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So my 2003 SV definitely has rust in the tank as mentioned in the recall, but it's been so long and my city doesn't exactly have a suzuki bike dealership. Can I even get this addressed this far out, or do I just need to deal with it? Chichevache- I'd have wanted to ride, too. I totally understand your motive.
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May 29, 2014 06:27
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Frosty- posted:
Yeah, the hot canadian chick isn't exactly right. Suzuki's are essentially parts bin bikes. Very little about any given model will be model specific. So, finding parts for your bike just means being creative, and doing research, rather than a lack of availability. You most likely have drums. Drums can be re-lined. The forks use standard size forkseals. New fork legs are on the market. The shocks are easily replaced on the aftermarket. The headset bearings are "suzuki standard". The hand controls are the same that are used on every suzuki of the era. You're in relatively good shape. HotCanadianChick posted:No and Yes, respectively. Old bikes (especially metric ones) have much worse parts availability than old cars, mainly due to smaller numbers of them being sold than equivalently old cars. For the 1978 Goldwing I'm rebuilding/cleaning up, most of the parts are no longer available new, the only way to get the majority of parts is to strip them from another bike, or pay through the nose for expensive replica parts. Some parts are available aftermarket, but are often poor quality compared to OEM.
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May 29, 2014 15:55
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What's the official best way to recover a tank slapper? Light touch on the bars, of course, but I could see arguments working for both a. letting off the gas and slowing and b. giving it gas.
LifeSizePotato fucked around with this message at 16:14 on May 29, 2014 |
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May 29, 2014 16:09
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I have always assumed as little input as possible. The bike wants to stay upright and going straight. So as long as you let it work itself out, it should get there.
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May 29, 2014 16:25
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The rear tire on my F800GT is about due for for replacement. I think I'll be going with a different tire, but would prefer not to replace both as the front has plenty of life left. What's the general opinion on running different tires?
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May 29, 2014 16:39
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I've been doing it since forever. Never had any issue as long as they have the same purpose (sport with sport, sport tour with sport tour, etc.)
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May 29, 2014 17:10
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kuffs posted:The rear tire on my F800GT is about due for for replacement. I think I'll be going with a different tire, but would prefer not to replace both as the front has plenty of life left. What's the general opinion on running different tires? Outside of a track day or wildly different tires like a knobby and a slick, I doubt you'll notice anything untoward. The new tire might have different turn in characteristics, which might change again when you replace the front, but if you're replacing a battlax with a pilot road or something, I wouldn't worry about it.
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May 29, 2014 17:13
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I have a pr4 on the front and pilot power on the back. I did over 1k miles this weekend with them and haven't really noticed any issues. Mountain riding and curves, but nothing crazy yet. Is it ok running those two together? I have noticed the pilot power hasn't slipped at all, the pr2 I had before would slip in parking lots sometimes when I was hard on the throttle.
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May 29, 2014 17:24
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Nerobro posted:You're talking about a honda specific problem. Honda is very good at making one (or few) year bike models. They are a great engineering company, and re-engineer nearly every part of a bike for a specific model run. This also means a huge number of honda parts are single year, or short run. I"m sorry you have an old honda. Eh, tell me about it. 78-79 'wings used different side covers to the earlier GL1000s, and apparently the left side cover (the battery cover) is made from Unicorn scrotums and fairy dust because I've yet to see one pop up on ebay in over a month now, but there's all the right side covers you could ever want, all day long. 
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May 29, 2014 20:23
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I thought someone here took a casting of one of those a few years back. Or was that some other relatively unobtanium piece of plastic?
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May 29, 2014 22:18
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LifeSizePotato posted:What's the official best way to recover a tank slapper? Light touch on the bars, of course, but I could see arguments working for both a. letting off the gas and slowing and b. giving it gas. TBH it's "do the opposite of what put you into it", because there's a couple of different conditions that can cause it. Having said that if it's a tankslapper where you've enough time to think "poo poo, a tankslapper, what do I do?" you were probably going to get out of it anyway. (Comedy "nail the throttle to lift the front and give it another go" option does actually work but is inadvisable)
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May 29, 2014 22:35
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I've got a 1983 Honda VF750 Interceptor with newer battery that appears to be overheating. After riding for a bit its hot to the touch, smells like rotten eggs, and makes a whistling noise. What should I be looking for as the cause of the problem? Some voltage regulator? Or is it the battery? Also is this one of those electrical things that is incredibly hard to troubleshoot and should I kill myself now?
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May 30, 2014 00:39
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Probably the R/R, no big deal, easy to troubleshoot with a multimeter. Look up a charging system troubleshooting guide.
