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So i need to know, is there any good resource on GBA games. I've been looking at my carts and notice that some of them seem a bit peculiar, and i can't tell if it was a board revision, or not.
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 20:45 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 12:25 |
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Wasper posted:So i need to know, is there any good resource on GBA games. I've been looking at my carts and notice that some of them seem a bit peculiar, and i can't tell if it was a board revision, or not. They may be counterfeits... take pics, we're pretty good at spotting fakes.
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 20:47 |
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univbee posted:XRGB3... AC Adapter in question is a weird one, outputting 11V and 2A... There's a Panasonic camera with the right outputs and easily-found AC adapters, hopefully one of those will work. You didn't list polarity in your spec, and since you are thinking of changing the cable that's as easy as swapping to two power wires but you are looking at polarity listings on the unit and the adapter and verifying with a meter before you are plugging in replacement adapters, right? There's a 120v\240v to 12v 2A rated adapter on Retro Game Cave (for the Super CD add-on) that I just bought and measured 12.5v without a load. That should be just fine if you can't find another replacement and swap the cable, correcting polarity of course. Miyamotos RGB NES posted:If you get the replacement one let me know if it works; I'll add it to the OP. Just for reference I am using the Japanese one it came with plugged into a step-down transformer and have yet to have a problem (cue Robolizard! calling me a sperg... flyboi posted:One thing I was curious about with the SFC ac adapter does it need a stepdown converter in the US? You said your Duo R is S-Viddeded? Is it from Doujindance, and RGBed? Speaking of RGB Duos, look who joined my fambly.
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 20:48 |
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Copper Vein posted:Why are you doing this? What are you stepping it down from? Or are you saying it came from parts-unknown with a step-down attached and you promptly removed it? According to the ac adapter it's rated for 100v not 120v on the SFC. My twin famicom and duos never came with ac adapters so I had to buy some Anyways the spare one I had came in the mail so I just threw it on the SFC and threw the old adapter in the box because hey, whatever, gently caress it. Yeah, the Duo-R is from Doujindance and is S-Vid + RGB. I don't have anything that accepts RGB and I'm happy enough with S-Vid to not care. Funny thing though, I was testing it with Bonk's Revenge and noticed that the display gets bright/dark at points in the game (when you get to the top of the waterfall in the first area, first eggshell-head-guy-thing you meet in 1-2, right before you go up the ridge to flip across the small pond with the guy fishing, etc. I though maybe the s-vid mod was poo poo and done poorly so I popped in composite. This persisted and then I got really worried so I plugged in the duo only to find it does it too but I never noticed it on composite
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 20:54 |
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Copper Vein posted:You're saying there's a camera that came with a power adapter rated at 2 amps? Like a camcorder and it's rated to power the whole drat thing while recording? Onto VHS? With motors 'n' poo poo? quote:You didn't list polarity in your spec, and since you are thinking of changing the cable that's as easy as swapping to two power wires but you are looking at polarity listings on the unit and the adapter and verifying with a meter before you are plugging in replacement adapters, right? Oh god yes, I'm going to be staring at this thing in a multimeter for a long time and making drat sure everything's correct before plugging it in "live." quote:There's a 120v\240v to 12v 2A rated adapter on Retro Game Cave (for the Super CD add-on) that I just bought and measured 12.5v without a load. That should be just fine if you can't find another replacement and swap the cable, correcting polarity of course. Good to know. Actually, the very first listing is 11V 2A so that's an option too.
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 21:08 |
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zenintrude posted:They may be counterfeits... take pics, we're pretty good at spotting fakes. I don't have a particularly good camera on hand, so the image is going look pretty blurry. Basically, the "Nintendo" on the board is different, it resembles the licensed by one on the sticker more than anything, and instead of a 2001 copyright date, there's some circle with a line in it that looks like a mario coin. It's next to the nintendo logo.
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 21:14 |
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zenintrude posted:I have a copy of Super Mario All-Stars and a copy of Super Mario World that I don't need any more... not sure if this needs to be the rarer combined cart, though. It doesn't need to be. I seem to be the only person on the planet that doesn't own either. What do you want for them?
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 21:14 |
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univbee posted:Oh god yes, I'm going to be staring at this thing in a multimeter for a long time and making drat sure everything's correct before plugging it in "live." And I bet the 11v and 12v 2A adapters on that site are the exact same bricks. Call it an educated hunch, but I bet if you measure that 11v it will read 12.5v, and that shouldn't be a problem.
