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Geektox posted:Hmm, the labels on the patch panel more less matches the labels on the middle cable bunble, and both go right into the wall, so I'm not really sure where it's going? Is there a good way to tell? FWIW, our friend asked me advice about replacing the router in their 3 story home recently. I eventually installed a RT-N66U for them. RSSI readings went from -50-70 down to -30-40 on the 3rd and 1st floors with the N66U located on the 2nd. Might be worth a shot if you don't want the hassle of running APs all over.
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Jan 14, 2013 11:45
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I checked the OP and skimmed the last few pages, but wasn't able to find the answer to my question. What's the best sub-$75 powerline ethernet kit out there? I've got my router/modem setup in my office, but would like to have ethernet speeds on my HDTV/Roku/gaming systems.
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Jan 14, 2013 17:12
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Geektox posted:So I've been trying to improve Wi-Fi quality in our 3 1/2 story house. Currently, we have a single Linksys WRT160N running tomato v. 1.28 on it, and reception is absolutely horrid. In everywhere except the office where the router+modem is located, everyone is getting about 2 bars or less (RSSI of -50-70?). It looks like a patch panel was provided then cable was installed throughout the house. I'm assuming the house will have cable, ethernet and phone jacks. The patch panel will only be useful if the ethernet jacks are as available in the house (assuming they were installed when the cables were run. If you put a modem in there you may be able to connect it to the large cable splitter on the left side with the free connector. The you would need to connect to a switch and then use short patch leads to connect to the patch panel.
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Jan 14, 2013 23:17
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Geektox posted:Hmm, the labels on the patch panel more less matches the labels on the middle cable bunble, and both go right into the wall, so I'm not really sure where it's going? Is there a good way to tell? Without having toner equipment, not really. Plug the router into one of the patch ports, then walk around the house with a laptop plugging it into every port until you get a connection, write it down, and go onto the next patch port. quote:Assuming that it is a networking thing and it works as intended, where would I put the modem? Just grab one of the free coax cables in the box and plug that in? Yeah, you want to plug the modem into that big coax splitter on the left.
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Jan 15, 2013 00:11
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I've got a old Linksys WRT54G that I want to replace. I'm not sure how to go about doing it though and I really know next to nothing about networking except how to make the cables. Currently how the network is used is that the wireless is mainly used to watch netflix on laptops/phones all over the house and a Wii close by to the router, but on the other side of a rather thick wall. I've used all the ethernet ports on the router running lines to desktop computers around the house. This includes two lines that travel across the house into separate rooms. The ethernet cables are used for gaming and netflix. Why I want to replace it: 1: The WiFi doesn't reach the other side of the house reliably and in some places, at all. There are a lot of walls to go through. 2: An active microwave located in the middle of the house will destroy the signal that does get picked up on the other side of the house. 3: I'm out of free slots to run ethernet cables to, but don't need many more. I've been bored lately and been itching to see if I could set up my printer on the network, but the ports are all in use. 4: Won't give me my server listings for games before pooping out around 200-300. But I have a feeling that is a set-up problem I can't figure out. I can't move the router to the middle of the house cause there is no way to run an ethernet cable to it from the modem is a discrete and not ugly way. Also, the microwave is there, I don't know what would happen when it would be in use. Or if even moving it would be enough since there is still a lot of walls/floor between it and the problem areas of the house. I was thinking about buying two new routers and setting one up on each end of the house and connect them with one of the lines I've already have to solve problems 1, 2 and 3. I'm hoping that the server listing problem is a hardware issue. I don't get the problem when directly connected to the modem. I'm also not looking to break the bank on this and the OP suggestions confuse me as well. Those linksys models are getting some pretty bad reviews. I assume that those don't have the same problems that the OP tells you not to get linksys routers for, but I'm still wary from the reviews. I was looking around and these seem interesting but I have no idea if this manufacturer is trustworthy or what. TP-LINK TL-WDR3500 N600 TP-LINK TL-WR941ND TP-LINK TL-WR1043ND If problem 4 can be solved by changing something in the old router, I'd probably just keep that one around and just buy one new router. If the old hardware isn't a liability of some kind nowadays.
