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Only 8 weekends until September. Assuming you don't want to spend all day every weekend you have 8 half days left. Time's a wastin'
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Jul 11, 2014 03:04
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What up grill light bro: Also I think I have you beat on axles. I'll find out when I go through storage and assemble a spares bin this week.
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Jul 11, 2014 15:32
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Grille lights are the best! I came back from my trip to ND and had the car fully packed to the top.  Only thing I didn't manage to pick up is the 20 ton shop press. Bought one from HF, specifically asked for the silver one (item 60603) and the cashier informed me they no longer sell the orange one and that they're all the silver ones, as I was packing it in the hatch I quickly check what's in the box and lo and behold it's the orange one. I go back in and ask for a silver one, turns out they sold their last one earlier that morning  Oh well, returned this one and off I go. Guess I'll have to bug friends and/or others to get all those bushings for the rear pressed out/in. Also picked up a bunch of goodies for the Baja, but those will be shown at a later date. Today, I figured I'd have an easy day and play with the HID's. First up, have to cut up the shroud to fit into the reflector housing.  I ordered another set of Apollo shrouds that were B-stock off the retrofit source to play with initially, cut a small piece of it to fill in the space on the right. The shroud doesn't extend enough to cover the projector so I had to improvise with the extension.  Lens thrown on, new butyl seal around it.  Bake and press on.  Mounted on the car, using the xB LED amber ring as a daylight running light, should look fairly sharp.  Boom. Light is on. Now I just have to rinse and repeat for the other side.  Only issue is that the other 'nice' shroud I got from TRS has a big black blemish on the front so I can't use it, on the flip side the much cheaper b-stock shroud I got from them earlier is in decent shape and looks decent enough to use. Still haven't heard back from them so hopefully I hear from them soon so I can decide whether to just say screw it and use the b-stock one, or wait for a replacement to arrive.
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Jul 15, 2014 02:32
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When the gold legacy snowflakes have sold, I found that a void had formed in my heart. A gold coloured, wheel shaped hole. I was tormented, like a part of me had just vanished. I must appease the Subaru Gods. I found my victims  Tore off their old damaged coats  Prepared them for what's to come  and turned them into something divine 
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Jul 16, 2014 16:17
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Oh, I like the WRX265 dark grey wheels just as they are. The gold makes it pop though. Grimmspeed gold?
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Jul 16, 2014 16:21
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I liked the dark grey but the finish was quite damaged on two wheels, weird large black spots that didn't want to come off and just sanded straight through. No idea what they actually were. Figured if I'm painting anyway might as well be a little extravagant and I liked the red/gold combo with the legacy snowflakes. Was a toss up between going with a blue tinted gunmetal or the gold, but last second it ended up being the gold. Kinda painted them on a whim yesterday. Surprisingly this is an OEM Ford colour for 09-10, can't figure out which car it could have come off of. Kinda went all out with the paint since I couldn't find anything I liked at CT/Partsource/NAPA so I went to Rondex and got 3 cans of this mixed up and 2 cans of 2k clear. Only used 2 cans of paint and 1 of the clear, should hopefully make for a durable finish.
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Jul 16, 2014 16:31
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It's probably Aztec Gold. Good catch, I hadn't thought to root through the OEM colour catalogues to get something on the cheap. Maybe Duplicolor has it too. Our local "OEM paint in spray cans" place is far away and has troublesome hours.
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Jul 16, 2014 16:38
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Hmm, just looked up the paint code and it's GQ which apparently is called Amber Gold - Effect and came on the 09 focus. Can't say I've ever seen one in the wild sporting that colour. Looking though the catalog, and drat does gm have some nice colours, too bad all the ones I see around are the boring colors, why doesn't anyone buy the nice rich colours and instead goes for the drab 50 shades of gray.