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 21:29 |
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flyboi posted:According to the ac adapter it's rated for 100v not 120v on the SFC. My twin famicom and duos never came with ac adapters so I had to buy some Yeah, Japan's electrical system is weird. They run on 100V, but half the country runs at 50Hz and the other half runs at 60Hz, so their power supplies have to support both. As far as why somebody would use a stepdown converter, although 120V is (barely) within tolerance for one of the 100V supplies, it's not really supposed to be run at that voltage for prolonged periods, so it ends up getting very hot and is potentially dangerous. So, there are two ways around this. One is to use a stepdown converter to go from 120V to 100V and then use the Japanese supply with that, and the other is to get a power supply with an appropriate output that can take 120V directly.
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 21:37 |
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^^^ Very interesting. I'll take a closer look at my japanese adapters. Although the vast majority of my import systems came with aftermarket bricks. Maybe the sellers knew what I didn't.
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 21:39 |
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Been running my Super Famicom with a power brick rated for 100v on 120v for a while. Living life on the edge
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 21:41 |
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Kreeblah posted:Yeah, Japan's electrical system is weird. They run on 100V, but half the country runs at 50Hz and the other half runs at 60Hz, so their power supplies have to support both. Of course... tons of American homes and business actually get 110 volt service or 115 volt instead of full 120 volt. And a few actually get 125 volt. It's surprisingly variable.
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 21:45 |
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Wasper posted:I don't have a particularly good camera on hand, so the image is going look pretty blurry. You could also tell from the back and the label. Can you post pictures of that?
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 22:04 |
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So the s-video switch I got in the mail today is a pile of poo poo and ghosts severely on my tv and was the cause of all the weird contrast crap going on in Bonk's Revenge. Anyone have a link to a decent one that preferably takes 4 inputs and isn't a complete pile of poo poo? This is the one I got for reference http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032ANC8M
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 22:22 |
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flyboi posted:So the s-video switch I got in the mail today is a pile of poo poo and ghosts severely on my tv and was the cause of all the weird contrast crap going on in Bonk's Revenge.
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 22:33 |
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Cicero posted:I was waiting until I finished phase 2 of the game cave to post about it, but this one that I posted about and ordered earlier has been working fine for me. It's much more expensive than the one you ordered, but not into ludicrous territory, and it can handle two different outputs from two different inputs simultaneously without any issues. I'll keep the link handy. I was googling around and stumbled across this older model http://www.simaproducts.com/support/files/svs4d_spec_sheet.pdf which according to reviews so long as it didn't die within 3 months has no ghosting and is amazing. Went for $200 new and found it on ebay for $40 so I'll try that first and if it blows up then I'll go for yours.
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 22:34 |
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flyboi posted:link to a decent one that preferably takes 4 inputs and isn't a complete pile of poo poo?
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 22:40 |
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flyboi posted:I'll keep the link handy. I was googling around and stumbled across this older model
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 22:40 |
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In preparation for my FDS that will eventually get here I was looking around for power supplies that'll work for it... any suggestions? Am I going to be stuck with a step down? Because gently caress using 6 C Cell batteries to run that thing after belts are replaced.
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 22:58 |
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Caitlin posted:In preparation for my FDS that will eventually get here I was looking around for power supplies that'll work for it... any suggestions? Am I going to be stuck with a step down? Looks like any 9V with 400mA will work. Center pin is negative.
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 23:02 |
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flyboi posted:Looks like any 9V with 400mA will work. Center pin is negative. I'm having real issues trying to find something to that spec. The closest I found was : http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Stancor/STA-4890B/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs2%252bVrH5rwl1kVw1mafsOZsrz7ZFsgB4Yc%3d Which runs at 120v and from what I was reading I'm pretty much stuck with using a step down converter for that? Also it's already $20.
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 23:11 |
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Caitlin posted:I'm having real issues trying to find something to that spec. The closest I found was : That should work as long as the tip is the right size (dunno offhand). You can get something with more than 400mA, though, since the FDS will draw as much current as it needs. The important things are the voltage not being too high and the polarity being correct. And as far as being 120V goes, you won't need a stepdown converter. The reason people are using them is because they're using Japanese 100V supplies. If your power supply expects 120, you're fine.
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 23:19 |
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Kreeblah posted:That should work as long as the tip is the right size (dunno offhand). You can get something with more than 400mA, though, since the FDS will draw as much current as it needs. The important things are the voltage not being too high and the polarity being correct. Man people are bad at phrasing things (not you, random poo poo I was reading online that confused me). So in theory I could get a 9v adapter with a negative center pin that has 3400ma and it would be fine (not that I would buy one but I did FIND one of those), right? I'm sorry I'm bad at this it makes me feel all stupid. I never dealt much with importing actual hardware until very recently.