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Jan 15, 2013 03:52
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I've been having a problem with my Netgear WNR3500Lv2. A while ago I was posting about how it couldn't stay connected to the internet for more than 20 or 30 minutes at a time. That problem seemingly resolved itself. It may not have been the router, I'm not sure (although my other router had no such problem). But it stopped doing that a while ago. I'm having a new issue now, though. It will periodically go through periods where it's wireless transmission rate plummets for no good reason. This effect is felt by both my wireless computer and a 360 using an external wireless adapter. These periods happen randomly, and I usually get at least one or two a day, and last for 20 to 60 minutes. It's always random. During this time, I struggle to maintain 500 or so kbps, which is abysmal. The wired computer's network connection remains completely unaffected throughout this, so it's solely a wireless issue. I really can't figure it out. My listed connection rate is 54Mbps (I'm on a G adapter currently) when idling, and when I try to do something, it drops to 18 or 12 mbps and uses only 3% or 4% of the connection. How do I solve such an issue? My first thought is possibly interference, but we live in the suburbs without much wireless traffic. And my previous router didn't do this. I've tried changing wireless channel and it hasn't really helped. I've tried some things like tinkering with my transmission power but it doesn't help either and I'm afraid I'll do more harm than good messing with that stuff. Can anyone provide some insight on what can cause this issue and how to fix it?
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Jan 15, 2013 07:46
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Devian666 posted:It looks like a patch panel was provided then cable was installed throughout the house. I'm assuming the house will have cable, ethernet and phone jacks. The patch panel will only be useful if the ethernet jacks are as available in the house (assuming they were installed when the cables were run. Inspector_71 posted:Without having toner equipment, not really. Plug the router into one of the patch ports, then walk around the house with a laptop plugging it into every port until you get a connection, write it down, and go onto the next patch port. Thanks dudes, got it all figured out. Bought the ASUS router recommended in the OP, and even with the router in the basement I have perfect reception on the first couple of floors, so I moved my old router to the top floor as an AP. I was hoping I could have my desktop on a wired connection, but turns out my study is pretty much the only room without a RJ45 jack. I mean, our kitchen has 2, for christ's sake.  I bought a 100 ft. long Cat5e cable, a crimper, a switch and a bag of jacks to make my own patch leads. I did some googling and I'm fairly confident I won't gently caress it up. But just to make sure, I can just use straight-through cables for all the ports right (the specs page lists "Auto MDI/MDIX adjustment for all ports")? Any recommendations for wireless dongles? Should I go with a PCI card or a USB thing? I got a Dlink DWA552 and the stupid thing locked up my computer 3 times while installing drivers. Sorry about all the questions, first time doing something of this calibre.
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Jan 15, 2013 12:18
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:I've been having a problem with my Netgear WNR3500Lv2. A while ago I was posting about how it couldn't stay connected to the internet for more than 20 or 30 minutes at a time. That problem seemingly resolved itself. It may not have been the router, I'm not sure (although my other router had no such problem). But it stopped doing that a while ago. I'm having a new issue now, though. It will periodically go through periods where it's wireless transmission rate plummets for no good reason. This effect is felt by both my wireless computer and a 360 using an external wireless adapter. These periods happen randomly, and I usually get at least one or two a day, and last for 20 to 60 minutes. It's always random. During this time, I struggle to maintain 500 or so kbps, which is abysmal. The wired computer's network connection remains completely unaffected throughout this, so it's solely a wireless issue. I really can't figure it out. My listed connection rate is 54Mbps (I'm on a G adapter currently) when idling, and when I try to do something, it drops to 18 or 12 mbps and uses only 3% or 4% of the connection. I've got the same router. I had similar issues so I installed dd-wrt on it. That didn't help. But I found a setting on the wireless advanced properties, WMM I think it's called, and disabled that. Instant throughput increase. I also locked my network to N speeds and that helped tremendously too.
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Jan 15, 2013 15:38
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:I've been having a problem with my Netgear WNR3500Lv2. A while ago I was posting about how it couldn't stay connected to the internet for more than 20 or 30 minutes at a time. That problem seemingly resolved itself. It may not have been the router, I'm not sure (although my other router had no such problem). But it stopped doing that a while ago. I'm having a new issue now, though. It will periodically go through periods where it's wireless transmission rate plummets for no good reason. This effect is felt by both my wireless computer and a 360 using an external wireless adapter. These periods happen randomly, and I usually get at least one or two a day, and last for 20 to 60 minutes. It's always random. During this time, I struggle to maintain 500 or so kbps, which is abysmal. The wired computer's network connection remains completely unaffected throughout this, so it's solely a wireless issue. I really can't figure it out. My listed connection rate is 54Mbps (I'm on a G adapter currently) when idling, and when I try to do something, it drops to 18 or 12 mbps and uses only 3% or 4% of the connection. There's an usual fix for the connection issues by setting MTU 1494 or similar values less than 1500. No explanation from Netgear why it works but it apparently does. If you have an old leaky microwave or a wireless phone in the area this could be causing issues. Others have suggested that they have solved phone issues by using a higher channel number. Seeing moving channels doesn't help it may not necessarily be a wireless phone. Try using iSSIDer if you haven't already and have a look at the signals when you lose wireless performance.
