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I just go by "does it look like a chocolate malt shake or smell like burning?". I've been doing synthetic every 5k or so.
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Feb 10, 2015 19:48
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I've been trying to track down the terrible gas mileage issue in my 4.7 V8. I recently put in new spark plugs and o2 sensors hoping that would help, but I've still been stuck in the low 11mpg range. I finally got around to swapping the fuel filter this weekend and boom, 14.5mpg average over the past 100 miles of mixed city/highway. It was getting around 17.5mpg all highway and then averaged out over the next couple days. This is of course all going off what the computer is telling me, but it's been surprisingly accurate when I do the math after filling the tank. I'll know the proper mileage after next fill up. The only weird thing is I'm hearing a high pitched whine coming from the filter now. It's a WIX instead of a MOPAR, and some people have been complaining about this issue but it doesn't seem to be hurting performance. If anything, the engine is running much better now. Acceleration feels faster and smoother too. So, change your fuel filters.
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Feb 10, 2015 20:32
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Yup, blowby contaminating the oil during cold starts and idling will change the colour quickly. Doesn't mean anythings wrong. Although avoiding idling will improve your oil life.
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Feb 10, 2015 21:17
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Have it analyzed if you are afraid. Old oil color has more to do with the way it's been maintained over the last 100k miles than it does with the last oil change, unless you went over schedule by a lot. If the engine is clean enough to eat off of on the inside, it'll usually come out pretty light, too. If it's sludged to gently caress from the PO only changing the oil every 10k miles, it's going to look like used diesel oil.
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Feb 10, 2015 21:45
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loving fuse links. Went out for a test drive since it was nice out. Warmed the engine up, did a few laps around the neighborhood, all is well. So I head out onto the main road, make it a 1/4 mile, and pop, fuse link blows. Fortunately I had the spare link and my tools with me. So I swapped it out, started back home, and pop, same link blows again before I even hit 25 mph. Now I'm sitting in a field waiting for a tow truck. Something is very clearly wrong, I just have no idea what. Could I have hosed something up when I did the nutter bypass? It's been the same fuse every time, an 18 gauge one connected to the cabin electrics. I could put a bigger gauge link on but that would probably just result in a fire if I don't find the root cause first.
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Feb 10, 2015 23:18
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Do not put a bigger link in. Something is shorting. Find that something.
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Feb 11, 2015 02:08
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Sorry if this has been beaten to death, but well, its a big thread. What's everyone's opinions on first gen Jeep Libertys? I'm a little nervous because of the whole gas tank thing, but outside of that, are they fairly reliable? I'm looking at a few with about 130k miles for occasional trips and runs (I bus instead of driving to work). Really just to go fishing, hiking and the like. Curious to hear from others who have had them.
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Feb 11, 2015 05:17
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The balljoints like to break in half, their front suspension is a garbage rear end IFS design even ignoring the broken balljoint issues*, they have lovely chrysler automatic transmissions, and wet-sack-of-mismatched-turds 3.7L engines. Not sure what else to say. If you can find a 2.8L CRD one with a manual, I'd consider it. Hell I'd encourage it. Also, Great Beer, do not put a larger fusible link in... it sounds like you need a wiring diagram for your year and to start methodically tracing wires until you find the short circuit that is causing this. I'm not too familiar with old e-carbed YJ interior wiring other than gutting it and rewiring the entire dash from scratch, so sadly I'm probably not of much help here. * full disclosure: I am a solid axle diehard.
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Feb 11, 2015 05:53
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Just buy a WJ instead. One of us, one of us...
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Feb 11, 2015 06:29
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MJ is the only answer.
