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One, later seen as Leica glow.
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# ? Apr 16, 2015 21:38 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 23:38 |
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So how do you guys store the souls you have stolen? Networked attached storage? I have an external hard drive, but some nights the moans of the damned keep me up.
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# ? Apr 16, 2015 23:02 |
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Pretty sure kirlian is the proper soul stealing photography technique
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# ? Apr 16, 2015 23:23 |
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VendaGoat posted:So how do you guys store the souls you have stolen? Networked attached storage? I have an external hard drive, but some nights the moans of the damned keep me up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLwKMkdVMnQ
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# ? Apr 16, 2015 23:25 |
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I am going to Iceland sometime soon and there will be lots of midnight sun. I think I'll be needing a graduated ND filter. Any recommendations? I know there are filter holders out there but I'm honestly not sure how much time I'll have to compose a shot since I'll be travelling with people who aren't photographers. Do I really need a filter holder or get I get by with just using a screw on filter? Is a 0.6 ND graduated filter the one I should go for? Should I go for coated or uncoated? There is a 50 dollar difference in price for a tiffen coated 0.6 ND screw on 77mm filter (which is 130 dollars). Also how often does canon go on sale with their refurbished lenses? I am on the hunt for a 85mm f/1.8 lens which I want for some telephoto for distance landscape shooting.
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# ? Apr 17, 2015 01:22 |
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Screw on GNDs will dictate where your horizon will, limiting your composition. With regular filters you get some choice as to where the gradient starts in your composition. I've been using Hi-Tech filters myself and have no complaints about them. I typically use the .6 or .9.
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# ? Apr 19, 2015 22:59 |
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Now I'm shooting on a D7200 compare to a D50, I'm getting quite surprised as to how often the camera will need to hit a pretty high ISO to get exposure even in outdoor environments while in Mexico. I would very rarely go over 800 on the 50, but even with an aperture between 1.8 and 2.8 at shutter 60 (on the 35/1.8) on my new body I'm seeing auto ISO choose between 2500 and my upper limit of 6400 more often than expected. I'm still getting photos I like, but I'm used to being weary whenever I see that sensor hitting 4 figures. Anyone else find this?
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# ? Apr 21, 2015 07:02 |
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EL BROMANCE posted:Now I'm shooting on a D7200 compare to a D50, I'm getting quite surprised as to how often the camera will need to hit a pretty high ISO to get exposure even in outdoor environments while in Mexico. I would very rarely go over 800 on the 50, but even with an aperture between 1.8 and 2.8 at shutter 60 (on the 35/1.8) on my new body I'm seeing auto ISO choose between 2500 and my upper limit of 6400 more often than expected. I'm still getting photos I like, but I'm used to being weary whenever I see that sensor hitting 4 figures. Anyone else find this? Are they outdoor environments at night or something? I feel like with most daytime shots, at an iso as "low" as 400 and shooting at f11 I am usually in low triple digit shutter speed range, so I don't know how your camera is using those settings and not overexposing. F1.8 in the middle of the day should put you in the shutter speed ranges of over 1000.
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# ? Apr 21, 2015 13:33 |
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Yeah it's odd isn't it. Now I'll admit sometimes i overexposure up to a stop just out of personal preference, but still. A lot of the time I'll get triple digit ISOs and that's great, but surprised at the amount of time it goes higher.
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# ? Apr 21, 2015 14:15 |
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EL BROMANCE posted:Now I'm shooting on a D7200 compare to a D50, I'm getting quite surprised as to how often the camera will need to hit a pretty high ISO to get exposure even in outdoor environments while in Mexico. I would very rarely go over 800 on the 50, but even with an aperture between 1.8 and 2.8 at shutter 60 (on the 35/1.8) on my new body I'm seeing auto ISO choose between 2500 and my upper limit of 6400 more often than expected. I'm still getting photos I like, but I'm used to being weary whenever I see that sensor hitting 4 figures. Anyone else find this? Aside from that, you should know what ISO you find acceptable and plug that in the options.
