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kastein posted:
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Oct 4, 2012 00:26
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Yeah that's weird as gently caress. I got my Rubicon rails installed today.  I need to find some bigger washers for the little studs that go through the pinch seam though, the ones I have actually fit perfectly through the hole instead of grabbing the seam.
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Oct 4, 2012 00:30
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I only figured it out through serendipity. Starter relay was clicking but no juice at the starter solenoid post, which I knew worked because I'd just turned it over by jumping it directly to the battery. Fellow goon ACEofsnett took a look at it and said "well maybe that 60A fuse position actually needs something in it..." so I said what the hell, might as well try it. But I miscounted the fuse slots and ended up installing the fuse in the heated rear window defogger slot instead of the slot for the 60A fuse, which was completely disconnected. Only realized it when I went to figure out why and discovered that the slot I put the fuse in had a 12ga black/red wire leading from it rather than a 6ga solid red wire.
kastein fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Oct 4, 2012 |
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Oct 4, 2012 00:43
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Installed the snorkel on my XJ yesterday: Got everything right the first time somehow too. Astryl fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Oct 18, 2013 |
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Oct 4, 2012 18:15
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Do Not Fear Jazz posted:Installed the snorkel on my XJ yesterday: I want that jeep
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Oct 5, 2012 06:13
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Now just add a rudder and you have a submarinejeep. Maybe a periscope aswel.
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Oct 5, 2012 15:01
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Gorillian Dollars posted:Now just add a rudder and you have a submarinejeep. I will get right on this. MAJOR STRYkER posted:I want that jeep Literally the only rust on the whole thing is the front doors and leafs, even though it's spent its entire existence in the rust belt. Magic.
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Oct 5, 2012 19:24
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I bought my JK new in March, there's already a couple of spots of body rust around where sidesteps mount. I'll be wire-wheeling/painting over it one of these days.
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Oct 5, 2012 21:43
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The only rust on my 2002 wrangler is on the exhaust hanger. I guess that's one great thing about living in California. $1,700 catalytic converters is one of the bad things 
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Oct 5, 2012 21:53
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Godholio posted:I bought my JK new in March, there's already a couple of spots of body rust around where sidesteps mount. I'll be wire-wheeling/painting over it one of these days. 7 months old and already rusting? Isn't there a warranty for stuff like that?
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Oct 5, 2012 21:57
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Astonishing Wang posted:The only rust on my 2002 wrangler is on the exhaust hanger. I guess that's one great thing about living in California. $1,700 catalytic converters is one of the bad things Right now I'm mentally trying to work out how many jeeps I could buy with $1700.
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Oct 5, 2012 21:59
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Sandbagger's whole harness (except for two subharnesses I haven't finished yet) is spliced, heatshrunk, and vinyl wrapped. Still runs, so I must have done something right. Looks like the trans mount may be as easy as using a 95 wrangler trans mount for an ax15 and a few bolts. Still left: fill trans (fluid already on hand), fill transfer case, fill power steering, fill radiator with actual coolant (used water for test firing), tcase shifter linkage, rearend swap, driveshafts, splice and wrap two subharnesses, trans tunnel blockoff plate, some dash wiring, reinstall dash, install tach, install new fuel sender assembly, install fuel filter, and a bracket for the clutch pedal assembly. Left to buy: ps fluid, transfer case fluid (a few quarts of atf), coolant, trans mount. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Oct 5, 2012 |
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Oct 5, 2012 23:45
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kastein posted:Sandbagger's whole harness (except for two subharnesses I haven't finished yet) is spliced, heatshrunk, and vinyl wrapped. Still runs, so I must have done something right. Retaining factory drive shafts?
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Oct 6, 2012 00:10
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Rear has an SYE (thus needs a double cardan yoke instead of slip yoke) and the 8.25/231/ax15 instead of 35/207/a999, and the front has changed due to the 231/ax15 (231 has a double cardan front yoke factory, while the 207 had a single cardan yoke. Fortunately the rear is so short and small diameter that balancing shouldn't be necessary, and both can be fabricated from $30 junkyard XJ front shafts. I am sure someone will say balancing the shaft is needed but my current rear driveshaft in the MJ is one I made myself on my back porch basic fab tools, and it's 4 feet long and like 5" diameter and runs smooth up to 75 or so.
