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Sniep posted:not sure. ding ding ding i guess japan's sort of explainable for those who want them DIRECT FROM FACTORY but i think there's something fishy going on with ebay auctions from greece given their nuclear meltdown economic problems. maybe theyre cooking books by selling paper radios or something, i dunno. but it has been consistent for months. high priced BIN's moving out of greece, especially for big ticket rigs
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 02:21 |
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# ? Apr 27, 2024 12:58 |
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Jonny 290 posted:ding ding ding the same thing in my screenshots very weird that they wouldn't buy-it-now them at (universal-radio.com price minus $random-between-10-and-50)
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 02:25 |
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Jonny 290 posted:look at these listings tho and tell me what is wrong touchscreen?
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 03:35 |
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nah the radio is actually great, and it's good that the big manufacturers are experimenting with "non black box with knobs on front" design i love the traditionalism in most classic radios but tbqh there's so much more software in current radios than say my old rigs, there is NO reason to keep the old paradigm of huge boxes with attached controls and knobs. modernize a bit fellas
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 03:40 |
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i found some lil' HTs. don't think they're worth anything, so I'll probably buy 'em to have around
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 04:57 |
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atomicthumbs posted:i found some lil' HTs. don't think they're worth anything, so I'll probably buy 'em to have around they wont be so little once you get the batteries on em!
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 05:00 |
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this reminds me that I have a four-year-old general license and a baofeng that I've never made a contact with i should probably try to fix that, but until i replace the rubber duck doubt poo poo is happening there
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 05:05 |
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atomicthumbs posted:i found some lil' HTs. don't think they're worth anything, so I'll probably buy 'em to have around the u2AT was one of the first 'micro' handhelds. i would recommend you ebay that as some collector beard may dig it. It probably doesn't have a tone board so it'd be of limited use today if that 2SAT has the tone encoder board, i would be willing to buy it off you maybe. its not like rare or anything, not trying to scam u, just an early 90s HT thats built solid - but it's only useful if it has that encoder board as repeaters generally require subaudible tones to access now http://www.icom.co.jp/world/support/download/manual/pdf/IC-2SAT_2SET.pdf page 34 has encoder board instructions - easy to check Sniep posted:they wont be so little once you get the batteries on em! the 2sat series had a small internal battery pack! but yes you're right, with a real battery they're a foot tall
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 14:15 |
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holy poo poo look at this guy's construction skills and attention to detail http://aa7ee.wordpress.com/2011/07/24/the-wbr-a-simple-high-performance-regen-receiver-for-40m-by-n1byt/
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 16:57 |
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Yeah I came across his blog a few months ago, he's definitely OCD and very talented There's an entry on his blog somewhere about a rig he built, but he wasn't happy with some minor detail (like two PCB's didn't join quite square because he didnt cut one of them correctly) so he pulled the whole thing apart and started over. i was totally like I mean I was totally proud of the band-switching board I built for my TenTec 506 that i used drywall tools and a lovely kobalt file for then I saw his blog and felt like a CBer Dijkstra fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Mar 14, 2014 |
# ? Mar 14, 2014 17:13 |
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if any of you guys want to assist on a project, i need some advice. i want to build a crystal radio for the thread buuuuuut i don't have any crystal earphone and feel that it'd be a better demo if we hook up a little speaker. so maybe an audio gain stage. what do you think would work well off the rear end end of a crystal set? maybe a little 2n2222a gain stage and a 2n2222a follower stage?
