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spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm

img330 by spf3million, on Flickr

dust :negative:

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MrBlandAverage
Jul 2, 2003

GNNAAAARRRR
well hello :getin:

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
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gently caress yeah, one of my all-time never-sell lenses (along with any variation of the SMCP-35mm/6x7-75mm, Nikon 105/2.5, and another few select lenses).

I've never tested it scientifically, but it's sharp enough for me all over right from wide open. It give s nice amount of perspective distortion if you use it up close, it doesn't foreshorten too bad at infinity, the contrast is great, it's difficult to flare, and it uses a reasonable filter size.

I basically have no complaints whatsoever about that lens. It's even very reasonably priced for a high-performance Distagon. It really doesn't get better than this unless you go buy a Mamiya 7 or something. Talk about diminishing returns.

Someday I'd love to try the 75/2.8 asph and the 300 or 400 EDIF. I really ought to sell a bunch of my other crap to get hunting for one. I'd love to see what the modern high-ISO sensors can do for astrophotography.

Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Aug 7, 2013

McMadCow
Jan 19, 2005

With our rifles and grenades and some help from God.

Saint Fu posted:


img330 by spf3million, on Flickr

dust :negative:

What do you mean? Dust exposes black on negative film.

pseudonordic
Aug 31, 2003

The Jack of All Trades

McMadCow posted:

What do you mean? Dust exposes black on negative film.

Dust physically on the negative is black and gets inverted to white.

McMadCow
Jan 19, 2005

With our rifles and grenades and some help from God.

pseudonordic posted:

Dust physically on the negative is black and gets inverted to white.

But it isn't. Dust blocks light and therefore the negative beneath it is clear, which prints as black.
White dust happens on negatives AFTER exposure and blocks the paper/scanner, equalling white.
I mean, I think we're both saying the same thing here, but my point is that if that dust isn't black, why hasn't Saint Fu just cleaned his/her negative or spotted the dust in Photoshop? Why bother telling us?

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
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McMadCow posted:

I mean, I think we're both saying the same thing here, but my point is that if that dust isn't black, why hasn't Saint Fu just cleaned his/her negative or spotted the dust in Photoshop? Why bother telling us?

Whining about an insignificant aspect of your photo that displeases you is a time honored tradition?

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm
Because I tried cleaning the negative and spent a good deal of time with the spot healing brush in PS already.

Paul MaudDib posted:

Whining about an insignificant aspect of your photo that displeases you is a time honored tradition?
actually this

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

McMadCow posted:

But it isn't. Dust blocks light and therefore the negative beneath it is clear, which prints as black.
White dust happens on negatives AFTER exposure and blocks the paper/scanner, equalling white.
I mean, I think we're both saying the same thing here, but my point is that if that dust isn't black, why hasn't Saint Fu just cleaned his/her negative or spotted the dust in Photoshop? Why bother telling us? :smug:

Fixed it for you.



But seriously why does anyone tell anyone on a forum. We should only post pictures and let the pictures tell their own tale, whatever that may be.

Because art.

McMadCow
Jan 19, 2005

With our rifles and grenades and some help from God.

Mr. Despair posted:

But seriously why does anyone tell anyone on a forum. We should only post pictures and let the pictures tell their own tale, whatever that may be.

Not at all, I think stories and statements that accompany pictures can be great. I just don't get why he was complaining about a problem that is 100% fixable but remained unfixed by choice. It gave me the impression that it was misidentified as something that couldn't be corrected (dust during exposure).

Mr. Despair posted:

Because art.

I don't see any boobs in that picture. :colbert:

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm
Thanks McMadCow, you're right I was just being lazy. My complaint was more with regards to diminishing returns with dust removal. I don't have woot-esque patience and thought I had gotten to the point of good-enough but now can't stop seeing the dust I missed. If I were going to pay to have it printed I would give it another round but I don't care that much. Why can't my photos be perfect the second I scan them without any effort on my part?

VomitOnLino
Jun 13, 2005

Sometimes I get lost.

Saint Fu posted:

Thanks McMadCow, you're right I was just being lazy. My complaint was more with regards to diminishing returns with dust removal. I don't have woot-esque patience and thought I had gotten to the point of good-enough but now can't stop seeing the dust I missed. If I were going to pay to have it printed I would give it another round but I don't care that much. Why can't my photos be perfect the second I scan them without any effort on my part?

One neat trick that I found helps at least with the eyestrain part:

1.Copy your layer.
2.Use the Photoshop automatic dust removal thingy on your layer, yes it will butcher fine detail. That's OK.
3.Set the layer mode to difference. Now all the dust (and some fine detail) will glow brightly.
4.Spot away.

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

VomitOnLino posted:

One neat trick that I found helps at least with the eyestrain part:

1.Copy your layer.
2.Use the Photoshop automatic dust removal thingy on your layer, yes it will butcher fine detail. That's OK.
3.Set the layer mode to difference. Now all the dust (and some fine detail) will glow brightly.
4.Spot away.

