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IOwnCalculus posted:That looks to me like that twisted pair is being used for phone, not network - is it actually Cat5 or is it Cat3? There are ports on the walls in each room highlighted in blue that say Cat5E. I brought out a cable to double check and they do snap in. And I also just discovered the phone lines are connected through the same port in the other rooms.  Thanks for catching that. I guess I have to forgo the hard-line networking idea.
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Mar 17, 2013 22:36
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You have a good shot of getting 100mbps over that cable anyway, just wire some phone plugs to an ethernet cable! edit: i meant wire ethernet plugs to the phone cables! LRADIKAL fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Mar 18, 2013 |
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Mar 17, 2013 22:49
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Mitsune posted:There are ports on the walls in each room highlighted in blue that say Cat5E. I brought out a cable to double check and they do snap in. See if you can get a contractor to use the phone lines to pull a bundle of Ethernet lines and then add dual/quad port jacks where the current jacks are. When the cable is already run and they can use it as a pull they can get the work done a lot quicker / cheaper.
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Mar 18, 2013 08:05
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If it was me, I would just disconnect it all from the phone system and reterminate it with RJ45 at both ends.
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Mar 18, 2013 14:51
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Not sure if this is the right thread, but here it goes! I need to cover ~40 different rooms (over two floors, roughly 20x50 meters per floor) using Wi-Fi. The good news is that every single room already has a CAT5 connection. The bad news is that I can’t figure out what brand of Access Points to buy. I ordered two Ubiquiti UniFi APs to test them out but they’re really not all that great in my eyes. They sometimes get stuck and crash for no apparent reason and I’m not sold on the idea of requiring a controller in the network to run 24/7 just to manage and monitor the APs. Also the proprietary PoE implementation seems very strange to say the least. What would you guys recommend as an alternative? The rooms are hotel rooms and we had people steal APs before (sad, I know, but it’s not possible to physically secure them), so I thought about buying a dozen of WRT-54GLs on Ebay, put DD-wrt on each them, schedule a daily reboot and call it a day.
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Mar 18, 2013 18:42
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Have you updated the firmware to the latest version the UniFi Aps? Mine has been stable going on 6 months now. You don't have to actually leave the "controller" program running 24/7 to be able to use them either.
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Mar 18, 2013 19:28
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poxin posted:Have you updated the firmware to the latest version the UniFi Aps? Mine has been stable going on 6 months now. You don't have to actually leave the "controller" program running 24/7 to be able to use them either. Yes, I have upgraded and downgraded them a few times. Looks like it’s a pretty common issue and it is even worse in 3.0 beta. I’m glad I only bought two to test them out. http://community.ubnt.com/t5/UniFi/UniFi-AP-s-stop-accepting-clients-and-need-reboot/td-p/292497/page/4
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Mar 18, 2013 20:40
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I've used Meraki AP's in the past, but you definitely pay more for them. It depends how much into the enterprise side you want to venture. You could also check out MikroTik's offerings.
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Mar 18, 2013 21:01
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eames posted:Not sure if this is the right thread, but here it goes! I need to cover ~40 different rooms (over two floors, roughly 20x50 meters per floor) using Wi-Fi. You should be fine with between 5 and 6 Access Points for a property that size, providing the rooms aren't made of out concrete or encased in steel. My suggestions: - Purchase a PoE switch that's managed with enough power budget to power your selected Access Points at full power requirement. In my experience, Access Points won't draw full power unless you have many users online, or plenty of activity. The PoE switch is important, as it'll allow you to reset the devices remotely without entering the hotel rooms. - Purchase one of your selected Access Points first. Use this Access Point to conduct signal testing to establish the location for each of your Access Points. - Apply static IP settings to each Access Point so you can remotely manage it. - You can cover the Access Points with housing made from PVC or Wood with minimal impact to your signal. Look for electrical supply stores which usually have some PVC boxes that work very well. Alternatively, run surface mount cabling within the rooms and mount the Access Point to the ceiling. Most new Access Points now look like smoke detectors. Some parts that may help you: Switches Cisco SMB - SRW208P-K9-NA (8 port managed 10/100 PoE switch) Cisco SMB - SRW224G4P-K9-NA (24 port managed 10/100 PoE switch) Access Points Cisco WAP321 (Each can support up to 25 users) Cisco WAP121 (This one is cheaper, and probably fine for your use. Supports up to 10 users each) Cisco WAP200 (Fairly solid Access Point, I've used thousands. Soon to be discontinued and only Wireless-G - Unwieldy external Antenna's) I've been designing hotel systems and structured cabling for years now, if you have any questions you can PM me. Edit: I should mention I haven't really liked the WAP121 very much. Personally, I'd probably take the WAP200 over the WAP121. In your hotel environment, you won't need over Wireless-G for quite a while yet. I'm sure the ISP connection to the building isn't over 50Mbps. Windowlicker fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Mar 19, 2013 |