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Jan 15, 2013 22:25
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Geektox posted:Thanks dudes, got it all figured out. Bought the ASUS router recommended in the OP, and even with the router in the basement I have perfect reception on the first couple of floors, so I moved my old router to the top floor as an AP. I was hoping I could have my desktop on a wired connection, but turns out my study is pretty much the only room without a RJ45 jack. I mean, our kitchen has 2, for christ's sake. Two jacks is standard in offices where one is used for phone and the other for data. This is where things look a bit weird in your patch panel cupboard as everything is run without using the patch panel.
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Jan 15, 2013 22:27
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Geektox posted:Thanks dudes, got it all figured out. Bought the ASUS router recommended in the OP, and even with the router in the basement I have perfect reception on the first couple of floors, so I moved my old router to the top floor as an AP. I was hoping I could have my desktop on a wired connection, but turns out my study is pretty much the only room without a RJ45 jack. I mean, our kitchen has 2, for christ's sake. Anything with a gigabit port will be Auto MDI/MDIX, and even some devices with a 100Mbps port. 99.9% of the time, you will be using straight-through wiring. These days the cases where you would use a cross-over cable are pretty rare. Keep in mind when making your own cables there are 2 wiring standards that dictate the arrangement of wires in the RJ45 plug. (http://www.dslreports.com/faq/4659) 568A and 568B. A "straight-through" cable would have both ends wired the same (i.e. 568A on both ends, or 568B on both ends). A "cross-over" cable would have each end wired differently. (i.e. 568A on one end, 568B on the other). Due to industry tradition, most pre-made patch cables you can buy or those that are included with equipment will almost always be wired 568B. So unless you are making a cross-over cable, you should stick with the 568B pattern all the way through. stevewm fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Jan 15, 2013 |
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Jan 15, 2013 23:52
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Goon Matchmaker posted:I've got the same router. I had similar issues so I installed dd-wrt on it. That didn't help. But I found a setting on the wireless advanced properties, WMM I think it's called, and disabled that. Instant throughput increase. I also locked my network to N speeds and that helped tremendously too. I looked online about what this actually is, and apparently people who do this get locked to 54mbps, but you're saying you're getting 300mbps with WMM off?
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Jan 16, 2013 01:35
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I made a post on the previous page with regards to getting better wireless hooked up in my CEO's house which has a lot of concrete walls. Upon further investigation, it looks like the house is somewhat wired for cat5 to the locations I was planning on placing access points/range extenders. The ubiquity line looks interesting, however having to control it through software is kind of a downside. It's my first option at this point, however - are there any other wireless router/range extender/access point combos that have seamless wireless?
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Jan 16, 2013 01:50
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The UniFi APs only need the controller software for the initial setup, there doesn't necessarily need to be a server on-site at all times for the basic functionality.
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Jan 16, 2013 06:26
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Are the E1200 or E2500 still the goto budget routers (the OP is over a year old)? I can get them refurbished from Linksys for $25/$35, so figured I'd check first. Are there better/cheaper <$40 routers, preferably with 5ghz?
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Jan 16, 2013 09:50
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My refurbished e2500 was a turd that constantly overheated. That's anecdotal as hell, but depending on who is doing the refurbishing, I wouldn't trust it.
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Jan 16, 2013 09:54
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If it's anyone except Linksys themselves, refurbs = returned poo poo repackaged in generic white box. And even then, I doubt Linksys would even pay anyone to add a heatsink / replace the CPU / replace the board. They'd hook it up to some test machine, if it passes they repackage, if not it gets sold in some huge lot to someone else who will stamp the word refurbished on them. My anecdotal experience with refurbs, even ones sold by original vendors, even the WRT54Gs sold by T-mobile have proven this to me, at least.
