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I have the Epson film holders that came with it. Do you use a compressed air duster or one of those rocket blowers?
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Jul 8, 2015 14:51
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aricoarena posted:Do you have film holders? Use a blower, use a blower, use a blower. Put the film in the holders, use a blower, use a brush lightly, use a blower some more. Blower on the holders, on the scanner, keep blowing until you are scanning and then use photoshop/lightroom cause you are still going to have some dust spots. Clean your filthy hovel. 100% Thoogsby posted:I have the Epson film holders that came with it. Do you use a compressed air duster or one of those rocket blowers? Rocket blower.
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Jul 8, 2015 15:14
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Thoogsby posted:I have the Epson film holders that came with it. Do you use a compressed air duster or one of those rocket blowers? I use a rocket blower, get the big one not the cute little spherical one like I did.  I've heard conflicting things about compressed air - its bad it has dirt and oil in it or its fine if you don't tilt the can, or they make special ones for cameras. But really you just don't need that much pressure. If something doesn't come off with the rocket blower or light brushing you should used a lint free disposable lens wipe.If your place is super dusty don't go and try to clean it right before scanning, you will just kick up all the dust and it will settle while you are trying to scan. Clean up a day before. I'm not trying to discourage your questions here but there is also a thread specifically about scanning - http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3307521 aricoarena fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Jul 8, 2015 |
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Jul 8, 2015 16:37
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Once in a while I use some front swing. Sorry by Isaac Sachs, on Flickr
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Jul 9, 2015 03:58
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 Untitled by Simon Chetrit, on FlickrIt was cold. She got a bit red.
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Jul 10, 2015 01:19
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How's the color on these? It's late and I've had 4 beers (the building below was kinda yellow irl)  
BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 07:35 on Jul 10, 2015 |
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Jul 10, 2015 07:29
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Kinda purple in the shadows
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Jul 10, 2015 07:40
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BANME.sh posted:How's the color on these? It's late and I've had 4 beers (the building below was kinda yellow irl) Good enough for me to impulse buy a GW690ii on eBay Ethanfr0me fucked around with this message at 07:45 on Jul 10, 2015 |
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Jul 10, 2015 07:42
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Yeah its sharp as hell These were scanned on a Epson 4870 (c. 2004) using the stock holders.
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Jul 10, 2015 07:45
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:
I wish you hadn't missed the focus cause this is really good.
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Jul 10, 2015 16:27
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365 Nog Hogger posted:I wish you hadn't missed the focus cause this is really good. he can never catch a break here
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Jul 10, 2015 16:55
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Dren posted:I'm thinking about getting into MF. Talk to me about Mamiya 7 w/ 65mm lens as opposed to Pentax 6x7 w/ 75mm lens. From what I can tell the Mamiya is half the weight for twice the price and it's a rangefinder. I like that it's half the weight as I'd be way more inclined to bring it along. The 5 lb 6x7 (with lens) seems a bit heavy. Also, the only place I can seem to find the Mamiya is eBay sellers located in Japan. I've never bought something on eBay from Japan. Are there any unexpected things I should look out for? Besides that are there any questions I should ask in general when buying gear on eBay? Pentax doesn't offer a 65mm lens. The 75mm is a 35mm-equivalent lens (maybe it feels a touch longer than the Pentax-K 35/3.5 due to the aspect ratio, maybe like a 37-38mm equivalent in comparison). The 55mm is a 28mm equivalent (including that aspect ratio correction). The 65mm will be like a 33mm equivalent or something. Is that a FL you are OK with? Either the Pentax 75mm f/4.5 (all models are the same) or the SMCP-67 55/4 (the late model) are excellent lenses, really some of my finest glass. The EDIF long glass is probably the best lineup available, the only competition