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Is there a good place online I can order just a handful of fasteners? I need 1 6mm bolt in either torx or allen and 8 of whatever the screws are that attach the forward fairing. The PO lost the 6mm that attaches the rear fairing and replaced all the forward fairing screws with crappy philips screws. I want to get it back to looking all stock and clean. Does anyone have any experience with trying to use nail polish or something to just cover up some minor scuffing on fairings? The bike was dropped and It's not worth it to have them repainted, but I'd like to make them less noticeable.
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Feb 24, 2013 00:41
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Is there a good place online I can order just a handful of fasteners? I need 1 6mm bolt in either torx or allen and 8 of whatever the screws are that attach the forward fairing. The PO lost the 6mm that attaches the rear fairing and replaced all the forward fairing screws with crappy philips screws. I want to get it back to looking all stock and clean. I like boltdepot.com, but the shipping is silly for just one or two bolts. You can also get (vastly overpriced) OEM bolts from places like bikebandit. The only reason to do that is for non-generic sizes. I also like colorrite.com's paint for OEM matched touchup kits.
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Feb 24, 2013 03:18
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Is there a good place online I can order just a handful of fasteners? http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex ?
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Feb 24, 2013 03:42
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Mr. Eric Praline posted:I like boltdepot.com, but the shipping is silly for just one or two bolts. You can also get (vastly overpriced) OEM bolts from places like bikebandit. The only reason to do that is for non-generic sizes. Awesome suggestion on colorrite, they have my color in a Pen. I'll order one as soon as I get paid next month. Any advice on prep for using a pen?
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Feb 24, 2013 03:47
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https://www.mcmaster.com will get you any bolt or screw you need. I am here to report success with my first ever carb cleaning! A few stripped bolts here and there, but with some replacements she's running better than the day I bought her! (It took seven and a half hours, and and my back is killing me.) Worth it!
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Feb 24, 2013 06:18
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Day Man posted:https://www.mcmaster.com will get you any bolt or screw you need. Next time it'll take you less than 1/4 of the time. It gets easier every time. Good job!  I'll check out mcmaster
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Feb 24, 2013 06:20
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Awesome suggestion on colorrite, they have my color in a Pen. I'll order one as soon as I get paid next month. Any advice on prep for using a pen? Best possible advice is to practice several times on a piece of scrap plastic or something before putting it on your actual body panel. Buy 2 pens so you have enough to practice with. Mr. Eric Praline fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Feb 24, 2013 |
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Feb 24, 2013 17:54
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Does anyone have any experience with these MotoBatt AGM batteries? Several Aprilia forums swear by them, but everyone else seems to think they're okay but conventional gel-type batteries are better.
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Feb 24, 2013 23:25
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I put a MotoBatt in the Daytona last year and haven't had any problems starting it since, a friend of mine swears by them and only them and I haven't heard any problems from him either. I read this in-depth review before I bought it and it seemed like a good choice
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Feb 25, 2013 01:36
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What's the standard adhesive for doing things like securing rubber grommets in place? The grommets that cushion the front of the tank against the frame on EX500s tend to fall off, and I can't find anything clearer than just "epoxy" for how to secure them. Brand/type/strength?
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Feb 25, 2013 02:48
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Does anyone have any experience with these MotoBatt AGM batteries? Several Aprilia forums swear by them, but everyone else seems to think they're okay but conventional gel-type batteries are better. I put one in my ST1300 about a year ago, so far so good
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Feb 25, 2013 02:51
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Where would I be able to find a printable exploded diagram of a or a pair of Mikuni BS38 Carburetors?
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Feb 25, 2013 03:44
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:What's the standard adhesive for doing things like securing rubber grommets in place? The grommets that cushion the front of the tank against the frame on EX500s tend to fall off, and I can't find anything clearer than just "epoxy" for how to secure them. Brand/type/strength? I use E6000 to glue drat near everything I need to glue. http://www.amazon.com/E-6000-Med-Visc-1-Ounce-Adhesive/dp/B000XZTD14 It's basically the same stuff as model airplane glue.
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Feb 25, 2013 05:26
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McTinkerson posted:Where would I be able to find a printable exploded diagram of a or a pair of Mikuni BS38 Carburetors? http://www.practicalalchemy.org/~nerobro/public/Pictures/Motorcycles/MikuniCarbClean/ Mikunicarbclean01-whatever are bs32's. They're close enough.
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Feb 25, 2013 06:30
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My bike had it's first service since I've owned it on Saturday and they mentioned that there's some lateral movement in the swingarm. I haven't got a clue where to start with this one. Is it likely to just be loose bolts where it connects to the frame or something more in depth?