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 23:28 |
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Any euro-goons having experience buying RGB cables from consolegoods_uk on ebay: http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/consolegoods_uk?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 ?? I'm on the lookout for cables for our Mega Drive II, Master System and SNES and while I know that retro_console_accessories is the go to seller, the shipping to Denmark more than doubles the price
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 23:30 |
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Power adapters, especially old ones, almost never output exactly what they say they do. In my experience they often output 3-4v higher than they list. The electronic devices are made to deal with this and bleed off the extra voltage with heat sinks. So I have no problem using a 10v adapter on a 9v system or a 10v adapter on a 12v system, but I will have checked the output with my meter to see what it is really outputting and labeled it as such. And current rating can be an issue if the adapter is rated too low for the device. I tried to run a Duo off of 500mA and it would reset every time it went to spin up the drive. Polarity can always be reversed by reversing the wires at some point in the adapter, in case you have a brick that is within the voltage range you need and of sufficient ampacity for your device, but wrong polarity. Everybody go buy a drat multimeter.
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 23:36 |
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What controller is that? I need to get a replacement for the lovely 2-button ones I've got.
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# ? Feb 19, 2013 23:52 |
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That's what was packed in with the RX. I don't like it much, I'd say get a six button Avenue pad but I don't like that either. Also, the standard PCE pad is great. Don't be hatin'. Copper Vein fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Feb 20, 2013 |
# ? Feb 20, 2013 00:01 |
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Caitlin posted:Man people are bad at phrasing things (not you, random poo poo I was reading online that confused me). So in theory I could get a 9v adapter with a negative center pin that has 3400ma and it would be fine (not that I would buy one but I did FIND one of those), right? Everything you need to know about power supplies: There are two polarities to power supplies. This is often called "center pin" i.e center pin positive or negative. The polarity can be found on any power supply if it's hardwired: You'll note the left is positive center pin, right is negative center pin. To reverse polarity on a hard-wired power supply you can swap the leads on the motherboard. If you don't feel safe working around the large caps in a PSU like me, there are alternatives. Now that we have polarity down let's talk about voltage. You'll see on a psu something like INPUT: 120VAC OUTPUT: 9VDC. This means that the power supply will take 120V AC from the wall in your house and output 9V DC via the plug on the end. If you look on the bottom of a system it will usually state the requirements such as 9V DC 17W or sometimes in amperage, it varies. Anyways, you always want to match or be close to the original voltage. Variance of +/-2V is alright for most systems as they have built in regulators that actually down-step whatever voltage comes in from the ac adapter and outputs 5V +/- 0.2V. These are called regulators and if you look inside most systems you will see them screwed to massive metal heatsinks which are used to "burn off" the excess voltage that the regulator cannot use. As I said most systems there are some that are weird about this. For example the Twin Famicom takes 7.5V DC and has no 7805 regulator like a regular famicom/nes. I still haven't opened mine to look as hkr were troubleshooting his twin famicom last night and found his cartridge slot was outputting 7.5V DC through the +5V lines. Another example is the NES which actually uses an AC adapter which outputs AC to the system and is converted internally to DC. This is why you always hear people scream "NEVER PLUG A NES ADAPTER IN ANYTHING BUT A NES! YOU WILL FRY SYSTEMS!" DC is a straight line at a straight voltage and blowing well over that will make components go boom. I believe some Atari systems use that as well, but 99% of systems you don't need to worry about this gotcha. If it's on or around 9V chances are there's a regulator inside the system. Ok voltage out of the way. Now let's talk current or mA. In electrical world we call this "draw" as components need more current they will draw this from the power supply. The usage by a circuit in terms of amperage is directly related to the load of the circuit itself so this is not a constant variable. By having enough current - say 1000mA for a Duo it will operate normally. Hook up an adapter that is 600mA and it might boot up, it might play a Hu card game but once you try to load a cd it will more than likely crash as it cannot draw enough current to run the circuit. Amperage is only supplied to the circuit from the adapter as it is needed so it is better to have more than less. So if you have something that requires 1000mA you can theoretically use a 2500mA power supply and be fine. This is how those "all-in-one" Sega adapters are made to power 32x/scd/genesis from 1 PSU. All the systems are 9V the PSU just needs to have enough amperage to meet the draw of the systems as they are used. Now last but not least if you're like me and don't like working around the massive caps in PSUs, there are very easy ways to supply power to your games! I am currently using these on my Twin Famicom, Super Famicom, Sega CD and Duo-R as they are regulated which is safer for components and it has pretty much every tip you would ever need aside from the one necessary for a Duo. Find the polarity of your system, plug the tip in to match, set the slider to the voltage and go. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068U44I flyboi fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Feb 20, 2013 |
# ? Feb 20, 2013 00:11 |
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Retro Gaming Megathread: Actually, you will need an Electronics Degree after all
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# ? Feb 20, 2013 00:14 |
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flyboi posted:
THANK YOU FOR THIS. Jesus christ I can never remember this and it makes it a nightmare to shop for power supplies, I'm scared to buy anything but exactly the supply my devices are asking for, which is tough sometimes. [stupid hd box pro and your 5v 2a supply] So the general rule of thumb is "Same voltage, at least as many amps"?