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 17:58 |
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Jonny 290 posted:holy poo poo look at this guy's construction skills and attention to detail i love Manhattan style and this is really done right
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 17:58 |
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Jonny 290 posted:if any of you guys want to assist on a project, i need some advice. i want to build a crystal radio for the thread buuuuuut i don't have any crystal earphone and feel that it'd be a better demo if we hook up a little speaker. so maybe an audio gain stage. what do you think would work well off the rear end end of a crystal set? maybe a little 2n2222a gain stage and a 2n2222a follower stage? 2n2222a is industry standard (and used in a ton of 80s mil stuff, incidentally), but the most ham radio speaker driver is an lm386 with a lovely electrolytic coupling cap
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 18:50 |
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hahah, yeah, you're right. i actually have a couple lm386's floating around. here's a blogpost so i don't clutter this _too_ much with one way chatter. trying to consolidate links for cheap test gear. i really want to build real radios and need to get something to measure the wiggles a little bit. http://jonny290.tumblr.com/post/79570091729
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 19:10 |
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i dont think we've done tool-chat, what's your essential tools for ham radioing? here's my pro-list that i use around the house and bring for field ops: standard screw driver kit from tiny to huge precision bit driver kit precision, medium and heavy duty wire cutters needle nose pliers set of files for roughing up surfaces for soldering scalpels with spare blades box cutter with spare blades monkey wrench, small and medium a little bag of basic first aid stuff including burn-gel tweezer kit magic marker pens carpenters ruler with cm and inches digital calipers with 0.01 mm accuracy (often left behind) leatherman wave or better with bit-kit for serious field work multi tool (small hammer) scissor type wire cutters (only proper way to strip and cut coax, probably my most used tool) weller wpa 2 butane soldering iron/hot air gun - the best thing ever for soldering UHF connectors outside, useful indoors too cheap electric 60w iron with thermostat leaded 63/37 eutectic solder - only kind worth using flux grease solder wick solder pump plastic and brass brushes, the brass brush works to clean the iron tips in the field several small paint brushes for cleaning surfaces with solvents self vulcanizing tape - waterproofing, taping wires to masts, whatever it's the best kind of tape electrical tape - scrub tier but useful sometimes contact cement - perfect for mounting poo poo permanently and for putting inside small shrink tubes to provide sealing -- tends to catch fire though selection of shrink tubes cordless hot glue gun - literally the best thing ever, especially inside larger shrink tubes, doesn't fit in the tool box though spare glue sticks can be used with the butane torch to improvise a glue gun dielectric grease and vaseline, for any kind of outdoor connection lighter, for shrink tubing like a pro DMM with several adapters for high voltage measurement, insulated clamps, thermal probe, magnetic hanger, precision SMD clips and probes 1-2 led flashlights with spare batteries head mounted torch also with spare lithium batteries a couple of miniature soldering stands i made from crocodile clamps and an old hex key a small selection of npn, pnp and mosfet transistors, signal and power diodes, 1k, 1 ohm and 75k resistors, and 1uF ceramic capacitors lots of cable ties notepad and whatever schematics i worked on last pocket oscilloscope and AF signal generator capacitor ESR meter (MESR-100) big bag of UHF connectors, SMA connectors, angles, a few 1W SMA dummy loads, adapters of all kinds for SMA, N, BNC, TNC, UHF and so on a couple of SMA and UHF jumper leads a small loop of single stranded wire and cat-5 for TP this all fits in a standard ironside briefcase somehow stuff i need: kapton tape copper tape maybe some sheets of ferrite shielding material for EMC gaskets more sizes of solder isopropanol PTFE+lithium spray tweezer lcr meter for SMD longview fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Mar 14, 2014 |
# ? Mar 14, 2014 19:29 |
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i....i wish i could post a list but it'd look shameful compared to that maybe if mrs goes to work in CO i can stock up. as is i'm capping myself to like $20 fun money a paycheck these days thats the prob, when you have virtually nothing as far as homebrew goes, where do you start. do you buy 10,000 resistors or do you buy a $120 used oscilloscope UGH anyways enough emo. i will suggest my latest ninja trick, using a copper pipe tubing cutter for stripping 0.405" coax. it takes off the jacket like a pro and if you are careful you can do the center conductor's insulation with it too
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 19:55 |
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there's always the problem of knowing where to start, i got most of my initial stuff from my high school (electronics program) when they threw out a bunch of 70s and 80s gear like frequency counters, huge HP scopes and some soldering irons, and piles of resistors also pilfered a whole bunch of stuff from my colleges garbage room, but they seemed to have a policy of never ever throwing anything remotely useful out because their equipment budget was non-existent (using HP 427a multimeters for lab exercises in tyool 2010, they were so far out of cal they couldn't even be zeroed , the lab tech didn't like me because i had standards for what equipment i'd use) my shameful secret is i have no lab power supplies and no good soldering iron, i got a weller power supply with a bad joint somewhere from work, just have to buy the pen and stand the best solution is probably to work somewhere with a lab, i just do all my building after work where i have metcal irons, piles of smd parts and stuff like multi-GHz scopes and spectrum analyzers with tracking generators, plus it's R&D so the parts budget is basically anything under $2000 is a no brainer, just get everything you think you might need isn't this what hacker spaces are for?