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Mar 19, 2013 00:30
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IOwnCalculus posted:If it was me, I would just disconnect it all from the phone system and reterminate it with RJ45 at both ends. I recommend this as well. It's what I've done in my home since I have just one Cat5 cable going to each room, and I only have one phone jack in use in the kitchen. I recommend getting a small Cat6 patch panel from Monoprice and wiring the Cat5 Ethernet lines to that, in that On-Q (in-wall) central box. Then make sure the RJ45 connectors are wired correctly in the keystone jacks in the rooms that need wired Ethernet. One thing about the Unifi APs is that they are designed to be mounted on the ceiling or on a wall, so if you can get an Ethernet cable in the attic, you can punch a hole down to connect the AP via the PoE Ethernet cable, and it looks like a big smoke detector.
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Mar 19, 2013 03:02
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Windowlicker posted:[extremely helpful stuff] Thank you, I will look into the Cisco setup. I like the specs of the Cisco WAP321s because I’m dealing with steel reinforced concrete walls and a 200 Mbit fiber line here. I will send you a PM later if you don’t mind because I’d love to know how you deal with access authentication, encryption and traffic shaping in your deployments. We used a Zyxel G-4100v2 which has a simple one-touch thermal printer for vouchers as well as some surprisingly useful technologies (for example what they call "IP Plug any Play", it somehow forces a working DHCP connection on a client that has static IP/subnet/DNS-settings configured on their network adapter). The problem with that thing is that it just does not scale with the recent jump in bandwidth/usage requirements... most guests brings two devices, they use youtube/skype/facetime/netflix excessively, upload pictures, etc. Add one person that thinks its a great idea to torrent 10 of the latest movies on his business trip as well as one long term guest with a Windows XP installation dating back to 2002 and featuring every spamming botnet trojan known to mankind...  poxin posted:I've used Meraki AP's in the past, but you definitely pay more for them. It depends how much into the enterprise side you want to venture. You could also check out MikroTik's offerings. Meraki looks really interesting. Almost like a working version of UniFi! I like the integrated L7 traffic shaping and monitoring in particular. The down side is that the APs are expensive bricks if Cisco ever decides to stop their cloud service. The price of the APs would still be acceptable if we get a 100% solid network for it.
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Mar 19, 2013 10:46
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eames posted:Thank you, I will look into the Cisco setup. I like the specs of the Cisco WAP321s because I’m dealing with steel reinforced concrete walls and a 200 Mbit fiber line here. That steal and concrete will reduce or eliminate signal bleed like crazy. quote:I’d love to know how you deal with access authentication, encryption and traffic shaping in your deployments. Here are some examples of companies that do this. You more or less need an appliance/router/gateway that has the capability integrated: http://ihotel.intello.com/en http://www.guest-tek.com/ http://www.superclick.com/ quote:We used a Zyxel G-4100v2 which has a simple one-touch thermal printer for vouchers as well as some surprisingly useful technologies (for example what they call "IP Plug any Play", it somehow forces a working DHCP connection on a client that has static IP/subnet/DNS-settings configured on their network adapter). I'd personally steer clear of Zyxel. I've worked extensively with the Access Points, PoE switches, and DSLAM's created by that company, and found them to be very problematic and needlessly complex. That's personal preference though, if it's working for you that's great  quote:The problem with that thing is that it just does not scale with the recent jump in bandwidth/usage requirements... most guests brings two devices, they use youtube/skype/facetime/netflix excessively, upload pictures, etc. You may be able to avoid a guest authentication provider as for a property with 40 rooms it might not make sense to bring a third party in to handle authentication. I'm pretty sure there are some Cisco routers on the market that will allow traffic shaping that could get you where you need to go. Sonicwall also makes some fairly good content filtering devices that will block some (Not all) torrents. At a property that small you could probably just enable AP Isolation and it should keep your wireless clients separated.