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Jan 16, 2013 16:48
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Inspector_71 posted:The UniFi APs only need the controller software for the initial setup, there doesn't necessarily need to be a server on-site at all times for the basic functionality. Edit: Would using an AirRouter work? If the wireless from an AirRouter doesn't integrate into the unifi network, it's not a huge deal. I plan on placing the router in the basement downstairs away from the major usage areas. If the wireless would integrate, even better. goobernoodles fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Jan 16, 2013 |
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Jan 16, 2013 17:59
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BeefSupreme posted:drat. Doesn't matter that they're on the same main? And if the best solution is to run ethernet, am I going cat6 as I've seen some people mention on here? It may work okay, sorry I thought you said that the power lines were split up. If they all tie back to the same main panel then it should work out. I'd give it a try before hassling with ethernet. As for whether to run CAT5 or CAT6 I would personally go with CAT5e cable and ends because I work with that stuff for a living. I'm not sold on the magical properties of CAT6 yet because I don't deal with high speed infrastructure that has to reject a ton of noise - where I'm at are mostly new houses or short runs that will handle gigabit speeds with ease over regular CAT5e wiring. Other folks want to future proof things a bit and will insist on using CAT6. Personally, I'd be cheap because I can get most of the materials through work so CAT5 is good enough for me. Geektox posted:Today, while clearing out a crawlspace, I found this thing, which I can only assume is some sort of networking dealio: Take an afternoon and map out what jack goes where, build a map and keep it in the panel for future reference. Then you can light up your house super easily with some patch cords and a switch. That will tie the ethernet runs together and then you can decide which room you want your head-end modem and router to reside in. Nicely done wiring too - that all looks well tied down and it appears to have decent labeling.
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Jan 16, 2013 20:30
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rawrr posted:Are the E1200 or E2500 still the goto budget routers (the OP is over a year old)? I can get them refurbished from Linksys for $25/$35, so figured I'd check first. Are there better/cheaper <$40 routers, preferably with 5ghz? People say the op is over a year old. quote:Devian666 hosed around with this message at Nov 19, 2012 around 22:45 They also miss important messages that have been added (I know it's a lengthy op and it's not always easy to get what you're after). quote:
The sub $100 routers are generally poo poo and should be avoided if you aren't a poor student or homeless.
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Jan 16, 2013 23:40
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Be aware that all of the sub $100 routers compromise hardware features and should only be selected if you cannot afford something better. A significant portion of the routers listed are discontinued and may only be available secondhand.
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Yeah, for example, the $25 router mentioned in the OP is still a good price, less than $25. However, user reviews indicate this Monoprice model usually dies after about a year. It also isn't compatible with DD-WRT, Tomato, or any other alternative firmware. But for less than an average meal for two at Applebees, you get a dual band wireless router with swappable antennas. It's definitely not good enough for the typical goon who demands control over every single aspect of his connection, or who needs a high-availability mission critical connection, but it's great for someone who wants basic set-it-and-forget-it internet access, and only needs it when they come home from work or over the weekend. Binary Badger fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Jan 17, 2013 |
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Jan 17, 2013 00:19
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The other thing to consider is that you shouldn't expect incredible performance from a cheap router. The tend to have lower throughput, especially on wireless. In this era you get what you pay for.
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Jan 17, 2013 00:43
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What are some good wireless repeaters with ethernet jacks? Mine just broke because I tripped over the ethernet cord, and the wireless USB adapter isn't working out so well.
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Jan 17, 2013 01:38
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My router is transferring files incredibly slowly. It's a Linksys WRT310N running DD-WRT, and there are only three devices on the network -- a laptop, a desktop and my phone. All are operating in N-mode. When I open up a regular windows share and start copying a file from one computer to another, it transfers at a maximum of around 700kB/s, with nothing else happening on the network other than whatever the cable modem is doing. I'm not expecting the theoretical maximum, but at least a couple of megs would be awesome. It definitely wasn't this slow before. I had to reset the router a couple of weeks ago due to a forgotten password, and I may not have set everything up properly. Where should I start looking to fix this?
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Jan 17, 2013 02:52
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Devian666 posted:They also miss important messages that have been added (I know it's a lengthy op and it's not always easy to get what you're after). Just wanted to say thanks for the op! Because of it I am in the process of ditching my CenturyLink wireless modem and got a dedicated wired unit from ebay for less than 2 months of the rental and bought an Asus AC-66U! I know what you said about future technology, but I figured it was only about $30 more and will "future proof" me for a bit longer. I rolled that expense in to how much I'm saving for the next year of my contract with them and will still come out ahead.