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 20:08 |
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talk to me about used oscilloscopes if you can. The usb based ones, i dunno, i don't want a computer attached and i question their input range. plus that's another fuckin' laptop to hook up and oh i pulled out the charger cord and ughhhhh. am I an idiot for looking at used $100 teks on fleabay? there's no local market here.
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 20:18 |
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usb based scopes are universally crap for real time measurement imo i dont trust the triggering either, and the UI is awful, the best use for them is in an instrumentation rack for production testing or something like that the pocket scopes have the worst UI known to man, but the dso quad kind of works, it's better than not having anything when you really need it i never cared for tek scopes personally, but that's just a knob placement thing, my personal favourite scope is my trusty HP 1740a since it's the first one i had, and still have, had to leave it behind when i moved so it's at my parents house waiting for me, proper delay line and 50 ohm input impedance are big pluses the things to watch out for are probably burnt out tubes, and broken hybrid ICs especially in HP scopes, the delay line driver ic in the 1740 for example is some kind of ceramic thing that can never be replaced when it breaks other issues can probably be fixed by a competent technician with fairly standard components
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 20:26 |
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i have a Tek 2247A scope which is the best scope ever because i got it for free i also got a agilent 34401A, which is swapped for an i5 pc that i got for free
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# ? Mar 14, 2014 20:30 |
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this is my all time favourite scope now that i remember it, the philips fluke pm3365 it features a hybrid normal analog and proper digital mode, the 3365 had automatic frequency, rise time etc. markers, no menu system for basic measurement controls and a nice compact size really wish i still got to use that... for DMMs the Agilent (Keysight, ugh) U1272A is a really solid multimeter, batteries last for years unlike some other models and accessories are super cheap, comes with a 1 year cal from the factory and supports serial and bluetooth interfacing e: that pm scope did have a major flaw, the analog knobs on the right were actually analog and the time-base scale and vertical scale knobs had no indentations or out-of-cal lamps like the 1740 has, so it was very easy to do measurements that were way out and not know it if you didn't check those every morning longview fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Mar 14, 2014 |
# ? Mar 14, 2014 20:31 |
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we have an old 300 mhz tek scope at work with a big red "NO CALIBRATION" sticker on it, apparently it's impossible to calibrate analog scope to our current standards the reason i don't like it is that there's no delay line in it (seriously, a high speed CRO with no delay line is borderline useless), so when I tried to trigger off a TTL signal to measure some high speed stuff it couldn't unblank and sweep fast enough (~50 ns) to give a usable trace even when the PRF was about 1 kHz kind of gave up on it after that e: found some pictures of the Hameg scope i found in college though, it mostly works except for the frequency response being pretty non-linear and needing about 30 minutes warm-up time: 20 mhz german design, it has the lovely kind of graticle where it's on a sheet in front of the tube instead of being engraved and a normal lamp for illumination instead of the more high end secondary flood-gun built into the tube the clipping-indicators are a nice touch though, i wish more scopes had those trigger boards and i think the horizontal amp longview fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Mar 14, 2014 |
# ? Mar 14, 2014 20:45 |
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here's like a ballpark of what i'd like to blow if i found an envelope full of money, i've speced 3 different thicknesses i cant think any bigger for now, lol https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AhQx9ppxdfwLdHpqLWdGeWMyQ0Fqbkl1cDdCSzRlWlE&usp=sharing
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# ? Mar 15, 2014 03:18 |