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Feb 25, 2013 10:59
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:My bike had it's first service since I've owned it on Saturday and they mentioned that there's some lateral movement in the swingarm. The bolt connecting the swingarm to the frame won't do that unless it's pretty much completely missing, movement on that axis is controlled by tolerances in the bushings, not the tightness of the bolt. Which bike is it? You may have lovely plastic bushings in the swingarm pivot. If you replace them with new bronze bushings and a fresh application of grease, your swingarm should be nice and centered again.
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Feb 25, 2013 12:31
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It's a naked SV650 K4. So it probably has the cheapest of cheap parts down in there I think I might be farming this one out to the local garage, from some more googling it seems like something I really don't want to gently caress up!
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Feb 25, 2013 14:30
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Mr. Eric Praline posted:I use E6000 to glue drat near everything I need to glue. http://www.amazon.com/E-6000-Med-Visc-1-Ounce-Adhesive/dp/B000XZTD14 Wal-mart sells big tubes of it in the craft section. That stuff is magic. I knocked a starter housing off my workbench and it jarred one of the permanent magnets loose. Broke out the E6000, and 3 years later that starter is still working fine.
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Feb 25, 2013 16:38
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Sagebrush posted:Are they racked? Don't take them off the rack. Why not? Once he pulls the slides to clean the carbs, he still needs to synch them, on or off the rack.
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Feb 25, 2013 17:02
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Tamir Lenk posted:Why not? Once he pulls the slides to clean the carbs, he still needs to synch them, on or off the rack. Because getting a rack back together can be a giant pain in the rear end.
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Feb 25, 2013 18:48
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BlackMK4 posted:Because getting a rack back together can be a giant pain in the rear end. v0v My carbs jump back together on the rack pretty easily. I've seen people that hate (a) synching carbs if only because they don't have the manometer or vacuum gauge, etc.; and (b) reinstalling carbs where they are a tight fit with the airbox. Never seen anyone frustrated with going from separate carbs to the rack. Ofc not all carbs/racks are the same, so maybe I just got lucky with easy reassembly.
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Feb 25, 2013 18:57
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Tamir Lenk posted:Why not? Once he pulls the slides to clean the carbs, he still needs to synch them, on or off the rack. Because a decent portion of the advice handed out around here is based upon regurgitation of someone else's post not necessarily any real experience. I'm sure some carbs come off their racks just fine and others don't.
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Feb 25, 2013 19:10
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Tamir Lenk posted:Why not? Once he pulls the slides to clean the carbs, he still needs to synch them, on or off the rack.
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Feb 25, 2013 19:14
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:It's a naked SV650 K4. So it probably has the cheapest of cheap parts down in there It's probably a pretty simple job in the grand scheme of things but given - the difficulty of supporting the weight of the bike off the swingarm (while keeping it straight and sturdy enough for the inevitable hammering involved) and - the consequences if you gently caress it up, as you mentioned, are pretty catastrophic, then yeah it's worth getting someone who knows what they're doing (and can be sued if they don't) to do it.
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Feb 25, 2013 19:31
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You're sure they said (and meant) swing arm and not the rear wheel right? Wheel bearings can go bad and let the wheel have some play which may be what they mean. I feel like that's more common than pivot bearings / bushings going bad... If you do want to do it yourself you can get a ladder and use ratchet straps to suspend the rear of the bike while you work.
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Feb 25, 2013 19:35
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Don't have a torque wrench and the bike's overdue for its annual service, so I'm going to let the mechanics take care of the new chain + sprockets + front brake rotor while they're doing that. Any idea how much that should set me back?
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Feb 25, 2013 21:04
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I'm kind of bummed out. I got told my bike is putting out small puffs of white smoke this past weekend. It only seems to happen on acceleration. I was able to reproduce it while the bike was hot just by revving it moderately hard. I tried doing it when the bike was cold and didn't see the same smoke, but I need to re-test that since the lighting is not great in my garage. From a quick google white = coolant. A couple weeks back I picked up a massive radiator leak. It was spraying coolant 5 feet and the hole was pretty low on the radiator so it pretty much emptied it. I only noticed when the bike went into limp mode at something like 250f. I dont remember what it maxed out at. I was riding along enjoying the road and not really paying attention to the instrument cluster. I pulled over and we did a road side repair with quick steel putty, and filled it up with drinking water (which I drained and replaced at home with actual coolant/distilled water asap) to get it back home. However now I am thinking perhaps I warped something when it overheated. The smoke is coming from the right exhaust only (its an 07 tuono so vtwin) so I figure maybe one head gasket might be leaking very slightly or something along those lines? Any suggestions on how to diagnose it better than that? There was still coolant in the overflow tank, but I checked it hot and probably need to check it again tonight when its cold. The oil in the sight tube looked normal, should I drain it and check it? It is running just fine, no overheating, nothing really out of the ordinary and I didn't even know about the smoke until about 8 people in the group came up to me throughout the day.