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Feb 11, 2015 06:52
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kastein posted:Also, Great Beer, do not put a larger fusible link in... it sounds like you need a wiring diagram for your year and to start methodically tracing wires until you find the short circuit that is causing this. I'm not too familiar with old e-carbed YJ interior wiring other than gutting it and rewiring the entire dash from scratch, so sadly I'm probably not of much help here. The only two things I've touched wiring side have been the nutter bypass and a cb radio spliced in on the radios power line, the latter of which was fine for nearly a year. The former was done the day before this started happening so it has to be related. I'm going to (ugh) pull the wiring I did out and start there, as it's the most likely culprit. I seriously doubt the problem is actually in the cabin. That said, I'm not much of an electrician. I've got a wiring diagram in the Chilton's manual but I don't actually know what a short looks like or how to diagnose one. I'm guessing I just look for melty/exposed wire or anything that's touching metal that ought not be?
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Feb 11, 2015 07:00
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God, I just made my 'I hate the PO' maintenance list, and it's an entire page. At least the two codes it's throwing (P0112 and P0705) are easy to troubleshoot, although I'm not looking forward to getting the drat neutral safety switch off the bell housing. Going to be fun once it's warm enough to work outside on my day off.
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Feb 11, 2015 07:20
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Neutral safety switch isn't on the bellhousing. If it is, you've got more serious PO issues than most people. Start without loving with the NSS and measure the resistance on each set of contacts from the harness connector while having someone shift through the gears, it's fine if you do it with the sensor unplugged and the vehicle off. If you have fine readings, you probably just need to adjust it, which is one bolt and clocking it to the right angle, but if you have a garbage reading on one or more positions you need to either clean it out or replace it. Since you're in the rustbelt I bet it's going to turn into "pull it off, it comes off in ten pieces because it's seized onto the shaft, time to order a new one and not drive it till it comes in."
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Feb 11, 2015 07:37
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Got a nice tax return so it's time to dump money into one of our Cherokees. I live in the midwest so I'm not really going to be crawling rocks offroad, more likely dealing with mud or snow on my way to campsites or hunting spots. I was thinking 31x10.5s would probably be a good compromise between daily driving and practical offroad performance, so does anyone know offhand what size lift I should aim for with that size tire? I've looked it up on other forums but I always find conflicting information and people who think LMGTFY is the solution to every question despite the lack of concrete answers. Also, what brands should I look at? I'm not on a shoestring budget and maintaining ride/handling quality is a consideration as well, but I also don't need to convert it to front and rear long arms and tackle Moab or whatever. I've read very good things about Old Man Emu and the price seems reasonable given the glowing reviews, but they also seem to only produce >3" kits and some of the info I've found claims you'd need at least 4" to run 31s without trimming I eats my spinach fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Feb 12, 2015 |
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Feb 11, 2015 07:58
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3"~3.5" should be just right for 31's. 4" might be a little too much unless you really plan on stuffing the tires (doesn't sound like it though.) I'm pretty happy with my 3" Old Man Emu lift and it was perfect with 31 x 10.50's. I've since stretched it to 5" and 33's with adjustable coil over spacers and an extra leaf and extended shackles in the back. The ride was about stock if not more harsh, due to the OME Nitro shocks. Rides much better with Bilstein 5100's. The reason they only produce 3" kits is due to Australian lift laws. Try contacting Dirk at DPGoffroad, he customizes OME kits to specific applications. I think this was closer to 3.75", I had some spacers and my extended shackles in. Near-new 31's for $500 off craigslist.  And now... 
Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 08:28 on Feb 11, 2015 |
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Feb 11, 2015 08:15
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I've read that TJs can run 31" tires with no lift. Is this correct? Does it look ridiculous?
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Feb 11, 2015 16:30
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Safety Dance posted:I've read that TJs can run 31" tires with no lift. Is this correct? Does it look ridiculous? Yes and No. https://www.google.com/search?q=TJ+...2no+lift%22+31s
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Feb 11, 2015 17:06
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TJ guys - if your dash rattles like crazy when you're off-road check this out. If you remove the panel that covers the defroster vents there are four threaded studs underneath. It seems like jeep didn't put nuts on all four of these, maybe just on the Friday jeeps, or maybe the PO left them off. The center two were missing on my jeep, and I saw someone else online report the same two missing. On my 2002 they take size m6x1.0 nuts. The dash bracketry sits on these studs, so a washer and nut will definitely help stops some rattles.