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Mar 19, 2013 13:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:If it was me, I would just disconnect it all from the phone system and reterminate it with RJ45 at both ends. Its only when you start trying to use stuff like shielded CAT6a, CAT7, or fiber that termination starts to get tricky IMO. Mitsune posted:I found the panel where it all leads to, but have no clue how to bring my modem+router in the mix: The alternative is go and be a little fancy like I did and put up a wall mount rack, rackmount patch panel, appropriate switch, and a rack shelf to hold your modem and router. Costs more but its all neat and organized. If you've never done any wiring before it all looks/sounds intimidating but it really isn't. Just go slow and do one cable at a time. Or you can always hire a low voltage/ethernet guy to do it for you. Actual rates will vary quite a bit depending on where you are in the country but around where I live (NW US) I'd estimate the hardware + labor would come to around $150-200 to have that job done by a professional. Good luck. PC LOAD LETTER fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Mar 19, 2013 |
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Mar 19, 2013 21:55
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PC LOAD LETTER posted:If you've never done any wiring before it all looks/sounds intimidating but it really isn't. Just go slow and do one cable at a time. Or you can always hire a low voltage/ethernet guy to do it for you. Actual rates will vary quite a bit depending on where you are in the country but around where I live (NW US) I'd estimate the hardware + labor would come to around $150-200 to have that job done by a professional. Good luck. If you're not sure about doing this stuff there are plenty of contractors who are. Provided you have a good idea of what you'd like done they can usually do it pretty quickly and they will already have the appropriate equipment to carry out the work. Their time cost can easily compete with your potential costs and time that you could spend working on it. That said there's nothing wrong with carrying work out like this as a hobby project (so long as you finish the job).
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Mar 20, 2013 00:37
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IOwnCalculus posted:If it was me, I would just disconnect it all from the phone system and reterminate it with RJ45 at both ends. Somewhat tangentially, what would you do for situation where the cat5 phone cable was daisy chained to each phone jack? I'm pretty sure I can't pull more wire to every room, unfortunately. Theoretically, I could split each termination on the chain and use extenders to have two runs to each room, right? Is that the best way to solve this problem? (I probably didn't explain that clearly enough...)
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Mar 20, 2013 01:32
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snickles posted:Somewhat tangentially, what would you do for situation where the cat5 phone cable was daisy chained to each phone jack? I'm pretty sure I can't pull more wire to every room, unfortunately. Theoretically, I could split each termination on the chain and use extenders to have two runs to each room, right? Is that the best way to solve this problem? (I probably didn't explain that clearly enough...) It's a shame that the installer did that but it's not uncommon. You might be able to split up the pairs in the cable which would effectively give you two independent cables, past the first two jacks I'm not sure what the best way to approach this would be. I'll ask the electrical department in my office if there's anything else that could be done and update if they have any other ideas. e: they came back with the helpful suggestion of running cable if possible. I don't think there's going to be any great solution with the existing wiring. Devian666 fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Mar 20, 2013 |
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Mar 20, 2013 03:17
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Got the actiontec moca boxes set up. It is like some kind of dark magic. Not surprising I guess since it's just a wired media bridge thing, but it still feels weird that all I had to do was plug it all in, no config or anything.
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Mar 20, 2013 03:23
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Devian666 posted:It's a shame that the installer did that but it's not uncommon. You might be able to split up the pairs in the cable which would effectively give you two independent cables, past the first two jacks I'm not sure what the best way to approach this would be. I'll ask the electrical department in my office if there's anything else that could be done and update if they have any other ideas. Yeah, that's what I figured. Most of the existing wiring is on external walls and the holes are sealed in a manner that I can't seem to decipher. I'm sure a pro would have no trouble but I'm afraid to mess with things I don't understand. Thanks for the advice, though.