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# ? Apr 21, 2015 17:37 |
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EL BROMANCE posted:Now I'm shooting on a D7200 compare to a D50, I'm getting quite surprised as to how often the camera will need to hit a pretty high ISO to get exposure even in outdoor environments while in Mexico. I would very rarely go over 800 on the 50, but even with an aperture between 1.8 and 2.8 at shutter 60 (on the 35/1.8) on my new body I'm seeing auto ISO choose between 2500 and my upper limit of 6400 more often than expected. I'm still getting photos I like, but I'm used to being weary whenever I see that sensor hitting 4 figures. Anyone else find this? Show us how one of the pictures came out?
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# ? Apr 21, 2015 22:53 |
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Yeah I will do when I'm able to get on a solid internet connection, which won't be for a while. Upload here is about 0.03mbps which isn't ideal. Hotel wifi, eh. I've only looked at them in View NX-i so far, and I'm not sure how well it handles things like noise in its default rendering. They might look a lot different when I upgrade Lightroom and can import natively, but I'm not going to be popular if I spend ages in front of the laptop instead of vacationing. Just to be clear - I'm not complaining at all, just slightly surprised I'm seeing higher ISOs than expected in some situations. In a way I'm quite looking forward to seeing what the output at 6400 is like and whether I've set the limit too high or not.
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# ? Apr 22, 2015 00:12 |
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EL BROMANCE posted:Now I'm shooting on a D7200 compare to a D50, I'm getting quite surprised as to how often the camera will need to hit a pretty high ISO to get exposure even in outdoor environments while in Mexico. I would very rarely go over 800 on the 50, but even with an aperture between 1.8 and 2.8 at shutter 60 (on the 35/1.8) on my new body I'm seeing auto ISO choose between 2500 and my upper limit of 6400 more often than expected. I'm still getting photos I like, but I'm used to being weary whenever I see that sensor hitting 4 figures. Anyone else find this? If that's outside during the day in Mexico you've smashed the Sunny 16 rule to pieces. That sounds like its 10+ stops over exposed, sure you don't have an ND filter on the lens or something like that?
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# ? Apr 22, 2015 02:14 |
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I was in Texas last week and I was shooting at f/16, 1/4000 and ISO 200, so your camera was lying or you had a couple of layers of welding glass on it.
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# ? Apr 22, 2015 02:25 |
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If it's outdoors and sunny 16 conditions, then at 1.8 at 60 and 6400 (the worst case scenario) you are over 13 stops overexposed. At 2.8 at 60 and 2500 (your "best" case scenario), you would only be about 11 stops overexposed. Massive exposure compensation? I was shooting in a cold but sunny day and I was still around 1/125, f8, iso400.
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# ? Apr 22, 2015 02:58 |
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Be careful man i heard you can actually die of exposure!!1
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# ? Apr 22, 2015 03:08 |
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Spedman posted:If that's outside during the day in Mexico you've smashed the Sunny 16 rule to pieces. That sounds like its 10+ stops over exposed, sure you don't have an ND filter on the lens or something like that? I was shooting with a standard polariser but not my ND, and my ND is only 3 stops anyway. I'll bet it's just some weird circumstances where it feels like there's a ton of light to me, but the camera just says otherwise. My friends getting married tomorrow and I'll be doing a ton of photos (the included package only gives him 30 professional ones so I'm taking as many as possible to add to his total) and I'm sure I'll be able to shoot at 100 without a problem. In fact, I'll probably end up having to use the ND as its in such an open location.
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# ? Apr 22, 2015 05:08 |
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EL BROMANCE posted:I was shooting with a standard polariser but not my ND, and my ND is only 3 stops anyway. I'll bet it's just some weird circumstances where it feels like there's a ton of light to me, but the camera just says otherwise. My friends getting married tomorrow and I'll be doing a ton of photos (the included package only gives him 30 professional ones so I'm taking as many as possible to add to his total) and I'm sure I'll be able to shoot at 100 without a problem. In fact, I'll probably end up having to use the ND as its in such an open location. Well the reason why everyone is commenting is that the numbers you gave are so out of whack for an outdoor photograph something must be wrong, and shooting a friends wedding with that camera is pretty worrying. You should be able to shoot in a dark room with 1/60, f/1.8 ISO 2500-6400, I'm sitting in a lab with only dull artificial lighting and getting 1/1000, f/1.8 ISO 2500 on a iPhone light meter. Put the camera in full manual and do some testing before you shoot an important event with it.
