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Korwen posted:Not letting this thread drop this far off. Any progress? Not yet. It's been a really busy month with work and I haven't had any time to dive into the car. My welder and mask were delivered last week and have been sitting waiting for my schedule to free up, which will be happening at the end of the month. Krakkles posted:
I've noticed that a lot of Bricklins in pictures all have different center caps on their wheels. It wouldn't surprise me if they lost them or had them stolen over the years and replaced with aftermarket ones. The wheels on my car are original to the car, but the center caps are what look like vintage Cragars. There are proper Bricklin wheel center caps with the "B" logo that I will pick up eventually.
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Aug 11, 2012 16:40
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I'm in the airport in Cleveland on my way back from the 20th Annual DSM/Evo Shootout. I just spent 5 days with DSMers and Evo enthusiasts from all over North America, and watched about 25 cars blast 9 second quarter mile times all weekend while being mostly stock appearing and daily drivable. So having said that, I found a '91 Eclipse GS-Turbo that apparently runs for sale in LA for $800. My plan is to hopefully buy that car and pull it right up next to the Bricklin and start tearing it apart. My plans are to do the following: Pull the engine and put it on a stand. Sell the auto tranny. Pull the entire wiring harness, ECU, injectors, fuel system, and everything else I'd need to get the 4G63 running in the Brick. Put the seats into the Bricklin, as long as they are in decent shape. Sell EVERYTHING else, which will probably pay for the entire price of the car. Hopefully find someone to take the shell so I don't kill another DSM, but the current owner is ready to scrap it anyway, so I won't feel so bad. Plus I can use the front end, headlight assemblies, body panels, and other stuff for my Talon that needs a facelift anyway. My plan for the Brick, in the meantime, is to hook up jumper cables to the battery from my Jeep and see if I can't get the doors to open. This will hopefully let me finally gain access to the inside of the car so I can start dismantling. I saw roughly 6 cars at the Shootout that had RWD 4G63 setups, so I got a lot of good pictures of how they did their engine mounts. Unsurprisingly, they just welded or bolted steel mounts to the frame, and bolted those to the stock motor mount locations on the block. This works and is easy, but solid motor mounts would make the body vibrate so bad that it would probably fall apart before I even drove it. At least I have a good idea of how I'm going to fab the mounts now, and there should be enough room in the engine bay to use the stock rubber mounts connected to the engine with fabbed mounts on the frame side. Expect to see pictures of progress coming soon. BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Aug 20, 2012 |
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Aug 20, 2012 20:14
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What does the Brick weigh sans engine?
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Aug 21, 2012 00:37
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Paul Boz_ posted:What does the Brick weigh sans engine? The Bricklin's curb weight is 3,470. The stock engine weighs in at around 600lbs. So sans engine would be around 2,870lbs.
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Aug 21, 2012 05:28
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Here are some of the shots I took of the more interesting RWD 4G63 engine mounts I saw. Mine will probably end up looking like the first one for now.    I like the way the timing belt side mount works under the cam gears in the picture here:  I'd like to find a way to tie that into an engine bay brace as well. The '75-76 cars had a "K" brace installed that tied the sides of the engine bay together. The '74 cars didn't have this, so I need to fabricate one anyway. Might as well work an engine mount into it at the same time. '75+ "K" engine brace:  And compared to my engine bay: 
BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 11:10 on Aug 21, 2012 |
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Aug 21, 2012 11:04
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I got to spend a little time on the Brick today. I unhooked the hydraulic piston and was finally able to lift the driver side door. It is HEAVY. Probably 120lbs or so. No wonder they crack all the time when opening. Sorry for the weird pictures. I took most of them while holding the door up and it was hard to keep my camera steady.  Upon opening, look what I found!  Not that it wasn't expected, but now I know why the doors cracked.    The one nice surprise I got was that the hatch opened easily and with working struts! Of course there's no glass in there right now, so we'll see what happens when I get that put back in place...   Got a decent look under the dash. No rust, but man what a mess. You can see where the glue that holds the fiberglass together was hastily and sloppily thrown together at the factory. Something definitely lived in this car for a while, there are little hairballs and other gross things all over the floor. The carpet will be coming out ASAP.   So this weekend the following is happening: 1. Get a friend or two to help me remove both doors. 2. Remove the seats. 3. Remove the carpet and burn it. 4. Clean the entire interior. 5. Remove the hood. 6. Jackstands. 7. Measure everything under the car so I can figure out what transmission will fit. I want to start ordering parts. My goal for this car is now to have it running and driving and powered by a 4G63 by the 2013 DSM Shootout next August. I just finished building a 2.3L stroker 4G63 for my Talon, but that will probably find its way into the B instead. It has forged pistons and rods, Crower valvetrain, and I have enough random parts lying around the garage to push around 500hp. Oh, and I'll most likely be running e85. I'm already gutting the stock fuel system, so I might as well build it right. The body so far seems to be in good enough shape to leave it as is by then, so I will be focusing on the doors. I need to order and install the air door system, and strip, clean, remove the rust, weld, and then reassemble the doors. Due to the damage to the driver side door skin, I'll most likely need to get a fiberglass replacement and paint it to match. Hopefully the passenger door will fare better. I plan on calling the Bricklin specialist shop in Virginia soon to get price quotes on door parts. If it's cheap enough, I might just ship both doors to his shop and have them repaired there. They've been doing it since 1976 so they certainly know better than I.