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BK precision scope looks nice, i'd avoid the 1741a since it's got a more finnicky tube with persistance and go for a cheap rigol digital rigol gear in general is supposed to be pretty good wouldn't worry about a high frequency counter, you can usually do measurements at time-bases in the 1-20 MHz range and the output frequency of a radio for example will be guaranteed by design, 10 MHz input is always nice to have for connecting external reference timebases, TCXOs are good enough for 99.99% of work and you can always get an FE-5860A atomic reference for cheap if you need even greater absolute accuracy an SDR dongle can do some of the work of a spectrum analyzer if you're aware of the limitations, it can measure frequency if you get the ppm offset right and can measure active LOs and such a good white noise generator and a SDR dongle could substitute a tracking generator with some pre-calibration work i actually have a few of that exact mainframe and spectrum analyzer except all mine have completely worn out tubes, it can be connected to a scope in XY mode to get a working display, but they're not exactly precision frequency references, drift is atrocious (30-90 minutes to warm up and give a visually stable display), very interesting to have around though, sensitive enough to be connected to an antenna and see signals. if you're not familiar with spectrum analyzers already it's a steep learning curve though if you're going for a nice LCR meter, get the it can also do ESR for fault finding, but the MESR-100 from ebay does a pretty good job at finding electrolytics that have gone i have one of the DDS module things, it's pretty good but very clearly distorted at higher frequencies, never had much use for it but for developing radio receivers it could potentially be very useful solder station: hakko fx-888 is supposed to be good, i like weller 80w stations myself since hakko is hard to get in europe, metcal/oki inductive heater stations are god tier professional J-STD-001 Class 3 production grade soldering tools, especially with the heated tweezers for SMD (can unsolder full 18 pin ICs in one go with the big tips) as for parts, just get a big baggie of 2n2222a and 2907s i like the lm358/258 for general low frequency medium precision opamp work, runs off a single supply too and it's one of the opamps that works well as a comparator too, but get some comparators just in case obviously lm7805 and 7812s, but also consider ebay special lm-317 regulator boards, it's just two capacitors, the regulator and a trimpot on a little single sided board but it saves a lot of time and for non-radio stuff, get the adjustable buck/boost converter modules for $3 a piece, they work pretty well except the rectifier diodes are under-specced so watch the current on the output. and never design your own switcher, it's a world of pain ebay will sell you packs of various resistors, capacitors for very little money so start with that, get some 12V LEDs too, get small and large pieces of veroboard, and large and larger pieces of two-sided copper coated breadboard, and a good pcb-cutting bit for the dremel to cut tracks coax: get 100 meters of RG-58 and keep it around, then get some RG-316 for internal wiring (316 is the teflon version of 174, so it won't melt when soldering it), and why not get a reel of RG-174, it's good enough for HF work at medium power ebay sellers will also sell you pre-made patch cables, cheap SMA and N adapters, rolls of otherwise expensive coax like RG-402 (perfect for soldering to PCBs) and various mounting brackets etc. get the SMA connectors designed to fit onto 1.6mm breadboard, those things are like magic just get all this poo poo on ebay if you can, it's dirt cheap
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# ? Mar 15, 2014 10:02 |
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found a picture of those soldering stands i made, they have a very good utility/size rating, especially for splicing cables
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# ? Mar 15, 2014 10:22 |
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aha those stands are smart! i like it. i did a half dozen PL-259's on RG8 last weekend (shut up) and found that my new-to-me drill press had a perfect little V-groove on the table that made for a perfect coax stand. good call on the SDR stuff, really in my mind a spec-an is most useful paired with a sweep generator for tweaking filters and stuff like that, so they kind of go together in my mind. Yeah, the LCR meter is for little bitty RF coils most likely, so I want to get one that can tell what that little 2-turn 10mm coil is set at. I'm sure after a while I'll kind of get the hang of it, but i'm terrible with winding coils and have no way to measure and welp hakko 888d seems to be the front runner on the hand-burner front, yes. I am going to definitely hit shenzhen hard for the components, I'm not even going to stock 1/4 watt carbon resistors because i can get 1% metal films for less than a penny apiece. their deals are amazing if you can wait a month. I haven't drilled down to find the cap packages I want, but that shouldn't be too tough. i want to make sure to buy a few specialty packs too, like i never have tantalums or other 'nice' caps around so that would be a good idea, i think. same story on the coax and SMA's - buy them from china on the supercheap. i am going to buy roughly 1 (one) football field's area of double sided PCB. as far as actives go, I want to make sure to put together a nice box that has some vhf/uhf transistors and a fistful of stuff like MMIC's and Mini-Circuits mixers. some NE602's, maybe some FM chips, just for piddly one-off stuff. all your suggestions are def good on the parts front, just picking out a few things that I've always said "lol who the gently caress has one of those 'lying around'". i want to be that guy ramble ramble