The newest version of Lightroom has something like this, if you select the heal brush and look at the bottom of the window right above the film strip there is a check box that will highlight dust spots and detail areas.

Genderfluid
Jun 18, 2009

my mom is a slut

swt

Mega Itch
Dec 29, 2006

I can't reach it!
Was at a wedding in Norway recently, here's cake on Porta 400 shot as 800 pushed one stop:



Question: I will be shooting some black & white soon, and I'll be doing the development. I don't have any wetting agent, but I have Tetenal Colortec C41 fixer. Isn't that just the wetting agent? Can I use it to get rid of those nasty water spots that sometimes form because of stray droplets not running off?

(EDIT) And oh, here's one recent one from Flickr...


Wooden Dry-Dock Rail by Cdammen, on Flickr

Mega Itch fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Aug 8, 2013

Spedman
Mar 12, 2010

Kangaroos hate Hasselblads
No don't use the c41 fix, thats similar to the B&W fix that you'll use and needs to be completely rinsed off at the end of the process. What you want is some Kodak photo-flo, you should be able to get that from wherever you get B&W chemicals, its cheap and a bottle lasts for ages.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

TMAX 400

Geylang Serai Market by alkanphel, on Flickr

Provia 100F, converted to b&w

Adam by alkanphel, on Flickr

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

Is this what shooting LF is like guys? Someone please let me know tia.



I can't believe this didn't go in the OP.

Dr. Despair fucked around with this message at 10:31 on Aug 11, 2013

8th-snype
Aug 28, 2005

My office is in the front room of a run-down 12 megapixel sensor but the rent suits me and the landlord doesn't ask many questions.

Dorkroom Short Fiction Champion 2012


Young Orc

Mr. Despair posted:

Is this what shooting LF is like guys? Someone please let me know tia.



I can't believe this didn't go in the OP.

Not unless that blimp is made of money and instead of Johnny Five Aces there is only shame.

Spedman
Mar 12, 2010

Kangaroos hate Hasselblads
A couple of shots from roll I'd forgotten about in a 1920's box camera of mine (6x9 cropped):

In of Mario's by mr_student, on Flickr


Out of Mario's by mr_student, on Flickr

dorkasaurus_rex
Jun 10, 2005

gawrsh do you think any women will be there

Mr. Despair posted:

Is this what shooting LF is like guys? Someone please let me know tia.



I can't believe this didn't go in the OP.

The OP has been updated.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-
My 120 Portra supplies are running critically low and I'm heading to Croatia on holiday in a couple weeks. I'll definitely be getting some more but while I'm at it does anyone have sweet colour film recommendations that I might not have tried yet? I've mainly been using Portra 160 and 400 and Velvia 100 so far, bit of Provia too.

Just waiting for my new lens to show up at the moment.

:whatup:

Spedman
Mar 12, 2010

Kangaroos hate Hasselblads
I'm a little scared to ask how much you put down for that lens?

If you're good at metering you could try some Ektar, it's as finicky as slide film with exposure. I think it was intended to be Kodaks replacement for the Ektachrome films.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-

Spedman posted:

I'm a little scared to ask how much you put down for that lens?

If you're good at metering you could try some Ektar, it's as finicky as slide film with exposure. I think it was intended to be Kodaks replacement for the Ektachrome films.
Saw it on eBay for $155 BiN + $40 postage and snapped it up. I think my metering is not great, I'm just using an app on my phone and the last roll of Velvia I shot half the frames were completely overexposed. Portra gives me a lot more leeway. Ektar does look nice though, seems kinda pale but still nicely saturated from a quick look on flickr.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
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Yeah, just treat it like slide film in terms of metering precision. I figure you have about a half stop of real wiggle room, one stop overexposed is probably OK, beyond that you really take your chances. It gets really saturated, everything gets an earthy cast, and the colors tend to go neon (laser yellow, cyan blue, fire engine red).

On the other hand if you're bemoaning the death of Ultra Color films then it's the stock for you. Set your meter at 50 or 40 and go to town.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-
I got a bunch of expired Portra 400UC from a guy who was moving to digital and I like it, so perhaps I'll give it a shot.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm

VomitOnLino posted:

One neat trick that I found helps at least with the eyestrain part:

1.Copy your layer.
2.Use the Photoshop automatic dust removal thingy on your layer, yes it will butcher fine detail. That's OK.
3.Set the layer mode to difference. Now all the dust (and some fine detail) will glow brightly.
4.Spot away.
You sir, are a genius.