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# ? Feb 20, 2013 00:21 |
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Code Jockey posted:THANK YOU FOR THIS. Jesus christ I can never remember this and it makes it a nightmare to shop for power supplies, I'm scared to buy anything but exactly the supply my devices are asking for, which is tough sometimes. Correct. Also one thing I forgot to mention is if the bottom of your system says volts and wattage you can easily figure out the amperage by using ohm's law which is the equation P=IE where P=Watts, I=Amps and E=Voltage. So let's say you have 9V DC with 17 Watts you would divide 17 by 9 which will give you the amperage needed. Edit: oh and the other big thing I forgot - when shopping for replacement power supplies you will always want to make sure you get a regulated power supply. Reason being is a regulated power supply is built in a way that it will output the voltage advertised whereas unregulated if the circuit is not being utilized to the fullest extent tends to fluctuate the voltage to compensate for the added unused portion. This is most noticeable in variable power supplies where you use a lower-end voltage and being unregulated will output a much higher voltage. flyboi fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Feb 20, 2013 |
# ? Feb 20, 2013 00:28 |
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flyboi posted:Everything you need to know about power supplies: You. I want to hug you. I know it's not that these concepts are beyond me or anything, but it appears to have been a matter of someone putting it into a perspective I can comprehend and this is fabulous. Thank you. (this is especially helpful to me since it ties into what I know from working with computer PSUs for a long time as AC/DC versus voltage conversions or anything aren't issues there, just wattage and line amperages and stuff) Caitlin fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Feb 20, 2013 |
# ? Feb 20, 2013 00:37 |
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Are the original gameboy copies of Pokemon Red and Blue supposed to have dead internal batteries now?
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# ? Feb 20, 2013 00:41 |
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Ularg posted:Are the original gameboy copies of Pokemon Red and Blue supposed to have dead internal batteries now?
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# ? Feb 20, 2013 00:49 |
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Obeast posted:I think a lot of it depends on the batteries themselves and how the well the games were taken care of, but I doubt they should be dead by now since I have a few NES carts (which use the same type of batteries as GB games) that still hold saves just fine. Yea, I just tested it out again. I wanted to do one more full run before they croked but never got around to it. I think I've somehow managed to take care of a GBC and GB not to have them break on me. Though I'm not sure what to do with either of them once nothing I want to play can be played on them.
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# ? Feb 20, 2013 00:50 |
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Code Jockey posted:So the general rule of thumb is "Same voltage, at least as many amps"? Yep, and this is exactly why I don't bother with stepdown converters. Instead of having a bunch of giant bricks hanging around or one that I constantly have to unplug stuff from to switch systems, I just get supplies that can provide the right voltage at at least the right current (with the correct polarity and the correct tip if I can so I don't have to gently caress around with rewiring those) and I'm set. Edit: 8-bit Miniboss posted:Retro Gaming Megathread: Actually, you will need an Electronics Degree after all Unfortunately, that's kinda true. I've got enough of a background in this stuff that I can manage, but I've found that very few electrical engineers are good at explaining things (which, incidentally, is why every course I've taken in it has been non-stop pain and suffering) so I'm not surprised that there are questions on it. We should really put that big info block flyboi wrote up in the OP or the wiki or something. Kreeblah fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Feb 20, 2013 |
# ? Feb 20, 2013 01:06 |
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So how many of you actually sit down and play your drat games? Myself, I've already finished 5 Mario games for the Mario Marathon.
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# ? Feb 20, 2013 01:06 |
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Ineffiable posted:So how many of you actually sit down and play your drat games? I'm workin' on it!
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# ? Feb 20, 2013 01:08 |
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Ularg posted:Are the original gameboy copies of Pokemon Red and Blue supposed to have dead internal batteries now? That's highly variable. Some will, others won't.
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# ? Feb 20, 2013 01:11 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 12:25 |
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IT WORKS Finally got the twin working. Needed to replace the B941 transistor on the power supply. A huge thanks to Flyboi, who again proves he is the best new poster in the thread. Now of course I have to get the disk system working, but baby steps.
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# ? Feb 20, 2013 01:20 |