|
Spedman posted:Try this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_qeZOWqchM, I think its XKCD Larper. Tha is qpzil and the photo he is editing is one of mine.
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2013 16:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 18:09 |
|
|
Spedman posted:Try this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_qeZOWqchM, I think its XKCD Larper. That is, indeed, how large format lenses work. Think of the image circle as the intersection between the cone of light projected by the lens and the film plane. Focused at 1:1, the image circle is twice as wide as it is when focused at infinity; bellows extension focused at 1:1 is twice what it is focused at infinity.
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2013 16:25
|
|
|
I'm not entirely sure how to make the contrast and color on 'Conestoga' work for me. Jo's Country Market by Isaac Sachs, on Flickr  Conestoga by Isaac Sachs, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2013 20:31
|
|
|
Santa is strapped posted:Tha is qpzil and the photo he is editing is one of mine. Huh what that ain't me.
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2013 21:17
|
|
|
MrBlandAverage posted:That is, indeed, how large format lenses work. Think of the image circle as the intersection between the cone of light projected by the lens and the film plane. Focused at 1:1, the image circle is twice as wide as it is when focused at infinity; bellows extension focused at 1:1 is twice what it is focused at infinity. Cool, that's the idea I had in my head of cutting the image cone with the focal plane. I'll do some tests to see what are the lens's limitations. I was happy with how sharp the images are I get from it, and there wasn't any weird hazing, so I think it'll still work well for 8x10 tintype portraits.
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2013 22:43
|
|
|
Any interested parties in joining a New York Camera club? I made a post about it here.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2013 02:20
|
|
|
 Silat Primary School, Bukit Merah, 2013 by alkanphel, on Flickr  Fortune God by alkanphel, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2013 02:23
|
|
|
Spedman posted:Try this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_qeZOWqchM, I think its XKCD Larper. I just tried what the man says in this video and it works way better than what I was doing, which was using curves only.  2013-629 by Tom Rintjema, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2013 12:24
|
|
|
TomR posted:I just tried what the man says in this video and it works way better than what I was doing, which was using curves only. The background is a lot brighter than them; if you clamp off everything above 225 on your curve you might be able to get more contrast on their skin without the background clipping. You can do it by putting a point at 225,225 and another at 230,230. I dont have PS on this computer so I can test if I'm right or not but it's probably close to that. Edit Sorry my laptop screen is terrible and I Was Wrong, and it looks pretty good on my Color Calibrated NEC MultiSync LCD2090UXi. The XKCD Larper fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Apr 14, 2013 |
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2013 15:23
|
|
|
I don't know how to make the first one not look like an explosion of orange and red but the original file did not render the street lights well and the picture did not come out very good color-wise. It's just because I was shooting with the wrong film for that particular look. But I tweaked it to be closer to how it was that night but it still looks like overkill I think, especially compared to the last one, but that was shot with tungsten balanced film.  
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2013 04:51
|
|
|
Mannequin posted:I don't know how to make the first one not look like an explosion of orange and red but the original file did not render the street lights well and the picture did not come out very good color-wise. It's just because I was shooting with the wrong film for that particular look. But I tweaked it to be closer to how it was that night but it still looks like overkill I think, especially compared to the last one, but that was shot with tungsten balanced film. I really like what you're going for here, but I've always hated when little details like a car being in the background of a shot ruin them for me. If not for those cars these would be timeless. I also wish that coke bottle was pin straight. But, as usual, I love your shots regardless. Now here's some lovely photos of my friend being a model for me:  Impromptu. by Scott LaChapelle, on Flickr  Fixer Upper. by Scott LaChapelle, on Flickr  Sun Fringe. by Scott LaChapelle, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2013 14:08
|
|
|
Oh no Mannequin your Coke bottle is about to fall over 
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2013 14:14
|
|
|