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Jan 17, 2013 03:08
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Devian666 posted:People say the op is over a year old. Sorry :< I actually did read most of the OP (and had a few chuckles as a result) - thanks for spending the time to write out the helpful OP! I am shopping for something cheap since I'm just using it in bridge mode - my ISP provided "Actiontec" modem/router combo is in the cable closet, which is basically the worst location for reception. Bought an E2500 to test out per your recommendations, but might downgrade to a refurb E900 from the Linksys store since I seem to be doing fine on 2.4 only, and apparently e900 and e1200 are literally identical.
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Jan 17, 2013 03:49
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Devian666 posted:The other thing to consider is that you shouldn't expect incredible performance from a cheap router. The tend to have lower throughput, especially on wireless. In this era you get what you pay for. What would be most suggested? I am still running a WRT54G, and while it's doing fine, not having a strong signal along with N is disappointing. I'm looking at $100 +/-$25.
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Jan 17, 2013 04:39
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rawrr posted:Sorry :< I never take these things badly. I always look at what people ask about and see if there's a way to improve the op. I'm looking at further altering the structure to keep it relevant. Just be aware that the processor in the e900 and e1200 is slow compared with the next tier up of Linksys routers. savesthedayrocks posted:Just wanted to say thanks for the op! Because of it I am in the process of ditching my CenturyLink wireless modem and got a dedicated wired unit from ebay for less than 2 months of the rental and bought an Asus AC-66U! I know what you said about future technology, but I figured it was only about $30 more and will "future proof" me for a bit longer. I rolled that expense in to how much I'm saving for the next year of my contract with them and will still come out ahead. Just so you know. This is today's news. This is the reason I was coming to post in the thread about. Additional spectrum to be added to 5GHz. http://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2013/01/fcc-adds-spectrum-to-wi-fi-but-you-likely-need-a-new-router-to-use-it/ carb0nex posted:What would be most suggested? I am still running a WRT54G, and while it's doing fine, not having a strong signal along with N is disappointing. I've been looking at that price range and I'm not as happy with the options as I was over the past year. The Netgear 3700 is nice enough but it's getting a bit older. Prices in New Zealand for that router have gone up a lot for some reason. I'm not quite sure what's happening in the market in terms of supply that's doing this. I'm starting to look towards the Netgear 4000 as a recommendation along with the Linksys 3200 but this starts bumping up the price range. Have a look at the 3700 and the 4000 as there's only $23 difference between them on newegg. Devian666 fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Jan 17, 2013 |
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Jan 17, 2013 04:58
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CuddleChunks posted:It may work okay, sorry I thought you said that the power lines were split up. If they all tie back to the same main panel then it should work out. I'd give it a try before hassling with ethernet. So, I did do some testing. Turns out, you were right. Essentially, there's a wall which marks the addition to the house, which has a new subpanel. None of the sockets on that subpanel work, and, of course, that subpanel is where the modem is. BUT there is one socket in this section wired through the kitchen, which backs up to the demarcation wall, which is on the original subpanel. Hooray for getting lucky and half-measures we'll have to replace in a year! But it works for now. Thanks!
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Jan 17, 2013 07:50
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BeefSupreme posted:So, I did do some testing. Turns out, you were right. Essentially, there's a wall which marks the addition to the house, which has a new subpanel. None of the sockets on that subpanel work, and, of course, that subpanel is where the modem is. BUT there is one socket in this section wired through the kitchen, which backs up to the demarcation wall, which is on the original subpanel. Hooray for getting lucky and half-measures we'll have to replace in a year! But it works for now. Thanks! Hahah hooray for bullshit wiring! For once it comes to your rescue. I hope your powerline units run smoothly. I've seen several installs of them and they are a pretty cool technology when you can't run cable.
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Jan 17, 2013 18:35
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Hey wondering if I could get some help. I have an old house... like 250+ years old. I've been using an e2000, but my signal basically dies out at the other end of my house. I understand, the house is a little large, and has a couple of what used to be external walls. I want clear signal throughout the whole house. Should I be looking into getting a more beefy router, or does it make more sense to get a signal extender? And, is the Cisco Linksys RE1000 worth at drat? Cisco sells a refurbished one for $42.
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Jan 18, 2013 03:12
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I need some sort of device capable of connecting to a wifi network (WPA/WPA2 Personal) and broadcasting it's own wifi network. I can build a cheap pc with two network cards if necessary, but I was hoping for something a little simpler.