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# ? Mar 15, 2014 17:06 |
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so i got triggered and made a big old radiopolitik post in the diy thread and wanted to crosspost it ---- I've done a 180 regarding my opinion of the ham culture/scene/whatever. Note that I'm going to overly generalize the situation as 'younger = more pleasant' but I fully recognize that there are older hams that are great fellows, and I am not talking about those guys. I've been in the game for about 22 years now and can tell you that the average population on the bands seemed to be aging for a long time. I too got the dudes-with-oxygen-tanks-ignoring-you treatment when I went to a couple local club meetings to introduce myself before I went there to take my General/Extra. Interaction was pretty much inversely proportional to age difference, and I was the youngest one there by roughly 25-30 years. So up until a couple years ago I had a very grim, "gently caress, ham radio is dying and there's nothing to be done because INTERNET AND CELL PHONES" attitude. But then, I got to thinking. If we let the old beards scare everybody off, we're going to lose the spectrum when they die, because there aren't going to be any hams. And there is so much spectrum available to us that it is not really a reason for good interested people to stay off the radio. I have lately started a big "IF YOU'RE INTO IT JUST GET YOUR LICENSE AND START TALKIN DONT WORRY ABOUT THE OLD CODGERS" self-attitude-change. If we get fresh faces on the radio, guess what, interested people will hear fresh faces and good conversation instead of goutchat and a bunch of guys using $500 wattmeters to make sure their $5000 amplifier is properly juicing up the signal from their $8000 radio to broadcast their two cents about Obama. RTL-SDR sticks. Baofeng handhelds. Interesting and easy kits to complete. Any obscure RF part or connector from Shenzhen to your door via ebay in two weeks. Perfect double-sided finished PCB's via OSHPark. The new DTV transmitter on the ISS. PSK31 on a cheap Android device. Fistfuls of CubeSats going up every couple of months. There's eight reasons why ham radio is better today than ten years ago. I would suggest that a good approach to freshening the voices on the air is to come from it from a _non_ ham-radio-centric attitude. Don't hang out with a bunch of guys that talk on ham radios. Hang out with your cycling or offroad club, or a few guys you like to fish with, or your car buddies. Then figure out how you can work amateur radio into that lifestyle. Get your tickets, get some radios, start talking. Hopefully find a repeater with a receptive owner and join their club. Boom, invaded. Now be good hams. parting shot: Even more than the gap between young and old, we need to make sure to talk about other things on the airwaves besides the obvious. And i'm not talking about obama. I'm talking about radios. The most boring fuckin' thing in the world is to tune into a couple of guys talking about how tweaking their antenna gave them 3 db more gain and now blah blah talked to Belgium blah blah. Talk about your garden, or your car, or hell, even your kids. Obvious a little tech discussion now and then is cool, but when you talk to a new person that you haven't before, bring up something interesting besides RIG HERE IS for twenty minutes.
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# ? Mar 16, 2014 15:24 |
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e: as a mega-noob, i think ur 100% right, gently caress the olds, ham is mega cool esp digital, seems like we're kinda at the beginning of learning what can be done w/ the tech. the old hams were pretty nice to me @ their meeting tho. PuTTY riot fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Mar 16, 2014 |
# ? Mar 16, 2014 15:27 |
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Jonny 290 posted:RTL-SDR sticks. Baofeng handhelds. Interesting and easy kits to complete. Any obscure RF part or connector from Shenzhen to your door via ebay in two weeks. Perfect double-sided finished PCB's via OSHPark. The new DTV transmitter on the ISS. PSK31 on a cheap Android device. Fistfuls of CubeSats going up every couple of months. I world read the heck out of this Gibson novel.
