield frame. So I tore it off myself, hit everything rusty/loose with an angle grinder, painted it, one-stage primer'd the whole thing plus the windshield edge, went nuts with urethane, then dropped the "new" windshield in.It only has to get me an inspection sticker and not crack. Everything past that is bonus.
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May 25, 2012 20:16
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Wired it exactly like you said. The fuse from the main power is still blowing. It's a 20amp fuse. I can try 25 and 30, but 30 is the most the fuse holder is rated for. I can't imagine these 4 little lights needing more than 20. Maybe I have a short somewhere.
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May 25, 2012 22:20
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How many watts are the bulbs themselves rated for, each? If for example each one is a 50 watt bulb, each one will draw 3.6 amps or so, which means you're pulling ~14.5 amps total. A set of 100 watt bulbs would draw around twice that.
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May 25, 2012 22:59
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I'm not sure of their wattage.. they just came with the kit and they don't have any markings. Anyway, it was a short. I opened up the bulb holders and sure enough, the positive was right up against the negative. As soon as I bent it back in place and made sure it couldn't budge, they turned on without burning the 20amp fuse. It's a lot more subtle than I thought it'd be. I could keep this on for a while probably. Here's a shot with my cellphone camera.  I like 'em.
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May 25, 2012 23:43
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dangerz posted:I'm not sure of their wattage.. they just came with the kit and they don't have any markings. Anyway, it was a short. I opened up the bulb holders and sure enough, the positive was right up against the negative. As soon as I bent it back in place and made sure it couldn't budge, they turned on without burning the 20amp fuse. where in Texas are you?
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May 26, 2012 02:57
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Fort Worth So I'm going on my first offroad trip tomorrow. No idea what to expect but I'm sure it's going to be awesome. Here's where we're going: http://www.cityofbridgeport.net/index.aspx?nid=322 Should be fun. dangerz fucked around with this message at 05:02 on May 26, 2012 |
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May 26, 2012 04:25
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