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Mar 20, 2013 04:00
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Dogen posted:Got the actiontec moca boxes set up. It is like some kind of dark magic. Not surprising I guess since it's just a wired media bridge thing, but it still feels weird that all I had to do was plug it all in, no config or anything. Theoretically it should be the same as just plugging in ethernet, and it's good to hear that it works just as easily. snickles posted:Yeah, that's what I figured. Most of the existing wiring is on external walls and the holes are sealed in a manner that I can't seem to decipher. I'm sure a pro would have no trouble but I'm afraid to mess with things I don't understand. Thanks for the advice, though. Sealing the holes depends on where and what purpose the lining/cladding serves. Something to be careful about. Improperly sealed holes in external cladding is bad for weather tightness. For interior walls it can very, sometimes holes in drywall/plasterboard are just sealed for the sake of it and other times it can be fire sealing. It varies depending on the building, legal boundaries and local/national building codes and regulations. Devian666 fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Mar 20, 2013 |
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Mar 20, 2013 04:04
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If this is the wrong place, I'm very sorry! I've looked through the help/faqs of the forum, but wasn't quite sure where this would go. It's just me asking for a recommendation: Can anyone recommend what the best ISP for Austin, Texas area? I'm just looking for good speed for the sake of gaming, watching videos, and hopefully somewhat reliable customer service if it's ever needed. Any recommendations?
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Mar 20, 2013 21:13
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I would've asked in the Austin LAN thread, but I'll tell you Grande has been awesome for me. I think them and TWC trade off in quality depending on neighborhood. Uverse was more expensive for less speed although very stable when I was using it. I think any decent DSL providers have been rolled out of the market by AT&T pushing Uverse, which they don't have to open to competitors like they do with DSL. edit: I have the 30 meg service and it hits that mark consistently, low latency (in the 20s), torrenting and streaming no issues. The contractor was reasonably friendly, and they had no issue putting cable cards into my TiVos, which can be a tremendous pain. Dogen fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Mar 20, 2013 |
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Mar 20, 2013 21:44
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Ok, my E4200 is here. The stock firmware doesn't look like garbage, but should I be flashing it to DD-WRT anyway? Or Tomato (a quick google suggests Tomato isn't as good at the 5ghz band as DD-WRT, but I rarely trust recommendations from outside these forums).
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Mar 21, 2013 11:57
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Dogen posted:Got the actiontec moca boxes set up. It is like some kind of dark magic. Not surprising I guess since it's just a wired media bridge thing, but it still feels weird that all I had to do was plug it all in, no config or anything. Did you install a point of entry filter? Amazon doesn't seem to sell them, but TiVo does, it basically just prevents all the moca signals from leaving your house.
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Mar 21, 2013 17:46
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I'm trying to help my parents update their wireless network. Due to the size and mysterious wifi deadzones of my parents' house, compounded by the worst coax wiring of all time, the cable modem HAS to be in the TV room by the cable box, because neither will work at all without being on the one good line with a signal booster on it. The problem then is that, in a 3 story house with a death-to-wifi kitchen located in the center, they need to get wifi through the kitchen to the office in the opposite corner of the house; the master bedroom above the kitchen and office doesn't do so well either. They have an ancient hero WRT54g v4 running tomato alongside the cable modem, and a few years ago to try to fix their wifi issues I installed a second router, a WRT54g v8 running DD-WRT micro, which I use for WDS from another spot which ostensibly has wifi line of sight to everyone. It's a big house though and wifi doesn't like the walls either so it still gets patchy at the extremes. It'd be nice just to put a more powerful router in the center and ditch everything but, well, that'd be the kitchen, and I know from painful experience with cox support that most of the outlets in that part of the house have conspicuously waaaay too much noise on the line. 1.) Would moving from b/g to b/g/n fix this? If I'm not mistaken n is just g with more radios so even though it advertises longer ranges I'm skeptical that it'd get appreciably more signal given that the walls of the house are actively at war with this frequency 1a.) From the OP suggestions the WNR3500L is currently on sale for $59 so I've currently got my eye on it to run tomato 2.) Could antenna upgrades for both routers do the trick? Because that'd cost like  e: oh and I tried the cutout parabolic reflectors and they did fuckall poverty goat fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Mar 21, 2013 |
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Mar 21, 2013 22:12
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Have you tried buying a couple of HomePlugs and try to see if you can use your electrical wiring? I did this at my parents house and it worked fine
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Mar 21, 2013 22:24
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gariig posted:Have you tried buying a couple of HomePlugs and try to see if you can use your electrical wiring? I did this at my parents house and it worked fine I looked into it but it's a large 3-story house with a ton of wires which has led me to expect poor performance from a powerline kit. If I could try one for free I'd have done it months ago but I'm not going to spend the money if it's probably going to be no better than what I've got. This pretty much goes the same for upgrading the routers, and they'd never actually use more bandwidth than that since they don't do much over the home network and they're bottlenecked from the outside by the cable company. poverty goat fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Mar 22, 2013 |
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Mar 21, 2013 22:27
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Maneki Neko posted:Did you install a point of entry filter? Amazon doesn't seem to sell them, but TiVo does, it basically just prevents all the moca signals from leaving your house. I wondered about that but people online seem to say in practice it's never an issue. I was thinking of picking up that p4+stream package that comes with a moca box and terminator, as well.