being the Pentax 645 EDIF lenses. Maybe some of the Zeiss Pentacon lenses get out there too, but they aren't the fancy EDIF glass and stuff. There's a fantastic macro lens (don't do macro MF/LF unless you're a masochist), a fantastic 75mm lens, etc. A downside is that due to the gigantic focal-plane shutter the flash sync is a totally garbage 1/30 unless you're using one of the 2 leaf-shutter lens, which adds an additional level of trouble to the workflow. If you're going to shoot fill-flash then get the Mamiya or a Koni-Omega or something. Overall it's a system that was professional-grade 15 years ago but is now priced at bargain-basement levels. Mamiya 7 lenses were designed in the 90s by Japanese engineers so serious they make the Germans look like jovial good fellows, with the benefit of modern computer-aided design. There are simply no better lenses on the planet, the total amount of resolution is probably equivalent to a decent-to-good 4x5 system (only exceeded by the really good LF lenses from the 90s and on that were also designed with the help of computers). Blisteringly sharp in the center with excellent corner resolution wide open, going to "blisteringly sharp" everywhere a stop down. There are some exquisite wide-angle lenses, the 43mm is incredibly wide with no serious competition except the Hasselblad SWC which is groundglass-only. However, the longest lens that can be rangefinder-focused is 150mm and you probably want to calibrate your rangefinder to your lens even at that point. If you want what Mamiya is offering then there's no parallel, bearing in mind that each of these lenses (and the body as well) will set you back a small fortune. Notice I didn't mention mirror slap on the P67 - it is not a real-world problem next to your ability to handhold the camera. I can handhold my P67 at 1/60 with the 105mm (52mm equivalent) all day just fine, just like I can with a 35mm. The normal 1/ (35mm FL) rule still applies. With the Mamiya you can probably get at least an extra stop or two of handholdability because of the leaf shutter - the only moving parts counteract each other's momentum, the only motion while you shoot is imposed by you. If you're a tiny person then you may have problems physically stabilizing the P67 for a long period of time. You can expect your configuration to weigh at least 5 lbs, more with the grip, less with the WLF. I like the grip, personally. Have you tried a rangefinder before? It is a significantly different feel than shooting a reflex camera. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Jul 11, 2015 |
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Jul 11, 2015 03:00
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A Mamiya 7 is my dream camera, and I own a 500c.
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Jul 11, 2015 03:15
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I can hand hold 1/30 on the Mamiya 7 fairly consistently. Haven't tried it any slow, might do some at 1/15 as a test.
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Jul 11, 2015 03:39
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If you're going to do a lot of portrait or studio work, get the Pentax, otherwise the Mamiya 7 is fantastic. With the 65mm, you should have no problem going down to 1/15 (or 1/8 if you're braced against something).
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Jul 11, 2015 03:55
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I've got a Hasselblad but I'd love to have a Makina 67 camera too.
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Jul 11, 2015 03:55
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Paul MaudDib posted:Pentax doesn't offer a 65mm lens. The 75mm is a 35mm-equivalent lens (maybe it feels a touch longer than the Pentax-K 35/3.5 due to the aspect ratio, maybe like a 37-38mm equivalent in comparison). The 55mm is a 28mm equivalent (including that aspect ratio correction). The 65mm will be like a 33mm equivalent or something. Is that a FL you are OK with? Thanks for this post, very informative. I think I'm dead set on the Mamiya 7 at this point with the defining factor being the weight of the system vs the P67 system. Your comments about the excellence of the Mamiya lenses are reassuring. I haven't used a rangefinder before but I do have an X100T so I've got some idea of what it's like to not look through the lens when I look into the viewfinder, I'm sure it will be fine. It seems like all the MF cameras have tradeoffs. The P67 system does pretty much everything (if you get the leaf shutter lenses) with the tradeoff being weight and size. One of the Mamiya 7 system's tradeoffs is that the 80mm and 65mm lenses close focus at about a meter, which is roughly a 3/4 portrait distance on those lenses. The 150mm lens, while longer, has a longer minimum focus distance to match and actually offers a worse reproduction ratio than the 65mm and 80mm lenses. So the Mamiya 7 system isn't great for headshots. But that's ok, I have other cameras that can take headshots and I don't do much portraiture anyway.