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Aug 24, 2012 06:51
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BoostCreep posted:Upon opening, look what I found!  Good luck
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Aug 24, 2012 14:31
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I think I have even less hope of a happy ending than with Moecow's thread.
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Aug 25, 2012 03:00
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You shut your whore mouth. This thing has to be finished because I love it. I'd like to see a blown 3800 in the bricklin so it could race fuzzkills Toyota. I know I've been reading AI too much when I start pitting project threads against one another.
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Aug 25, 2012 03:32
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revmoo posted:I think I have even less hope of a happy ending than with Moecow's thread. Define happy ending.
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Aug 25, 2012 07:33
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BoostCreep posted:Define happy ending. Divorced, disowned by family, no house, no savings, no retirement fund, nothing but one 'completed' car. 
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Aug 25, 2012 15:44
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You can buy sheets of polyurethane pretty cheap from mcmaster carr and maybe amazon. Sandwich that with bolts and it will absorb a lot of the vibration.
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Aug 25, 2012 16:14
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BoostCreep posted:Define happy ending. Nutting up and doing it where so many fail, and from what I've been hearing it sounds like you'll be able to deliver.
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Aug 26, 2012 01:13
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Das Volk posted:Nutting up and doing it where so many fail, and from what I've been hearing it sounds like you'll be able to deliver. Well, I'm working on my nutting up. Got the doors and hood off today, as well as the seats and bits of the carpet and interior before the insane amount of 30 year old dust started to get to me. First thing I'm buying tomorrow is a mask.    The good news is the passenger side door looks great. Just one minor wrinkle in the metal with accompanying rust, but not nearly as bad as the driver door.   I was also really nervous about the roof of the car after seeing the amount of rust on the driver side door. There's really nothing to stop water from leaking down into the roof from the very poorly sealed doors, so I was getting ready to rip the fiberglass from the top of the car. But,   Looking great! These pictures look inside the door hinges on the roof and it's all very clean without any signs of rot. Looks like I got lucky with this one. Yay California car! Another benefit of having a California car: These bolts are what hold the seats to the fiberglass body. I was so nervous that they'd be rusted tight, but they broke loose with hardly a grunt. In fact, they were barely more than hand tight.  Under the carpet was this insulation, which smelled like stagnant piss. Awful.  Out with you!  Much better! Shot of the door pistons still in their poo poo brown 70's vinyl wrap. I'll be replacing these with air pistons pretty soon.  Shot of the dash as it stands now.  All of the stock gauges are VDO black face with white and yellow letters. Hopefully I can find a way to retain the stock speedo, tach, and odometer behind the steering wheel, while the 4 circular gauges to the right of the wheel will become Boost, Wideband A/F, oil pressure, and water temp in matching white/yellow on black VDO gauges. I hope I can find ones that match. My plan for this car is to modify it, fairly heavily, but to leave it 100% reversible to stock condition. However, this is the hole in the fiberglass where the automatic gear shift lever pokes through from the transmission. It's tiny. I'm pretty sure I'll have to widen this hole to make room for the manual stick shift. I'm going to try to think of creative ways around this, but I'm starting to mentally prepare myself for altering the chassis more than I had hoped.  Here's the battery box, behind the passenger seat.  And the hydraulic system behind the driver's seat. This will be coming out soon.  I found where I can fit an intercooler. This pic is under the panel between the hood and nose cone, right between the headlights. There are fake vents molded into the acrylic here which would make a great real scoop for an intercooler. I'm thinking of buying a fiberglass replica of this panel to cut up and mold a scoop into.  The IC pipes can snake right around the radiator here. I can run the hot pipe on the passenger side of the radiator, and the cold pipe to the intake manifold on the driver side. There's plenty of room here with no obstructions, and the bottom of the radiator support will still be the lowest point of the engine bay.  This is the most embarrassing thing I've ever drawn, but I only have MS paint on this computer. You get the idea. Blue is airflow and intercooler, red is the duct I'll be making from fiberglass.  And what old car cleaning wouldn't be complete without pictures of stuff I found under the seats? Driver's side:  Passenger side:  Last owner had the right idea keeping a fire extinguisher on board. There's a sticker on it saying it was last tested in 1976. Still looks and feels brand new. Business card of the first owner:  A brand new 1976 penny still with the factory shine.  I haven't seen one of these in probably a decade, and now I have 3 brand new ones!  And what I was told was lost, with a "chance that it might be in the car somewhere", the brand new, never used 37-year-old front license plate from 1975.  With an accompanying new registration sticker for 1980. I wonder if there's a market for things like this...  And last but not least, this is what's imprinted on the bolts for the door hinges. At least someone has a sense of humor. (or could tell the future)  Tomorrow I'm swinging by my office to pick up my jack and stands to get the car off the ground. I want to take my measurements to start researching. BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 10:12 on Aug 26, 2012 |