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Mar 22, 2013 00:24
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gggiiimmmppp posted:I'm trying to help my parents update their wireless network. Wireless N + wireless N extenders. Or G and wireless g extenders. Worked really well at my parents house. For the coax, trace it out to the demarcation point and see how many times the cable company split the drat thing. Another lovely thing at my parents that needed to be resolved.
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Mar 22, 2013 03:00
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Any recommendations on a Ubiquiti Nanostation v. an ASUS EA‐N66 for a bridge? The connection would be to an oldish but good consumer N router. This review of the latter that suggests ridiculous performance through interior walls, but that was with a $200 matching router. No one seems to publish performance tests of Ubiquiti gear, and if they did, it would probably be for outdoor use.
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Mar 22, 2013 12:21
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gggiiimmmppp posted:They have an ancient hero WRT54g v4 running tomato alongside the cable modem, and a few years ago to try to fix their wifi issues I installed a second router, a WRT54g v8 running DD-WRT micro, which I use for WDS from another spot which ostensibly has wifi line of sight to everyone. It's a big house though and wifi doesn't like the walls either so it still gets patchy at the extremes. You will see a significant increase in range from a newer router, however I'm fairly sure that's due to the addition of MIMO. In our testing in a lab setting, Wireless-N is not what will increase coverage radius on an Access Point. Wireless-N is more a reference to the data transfer rate. I personally think if you replace your two routers with something more current, it should improve service throughout the house. You are running custom firmware, is there a reason? Are there features you're missing that the custom firmware adds? The reason why I ask, is that custom firmware can quite often create an unstable device or irregularities in service. Unless you have a special requirement that the default firmware isn't fulfilling, I'd suggest to keep things stock. Some notes: - Antenna upgrades probably won't have the impact you are hoping they will. - If you are using a two router setup, make sure the second router has a static IP address within the subnet of the first router. And absolutely make sure you have the DHCP server in the second router disabled, or it'll cause instability on the network. I would personally advise you to stay away from extenders. Extenders won't be as stable as a dedicated Access Point. If you already have the cable run to support the extra Access Point, you might as well just upgrade the routers to something with a newer set of radio's. Edit: MIMO If you are curious: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MIMO
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Mar 22, 2013 13:52
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I'm having some issues with this E4200. I've got it, flashed it to DD-WRT (using a trailed build specifically for it), and hooked it into my home network. I plugged it into my Sky hub, disabled wireless and DHCP on the Sky hub, set the E4200 to a static IP and plugged anything wired into it. Two things seem to happen - it works fine for a bit and everything can connect, but the wireless signal is weaker than I was expecting. After a few minutes the wireless disappears completely, and connecting to it via a direct ethernet cable results in me being able to ping and connect to the Sky hub, but not to the router itself. Something is going seriously cockeyed here but I'm damned if I can figure it out. Any pointers? Edit: Am I supposed to be setting the WAN type to "Disabled" on the E4200? Fil5000 fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Mar 22, 2013 |
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Mar 22, 2013 16:53
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Windowlicker posted:You will see a significant increase in range from a newer router, however I'm fairly sure that's due to the addition of MIMO. In our testing in a lab setting, Wireless-N is not what will increase coverage radius on an Access Point. Wireless-N is more a reference to the data transfer rate. I personally think if you replace your two routers with something more current, it should improve service throughout the house. Primary router is 192.168.1.1, repeater is 192.168.1.2. With the exception of the farther rooms it works like a charm. They'd both run tomato if not for the repeater is a v8 which supports only dd-wrt micro. As for why, years and years ago the stock firmware wouldn't do what we needed to do or maybe couldn't do it encrypted or something like that but I got WDS working on a $20 WRT54G v8 and it's been doing WDS happily ever since Is there a better/easier way to do this nowadays? When I worked this all out for them for the first time I mostly just found a lot of poorly reviewed non-standard proprietary products, and then WDS. e: Also, DD_WRT is a little bloated for me; I prefer tomato due to not having to reboot all the time as well as some admin stuff and realtime monitoring/visualizations. DR-WRT and the stock firmware may even do all of that poo poo but I've just had tomato on my primary since Dubya was president. poverty goat fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Mar 23, 2013 |