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# ? Apr 22, 2015 05:52 |
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EL BROMANCE posted:I was shooting with a standard polariser but not my ND, and my ND is only 3 stops anyway. I'll bet it's just some weird circumstances where it feels like there's a ton of light to me, but the camera just says otherwise. My friends getting married tomorrow and I'll be doing a ton of photos (the included package only gives him 30 professional ones so I'm taking as many as possible to add to his total) and I'm sure I'll be able to shoot at 100 without a problem. In fact, I'll probably end up having to use the ND as its in such an open location. I just bet it's a linear polariser. Which messes with the semisilvered mirror leading to the light path for the metering sensor.
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# ? Apr 22, 2015 06:07 |
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It's just a plain circular polariser, and I don't think there's anything wrong with the camera as I've been using it a fair bit otherwise without any actual problems. I'm so used to being locked to a small ISO range on decade old hardware, if there's any actual problems then I'm guaranteeing it's down to my abilities and not the hardware. With more practise I'd probably have had no issues with getting well exposed shots consistently in good weather... Something I tend to lack in the UK so haven't had much practise! (and yeah, I've been shooting fully manual with Auto ISO set to baseline 100 and max 6400). Maybe I'll mess around more with the priority modes, and see what readings I get then. Also, I need to do more reading and learning wrt EV levels, so I'll use a chart for some shots tomorrow and see how that goes. I keep an eye on my histograms anyway so I'm not blowing out the whites and I'll stop down the ISO by hand if needed (or tell auto to not go above 1600 tomorrow at least). I've plenty of card space so it's no big deal if I take 500+ shots and there's no pressure on me to get the key photos anyway, so I'm just going to enjoy myself. Thanks for the feedback all.
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# ? Apr 22, 2015 06:20 |
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EL BROMANCE posted:It's just a plain circular polariser, and I don't think there's anything wrong with the camera as I've been using it a fair bit otherwise without any actual problems. I'm so used to being locked to a small ISO range on decade old hardware, if there's any actual problems then I'm guaranteeing it's down to my abilities and not the hardware. With more practise I'd probably have had no issues with getting well exposed shots consistently in good weather... Something I tend to lack in the UK so haven't had much practise! (and yeah, I've been shooting fully manual with Auto ISO set to baseline 100 and max 6400). Not that I'm calling you an idiot but it says "circular polariser" on it right? It's not just circular in shape? Also stop using manual and autoISO, just roll around in Av mode and let the camera unfuck itself.
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# ? Apr 22, 2015 06:44 |
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Spedman posted:Put the camera in full manual and do some testing before you shoot an important event with it. And bracket, just in case. In fact, always bracket when shooting important stuff. Unless you have a really loud camera in a quiet room or something.
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# ? Apr 22, 2015 08:38 |
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You're actually looking at your shots, right? A highly overexposed photo is going to be completely obvious when you look at it on the camera's screen. I don't care how busy you are running around in vacationland, a quick glance at your camera after a shot is all it takes to see if the camera (or you) has hosed up. My camera decides to massively overexpose sometimes, I usually notice the slow shutter and then see the all-white screen; a quick turn-it-off-then-turn-it-on solves this. Look at the EXIF for your shots - you've got it in auto-ISO but that doesn't mean it's always going to reach for that 6400 ISO every time. And post some shots here, this is really weird.