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Oct 6, 2012 00:21
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kastein posted:Rear has an SYE (thus needs a double cardan yoke instead of slip yoke) and the 8.25/231/ax15 instead of 35/207/a999, and the front has changed due to the 231/ax15 (231 has a double cardan front yoke factory, while the 207 had a single cardan yoke. I've examined this issue using purely scientific means (I rode in Kastein's MJ) and have decided that porch shafts are more than good enough for our purposes.
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Oct 6, 2012 02:21
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BoostCreep posted:7 months old and already rusting? Isn't there a warranty for stuff like that? Good point. 
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Oct 6, 2012 03:33
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Saw this:  at the store a day or two ago.
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Oct 7, 2012 02:12
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Pine Cone Jones posted:Saw this: M151s are awesome huh? It's a shame they had to torch most of em. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M151_MUTT
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Oct 7, 2012 15:56
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Oddly, that wikipedia site brought me to this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Willys_FAMAE_Corvo  Is it just me or would these be awesome in a sci-fi movie?
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Oct 7, 2012 16:22
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I should've posted this a while ago - What do you guys think? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PiM5UpBG5BQ
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Oct 8, 2012 21:16
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Astonishing Wang posted:I should've posted this a while ago - What do you guys think? it could be. If it's a good size crack, you should be able to feel it with your hands when it's cool.
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Oct 8, 2012 21:58
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 SHUT THAT OFFthat is definitely NOT an exhaust manifold crack, that's either a horrible piston slap (dropped skirt?), a bad wrist pin, or a bad conrod bearing. Nothing good can come of running that motor more without repairing whatever's wrong with it. Unless it's something snagged on the belt whipping into things, but I don't think the belt would last that long nor would it make that much noise. How's the oil pressure at idle?
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Oct 8, 2012 22:45
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kastein posted:
Well poo poo... The belt isn't hitting anything that I can tell. Oil pressure while cruising on the freeway is right in the middle at 40, at idle is at a quarter (20psi?) I've been so set on it being the manifold. I guess I should quit driving it every day. How would you go about fixing something like this? Drop the oil pan?
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Oct 8, 2012 22:52
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If you've been driving it every day, it's either not what I think it is, or it's beyond repair, most likely. Can you find exactly where the noise is coming from? Lower end of the motor means you've got a big issue, top end means you might be able to get away with a cheaper fix. If it's on the passenger side, it might be cam related, driver side, probably either a bottom end noise or exhaust (but it really doesn't sound like exhaust to me), back of the motor means it could be flexplate/clutch/flywheel/torque converter related but it doesn't sound like that either.
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Oct 8, 2012 23:05
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BIIW4-pODZA This is what an enormous intake leak sounds like in case you were wondering.
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Oct 8, 2012 23:14
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I'll poke and prod with my mechanics stethoscope. If it's piston related I should be able to tell what's going on by dropping the oil pan right? Maybe I need to go a step further and just rebuild the loving thing. That's one way to learn, right?
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Oct 9, 2012 00:45
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That would work. I would suggest (unless someone can think of a reason not to) going a slightly different route though - buy a 95/96 to 99 or so engine in known good condition, and a good remanufactured or brand new 0331 head from alabama cylinder heads / odessa etc, and base your new engine build off those. Hell, just bolt the head on with a new fel-pro head gasket and bolts and you shouldn't be out more than 600 total - at least, around here, I can get a 4.0 longblock for 100 at the yard if I pull it myself, and CCH/odessa has newly cast 0331 heads for $450 each. No telling what you'll find when you drop the pan... if you have a spare vehicle, you can probably get away with a lot more work on the jeep without a spare motor to prepare before beginning work, but in no way is this going to be a one day project. Dumb question - when you put the new lifters in, did you do a cam as well? Did you do a break-in on the new lifters? I'm not sure if you can replace lifters without doing a cam, nor if you can do lifters without doing a cam break-in. Did you replace the pushrods also?
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Oct 9, 2012 00:57
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It was pretty cold this morning and my previously sketchy blinkers just gave up the ghost altogether. 2001 XJ. Now they are just solid light, no blinking unless I manually move the lever up and down. Googling tells me this could be a few things, what is most likely? The flasher? Fuses?