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Aug 26, 2012 10:09
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BoostCreep posted:My plan for this car is to modify it, fairly heavily, but to leave it 100% reversible to stock condition. However, this is the hole in the fiberglass where the automatic gear shift lever pokes through from the transmission. It's tiny. I'm pretty sure I'll have to widen this hole to make room for the manual stick shift. I'm going to try to think of creative ways around this, but I'm starting to mentally prepare myself for altering the chassis more than I had hoped. Out of interest, is keeping it reversible to stock that big an issue for you, or is it just a personal creative goal? I say this as someone generally against molestation of ~*precious DeLoreans*~ but I figure with any car, if you're making it objectively better - bigger engine, manual shift, etc, surely the value of the mods outweighs the small alterations? It's not like your car is going to be a basketcase resto for the next guy - unless it was literally the last Bricklin on earth, what would be the sense in undoing what you've done? I figure yours will have a value of it's own once it's finished. edit: you've probably not really had any chance to experience it but are those 3/4 windows as pointless as they look?
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Aug 26, 2012 10:32
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echoplex posted:Out of interest, is keeping it reversible to stock that big an issue for you, or is it just a personal creative goal? I say this as someone generally against molestation of ~*precious DeLoreans*~ but I figure with any car, if you're making it objectively better - bigger engine, manual shift, etc, surely the value of the mods outweighs the small alterations? It stemmed from the fact that there's only around 1,100 or so of these cars left and I don't want to damage the value or condition of the car. But it's also a creative goal too. Sort of a challenge to myself not to take any shortcuts. Plus people in the Bricklin community, as small as it is, are fans of keeping things original. I'm already going to be an outcast by putting a Japanese 4 cylinder in this, so I'd like to be able to say "don't worry, it can all go back to stock". (mostly to myself, so I don't feel bad stripping a rare car down and molesting the hell out of it.) I haven't really had much experience with the windows yet, but yes they seem to be pretty much a design element and that's it.
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Aug 26, 2012 19:07
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You should leave the doors completely off for that ultimate-targa-top feel.
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Aug 26, 2012 20:04
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MiniFoo posted:You should leave the doors completely off for that ultimate-targa-top feel. I had another AI friend HybriDSM helping me with the doors, and he suggested leaving the doors off and just welding a cage with bars where the doors should be. It's actually pretty drat tempting.
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Aug 26, 2012 20:38
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I love that plate! The numbers and the letters are my birthdate and initials. If you find yourself wanting to divest of it I would love to have it to hang in my shop. You can only re-use old plates in California up until 1963 if I remember correctly. After that the YOM date was no longer stamped into the plate itself.
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Aug 26, 2012 20:40
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BoostCreep posted:And last but not least, this is what's imprinted on the bolts for the door hinges. At least someone has a sense of humor. (or could tell the future)
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Aug 26, 2012 21:04
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Panaflex posted:I love that plate! The numbers and the letters are my birthdate and initials. If you find yourself wanting to divest of it I would love to have it to hang in my shop. I think it's the other way around. License plates travel with the car from when they are first issued until the car is crushed or the plates transfer to another vehicle. I'm planning on keeping these plates, though I don't plan on using the front on the car in order to keep it in like-new condition. I will keep it in the car though and hope any police officer who pulls me over for no front plates will understand. Pretty crazy about your initials and birth date. What are the odds? If that's the case, then the plate was also issued the year of your birth too. InitialDave posted:That's the fastener manufacturer ID, I checked the DOD listing handbook for you, and it means they were made by Sonic Industries in California. They're aerospace suppliers, those are decent fasteners. That's actually great to know, thanks! I just thought it was funny that it looked like a $ with cartoon style lines coming off it for emphasis.