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May 30, 2014 00:41
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LifeSizePotato posted:What's the official best way to recover a tank slapper? Light touch on the bars, of course, but I could see arguments working for both a. letting off the gas and slowing and b. giving it gas. http://www.sportrider.com/riding-skills-series-tankslappers I saw a video one time about this that I can't find right now. Basically, lay down on your tank and relax your grip. This video showed a bike that would get speed wobbles at a certain speed, and laying down on the tank would shift enough weight forward to eliminate it completely.
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May 30, 2014 00:52
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Just put your feet out, duh  
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May 30, 2014 01:33
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Made it over the Grapevine and my bike died out of nowhere. It turns on, but it won't start. It clicks and that is it. I think it is a spark plug problem but I don't have the tools to get in there at the moment.  Gonna get it towed and then we will see.
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May 30, 2014 03:39
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Spark plugs rarely fail. I'm going to guess loose battery cable.
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May 30, 2014 03:45
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n8r posted:Spark plugs rarely fail. I'm going to guess loose battery cable. If it was that would it have died while I was riding? Also, I am still getting the bike to turn on, it just isn't turning the engine on. I don't know, I'm a dumb beginner posting from a rock on the side of I5. At least the sun went down.
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May 30, 2014 03:50
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Absolutely, a bad battery or connection will kill your bike/car under load, but still let you turn on low-power accessories. Could also be a bad Generator/RR
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May 30, 2014 04:16
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My buddy said replace the fuse, so I tried that. No luck.
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May 30, 2014 04:26
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I don't think the tow truck is gonna show 
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May 30, 2014 04:26
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You on the Bakersfield side of the grapevine? The stator on my bike died between LA and SF in exactly the same place late last year. Got a tow to powerstride batteries in Bakersfield where the shop owner/manager/whatever - David - lent me two batteries and a quick charger on the faith that I'd send them back when I got to the Bay. I limped the rest of the way home by disconnecting the headlight and swapping out batteries every 50 miles / charging them at truckstops. If the problem is your charging system and you don't want to pay middle-of-nowhere prices for an R/R or stator or whatever, I can't recommend him / Powerstride enough. Tell him the doughy Australian with the streetfightered gixxer sent you, and that I'm still amazed at the generosity of Americans to strangers in need. prukinski fucked around with this message at 05:23 on May 30, 2014 |
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May 30, 2014 05:15
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prukinski posted:You on the Bakersfield side of the grapevine? The stator on my bike died between LA and SF in exactly the same place late last year. Got a tow to powerstride batteries in Bakersfield where the shop owner/manager/whatever - David - lent me two batteries and a quick charger on the faith that I'd send them back when I got to the Bay. I limped the rest of the way home by disconnecting the headlight and swapping out batteries every 50 miles / charging them at truckstops. If the problem is your charging system and you don't want to pay middle-of-nowhere prices for an R/R or stator or whatever, I can't recommend him / Powerstride enough. Yeah, I'm on the Bakersfield side. I dropped my bike in the parking lot of R. Tillery power sports, so we will see how that goes. I'm staying at a literal crack hotel right now, so if I don't get stabbed tomorrow then I'll go find out if my bike was stolen. If my bike is still there then hopefully the mechanic doesn't rob me blind. At least Bakersfield hotels are  friendly.
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May 30, 2014 07:25
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Pro tip for ya, if you're staying in a seedy motel, get a ground floor room and roll your bike inside.
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May 30, 2014 07:28
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nsaP posted:Pro tip for ya, if you're staying in a seedy motel, get a ground floor room and roll your bike inside. Good idea, but I left the bike at the mechanics since I have no
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May 30, 2014 07:39
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Chichevache posted:Yeah, I'm on the Bakersfield side. I dropped my bike in the parking lot of R. Tillery power sports, so we will see how that goes. I'm staying at a literal crack hotel right now, so if I don't get stabbed tomorrow then I'll go find out if my bike was stolen. If my bike is still there then hopefully the mechanic doesn't rob me blind. Pretty sure all the hotels around there are crack hotels. Every place I stopped to juice up the batteries on my limp back to the Bay Area felt like a casting call for some sad satire of underprivileged America. (Unless mullets and meth mouth have become a wealthy affectation, I guess). Ah memories! Good luck not being robbed literally/metaphorically. Let us know what yer mechanic says.
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May 30, 2014 07:45
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I'm finally about to start work on my long neglected GSX. One of the things which will decide if it gets to live a few more seasons is the exhaust bolts. I snapped two bolts and a bolt extractor so the holes are pretty much untappable. Is there any JB Weld-like product that can glue a stud in there? It needs to resist the heat and the force of a gently tightened nut.
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May 30, 2014 08:33
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So the bike shop checked it out and it isn't the spark plug or battery. He couldn't jump it and he showed me the plug. Right now his best guess is that the engine seized. He says he won't know more till he tears it down, but his best guesses are a seized piston, "big end" rod failure, crank bearing, or balance shaft bearing. The dude seems trustworthy to me and so far there's no charge. I'm not sure if I should just have him work on it or if I should bring a truck down from the Bay so I can haul it home.