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Oct 9, 2012 01:48
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TheManWithNoName posted:It was pretty cold this morning and my previously sketchy blinkers just gave up the ghost altogether. 2001 XJ. Now they are just solid light, no blinking unless I manually move the lever up and down. That's weird--I'd try changing the flasher, it's cheap and easy to swap out.
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Oct 9, 2012 04:01
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Anyone in Florida going to Jeeptoberfest this year? I'm meeting up with a couple guys from central fla and headed up there on the saturday.
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Oct 10, 2012 13:15
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I put 31/10.5/r15's on my 99 TJ, and now there's a tiny amount of rub on full-lock, do I go hog wild and buy new wheels with a more appropriate backspacing or are wheel spacers an alright substitute? (As far as wheel spacers go, I've been looking at these: http://www.spidertrax.com/products/1997-06-Wrangler-TJ)
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Oct 10, 2012 20:39
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slipfish posted:I put 31/10.5/r15's on my 99 TJ, and now there's a tiny amount of rub on full-lock, do I go hog wild and buy new wheels with a more appropriate backspacing or are wheel spacers an alright substitute? (As far as wheel spacers go, I've been looking at these: http://www.spidertrax.com/products/1997-06-Wrangler-TJ) I've got 1.5" spacers on my 12 JK with 33's and have had 0 issues with them and have done some decent wheeling with them. Spidertrax are some of the most recommended spacers but I run the Rough Country spacers as they were cheaper but made of the same material.
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Oct 10, 2012 20:47
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I know people who have run for years on spacers without issue. Make sure you torque em down properly... and expect it to wear your wheel bearings a bit faster. If you go with the real small kind that just slip over the studs before you put the wheel on, make sure you have enough thread engagement still.
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Oct 10, 2012 20:55
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kastein posted:I know people who have run for years on spacers without issue. Make sure you torque em down properly... and expect it to wear your wheel bearings a bit faster. I've heard the ones that just slip over the studs are the worst ones. You want the ones that bolt onto the studs and then have their own studs you bolt the wheels onto.
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Oct 10, 2012 20:57
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Same. I'd run em if I had no other choice, or they were made out of steel, but most are either cast aluminum (horrible) or some kind of pot metal and that's not good.
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Oct 10, 2012 21:02
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mattfl posted:I've heard the ones that just slip over the studs are the worst ones. You want the ones that bolt onto the studs and then have their own studs you bolt the wheels onto. kastein posted:Same. I'd run em if I had no other choice, or they were made out of steel, but most are either cast aluminum (horrible) or some kind of pot metal and that's not good. If I go with the spacers (looking pretty likely), they're probably going to be the spidertrax ones that I linked. I assume you just keep an eye on the inner studs (?) every few thousand miles to make sure they aren't going to gently caress up your day?
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Oct 10, 2012 21:27
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If they're decently designed, there's nothing intrinsically wrong with spacers, they're just a rather inelegant solution. Some vehicles actually come with what are, effectively, bolt-on spacers - the brake drum bolts to the hub, and then the wheel bolts to the brake drum. If you're concerned, stronger studs and nuts, appropriately increased torquing, and threadlock should do a decent job of offsetting it. InitialDave fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Oct 10, 2012 |
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Oct 10, 2012 21:38
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slipfish posted:If I go with the spacers (looking pretty likely), they're probably going to be the spidertrax ones that I linked. Yup. If you feel any odd vibrations or hear noises, check em, and check at every tire rotation. The usual.
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Oct 10, 2012 22:05
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slipfish posted:I put 31/10.5/r15's on my 99 TJ, and now there's a tiny amount of rub on full-lock, do I go hog wild and buy new wheels with a more appropriate backspacing or are wheel spacers an alright substitute? (As far as wheel spacers go, I've been looking at these: http://www.spidertrax.com/products/1997-06-Wrangler-TJ) As a note, I have a 2 of 1.25" spider trax and 2 of 1.5" rough country ones that I'm not using that I'd sell to you. My old jeep I bought the 1.5"s for and did fine with it, though I only put maybe 100 miles on them before the tranny went toast. PO on this one put the spidertrax on.
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Oct 10, 2012 23:30
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj6-build-here-i-go-again-620861/index27.html Fixed the trans issues in the 6! Having never cracked open a tranny before, this was an awesome victory.
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Oct 13, 2012 22:14
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