Mannequin posted:I don't know how to make the first one not look like an explosion of orange and red but the original file did not render the street lights well and the picture did not come out very good color-wise. You could convert it to B+W but frankly I don't think the composition is interesting enough to stand on its own. It's just an infinity wall shot, here's the same thing in my town:  The only thing that makes my image interesting to me is the rotation. There's nothing wrong with embracing the monochromatic thing though! It's a nice scene and I actually like the color, it just needs a subject that would be highlighted by that orange and red glow. I may be biased because I just got an 11x14 metallic print of this  and it came out great.  I've printed the B+W neg before but never the slide.scotty posted:I really like what you're going for here, but I've always hated when little details like a car being in the background of a shot ruin them for me. If not for those cars these would be timeless. This is one reason I'm preparing to give large format a serious try. Theoretically the Scheimpflug principle is the solution to this - tilt your plane of focus away from things you want out of focus (and conversely, shift it towards things you want in focus to increase apparent depth-of-field without stopping way down). Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 14:42 on Apr 16, 2013 |
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2013 14:23
|
|
|
Paul MaudDib posted:This is one reason I'm preparing to give large format a serious try. Theoretically the Scheimpflug principle is the solution to this - tilt your plane of focus away from things you want out of focus (and conversely, shift it towards things you want in focus to increase apparent depth-of-field without stopping way down). do it pull the trigger
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2013 18:24
|
|
|
Paul MaudDib posted:You could convert it to B+W but frankly I don't think the composition is interesting enough to stand on its own. It's just an infinity wall shot, here's the same thing in my town: What was interesting was the light, not the wall so much, and the color just was not captured well and I had to do a little bit of improv in Photoshop which I don't like to do. Night shots are tricky though, not so much for the exposure, but for knowing which films will work best in the conditions. QPZIL posted:Oh no Mannequin your Coke bottle is about to fall over Don't see it. Should it be tilting left?
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2013 22:44
|
|
|
Crosspost from the portrait thread. These are printed on 12x16 Ilford fine art paper. The tooth of the paper is really pronounced and it has a slight gloss to it. So the scan looks a bit rough, but the quality in person is just amazing. I'm hurting bad, though, because it's 3BPS a sheet.   The Cadet by McMadCow, on Flickr  The Cadet by McMadCow, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2013 10:49
|
|
|
He is one striking looking dude, are you getting those deep blacks with lots of burning?
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2013 13:08
|
|
|
Paul MaudDib posted:This is one reason I'm preparing to give large format a serious try. Theoretically the Scheimpflug principle is the solution to this - tilt your plane of focus away from things you want out of focus (and conversely, shift it towards things you want in focus to increase apparent depth-of-field without stopping way down). You are a giant goon If I ever heard someone say the word Scheimpflug to me when I was trying to work I'd knee them in the balls
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2013 14:21
|
|
|
I used the Scheimpflug principle to increase the apparent depth of field in these photographs. Three Months After Christmas by Isaac Sachs, on Flickr  Three Months After Christmas by Isaac Sachs, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2013 15:55
|
|
|
Spedman posted:He is one striking looking dude, are you getting those deep blacks with lots of burning? It's the way I print. Yes I burn the borders to vignette the scene, but the blacks in my printing come from using split filters, which means I can get the blacks as bold as I want while essentially still keeping the whites as they are.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2013 17:23
|
|
|
McMadCow posted:It's the way I print. Yes I burn the borders to vignette the scene, but the blacks in my printing come from using split filters, which means I can get the blacks as bold as I want while essentially still keeping the whites as they are. I'm still very much learning when it comes to printing, it always impresses me how much you can push the blacks while keeping detail in the highlights with split filtering.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2013 00:31
|
|
|
 Meglitsch Poles & Log Furniture by Isaac Sachs, on Flickr A funny story about this one; I was driving past this on my way to Prineville, Oregon. The light wasn't right, so I figured I'd take a picture on my way back. On the way back, I missed my turn and ended up having to turn around in a trailer park just past it on the highway. I had just taken this picture when a guy on an ATV zooms up, locks up his brakes, and hops off, yelling at me that I should apologize. It turns out that part of the patch of dirt I'd turned around in was his front yard. Even though there'd been no kids or dogs around, I decided I should defuse the situation doing what he wanted, which was to apologize for endangering his kids and dog by driving across a corner of his "lawn." He insisted on shaking my hand, then hopped back on his ATV and zoomed off back down the highway.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2013 03:07
|
|
|
 
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2013 05:32
|
|
|
MrBlandAverage posted:I used the Scheimpflug principle to increase the apparent depth of field in these photographs. Can you please explain the movements of your lens and what you hoped to achieve with it? I still don't understand how to apply Scheimpflug in practice.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2013 07:53
|
|
|