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Feb 11, 2015 17:16
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Safety Dance posted:I've read that TJs can run 31" tires with no lift. Is this correct? Does it look ridiculous? I did just this with the stock rims on my 06 Rubicon. I did not do all 5 (I need to) so ignore the spare. Right after I got my LT265/75R16E1 ( 31.6x10.4R16)  Couple Months later from a different angle. Those are foot prints on the door. Random cats from the apartment complex liked sleeping in my jeep.  And the original 06 Rubicon Wrangler MT/R tires that came with it for comparison. 
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Feb 12, 2015 02:52
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Do those rub at full lock? You're not getting poo poo for flex with that setup.
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Feb 12, 2015 03:05
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It's been real jeep folks, but no longer shall I participate in the wave. 
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Feb 12, 2015 07:16
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kastein posted:Neutral safety switch isn't on the bellhousing. If it is, you've got more serious PO issues than most people. Oh, I expect it is. That's how my repairs go lately.
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Feb 12, 2015 07:34
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You sure you aren't thinking the crankshaft position sensor, which is on the bellhousing (on the top by the driver's side)? It's not too bad to change if you get a bunch of socket extensions, including a few wobble extensions. With a good foot or two of extensions you can get to the bolts on the CPS without dropping the transmission slightly like the factory manual recommends. Make sure to very carefully remove the bolts and insert the new ones (tape the new bolts to the socket) or else you can risk dropping them inside the bellhousing through the hole that the CPS sits inside. It would really ruin your day to drop a bolt in the bellhousing.
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Feb 12, 2015 07:48
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mod sassinator posted:You sure you aren't thinking the crankshaft position sensor, which is on the bellhousing (on the top by the driver's side)? It's not too bad to change if you get a bunch of socket extensions, including a few wobble extensions. With a good foot or two of extensions you can get to the bolts on the CPS without dropping the transmission slightly like the factory manual recommends. Make sure to very carefully remove the bolts and insert the new ones (tape the new bolts to the socket) or else you can risk dropping them inside the bellhousing through the hole that the CPS sits inside. It would really ruin your day to drop a bolt in the bellhousing. In a recent fit of desperation/no-start situation I swapped my CPS out camping a few weeks ago. I had read dread tales of this but with a 12" extension, wobble joint and my friend holding a flashlight we got it done in 15 minutes with no cursing. It was only marginally harder than when I installed it from above with the intake/exhaust manifolds off. There wasn't really ever a risk of dropping the bolts into the bellhousing, because the sensor is in the hole anytime you're loving around with bolts. I might be wrong on this, but even if a bolt did fall in there I think you could just remove the inspection plate and easily recover it?
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Feb 12, 2015 08:24
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Yeah you could probably remove the plate and use a magnet, etc. to get to it. I remember when I did mine I had to take off a plastic shield that went around the sensor, so there was a little danger of dropping thing in. Overall though yeah it was a 15-30 minute job with some extensions. Was not as hard as I had been led to believe either.
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Feb 12, 2015 08:40
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Usually they fly directly into the most impossible to reach spot. There's a little plastic cover that fills most of the hole in so the bolts can't get in there, but it's missing on many jeeps. If you leave it in there and get a spare one off the pile, they usually chill out for a random amount of time and then go all Alien vs Predator on your bellhousing. I've seen bellhousings entirely torn in half in under a second by a CPS bolt left inside. Had heard about it, but a friend showed me one he lost a while ago when I was picking up iForge's new d30 gearset from the guy.
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Feb 12, 2015 16:28
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Ahhh yeah, mine still has the little plate so I didn't realize that not being there was A Thing. It did look like it was held on with adhesive foam or something though.
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Feb 12, 2015 17:54
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How tough is it to pull an engine in a driveway for a 2003 Liberty ?
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Feb 12, 2015 20:32
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jonathan posted:How tough is it to pull an engine in a driveway for a 2003 Liberty ? It comes out the top like most, so it's not that bad. Stuff that needs to be dropped out SUCKS in a driveway and without a lift.