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Mar 23, 2013 15:23
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gggiiimmmppp posted:
Honestly the cleanest way to extend wireless signal is through the addition of Access Points. My experience is anything else tends to be sloppy and more unstable. The radio's in the home based routers are frequently virtually identical to the radio's used in smaller business applications. There's nothing wrong with grabbing a few refurbished routers, disabling the DHCP server on all but one, and using them as AP's. Edit: To be clear how I've done it personally: Primary Router: Changed IP to 172.16.1.1 Changed DHCP Scope to a non-standard range DHCP Enabled Secondary (Access Point) router: Changed IP to 172.16.1.2 Disabled DHCP **Link is connected from LAN port of Primary router to LAN port of Secondary router. (Don't use the WAN on the secondary) ***Set static channels on the 2.4Ghz radios on both routers so they are either 1,6,11 and don't set two 1's or two 6's or two 11's or they'll interfear. ****Firmware on all devices is stock. Windowlicker fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Mar 23, 2013 |
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Mar 23, 2013 15:33
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Fil5000 posted:I'm having some issues with this E4200. I've got it, flashed it to DD-WRT I have an E4200. I get the impression there wasn't much love put into the firmware, so I didn't use it. http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php?title=Linksys_E4200 Lines like this scare the poo poo out of me from a networking perspective: quote:Support for the E4200 is still very much a work in progress at this time, outstanding issues reported have included WAN stability, and both 2.4GHz and 5GHz Radio stability. Edit: - WAN stability as a problem: The port on your router that's connected to your modem is fucky. - 2.4Ghz/5Ghz Radio stability as a problem: Don't bet on your wireless working. - If you disable your WAN, you are disabling the port that your modem is connecting to. Windowlicker fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Mar 23, 2013 |
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Mar 23, 2013 15:36
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Windowlicker, what AP would you suggest for a house using Wireless N?
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Mar 23, 2013 16:41
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Windowlicker posted:I have an E4200. I get the impression there wasn't much love put into the firmware, so I didn't use it. Do you suggest going back to the default firmware then? Or tomato?
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Mar 23, 2013 17:14
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Parlett316 posted:Windowlicker, what AP would you suggest for a house using Wireless N? If you want something that's a pure Access Point, the Cisco WAP321 is decent for the price point. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833150173 Alternatively, if you want something cheaper I'd look for a refurb Cisco. Anything with simultaneous 2.4Ghz/5Ghz and Gigabit ports should work. Edit: To give you an idea, at my place I'm using a Cisco E4200 as my primary router/AP/DHCP server. I have an old Cisco E3000 that acts as an Access Point and switch. The two devices are connected LAN port to LAN port, and the E3000 has a static IP / disabled DHCP server. The E4200 provides DHCP addresses to any clients connecting via the E3000's LAN or Wireless. Windowlicker fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Mar 23, 2013 |
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Mar 23, 2013 21:50
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Fil5000 posted:Do you suggest going back to the default firmware then? Or tomato? If you rely on that device and it has to be stable, I'd go back to the stock firmware. In my opinion, you only want to move away from stock firmware if that firmware isn't doing something you need it to.
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Mar 23, 2013 21:51
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Windowlicker posted:If you rely on that device and it has to be stable, I'd go back to the stock firmware. In my opinion, you only want to move away from stock firmware if that firmware isn't doing something you need it to. I'm getting the same issues with the stock firmware so I think it's hosed. Time to get an exchange.
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Mar 23, 2013 22:01
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gggiiimmmppp posted:I'm trying to help my parents update their wireless network. More and more retail outlets are carrying the powerline extenders. I think it truly is your best bet. Try and find a local place with a decent return policy and give it a whirl. The 200 and 500 mbps units have almost always worked for me and I've deployed dozens of pairs over the past few months.
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Mar 25, 2013 01:49
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