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# ? Apr 22, 2015 12:25 |
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8th-snype posted:Not that I'm calling you an idiot but it says "circular polariser" on it right? It's not just circular in shape? Also stop using manual and autoISO, just roll around in Av mode and let the camera unfuck itself. Haha, I understand the presumption that the user is an idiot (and I'm completely sure this is a 'me' thing, not a camera thing), but yes - the ring reads HOYA 52mm CIR-PL Slim. Aren't linear polarisers quite difficult to buy these days? I definitely made sure the little set I picked up before I left was for a CPL though, I always liked using them before and it really helped with the reflections. No Gravitas posted:And bracket, just in case. I have my U2 set for bracketing on Aperture Priority, which I'm sure I'll be using a lot of today. ExecuDork posted:You're actually looking at your shots, right? A highly overexposed photo is going to be completely obvious when you look at it on the camera's screen. I don't care how busy you are running around in vacationland, a quick glance at your camera after a shot is all it takes to see if the camera (or you) has hosed up. My camera decides to massively overexpose sometimes, I usually notice the slow shutter and then see the all-white screen; a quick turn-it-off-then-turn-it-on solves this. Yes, I always give a quick review of the shot/histogram after hitting the shutter (or a quick burst if it's something moving) just to see how it looks to my eye and to see if I can quickly zoom in and confirm I hit focus (as I'm still pretty good at missing it on the wider apertures). I'm trying to upload a screenshot from NX-i that shows the EXIF and the photo, but this connection is having none of it. Even reading/replying to the forums is hard enough, and crunched down to 1MB this shot isn't going anywhere at the moment. But for a description alone - 9am photo, 35mm lens, 1/60s, f/5.6 with +1 EV (can't remember if it was from a previous shot or not). I'm slightly overexposed as I can see it in the histogram, but it's not by a lot - looks like just a bit of the red/yellow. The shot itself looks pretty good, I can see a bit of noise but it's certainly better than I'd get at 1600 with my D50. I double checked in case the flash fired for fill, as I know it's a "feature" of Auto ISO to go higher than expected in order to bring out background detail, but it was off. But a few shots later I have a shot at at 1/60, f/3.2 +0 EV at ISO 1100 and it's within the bounds of the histogram, and it's a better photo anyway so for this example it's absolutely no big deal. No flash, and both were matrix metered. I have Easy ISO enabled too as in M mode all that does is put my ISO reading into my viewfinder, so I'll be keeping an eye on this today. Gut feeling now is a combination of maybe 9am sun not being as bright for the sensor as it is to my eyes, or the vegetation was causing some shade at that particular moment that it didn't like. I have shots from later in the day that are like... f4, 1/250s and ISO 360 and exposed nicely. This is why I'm pretty sure there's no issue with the body at all. Given how good these things are now for pushing exposure in post, I think I'll limit my ISO a stop down and pull things out of the shadows in post. Or bracket within the higher range. It's all about practise and learning, eh.
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# ? Apr 22, 2015 14:29 |
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How do you eliminate "banding" artifacts when shooting? It's in my RAW so it doesn't have anything to do with compression, I don't think.
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# ? Apr 23, 2015 02:43 |
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Subyng posted:How do you eliminate "banding" artifacts when shooting? It's in my RAW so it doesn't have anything to do with compression, I don't think. You shouldn't be getting any... are you using any filters? What software are you using where you're seeing the banding? Or can you see it on the back of your camera? Which body do you have?
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# ? Apr 23, 2015 02:54 |
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I'm seeing it when I import the RAW into Lightroom 5. Shooting with an NEX-5N. It's not major but noticeable when you look at it at 100%. It appears in the dark areas of the photo. When I up the exposure in Lightroom it goes away.
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# ? Apr 23, 2015 02:58 |
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Subyng posted:I'm seeing it when I import the RAW into Lightroom 5. Shooting with an NEX-5N.
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# ? Apr 23, 2015 03:22 |
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I see people complaining about banding on the D7x00 Nikons too, so it just seems something you have to live with unless you're paying serious money. Wedding shoot went great, took 650 photos and camera was acting pretty much exactly how I wanted it to the whole time. Given high sun and no control over the lighting beyond the pop up flash, I'm surprised it went as well as it did. Everyone involved is super happy with the photos that have been sent out, so I'm pretty chuffed.