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# ? Mar 16, 2014 20:04 |
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quote:ARRL to FCC: “Grow Light” Ballast Causes HF Interference, Violates Rules
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# ? Mar 16, 2014 20:36 |
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unsurprisingly, the rubber duck on the baofeng sucks balls and the ppl on the repeater could barely hear me. u gotta get all up in the mic also. anyway, wondering what replacement antenna i should get....a bigger rubber duck or a magmount or j pole i could use w/ sdr dongle too. i kinda like those mounts that sit in the hood groove, i think i could do that w/ no drilling or modifications.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 02:22 |
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vehicle mount performance, highest to lowest: solid mount in middle of your roof, fender mount with an L bracket, trunk lip mount, mag mount, glass mount dont bother with the last two mag mounts suck, they have awful performance, they gently caress up your paint, they look terrible, the only upside is that you can stick them on a file cabinet or something. trunk lips are a little better performance-wise but you dont want to be removing the mount a lot, and you gotta install carefully. a fender mount only requires three little holes in the inside lip of the fender and is rock solid, has pretty good grounding, will make you happy. downside: yeah you'll have 3 little holes on the inside of your fender. nobody will care at sale/tradein time. i promise.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 04:37 |
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looks like no drilling for fender mount on a suburban of mine's vintage. http://www.ebay.com/itm/291060974017 http://www.ebay.com/itm/141055523484 and then an actual antenna and also pl-259-->sma adapter and i should be good. and ham plate when renewal is up. even if i don't keep it it'd be cool to have later on in life
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 05:52 |
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KLYSTRON OR DUBSTEP GUN?
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 06:04 |
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has someone in the ham radio world built what would best be described as usenet (the messaging not the ) via mesh networking? I know there's some DSTAR apps but aside from that i'm not aware of things that work without an internet backhaul.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 15:55 |
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Jimmy Carter posted:has someone in the ham radio world built what would best be described as usenet (the messaging not the ) via mesh networking? I know there's some DSTAR apps but aside from that i'm not aware of things that work without an internet backhaul. Of course they do! This is where VHF/UHF packet radio shines. https://www.tapr.org/pr_intro.html Some of them even run this fancy newfangled "TCP/IP" protocol on top. Back in the 90s almost every ham had a packet setup and email address and you could send messages clear across the country via big (56k) backbones, dudes would get really hardcore on it and do cross-band nodes that would use 70cm (or even 900 or 1296 mhz in urban areas) for backhauls and 2 meters for end user access. nowadays it seems that APRS has stolen a lot of the packet radio casuals, but you'd better believe that I will be putting a node (basically a smart BBS that lets you connect to anything the node can hear) up in Denver. I had a setup here, there was literally one other guy on the air and after we said "hey how's it going, this is cool" I kind of fell off. My weekend content: I built a discone for the SDR. It's _really_ ugly and a little off-centered as it was my first time working with the material, but it seems to work really well. The 460 public service band is _blowing up_ at my house now, it does really well around 860 MHz and I got even better signals on all the 940 MHz FM uplinks. Surprisingly, it has pretty good performance at FM broadcast, though I have identified that the local country station is starting to intermod up the band as my antenna gets better and better. I sized it for a lower frequency of 400 MHz so the cone side (and diameter) is about 210 mm, and the disc IIRC is about 150mm. Made it out of aluminum duct flashing, an old mag-mount, a section of fiberglass tent pole. Kind of want to build a prettified version with copper flashing this week, something that would survive outside. Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Mar 17, 2014 |
# ? Mar 17, 2014 16:25 |
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ex-colleague of mine used to get his fidomail via a packet radio service his electronics prof (hardcore greybeard) ran on campus.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 16:56 |
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VA has an extensive packet network with several nodes up on mountains like 4000 feet up: http://www.vden.org/ (there should be a google earth map somewhere on there) there is a weekly packet net on the central bbs I check into sometimes. its more interesting than boring repeater nets, at least.
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 17:37 |
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I'm reading up on diode switches because I want to do thaaaaangs i kind of got them before but this helps a lot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBNIq_d56sA
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 17:54 |
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# ? Apr 27, 2024 12:58 |
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Jonny 290 posted:
I looked up that MMIC you talked about (http://217.34.103.131/pdfs/PSA4-5043+.pdf i assume), there's a guy on eBay who sells a kit for it complete with a bias-tee on-board http://www.ebay.com/itm/121287027578?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 mini circuits confirmed to me that they don't see anything wrong with putting the bias-tee network at the far end of a coax as long as the voltage drop is compensated or DC resistance is less than 0.2 ohms this simplifies design by quite a bit, since that board can be integrated into a small box and a bias-tee can be either built or bought and placed near the SDR dongle, no need to build two sets of tees, just one and that can easily be bought as a connectorized module from mc
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# ? Mar 17, 2014 17:56 |