Fragrag posted:Can you please explain the movements of your lens and what you hoped to achieve with it? I still don't understand how to apply Scheimpflug in practice. Don't apply it to XKCD Larper IRL unless you like getting your balls crushed. That is tip #1.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2013 07:57
|
|
|
Fragrag posted:Can you please explain the movements of your lens and what you hoped to achieve with it? I still don't understand how to apply Scheimpflug in practice. I found this image to be rather informative: 
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2013 08:12
|
|
|
Well, if we are actually gonna be helpful then this page is great. http://www.toyoview.com/LargeFrmtTech/lgformat.html Digging up a copy of Ansel Adams "The Camera" might also be benificial.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2013 08:21
|
|
|
Fragrag posted:Can you please explain the movements of your lens and what you hoped to achieve with it? I still don't understand how to apply Scheimpflug in practice. I tilted the lens forward a few degrees in each case. In the first one, as a result, the plane of focus went through both the foreground and the pile of trees. In the second, closer-up one I also added a touch of swing so that the plane of focus was parallel with the outside of the pile of trees. The image Platystemon posted is illustrative, but I prefer this simplified diagram from Wikipedia because it emphasizes the geometry:  In practice, your lens is generally much, much closer to the image than to the subject, so you need very little movement to change the plane of focus. The longer your lens or the closer your subject, the more movement is needed.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2013 15:55
|
|
|
http://ottawa.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-cameras-camcorders-Speed-Graphic-W0QQAdIdZ475605484 Oh God, should I?
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2013 09:41
|
|
|
aliencowboy posted:http://ottawa.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-cameras-camcorders-Speed-Graphic-W0QQAdIdZ475605484 yea this is a great deal, you could just resell it if you don't like it
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2013 09:43
|
|
|
aliencowboy posted:http://ottawa.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-cameras-camcorders-Speed-Graphic-W0QQAdIdZ475605484 Don’t do it. Get a real LF camera (i.e. one with movements).
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2013 10:19
|
|
|
Speed Graphics are cool, but they are heavy and not as full featured as more expensive 4x5 cameras. That Polaroid back is a #545 and useless since it's for film you can't get anymore. The two wooden holders are junk and the "rare" bag magazine is cheap on ebay. Still $100 is an okay price for the camera and lens, but you could probably get one with a rangefinder for a little more. I doubt you would lose money though if you bought it, there always seems to be people looking for cheap Speeds for projects.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2013 11:44
|
|
|
aliencowboy posted:http://ottawa.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-cameras-camcorders-Speed-Graphic-W0QQAdIdZ475605484
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2013 13:00
|
|
|
If that's a Graflex back gently caress that poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2013 13:16
|
|
|
I have an MPP field camera and it has all the movements. It's actually pretty great, I can't think of any situation where I'd want a monorail camera over it for my work.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2013 17:44
|
|
|
McMadCow posted:I have an MPP field camera and it has all the movements. It's actually pretty great, I can't think of any situation where I'd want a monorail camera over it for my work. Speed Graphics are press cameras with less range of movement than a field camera.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2013 18:15
|
|
|
8th-samurai posted:Speed Graphics are press cameras with less range of movement than a field camera. MPPs are basically British Graphics. Look, there's even a side-mounted rangefinder!  A Graphic is a great first 4x5 camera. Sure, you won't have as much movement as many 4x5 cameras, but there's some, and it's great for getting used to the LF workflow, which is quite a bit different than with smaller formats.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2013 18:26
|
|
|
My bad I thought the MPP was a flatbed field camera.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2013 18:30
|
|
|
I'm still trying to find the top mount range finder plastic for my Crown. I also think I need a new spring for the rangefinder, since the cam refuses to stay in. I also need the master can so I can recalibrate the focus. I figured I'd ask again in case anyone has come across some Graphic parts.
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2013 19:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 18:09 |
|
|
I went up to my in-laws in Vermont and forgot to bring my camera battery. Fortunately I had my Yashica! The Furnace by I Like Natty Light, on Flickr  Calvin and Chloe by I Like Natty Light, on Flickr  Bullwinkle by the tree stump by I Like Natty Light, on Flickr I had a question about the last picture. I've noticed my backgrounds appear to swirl when blurred. Is there any particular reason for this? Is that just the 'bokeh' caused by the leaf shutter? Also, to whoever recommended the betterscanning.com inserts, those are awesome. This was my first chance to use them and it made scanning the negatives so much easier. Krispy Wafer fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Apr 19, 2013 |
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2013 22:08
|
|