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Jul 16, 2014 16:55
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And the old and busted 5 speed is liberated!  Now to be replaced with the much nicer, newer, shinier, sturdier, better, etc etc, STI 6 speed. Next week I'll be picking up the clutch and oh boy, it's going to be a fun one. Going to keep it a surprise for now.  Now I've got another perfectly good clutch kit that I have to find a buyer for.   In the mean time I've been fighting with the back end on this beast, and god drat 11 years of ice/snow/salt have done their magic and holy hell has this been one hell of a teardown. Liberal applications of liquid wrench have been used between times of cursing and threatening to burn it to the ground. Still have a bunch more to take apart and most of the other side, but there's progress and this is probably what I'll be focusing on in the next week.  Oh, and bad news bears about the WRX wheels, one turns out to be bent, guess they didn't all survive the rollover. Haven't decided if I want to find a replacement and paint it to match or just look for a different cool looking set of wheels for winter.
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Jul 27, 2014 20:16
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gently caress Liquid Wrench. Seafoam Deep Creep and (to a lesser extent) PB Blaster are my go-to penetrants these days. I really need to figure out how to get Aerokroil because it sounds like the BFH of penetrating oil.
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Jul 27, 2014 22:36
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Your rear subframe is still installed. My sympathy is depleting. Yes the rear bolts like to seize, but you can get around that with a sawzall and new bolts/bushings. I'll be doing that soon on my wagon and plan to use the whiteline rear adjustable arms and new bolts. I really want to replace my rear subframe though as it is pretty flexy. No holes yet though. Congrats on the 6 speed though. In addition to being able to slam gears like an rear end in a top hat, you also get some BALLER AS gently caress trick diffs.
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Jul 28, 2014 01:03
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Seat Safety Switch posted:gently caress Liquid Wrench. Seafoam Deep Creep and (to a lesser extent) PB Blaster are my go-to penetrants these days. Hmm, I haven't had any issues with liquid wrench, maybe I'm not paying close enough attention. I've tried deep creep before and I liked it. Also have a small unlabeled bottle of red coloured liquid that I've been told is an amazing penetrating oil for the real rear end in a top hat bolts, no clue what it is so I don't want to burn through it too quickly. Slow is Fast posted:Your rear subframe is still installed. My sympathy is depleting. One bolt on the subframe came out really easy, gave me a lot of false hope honestly don't know why I'm being so easy with it, I've got new bushings and an entire rear end from an 05 with hardware so I'll probably just go straight to the cut off wheels when I run into more stubborn bolts. I've heard good things about those Whiteline adjustable arms, but I didn't spring for them, their pretty pricey. Actually Powerflex sent me two sets of the rear subframe bushings so I have one set up for grabs if you're interested. It's going to take a while to get used to a more robust gearbox, going to go easy on the rear end in a top hat behavior for a bit, although YouTube is filled with various examples of abuse of the six speed without them going boom. New clutch can take lots of heat and apparently asks to be abused too, hmm. Still thinking launch control is reserved for when I want to hear it bounce off the rev limited at 4k or for winter shits and giggles.
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Jul 28, 2014 01:34
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I will absolutely take the powerproflex bushings if it makes sense for you and I dollhair and shipping wise.
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Jul 28, 2014 01:37
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Is the unlabeled bottle a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF? It's supposed to be the best poo poo out there.
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Jul 28, 2014 01:44
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Slow is Fast posted:I will absolutely take the powerproflex bushings if it makes sense for you and I dollhair and shipping wise. Yeah, just pm me and we'll work something out. (I think I have pm's anyway) IOwnCalculus posted:Is the unlabeled bottle a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF? It's supposed to be the best poo poo out there. Thought it was at first but the smell is off I think, when it runs out I'll mix some up, I read something a while ago about an atf mix but I forgot what the other part of the mix was.
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Jul 28, 2014 01:53
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Could be Marvel Mystery Oil, that stuff is great, and red. Hard to beat ATF/Acetone mix though, that poo poo will get through anything.
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Jul 28, 2014 04:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:Is the unlabeled bottle a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF? It's supposed to be the best poo poo out there. Seems like it'd be hard to store, though.