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# ? Apr 23, 2015 06:08 |
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Ok when I got my Df (shut up) I did notice that, holy poo poo, compared to my D70s - same era as that D50 I believe - was ramping up the ISO pretty quickly. The thing is, it's just programmed to prefer to ramp up the ISO than gently caress with what the meter says about aperture and shutter speed. My advice? When using auto-ISO - which I think everyone should use unless shooting fully manual - just set your maximum in the settings to what your ACTUAL maximum is. If you don't want it to go above 800, gently caress it, tell it that! Your meter will complain then instead of giving you some grainy shot. To be honest I've learned to just let it go. I let it have whatever ISO it wants. If it picks a high one which makes me gag, that means I'VE hosed up. The metering system can give you quite a lot of response you know. Just learn to use the camera. AutoISO is awesome. I love it. I love that we have sensors now where going above 800 isn't a loving problem. But you have to get what that's telling you. And there are menus and options and all sorts of configurations that put things in your viewfinder to let you make that decision. At the end of the day, you can just turn it all off and set a fixed ISO. But why the hell would you? Learn how it works. Set a max you're comfortable with. Work with your meter, or turn it off and fight with your sensor. It's your choice. Pivo fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Apr 23, 2015 |
# ? Apr 23, 2015 06:28 |
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Subyng posted:I'm seeing it when I import the RAW into Lightroom 5. Shooting with an NEX-5N. The banding might also be a problem with your monitor. Are you calibrating it often? Is it a true 8bit IPS panel?
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# ? Apr 23, 2015 06:38 |
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Pivo posted:Ok when I got my Df (shut up) I did notice that, holy poo poo, compared to my D70s - same era as that D50 I believe - was ramping up the ISO pretty quickly. I think that's completely fair. It's a shame I'm shooting in an environment that's literally foreign to me with a camera that's literally a decade newer tech wise than what I'm used to to learn the facets of it, but hey - if you want to get better, quickly, it's definitely never a bad thing to jump in the deep end. 6400 seemed a fairly popular ISO max, so that's where I stuck it. If I limited it to 3200 then I would've ended up with some blurry, unusable shots rather than noisy ones I might get looking pretty good once I'm home and have Lightroom open. Now I'm using a camera that has more than 4 stops of usable ISO, the auto function is definitely going back to remain 'On' for most of the time. Learning when to override it is part of my learning process at the moment.
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# ? Apr 23, 2015 06:48 |
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Auto-ISO for me is something that I use in my User 1 setting on the D7K and coupled with the aperture priority it's the setting I spin the knob to when I know I'm not going to have time to properly compose a shot. Any other time I shoot full manual... I just don't trust it to pick the right shutter speed/ISO all the time.
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# ? Apr 23, 2015 07:20 |
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Auto-ISO? I think you mean Portra 400
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# ? Apr 23, 2015 08:12 |
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Flickr pisses me off with its lack of analytics. When a picture of mine suddenly garners 2500 views overnight instead of just 50-100, which is rather exceptional, and plenty of favs, given I don't whore groups or keywords, I'd kind of like to know where that came from.
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# ? Apr 23, 2015 12:53 |
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Combat Pretzel posted:Flickr pisses me off with its lack of analytics. When a picture of mine suddenly garners 2500 views overnight instead of just 50-100, which is rather exceptional, and plenty of favs, given I don't whore groups or keywords, I'd kind of like to know where that came from. doesn't pro have a referrer log?
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# ? Apr 23, 2015 13:09 |
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Not a pro account. I don't think you can get one anymore? I remember some fuzz in the past about them retiring that. --edit: Googling for it, I find the sign up page, then get greeted by this: quote:Ineligible account
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# ? Apr 23, 2015 13:27 |
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That's pretty dumb and doesn't exactly fill me with confidence that one day Flickr isn't going to be shut down with x days notice.
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# ? Apr 23, 2015 14:57 |
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Yeah, I think they discontinued them as an option last year or whatever, but allowed any that already existed to continue.
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# ? Apr 23, 2015 15:09 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 23:38 |
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I used to hate auto ISO on my Canon 40D because it defaulted to ISO 400 and ramped up from there, which wasn't very far given that the 40D was poo poo at high ISO compared to modern cameras. Now that I've got an A7S, when I'm shooting shows, I use it in shutter priority with auto ISO since the usable ISO range is so ridiculous.
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# ? Apr 23, 2015 16:39 |