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Feb 25, 2013 21:15
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Wootcannon posted:Don't have a torque wrench and the bike's overdue for its annual service, so I'm going to let the mechanics take care of the new chain + sprockets + front brake rotor while they're doing that. Any idea how much that should set me back? Can't remember where you are, but chain is about $100 - $150 for a decent one, sprockets about the same for both, front rotor about $80, and probably about an hour and a half or 2 in labour. $450 - $550 I'd say with the labour rates around where I am.
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Feb 25, 2013 21:20
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At risk of  Anyone use any of the stuff from these guys? http://www.phantomplate.com/ I don't ride like an rear end as a few people here can probably vouch (clean license), but the my city has started jumping on the speed camera bandwagon in a big way and are openly using them as revenue generators. That spray sounds intriguing and supposedly works well, but I just wonder how long it lasts?
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Feb 25, 2013 21:23
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Shimrod posted:Can't remember where you are, but chain is about $100 - $150 for a decent one, sprockets about the same for both, front rotor about $80, and probably about an hour and a half or 2 in labour. $450 - $550 I'd say with the labour rates around where I am. He's in Scotland so it'll be three cat's teeth and half a groat. (Should be under £250 assuming they don't gently caress you too badly on the labour costs)
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Feb 25, 2013 21:24
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It's the West of Scotland, so it'd actually be in jars of Granny's methadone. Or one blowjob. Looks like she'll be waiting a while then as I'm still getting arsed about by an employer. Odd that you should say the prices for the chain though, I had this chain + sprocket set in my Amazon basket for £28. Wootcannon fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Feb 25, 2013 |
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Feb 25, 2013 21:27
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slidebite posted:At risk of The spray-on stuff (assuming it's the reflector stuff and not just hairspray like the first-generation stuff was) will work against some cameras some of the time but in the UK at least if they catch you using any kind of product designed to prevent your plate being read by ANPR or speed cameras then you're in pretty deep poo poo. Ironically the better it works the more likely you are to be caught (and here they have CCTV cameras attached to the speed cameras to help make it easier to track you down and gently caress you over).
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Feb 25, 2013 21:28
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GanjamonII posted:I'm kind of bummed out. I got told my bike is putting out small puffs of white smoke this past weekend. It only seems to happen on acceleration. I was able to reproduce it while the bike was hot just by revving it moderately hard. I tried doing it when the bike was cold and didn't see the same smoke, but I need to re-test that since the lighting is not great in my garage. Do a compression test and drain the oil and check it for cross contamination. Same with the radiator fluid. If compression is good, no cross contamination, you're probably ok. White smoke can also just be condensation in the system burning off.
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Feb 25, 2013 21:31
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goddamnedtwisto posted:(and here they have CCTV cameras attached to the speed cameras to help make it easier to track you down and gently caress you over). Which leads to wonderful photos like this 
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Feb 25, 2013 21:32
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Wootcannon posted:It's the West of Scotland, so it'd actually be in jars of Granny's methadone. Or one blowjob. Yeah it seemed a bit on the high side for me too but that's suspiciously cheap, I'd have said around £50-75 for a decent set.
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Feb 25, 2013 21:52
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Wootcannon posted:It's the West of Scotland, so it'd actually be in jars of Granny's methadone. Or one blowjob. I'm in Australia, we get dicked on prices with everything. I paid those prices for my last chain and sprocket set but I did the change myself.
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Feb 25, 2013 22:51
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Yeah it seemed a bit on the high side for me too but that's suspiciously cheap, I'd have said around £50-75 for a decent set. it seems cbr125 chain&sproket sets are really cheap http://www.wemoto.com has them ranging from 25-50 quid. Those are all non o-ring though, o-ring chains are about the same price as they are for bigger bikes
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Feb 25, 2013 23:00
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We put a o-ring chain on the wife's XL175 and then took it right off in favor of a $20 roller chain... the o-ring chain added a bunch of drivetrain resistance that the 14hp motor had trouble with. I suspect the story would be similar with a CBR125 and a o-ring chain.
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Feb 25, 2013 23:10
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I suspect the added rust and grime you get with a non O-ring chain would start to weigh down on any bike if you don't keep up on chain maintenance pretty well. This isn't as big a deal if you only keep it garaged and ride on nice days but if you ride in the rain and such non O-ring chains are a bad deal imo.
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Feb 25, 2013 23:18
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Z3n posted:Do a compression test and drain the oil and check it for cross contamination. Same with the radiator fluid. If compression is good, no cross contamination, you're probably ok. White smoke can also just be condensation in the system burning off. Thanks, I will try do it this week. Quick question on compression testing. From a quick google on how to do this (for a car) it seems I need to interrupt spark to both cylinders, then test each cylinder separately. However the bike is going to keep dumping gas into the cylinders right? Does that matter for this purpose? Or do I need to disable the injectors also?
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Feb 26, 2013 00:50
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