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Jul 28, 2014 05:23
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Seat Safety Switch posted:gently caress Liquid Wrench. Seafoam Deep Creep and (to a lesser extent) PB Blaster are my go-to penetrants these days. Aerokroil is good poo poo but LPS KB88 is a really good (and healthier for you to use) penetrant too and easier to find at industrial stores.
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Jul 28, 2014 14:26
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Interrupting Penetrating lubricant chat  for an update!First up, dissection time:  Didn't take long to see carnage   Apparently transfer gears can make a variety of noises when they break since with the Baja 5spd it sounded completely different from what this sounded like. And I think this piece of metal is a major contributor to this failure  I want to say it's from the center diff, but that appears to be fully intact, not entirely sure where this piece of metal came from. Everything else appears to be fine though  So, woopsie, turns out I was wrong and it was just the transfer gears. Oh well, was enough of a motivation to get the 6spd swap going so there's the silver lining. Back at the front of the engine, we have success. Been working on it on and off for quite a while and I finally decided on a combo of drilling it out and cutting off the head. Pain in the rear end but it's off and ready for new seals.  My best guess is that one of these two, specifically the intake cam seal, is the one that's leaking. Most of the oil is on this side and it starts high up so I'm thinking it's a fair guess.  While I was up front I took some artsy shots of random parts   For the rear subframe, I went all out with the 2ft breaker bar and a nice long cheater bar. The rear two subframe bolts came out without too much of a fight, but the front two, drat. Drivers rear I went straight to cutting it off after being unable to turn it at all, took a while but I got the head off. For the rear it just started turning and holy crap, it felt like trying to undo a cross-threaded bolt. Sat beside the car and was rowing with the breaker bar getting it off.  And well, my rowing ended up snapping the bolt after it came out this far  The other part of the bolt is sitting flush in the hole in the body. Yay, time to get some left handed drill bits and start drilling. And it is out!  Now to take it apart the rest of the way, give it some good R&R and decide whether I'm going the powder coat route or the POR15 paint route, refresh all the bushings (some are hilariously shot), and then put it all back together again. While all this junk was happening, I put up a tire rack so I can throw my spare sets somewhere over winter/summer. Yeah I know best case would be to store tires in a climate controlled environment, but  for toting them up and down stares to the back of the basement twice a year for both Veloster and Baja, so garage it is. I'll actually throw them in bags when they're being stored for longer than a few weeks.  As you can see from the picture above, the clear coat on the wheels is failing in spots, particularly on the machine finished face which makes them look like crap. So, in the vein of saving money / doing poo poo myself, I thought I could sand them down and reclear. Haven't finished this wheel yet, but it's a start. Starting with 80grit and working my way up until I get a finish I like, haven't decided if I'm going to like a rougher finish or go for the mirror smooth 2500grit polished look.  Speaking of the Veloster, went out to enjoy the weather and snapped another glamour shot of it. It's going for another dealer visit tomorrow to finally address the wacky GPS issues.  And finishing off this post with some cats, since I hear that the internet loves cats.   Hope you enjoyed the latest installment of my progressing into insanity.
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Jul 31, 2014 04:07
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That piece is likely the snap ring that holds the center diff together. I've seen that a number of times. Those transfer gears are a new one, although I have seen the shaft snapped right off them. Guessing chunks of the snap ring worked their way into them.
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Jul 31, 2014 04:11
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Bajaha posted:For the rear subframe, I went all out with the 2ft breaker bar and a nice long cheater bar. The rear two subframe bolts came out without too much of a fight, but the front two, drat. Drivers rear I went straight to cutting it off after being unable to turn it at all, took a while but I got the head off. For the rear it just started turning and holy crap, it felt like trying to undo a cross-threaded bolt. Sat beside the car and was rowing with the breaker bar getting it off. WHAT UP BROKEN REAR SUBFRAME BOLT BUDDY   That was on my gold car. We solved it with oxy ace and drilling out the thing + tapping it to some huge rear end SAE size. Bonus shot of my rusty subframe:  While it's out, make sure you blow all the crap out from it and get some kind of paint or something on it. Because the thing is boxed up it likes to trap dirt and moisture and rot out after 10 years of salt.