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Aug 26, 2012 22:00
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BoostCreep posted:That's actually great to know, thanks! I just thought it was funny that it looked like a $ with cartoon style lines coming off it for emphasis.
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Aug 26, 2012 22:43
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Oh I was under the impression the car didn't have a matching pair, Yes definitely keep those plates if DMV will let you use them. That's awesome and good luck on your project. I picked up an '81 DeLorean (August build) back in 2002 that was in about the same condition. It's now a beautiful family heirloom that I couldn't bear to part with. Bricklin and DeLorean owners typically all have equal respect for one another. Keep us updated!
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Aug 26, 2012 23:14
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echoplex posted:Out of interest, is keeping it reversible to stock that big an issue for you, or is it just a personal creative goal? I say this as someone generally against molestation of ~*precious DeLoreans*~ but I figure with any car, if you're making it objectively better - bigger engine, manual shift, etc, surely the value of the mods outweighs the small alterations? Modifying a car pretty much never increases its value. The restoration & things like the hydraulic -> pneumatic doors added value, if done well but the engine swap won't. If Boost creep ever sells the car with the I4 in, decent gas mileage & daily drivable are selling points but what a collector wants to see are the original engine/transmission, nosecone, plates, paperwork, no gaping butchered holes in the body. Leaving it in a condition you can easily revert to stock is a worthy aim.
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Aug 27, 2012 11:30
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BoostCreep posted:This is the most embarrassing thing I've ever drawn, but I only have MS paint on this computer. You get the idea. Blue is airflow and intercooler, red is the duct I'll be making from fiberglass. An MSPaint drawing of turbocharging components superimposed on a photo of a Bricklin. This needs to be saved forever. 
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Sep 5, 2012 00:15
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Maker Of Shoes posted:An MSPaint drawing of turbocharging components superimposed on a photo of a Bricklin. I really want to see it pinstriped on the hood when it's done.
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Sep 5, 2012 01:51
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I've been doing some research and found out that the Brick uses either the entire brake/clutch pedal assembly from the '72-74 Gremlin/Hornet/Javelin, or just the pedals themselves. Either way, I need to find a brake/clutch pedal assy from the above mentioned cars and am having no luck. Who'd of thought it'd be that hard to find rarely optioned obscure parts from a little known and often crushed 40 year old car to change from an auto to manual in the Bricklin? I tried car-part.com, google, etc, and no luck yet. This might be one of those things I just have to wait around for. Unless anyone has any ideas? Last ditch effort is scouring AMC boards looking for people parting out cars...ugh. I need the unit from the left here (sorry, largest picture I could find comparing the two from a Javelin)  And the current unit mounted in my car:  The stock unit in the AMCs from the time are mechanical clutches, but I'll probably have to convert the pedal assembly to a hydraulic unit to make things simpler. I emailed the company that rebuilds the doors and got no response. I'm just going to buy a heat gun and take the skins off the doors myself. I need to find a place where I can sand blast the door frames to see how much metal is left and if the driver door can be saved. I'm thinking it can, but I won't know until I see how it looks with the rust and paint removed. I've been doing a lot of research into these doors and it looks like doors are rarely interchangeable between cars once they leave the factory. Hell, even at the factory the doors varied so wildly in shape due to poor quality of parts and molds that only certain doors would even fit certain cars brand new!  I'm also starting to rethink the engine choice a little. Not because I don't think I could make the 4G63 work, and ideally it'd save me a LOT of money going with a 4G63, but something about having that V8 growl under hood is enticing. Probably because I've never owned a V8 before and pretty much any newer V8 would still weigh less than the boat anchor sitting in the engine bay right now. I am still thinking 4G though, until my car ADD makes me think something else. Mostly because I could buy an entire long block, rebuild it with all forged internals and extra goodies to handle over a thousand horsepower, and still be nearly half the price of a stock LS1 drop-in engine. And let's not even talk about the price of V8 crate motors.... Anyway, I'm going to buy an engine hoist tomorrow and start tearing things apart. Most people end up taking the front of the car apart to get to the engine, so we'll see what happens. I'm hoping to have some progress pictures tomorrow.