Chill Callahan
Nov 14, 2012
Polaroid dust & scratch remover also works really well (it also installs as a Photoshop plugin) http://web.archive.org/web/20071015015231/http://www.polaroid.com/service/software/poladsr/pdsr1_0.exe

I'll have to try that difference layer trick, it sounds handy.

voodoorootbeer
Nov 8, 2004

We may have years, we may have hours, but sooner or later we push up flowers.

Spedman posted:

I'm a little scared to ask how much you put down for that lens?

If you're good at metering you could try some Ektar, it's as finicky as slide film with exposure. I think it was intended to be Kodaks replacement for the Ektachrome films.

Nah. I've shot just as much Ektar as Provia, and I've hosed up way more Provia. I tend to go with either sunny 16 or a meter app on my phone with occasional DSLR test shots to meter. It could be that I just tend to get lucky with my Ektar or I shoot the Provia under more challenging conditions but I dunno. If you're even remotely competent, you'll be fine with Ektar.

GobiasIndustries
Dec 14, 2007

Lipstick Apathy
I'd love to start shooting medium or large format film, but I live in an apartment with zero options for home development. My next big purchase I was thinking would be a Pentax 6x7, would I be able to get the film developed anywhere locally (I live in Denver, not sure if major places still work with anything other than 35mm) or is this something I'd need to ship out someplace until I can work on developing my own film rolls?

HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.
Do you have a sink? If so, you're good to go. If not, you've got more important things to think about than photography.

Primo Itch
Nov 4, 2006
I confessed a horrible secret for this account!

GobiasIndustries posted:

I'd love to start shooting medium or large format film, but I live in an apartment with zero options for home development. My next big purchase I was thinking would be a Pentax 6x7, would I be able to get the film developed anywhere locally (I live in Denver, not sure if major places still work with anything other than 35mm) or is this something I'd need to ship out someplace until I can work on developing my own film rolls?

Yeah, plenty of places to develop 120 in C-41 pretty much in any decent-sized city (E-6 not so many but you can probably find). If you're shooting black and white learn to develop at home. I live in an apartment and load the film under three blankets and it all works all right.

GobiasIndustries
Dec 14, 2007

Lipstick Apathy

HPL posted:

Do you have a sink? If so, you're good to go. If not, you've got more important things to think about than photography.

I have a sink, but I also have a roommate who I'm sure will be plenty irritated when I start sealing off the kitchen or the bathroom for large amounts of time to develop crappy landscape photos or such. Unless I'm really missing something, I was under the impression that you needed complete darkness to develop film, and that's really not an option for my living situation right now.

Cassius Belli
May 22, 2010

horny is prohibited

GobiasIndustries posted:

I have a sink, but I also have a roommate who I'm sure will be plenty irritated when I start sealing off the kitchen or the bathroom for large amounts of time to develop crappy landscape photos or such. Unless I'm really missing something, I was under the impression that you needed complete darkness to develop film, and that's really not an option for my living situation right now.

Unless you're doing your own printing, you only really need total darkness for loading film into your tank. The tank should be light-tight and will provide all the darkness you need.

GobiasIndustries
Dec 14, 2007

Lipstick Apathy

Yond Cassius posted:

Unless you're doing your own printing, you only really need total darkness for loading film into your tank. The tank should be light-tight and will provide all the darkness you need.

Good to know; I'll take the film developing questions into the film thread for more fleshed-out answers. Thanks for the replies all, still planning on picking up a 6x7 sometime soon, so it's good to know I have options for external development until I'm good to experiment with film development at home.

Putrid Grin
Sep 16, 2007

I feel like i am accumulating more and more medium format gear, but shoot it less and less as I favor the convenience and inexpensiveness of 35mm film.
I need a kick in the butt, and put my F3 aside for a while, because Ican handle film much better than this now:


scan0252.jpg by Stingray of Doom, on Flickr

... and I want to see what I can do with a 120mm negative.

Spedman
Mar 12, 2010

Kangaroos hate Hasselblads
I tested my new DIY portable darkroom today in possibly the windiest/wettest days we've had all year. The darkroom went well for its first run, it needs some adjustment with the tarp dark cover, where the flap on the tarp needs to be attached with velcro or something. Also I need to get a strong camping light and cover with red cellophane, the 25W lamp wasn't bright enough to really see the developer and collodion pouring properly, hence the plates came out a mess. The resulting images were exposed okay on both aluminium and acrylic, but the pours and light leaks from the poorly shut tent ruined the images.


The darkroom tent.


Now with tarp for darkness.


Inside with all the stinky chemicals.


The terrible plates.

bellows lugosi
Aug 9, 2003

Putrid Grin posted:

... and I want to see what I can do with a 120mm negative.

It's not 120mm.

nielsm
Jun 1, 2009



dukeku posted:

It's not 120mm.

Unless you shoot 6x12 or 9x12.

(The numberings for roll film types have nothing to do with measurements. They are essentially just old Kodak catalog numbers.)

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Putrid Grin
Sep 16, 2007

6cm then?

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