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Jul 31, 2014 14:18
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jamal posted:That piece is likely the snap ring that holds the center diff together. I've seen that a number of times. Those transfer gears are a new one, although I have seen the shaft snapped right off them. Guessing chunks of the snap ring worked their way into them. The noise leading up to this failure did sound like it could be a piece of metal just scrapping against one of the transfer gears which eventually got sucked into them causing the bucking and terrible crunching noises. Mystery solved it looks like. Slow is Fast posted:Bonus shot of my rusty subframe: Yeah, current plan is to strip it by media-blasting or using something like aircraft remover and scrubbing. I've gone through all my various subframe and suspension bits and picked out the best looking ones to use. I'm leaning towards using something like POR-15 to coat it, was thinking powder coating earlier but I've heard mixed reviews on the durability on subframe components. Thoughts? Was also thinking of trying to get ahead of possible future rust and filling in the subframe cavity before painting with some sort of expanding foam, but all I'm finding online is guys trying to stiffen up their frames with "great stuff" and others saying it'll rust it out faster. I swear I remember reading that there's some sort official solution to this but I can't seem to find it. I'll post up pics of the disassembly and maybe an update in the next few days.
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Aug 5, 2014 17:39
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I'd put Fluid Film or a cavity wax inside the subframe way before I put something bubbly that provides a good surface area to trap moisture in. Might be worthwhile trying out the electrolysis stuff, like another goon did recently with a 55-gallon plastic drum... Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Aug 5, 2014 |
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Aug 5, 2014 17:46
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Cavity wax, I think that's what I was trying to remember. Only issue is going to be trying to apply it blindly in the subframe, no experience so no idea how it spreads. The foam idea would be decent if not for the whole moisture trapping property, plus urethane foam apparently loves to burn so any welding and possibly even drilling could give the car a very Italian feel. Trying to find that balance of good vs affordable is tricky business.
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Aug 5, 2014 18:15
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I'm thinking of my subframe in two or three different ways. First, the original lasted 10 years, gently caress it the next one will last that long too before it's an issue. Two, Fluid film it every year before winter, give no fucks. Three, cover the voids with aluminum tape and chassis saver over it so it is now solid and cant have dirt/salt barfed in it all winter. Not sure which route I plan to take, but I'll probably do a rear subframe in the early spring. And I like chassis saver way more than POR15, I've found it to be more durable. I've been using eastwood's internal frame coating for internal rockers and haven't had anything negative to report yet. Slow is Fast fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Aug 5, 2014 |
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Aug 5, 2014 18:43
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Slow is Fast posted:And I like chassis saver way more than POR15, I've found it to be more durable. I've been using eastwood's internal frame coating for internal rockers and haven't had anything negative to report yet. Yeah, got a quote for powder coating and it's ballparked at $400-$500 for a zinc base and a topcoat, which considering the reports of powerdercoating chipping away on stuff like control arms and whatnot, and the difficulty in repairing the finish on the vehicle (gently caress dropping the subframe every time I want to patch up scrapes or chips) I'm leaning more towards Chassis saver, That internal frame coating seems pretty nifty and affordable too, so I think that's the route I'm taking. Have fun for when you're going to be putting those bushings in! But first some more in-progress pics since everybody likes pictures and hates words. For an 11 year old subframe, it's not that bad. But still, some flaking rust here and there and I've got the 05 bits sitting right there so those are the ones getting the refresh.  Another Organized mess, not all pictured but an all out assault with hammers, breaker bar, cheater bar, electric impact, penetrating fluids and a torch to get things nice and hot.  Also, it's time to unveil the clutch: Competition Clutch Stage 3 Segmented Ceramic Clutch - rated for 500wtq. Should leave a little room for future upgrades, and hopefully isn't a terrible chore to drive around town.  Dirty as hell rear of the motor, gave it a "I don't care" spray down with some no residue cleaner and called it a day.  Fancy brand new ACT Streetlight flywheel  First time going with something other than a full face organic disk, lets see how I like it.  And finally the snazzy pressure plate, just look how thick that thing is.  And we hit a snag. The WRX/non-turbo both use 6 bolts to hold the PP on, the STI uses 9 bolts. I have another set of bolts but there currently MIA as well as the ACT Flywheel, PP, and Clutch from before I went the turbo swap route, my guess is there somewhere cozy together. Either way, I'm waiting until Monday to get these bolts in, so playing with the rear subframe/suspension it is for the rest of the week.