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Jul 11, 2015 04:07
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I bought a pistol grip for my rz67 and now I have a gun that shoots portra 400
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Jul 11, 2015 04:37
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Dren posted:Thanks for this post, very informative. I think I'm dead set on the Mamiya 7 at this point with the defining factor being the weight of the system vs the P67 system. Your comments about the excellence of the Mamiya lenses are reassuring. I haven't used a rangefinder before but I do have an X100T so I've got some idea of what it's like to not look through the lens when I look into the viewfinder, I'm sure it will be fine. Please do try focusing a manual focus rangefinder before you drop $1500 on a rangefinder. It's not quite as easy as pressing the shutter release and seeing the grids go green or looking at a screen with focus peaking. Buy yourself a cheap fixed lens rangefinder and have your shadetree mechanic go over it. My favorite is the Lynx 14E. It's a bit flare-y in strong light due to single coatings but a leaf-shutter f/1.4 rangefinder is pretty magical for low-light shooting. Cost about $75 for a nice one a couple years ago. quote:It seems like all the MF cameras have tradeoffs. The P67 system does pretty much everything (if you get the leaf shutter lenses) with the tradeoff being weight and size. One of the Mamiya 7 system's tradeoffs is that the 80mm and 65mm lenses close focus at about a meter, which is roughly a 3/4 portrait distance on those lenses. The 150mm lens, while longer, has a longer minimum focus distance to match and actually offers a worse reproduction ratio than the 65mm and 80mm lenses. So the Mamiya 7 system isn't great for headshots. But that's ok, I have other cameras that can take headshots and I don't do much portraiture anyway. Pretty much true about the trade-offs. Medium format is a difficult enough engineering problem that there is no magic bullet. There's always tradeoffs between size, lens speed, interchangeable lenses, film backs, camera rigidity, lens shake, reflex viewing, parallax correction, etc. As always you can often do better by throwing money at the problem but then you're usually working yourself into a specialized solution. If you do headshot portraiture on the Mamiya 7 you will pretty much have to figure on cropping down. It is not a good headshot system. Arguably the P67 isn't either, the late 200mm is probably the best option unless you want to use the 135mm macro. I do like the 150mm, it's a nice double-gauss like most 75-85mm fast portrait lenses and behaves exactly the same, but it's not as good and doesn't focus as close as the 200mm. Maybe you could invest in an extension tube or helicoid if you really care about uncropped headshots. The P67 leaf shutter lens is really not that great a system, you need to remember to recock it after every exposure (or else you get a horribly blown-out exposure from the main shutter which you set to 1/8th), nobody services them anymore, and they're slower than the other options. If you're going to be doing a lot of fill flash realize it's Plan B for sure. If you have a specific reason to use it, you will almost certainly be better off putting the money towards a Koni Omega or a Hasselblad or something. I lucked into a 90/2.8 LS when buying a really cheap initial kit and out of all the P67 lenses I've owned it's the one I've used least and am most resistant to pulling off the shelf, full stop. It's not bad, it's just a dumb workaround with better alternatives and it's another couple pounds of dead weight to drag around. The 105/2.4 is faster and better at a longer FL, the 90/2.8 is better at the same 45mm-eqiv FL. Don't do headshots on a 30mm equivalent lens, thanks in advance. Also due to parallax, anything close up or long you will be better off with a SLR camera since you can see through the lens. Conversely, rangefinders do MUCH better at focusing wide-angle lenses or at long distances. You get almost the same precision focusing a 43mm as a 150mm since it's same rangefinder base that's designed to dial in a 50mm. While on an SLR, a 55mm goes from 5 feet to infinity in about 10 degrees of rotation and depth of field opens up as you go out, so it's really hard to dial in precisely. e: If you want to give a rangefinder a try, you can find old Zeiss 35mm/120 folding rangefinders (Ikonta/Contessa/etc) or the Fuji 645 series of fixed-lens rangefinders (and folding, see GS645) pretty cheap nowadays. Or try a Koni Omega, they're super cheap and they have a 60mm which will be similar-ish to your desired 65mm since it's 6x9 vs 6x7. 58mm is the same lens, just measured a bit differently. You can spend a lot if you try but there are also cheap solutions that will at least let you determine whether you like the mechanisms. Again, please don't buy a $1500 camera without having first tried rangefinder focusing. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 08:27 on Jul 11, 2015 |
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Jul 11, 2015 06:50
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So I finally got some time to finish off the modifications I've been making to my DIY 8x10. This is what it looked like previously: The focusing mechanism was an SLR macro rail bolted onto the plywood base. However making it foldable or compact wasn't an option, and I never liked the way the back could flop so easily when mounting film holders. So I wanted to make a field camera version, that I'd be able to carry around fairly easily, and that was a lot more rigid. So I ditched the base with the rail and made a box like arrangement, where the back standard would fold down into its self making a compact secure box. And I made the focusing system myself using a threaded rod, which would spin in place, pushing the threaded front standard holder back and forth accurately and securely. I'm much happier with this arrangement, and hopefully I'll fire off some x-ray film tomorrow sometime:  
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Jul 11, 2015 12:54
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Spedman posted:So I finally got some time to finish off the modifications I've been making to my DIY 8x10. This is what it looked like previously: I don't understand all the poo poo you do sometimes, but it's awesome. Back to Mamiya 7 chat, and for that matter, a lot of the MF cameras... I feel like you'll always be able to get Blads serviced because of how iconic they are. What about Rolleis in 20 years? What about Mamiya 7s? GW690s? Are some of these cameras getting close to becoming unserviceable?