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Feb 12, 2015 22:08
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Co-worker brought his MJ and parked it next to my XJ. Siblings only 1yr apart  
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Feb 12, 2015 23:10
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I accidentally destroyed the bolt/hole thing that mounts my XJ's negative battery cable to the fender. Now I just have a square hole there. It is like zero degrees outside and I needed to finish up for the day so I just sanded off the paint under one of the nearby torx bolts for the fender and mounted it there. It works and is ghetto/temporary. Anyone have any better solutions for a new mounting location? This "solution" is fine with me except for the fact that it blocks the kickstand for my hood, so I had to remove that and well that sucks. 
owls or something fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Feb 12, 2015 |
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Feb 12, 2015 23:46
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Drill a small hole (iirc the stock fastener is 10mm or 3/8 head, which would mean an M6 or 1/4 bolt shank, so I'd go with 1/4) in the fender next to the torn out spot and use a 1/4-20 bolt and nut to clamp it back down. They only did it that way (selftapper on most years, welded/stamped-in square threaded block on others) to make it faster to put together at the factory.
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Feb 12, 2015 23:57
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That sounds too simple. I'll try it when it isn't hand numbing cold outside, thank you. But like, in the mean time my "solution" shouldn't give me any problems other than no kickstand?
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Feb 13, 2015 00:06
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owls or something posted:That sounds too simple. (Though my kickstand still fit)
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Feb 13, 2015 00:48
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Godholio posted:Do those rub at full lock? You're not getting poo poo for flex with that setup. no rub and yeah I get no flex. I haven't taken it off road in years to be honest. I needed to buy new tires and couldn't afford the lift and tires together so got slightly bigger tires with the plan to get a 1.5 lift kit later...then I bought a house.
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Feb 13, 2015 02:14
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owls or something posted:I accidentally destroyed the bolt/hole thing that mounts my XJ's negative battery cable to the fender. Now I just have a square hole there. It is like zero degrees outside and I needed to finish up for the day so I just sanded off the paint under one of the nearby torx bolts for the fender and mounted it there. It works and is ghetto/temporary. When I added another ground to the negative terminal I used a short self-tapping screw and an existing empty hole towards the front above the headlight. Everything fit together snugly. I dunno if it's techinically a good grounding point but meh, it took thirty seconds. 
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Feb 13, 2015 02:43
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That hole wasn't supposed to be empty, there's a bolt through there from the factory - two on top, one on the back facing toward the battery. You got Previous Ownered  (two were broken off or stripped on each side on my red XJ. I can't wait to strip and crush that piece of poo poo.)
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Feb 13, 2015 02:48
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kastein posted:That hole wasn't supposed to be empty, there's a bolt through there from the factory - two on top, one on the back facing toward the battery. You got Previous Ownered Hah, yeah... I kinda wondered at the time if it was just a bit too convenient. Speaking of your XJ what's up with all your Jeeps? Are they still all spread around the East coast waiting to be picked up/in various states of suffering while you cheat with Subaru?
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Feb 13, 2015 03:20
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One of my blue MJs is under 3.5 feet of snow in my yard, waiting. The other one is in NY under a lot of snow. The red XJ is under many feet of snow in Ozmiander's yard right now. I need to get that POS out of there :o The white MJ is about the same. And the 5 ton is under 3 feet of snow as well. Oh and we are due for another foot saturday into sunday.
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Feb 13, 2015 03:44
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| # ? May 12, 2024 07:15 |
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Installed an Amazon special roof basket with an extension today. Seems pretty sturdy but for some reason they decided that some big honkin ubolts with wingnuts should stuck up into the basket. Stupid, but a lot cheaper than the big names. Just gonna throw some rubber caps or valve covers over them and call it a day. Also replaced the TPS in a last ditch effort to not have to clean the NSS because I'm lazy and super tired of getting our vehicles ready for the move. CEL hasn't reappeared and OD is working great. 
Quite A Tool fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Feb 13, 2015 |
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Feb 13, 2015 04:23
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