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Aug 7, 2014 17:22
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Bajaha posted:Fancy brand new ACT Streetlight flywheel
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Aug 7, 2014 21:35
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The factory service manual doesn't call for replacing the bolts. They're not torqued anywhere close to yeild, 75Nm(55.3ft-lb) is the spec, and the threads were thoroughly cleaned. Don't think I've heard anyone replacing with fresh bolts in a Subaru application unless the old ones were overtorqued or damaged somehow.
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Aug 7, 2014 22:18
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I mean it sounds like you are fine. I'm suprised it didnt call for new bolts. They weren't really lovely before you cleaned them yea?
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Aug 7, 2014 22:57
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When I did the clutch on my 2.5TS, I literally just did the clutch and nothing else at all and it feels great - you should be fine.
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Aug 7, 2014 22:59
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REGARDING REUSING SUBARU CLUTCH ASSEMBLY BOLTS..... I am going to say a lot of do as I say not as I do poo poo here..... The RS has had three clutch assemblies on it. Using the origional pressure plate and flywheel bolts. It gets worse. Friend had a performance shop and they impacted all the flywheel bolts and never had an issue.... So I have always impacted in the flywheel on then torqued the PP bolts. This is hacky as poo poo. I haven't had an issue yet but you should still probably buy new bolts and torque everything to spec. My wagon has had the clutch assembly moved over with the donor trans. I impacted on the flywheel and torqued the PP. No issue. You can get away with it, but you probably shouldn't. If Kastein reads this he's probably going to shoot me.... do as I say not as I do....
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Aug 8, 2014 02:43
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On any kind of semi-perfomance engine it's cheap insurance. I've seen too many disaster photos from flywheel bolts failing so maybe I am paranoid. That said, I'm not a big Subaru guy (even though I own a cvt legacy) but if they don't call for it they don't I guess.
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Aug 8, 2014 05:33
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You don't need new flywheel bolts, but I do like to get new ones if it's a car I know the flywheel has been off a couple of times. Also, loctite plus torque wrench on the flywheel and pressure plate bolts. I've seen them break and come loose and it's not pretty.
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Aug 8, 2014 07:12
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I had a 6 puck ceramic clutch in my GTI. It definitely takes some getting used to. Its gonna grab really quickly, most of my friends didnt like to drive it but I loved it.
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Aug 8, 2014 14:45
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jamal posted:You don't need new flywheel bolts, but I do like to get new ones if it's a car I know the flywheel has been off a couple of times. Also, loctite plus torque wrench on the flywheel and pressure plate bolts. I've seen them break and come loose and it's not pretty. Yeah, I'll go with the suggestions in this thread and just replace them outright then, better to not try to save $30-40 today just to have to end up spending $2k-3k tomorrow. I'm waiting on the pressure plate bolts anyway so I'll call the dealer parts department when they're open and tack on the rest of the bolts to the order. As for locktight, I've been using the medium threadlock one, pictured here in the blue labeled bottle, and I'm pretty religious when it comes to using torque wrenches on anything engine related or important suspension bits, stuff like ground wire bolts and non-critical stuff gets the ol' good'n'tight torque spec. And I'm hoping I like the clutch, It being a challenge is nice since it makes it that much more rewarding when you get it perfect. Friend of mine keeps joking that I keep switching things up to keep him on his toes whenever he takes the Baja for a spin. In other news, picked up some sandblasting equipment from a friend and took his "new to him" 66 AMC Rambler for a cruise for the rest of the night.  I have to say, I can definitely see the appeal of bench seats and lazily cruising around town in old boat. Plus the engine bay has so much room for activities!