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May 30, 2014 18:12
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Chichevache posted:So the bike shop checked it out and it isn't the spark plug or battery. He couldn't jump it and he showed me the plug. Right now his best guess is that the engine seized. He says he won't know more till he tears it down, but his best guesses are a seized piston, "big end" rod failure, crank bearing, or balance shaft bearing. The dude seems trustworthy to me and so far there's no charge. I'm not sure if I should just have him work on it or if I should bring a truck down from the Bay so I can haul it home. Lol get the gently caress out of that shop.
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May 30, 2014 18:14
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Baller Witness Bro posted:Lol get the gently caress out of that shop. K. Not that I don't trust you, but what in particular am I missing?
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May 30, 2014 18:27
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It's hard to diagnose from the internet but from your description it seems like he jumped to 'seized motor, let's open'r up" really quickly.
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May 30, 2014 18:29
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Engine seizing would have made some noise, it wouldn't just have died without much fanfare while riding. Also what nsaP said.
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May 30, 2014 18:31
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nsaP posted:It's hard to diagnose from the internet but from your description it seems like he jumped to 'seized motor, let's open'r up" really quickly. Fair enough. He did mess around with it a bit and stuck one of those cool little cameras inside the bike and poo poo. But I can't really afford to do what he's planning anyway, so I guess I'm just hauling it up to the Bay. The engine did die without fanfair, but I also had good earplugs in and the Sena cranked up, so if it was making noise I missed it.
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May 30, 2014 18:34
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Depending upon what bike it is, a used motor would almost definitely be cheaper than rebuilding one that died due to mechanical failure or lack of lubrication. I'd grab a uhaul box truck and drag the carcass home for further diag.
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May 30, 2014 18:39
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Bugdrvr posted:Depending upon what bike it is, a used motor would almost definitely be cheaper than rebuilding one that died due to mechanical failure or lack of lubrication. DRZ400S. I've got a friend with a truck so we will pick it up and haul it back. Probably today
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May 30, 2014 18:43
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Ola posted:I'm finally about to start work on my long neglected GSX. One of the things which will decide if it gets to live a few more seasons is the exhaust bolts. I snapped two bolts and a bolt extractor so the holes are pretty much untappable. Is there any JB Weld-like product that can glue a stud in there? It needs to resist the heat and the force of a gently tightened nut. I'd take it to a machine shop and see how much they would charge to drill the broken studs out and timesert the holes. Alternately buy a used head on eBay and slap that on. There are usually quite a few used, low milage GS700 heads on US eBay. It may be cheaper to go that route than fixing a burned valve and broken studs even when shipping is factored in. As a bonus you can probably get the seller to toss in the 700 cams which are hotter than the 750s. Also, I went back to the fairing on mine so if you want a set if factory round light brackets let me know. Bugdrvr fucked around with this message at 18:48 on May 30, 2014 |
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May 30, 2014 18:46
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Pretty easy to tell if the bike is seized. You can put it into gear and try to push it. If the wheel is locked you're in trouble. Also a seize would have sent you skidding down the road. If you can push it freely in gear that's also a bad sign as that would indicate it has no compression. Probably a good idea to not deal w/ the shop you ended up at if they didn't try to diagnose stuff like that without tearing into it.
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May 30, 2014 18:53
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M42 posted:Engine seizing would have made some noise, it wouldn't just have died without much fanfare while riding. Also what nsaP said. Maybe not - when my MZ seized it came on exactly like running out of fuel, it hesitated, coughed, lost power and then died when I pulled the clutch in. It was only when I tried to kickstart it and nearly went over the handlebars because the lever wouldn't move that I remembered that two-strokes need two-stroke oil... 
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May 30, 2014 18:59
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n8r posted:Pretty easy to tell if the bike is seized. You can put it into gear and try to push it. If the wheel is locked you're in trouble. Also a seize would have sent you skidding down the road. If you can push it freely in gear that's also a bad sign as that would indicate it has no compression. Probably a good idea to not deal w/ the shop you ended up at if they didn't try to diagnose stuff like that without tearing into it. Well it doesn't move when it is in gear unless you hold the clutch in. Is that what you mean? goddamnedtwisto posted:Maybe not - when my MZ seized it came on exactly like running out of fuel, it hesitated, coughed, lost power and then died when I pulled the clutch in. It was only when I tried to kickstart it and nearly went over the handlebars because the lever wouldn't move that I remembered that two-strokes need two-stroke oil... That was how mine died, not with a bang, but with a whimper. 
Chichevache fucked around with this message at 19:05 on May 30, 2014 |
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May 30, 2014 19:02
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Chichevache posted:Well it doesn't move when it is in gear unless you hold the clutch in. Is that what you mean? Thats a good thing.
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May 30, 2014 19:02
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