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Jul 11, 2015 13:25
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Spedman posted:So I finally got some time to finish off the modifications I've been making to my DIY 8x10. This is what it looked like previously: Awesome work. Congrats. Why is the base of it so deep? Any plans on varnishing it?
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Jul 11, 2015 15:29
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Helicity posted:I don't understand all the poo poo you do sometimes, but it's awesome. Maybe I am wrong but even Hasselblads aren't the easiest to get serviced. I got mine serviced about a year ago and the only one who I could find that does it is David Odess and it took about a month and a half before I got it back. He does a fantastic job but once he stops doing it, I don't really know who will service them after that. I think the unfortunate reality is that it will be harder and harder to get mf cameras serviced as the years go by.
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Jul 11, 2015 15:32
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Before I bought my gw690 I called a bunch of Fuji authorized service shops and they all told me that they no longer service those, so yeah.
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Jul 11, 2015 16:14
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Beyond toy cameras, is there anyone out there still making medium format film cameras?
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Jul 11, 2015 17:37
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crap nerd posted:Beyond toy cameras, is there anyone out there still making medium format film cameras? I don't think anyone makes a dedicated film camera but AFAIK you can use film backs on cameras by all the big players; Hasselblad, Linhof, Alpa, Rolleiflex etc. Not sure about Mamiya.
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Jul 11, 2015 18:30
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crap nerd posted:Beyond toy cameras, is there anyone out there still making medium format film cameras? I think Fuji GF670 is still in production. It was introduced not too many years ago.
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Jul 11, 2015 18:35
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nielsm posted:I think Fuji GF670 is still in production. It was introduced not too many years ago. No, they discontinued it a year ago unfortunately.
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Jul 11, 2015 18:42
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Got my first rolls back. I think the colors are fine but this is my third scan attempt and it still looks soft to me. Thoogsby fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Jul 12, 2015 |
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Jul 11, 2015 21:55
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what the gently caress posted:Awesome work. Congrats. Why is the base of it so deep? I might rub some bees wax on it, but I won't bother varnishing. The base its self is around 7cm thick, including the 12mm floor, but that's due to the focusing mechanism, front standard and a good amount of the bellows needing to fit in there. When folded down its around 12cm thick, with the other dimensions being 33.5x33.5cm
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Jul 11, 2015 23:30
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Thoogsby posted:Got my first rolls back. I think the colors are fine but this is my third scan attempt and it still looks soft to me. In my experience, scans need (and can tolerate) a lot of sharpening in post. Don't be afraid to be liberal with your method of choice.
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Jul 12, 2015 00:32
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 Relax Time by alkanphel, on Flickr
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Jul 12, 2015 23:14
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those colors 
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Jul 13, 2015 00:44
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So I took a decent photo of the US Signal Corp Graflex Speed Graphic KE-12.  Untitled by Paul Frederiksen, on Flickr
vxsarin fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Jul 13, 2015 |
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Jul 13, 2015 05:29
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That's pretty rad. I like the matte shutter solenoid. Is the lens a Kodak 127mm f/4.7?
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Jul 14, 2015 00:31
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Paul MaudDib posted:That's pretty rad. I like the matte shutter solenoid. Is the lens a Kodak 127mm f/4.7? It's a 127 but not sure if it's kodak.
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Jul 14, 2015 00:34
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I *think* the skin tone might be a bit off on this one. Anyone see anything odd here? Untitled by Simon Chetrit, on Flickr
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Jul 14, 2015 23:22
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The highlights seem rather green to me, like the medallions and the whites of his eyes. And looks like he has weird hair strands off the top of his head again. Or it's scratches.
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Jul 15, 2015 00:10
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alkanphel posted:The highlights seem rather green to me, like the medallions and the whites of his eyes. Seconded. Fluorescent lighting type of color cast. I have hacked a Mamiya Press body to make a "mini" 6x9. took it out for testing and so far so good:  _DSC8444-Edit by Maciej, on Flickr
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Jul 15, 2015 02:55
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 Back in some familiar places testing the new version of the camera, and making some negatives to do some alt printing with. This was the only negative out of 4 that was "scannable", the others just couldn't have anything dug out of the shadows. The detail should come out with the argyrotype printing.
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Jul 18, 2015 13:10
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