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Aug 8, 2014 15:19
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That Rambler is purely delectable. One of my neighbors is selling a coupe one, but it's a nasty shade of red and has a bunch of old-dude-parts-catalogue mods done to it.
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Aug 8, 2014 15:52
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Bajaha posted:Yeah, I'll go with the suggestions in this thread and just replace them outright then, better to not try to save $30-40 today just to have to end up spending $2k-3k tomorrow. I'm waiting on the pressure plate bolts anyway so I'll call the dealer parts department when they're open and tack on the rest of the bolts to the order. As for locktight, I've been using the medium threadlock one, pictured here in the blue labeled bottle, and I'm pretty religious when it comes to using torque wrenches on anything engine related or important suspension bits, stuff like ground wire bolts and non-critical stuff gets the ol' good'n'tight torque spec.  photos in the mechanical failure thread, I think if I ever took a flywheel off again I would just because.
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Aug 8, 2014 17:05
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Time for a progress report! Loaded up the subframe and whatnot, borrowed a sandblaster from a friend, and wen't to another friends garage because he's got a nice big 80/100 gallon compressor.  First time ever sandblasting and holy poo poo, this is nowhere as easy as it looks. Had to do on the hottest day of the week too, temps were up around 32*C and felt like 38*C with the humidity, which is only 100*F for you guys in the US but we're not used to that heat in the frozen north.  After getting part of the subframe done and one or two suspension parts I ran out of blasting medium and with how exhausted I was from the heat and how hard it was trying to keep hydrated, I decided I'd call it a day and just get them professionally sandblasted. Off I went to Winnipeg Sandlbasting (Very creative name, but there's something to say about being nice and direct) and two days later, I pick up my parts  Don't remember this dent in the subframe, but oh well, no idea when it happened or if it was like that when I pulled it off of the 05.   SOOO NICE AND CLEAN! In the mean time, I started installing some of the little parts that aren't difficult to do but take up time like the ALK, master cylinder brace, sway links, etc. There is a lot of crap in the way for this installation, it looks like there is, but really there isn't.  And the timing belt is back on, with the fancy new FU bolts in place, and drat this is a pain in the rear end to do when you don't have the subaru cam holder tool. Definitely a two person job if you value your sanity and don't have the tool.   Also, the list of things wrong with the Altima is growing longer. Both sway links have let go and were making a terrible knocking noise, so after an attempt to unbolt the sway bar which just resulted in the welded on mounting bolts just spinning in their bracket, I took a sawzall and cut it off at the brackets. One step closer to being a rally car.    Where does this fall on the Sockington scale of rust?
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Aug 14, 2014 21:45
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I've run way worse looking swaybars. Just scuff it with a scotchbrite pad and hammer it with self-etch and Rustoleum. Everything else gets a dose of Formula 3000 or Fluid Film. The muffler is hosed though, go get a cherry bomb. You should also be using an impact as the tool of first resort on anything on the underbody of that car and replacing with fresh hardware where possible/justifiable (I know Nissan parts desks are terrible for fasteners).
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Aug 14, 2014 21:46
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| # ? May 25, 2024 06:53 |
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Eh, this nissan isn't long for this world anyway. Between the rust, structural carpet and undercoat, shot bushings, shot suspension, shot clutch, rolling oil change interval, and all the other issues I'm forgetting, we're already looking at replacements. At this point it's more of an experiment to see how much neglect it can take before it gives out for good. I actually did attack it with the impact first, it managed to snap off the rusted weld instead of the rusted on nut, haha. The sway bar is in pretty decent shape for a rust bucket, but I only had one spare good sway link from the 05 Baja that might have worked, and the sawzall was nearby, so... Actually, seeing how much hail Calgary has got recently, was thinking it might be worth it to find a nice hail damaged car for not too much and just fly out there and drive back over a weekend. Any sort of online auction's out west like the SGI auction, or just in person auctions and Kijiji?
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Aug 14, 2014 22:06
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