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Sep 15, 2012 03:22
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Best-of-both-worlds insanity option: fuse 2 4gs together to make a custom 8G63 twin-turbo V8.
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Sep 15, 2012 03:37
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BoostCreep posted:I'm also starting to rethink the engine choice a little. Not because I don't think I could make the 4G63 work, and ideally it'd save me a LOT of money going with a 4G63, but something about having that V8 growl under hood is enticing. Probably because I've never owned a V8 before and pretty much any newer V8 would still weigh less than the boat anchor sitting in the engine bay right now. If you were in Australia, I'd recommend the 1UZ-FE because it's a magnificent motor with the right ratio of pushrods:pistons. Don't know if the compression ratio may be a problem in Americaland, where I'm told standard petrol has an awful RON and premium is twice the price.
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Sep 15, 2012 05:42
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We got the 1UZ-FE here, and premium (91/92/93 octane, depending on where you are) isn't that much more expensive (usually ~0.20 / gallon more than low grade). BoostCreep, I'm sorry I've been AWOL. You doing anything on it this weekend?
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Sep 15, 2012 06:30
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I actually did think about the 1UZ for a little while, but I want to eventually turbo whatever I put in there and the CR is a little high for that. It's still on my list of engines to consider though. Krakkles I'm going to be working on it tomorrow. I'd like to start disconnecting the engine and maybe even pulling it tomorrow if I have time. Need to make a stop by Harbor Freight tomorrow to pick up a hoist and stand.
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Sep 15, 2012 07:16
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BoostCreep posted:
Hey you should get that roll of film developed! Oh wait, Senator's car from the 70s? You should do all the drugs in that film canister!
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Sep 15, 2012 07:40
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BoostCreep posted:Krakkles I'm going to be working on it tomorrow. I'd like to start disconnecting the engine and maybe even pulling it tomorrow if I have time. Need to make a stop by Harbor Freight tomorrow to pick up a hoist and stand. 
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Sep 15, 2012 08:54
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BoostCreep posted:I actually did think about the 1UZ for a little while, but I want to eventually turbo whatever I put in there and the CR is a little high for that. It's still on my list of engines to consider though. One of the guys I know from an Aus 4wd forum wedged a 1UZ into a 4 runner, put sequential LPG injection on it and whacked a centrifical supercharger on it- stock internals but with a Wolf3D computer on it. drat thing would smoke golf GTI's off the line on 35" tyres!
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Sep 15, 2012 11:05
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BoostCreep posted:I need the unit from the left here (sorry, largest picture I could find comparing the two from a Javelin) Your bracket doesn't look like the one in the picture at all. Nor do the automatic brake pedals. edit: your brake bracket actually looks like 70's GM. obso fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Sep 15, 2012 |
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Sep 15, 2012 14:18
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I assume a basic Wilwood pedal setup is out of the question since it'd probably involve some cutting and welding. It is an option though if you don't mind a little custom work (but I know you don't want any cuts so it's probably out).
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Sep 15, 2012 15:08
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Fucknag posted:Best-of-both-worlds insanity option: fuse 2 4gs together to make a custom 8G63 twin-turbo V8. This. Please, do this.
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Sep 15, 2012 19:05
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Looks like its out of your area but these guys might be able to help with the clutch pedal: http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/3267777279.html Derek at Hap's Auto Wrecking 253-564-5555
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Sep 15, 2012 22:18
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obso posted:Your bracket doesn't look like the one in the picture at all. Nor do the automatic brake pedals. Yeah there is a bend in my automatic brake pedal that isn't there on the manual pedals. I've been reassured by several Bricklin people that the '74 Javelin pedal set is a direct bolt in. I'll make sure to triple check before buying one though. Sockington posted:I assume a basic Wilwood pedal setup is out of the question since it'd probably involve some cutting and welding. I thought about the Wilwood setup. Some Bricklin people have actually used it successfully, but since there is supposedly a direct bolt-in pedal set I'm going to try to avoid cutting if I can. Krakkles posted:Lemme know when, I should be able to come by and help I had every good intention of working today, but it's the hottest day of the year at 106 degrees and my unventilated garage is absolutely miserable right now. Today isn't happening. I'll let you know when I can get in there next. MiniFoo posted:This. Please, do this. That would be amazing if I were a fabrication god, but I'm going to try to get 4 cylinders working for now and see what happens. Unless I get tricky and aim for 6, but wouldn't that be silly..  Hmmm... BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Sep 15, 2012 |
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Sep 15, 2012 23:28
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1st gen 1UZ does boost fine!
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Sep 16, 2012 05:35
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