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Jan 18, 2013 05:25
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Well, I've tried setting my MTU to lower numbers commonly recommended, turning off WMM, locked my wireless mode, and tried changing to a completely open and unused wireless channel in the area, all to no avail. The loss in wireless performance still happens intermittently (it's happening right now). On my router status page, it's actually listing a current wireless transmission rate of 1mbps, and I can't figure out why it's doing this. It happens at any hour of the day. Right now, it's actually five AM, there's nobody else up in the neighborhood. There really isn't any interference of any sort. My signal strength is actually quite strong, and there's zero interference, so I'm leaning towards it being an internal problem with the router. I guess this router just occasionally acts up for no reason I can comprehend. edit: Maybe I'm about to eat my own words and it IS interference. Thing is, the router wasn't reporting any, and windows was reporting a strong signal despite the weak speed, and inSSIDer wasn't reporting anything unusual. But for just a second the router was saying that interference was severe, and I switched channels, and the speed returned to normal. So... I don't really know what to think. When I set the channel to auto, the problem still happens. The router seems to have a problem identifying when there is interference. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 11:50 on Jan 18, 2013 |
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Jan 18, 2013 11:14
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So I've got my cabinet/router/modem/switch setup done, thanks! I got another question though, should I be setting the SSIDs for my APs to all the same one?
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Jan 18, 2013 12:21
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Is there an easy way to tell why a cat5e cable cannot negotiate at 1Gbit/s? I have a multimeter and did a continuity test for each wire and saw resistances of less than 8 ohms on each connector. The built in diagnostics for the Intel PRO/1000 GT reported that a pair is disconnected, but theres continuity and the wiring on both ends matches. Any ideas? EDIT: One pair was backwards, I'm going to assume that'll do it. hobbesmaster fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Jan 18, 2013 |
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Jan 18, 2013 17:00
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hobbesmaster posted:Is there an easy way to tell why a cat5e cable cannot negotiate at 1Gbit/s? I have a multimeter and did a continuity test for each wire and saw resistances of less than 8 ohms on each connector. The built in diagnostics for the Intel PRO/1000 GT reported that a pair is disconnected, but theres continuity and the wiring on both ends matches. Any ideas? There can be interference if it's wired incorrectly even if the conductors match, but if a pair was backwards that was probably it. Both ends should be the same for a straight through cable, and the B wiring is used most often (A is fine, however). A cable with A on one end and B on the other is a crossover cable. 
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Jan 18, 2013 18:05
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Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but I'm trying to set up a PPTP connection through a secondary DD-WRT router on the second floor of my house to a VPN service, and I've followed their documentation for doing so but it is not working. I'm wondering if it is due to the fact that this router is going through another router on my home network before it hits the cable modem, or is that unrelated?
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Jan 19, 2013 02:39
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The Third Man posted:Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but I'm trying to set up a PPTP connection through a secondary DD-WRT router on the second floor of my house to a VPN service, and I've followed their documentation for doing so but it is not working. I'm wondering if it is due to the fact that this router is going through another router on my home network before it hits the cable modem, or is that unrelated? Unrelated, as long as the other router isn't blocking the vpn traffic. If a pptp vpn works in software on your pc, then you are ok having multiple routers. From what I've read when trying to set up a similar thing in DD-WRT, in some build versions PPTP is broken. I couldn't get it working on mine. I flashed a vpn version of tomatousb, and it worked right away.
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Jan 20, 2013 03:56
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Dareon posted:I'm setting up my first network. The OP and some links and articles have told me what I'll need in general terms, but I could use some help with specifics. All right, thank you for the previous answers, but I could use a little more advice. The modem they sent me is a one-port router (Comtrend CT-5072T), and the laptop is a ThinkPad T41 with wireless and wired capabilities. The AirPort Extreme looks like a great solution, but the family is leery of spending so much money. Can I get away with buying a switch instead of a router, and just hook the switch to the router I was given? Related, do they make switches that include wireless access points? Or is it better to get a more advanced router+wireless to hook everything into and replace the freebie the ISP gave me?
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Jan 20, 2013 12:10
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| # ? May 14, 2024 12:33 |
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"Wireless switches" do not exist. You could get a switch for about $25: http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-ProSafe-5-Port-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B00002EQCW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1358694880&sr=8-2&keywords=switch or you could pick up one of the routers listed in the OP. Something like this would probably be OK http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833124412 unless you are really into bittorrent. That's $45 right now and probably the lowest you can go without dropping into really shaky unreliable crap.
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Jan 20, 2013 16:20
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