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kastein posted:I dunno. I've always just sorta bent them back into shape if I damaged them. I'm just gonna bang em back into shape and run with it. Just wanted to check and see if anyone had any other opinions. Yeah, my passenger side brake dust shield is long since missing due to a PO at some point and the axleshaft shields fell off a while back. The driver side I believe is all factory stuff. Should make the ball joints out rebuild this weekend loads of fun.
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May 19, 2016 20:30
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Make sure they don't rub on the unit bearing inboard seal and you're good to go, basically. It's too bad you couldn't have waited a bit to do the axle ujoints, I like to do the brakes, unit bearings, axle joints, and balljoints all at once. Brakes are somewhat negotiable since they are the first thing off and can be done easily later, but the rest? By the time I've dug in far enough to pull a unit bearing, it's two more nuts and some brute force to do the balljoints and ujoint as well.
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May 19, 2016 21:16
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I just bought a 2016 Chevy Colorado 'Midnight Edition' so I'll be selling my white MJ. I want to build a rally truck and there is no sense in swapping this one to a 2.5 2wd. Gonna sell the white one and buy one thats already slow.
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May 19, 2016 22:01
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kastein posted:Make sure they don't rub on the unit bearing inboard seal and you're good to go, basically. I have a 2nd set of shafts I'm putting new joints in. I plan on doing the ball joints, axle shafts/ujoints, unit bearings and brakes all at the same time.
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May 19, 2016 22:03
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iForge posted:I just bought a 2016 Chevy Colorado 'Midnight Edition' so I'll be selling my white MJ. I want to build a rally truck and there is no sense in swapping this one to a 2.5 2wd. Gonna sell the white one and buy one thats already slow. I am seriously contemplating selling my MJ project (1987 2.5/ax4, plus wrecked 2000 4.0 4wd). The MJ is a southern truck, very straight and rust free (one floorpan has pinhole). I dunno if it's ideal for a rally truck, but it is definitely OEM slow.
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May 19, 2016 22:41
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angryrobots posted:I am seriously contemplating selling my MJ project (1987 2.5/ax4, plus wrecked 2000 4.0 4wd). I don't know what your timeline is, but I have to sell the MJ before I pick up another one. I have 3 vehicles parked outside my apartment and one in storage. I don't have anywhere to put another one right now.
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May 20, 2016 01:33
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I'm in sorta the same boat. Shop is full of stuff, and after deciding on this MJ project, we literally bought a farm and it's taking all of my time. I'd like it gone, but if I don't find a buyer I'll keep you in mind.
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May 20, 2016 02:18
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Came to a stop in my friends XJ and the grille just kinda...fell forward? It was bizarre
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May 20, 2016 15:29
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about 1/3rd of my MJ's new fuse panel is rewired in. So far the panel looks 90% the same as the original which is good to see since the donor was a 1990 XJ. After pouring through the year specific wiring TM and separating the bits of the harness pigtail that have no use to me (TCU wiring, the rear window wiper/heater, the broken dash clock, etc) it doesn't seem so daunting. I'm just hoping the C100 (firewall connector) is still good. It looks like the PO didn't touch it.
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May 20, 2016 15:54
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Top Hats Monthly posted:Came to a stop in my friends XJ and the grille just kinda...fell forward? It was bizarre That's awkward
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May 20, 2016 15:58
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Sandbagger SA posted:about 1/3rd of my MJ's new fuse panel is rewired in. So far the panel looks 90% the same as the original which is good to see since the donor was a 1990 XJ. I can't remember how the starter interlock wiring/NSS delete and reverse light switch stuff are different on 88 5spd vs 88 auto, so be extra careful to not screw yourself over with respect to those. Anything related to TCU power and/or reverse lights and starter wiring that you don't think you need, I would lay aside wrapped in e-tape until you test it. If the starter or reverse lights are DOA afterward, you can figure it out from there.
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May 20, 2016 16:19
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kastein posted:
this is exactly what I did. Who knows- maybe it will be useful for auxiliary wiring later.  this is the original panel. I was able to salvage the flasher relays and the wiper/jamb buzzer wiring (which was untouched). Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 17:17 on May 20, 2016 |
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May 20, 2016 17:04
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Sandbagger SA posted:I had a blue 92 pioneer that looked just like that only in awful shape. I kinda wish I kept it sometimes. This is an external slave right?  Any advice on what I'm in for with the swap? Couple more photos  
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May 21, 2016 00:16
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I finally got my XJ lifted, 2.5 inches with a set of 30s under it. I'm pretty pleased with the configuration - the tires perfectly fit in the wheel wells and it looks pretty rad. Better than that, it rides really loving nice now. I need to get my backbone ordered and on it and I am set.
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May 21, 2016 03:10
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So I got my novak cable shifter installed and switching to 4wd is super smooth now, and it hasn't popped out of 4Lo once. Has anyone had issues with Quadratec? This cable shifter was my first order from them and it came used instead of new. Greasy fingerprints on the instructions, a broken grommet, some screws were still in the nutserts going the wrong way, even the box had someone else's label scraped off and taped over. Not what I was expecting from these guys. In the end I got it all installed correctly though.
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May 21, 2016 03:16
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I did not realize my jeep came with air brakes. https://youtu.be/OIDDlyxesY0 I was vacuuming out the old brake fluid, and it was like this on all four corners. I dumped probably half a big bottle of brake fluid on the rear passenger side alone. The jeep seems to stop okay, pedal isn't spongey and doesn't sink. Any ideas what's going on here?
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May 21, 2016 17:29
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Safety Dance posted:I did not realize my jeep came with air brakes. Possibly air coming in around the bleeder or hose because one of them is loose?
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May 21, 2016 17:34
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You gotta hold those cheap plastic needle things in place by hand to maintain anything resembling a seal. Or use a small piece of (appropriate) hose to fit over the bleeder nozzle on the vehicle and over the needle thing. You'll still see some air probably, because it might be able to get in around the threads of the bleeder itself, but it will be noticeably less.
Godholio fucked around with this message at 18:51 on May 21, 2016 |
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May 21, 2016 18:49
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You know what, it has to be air coming around the threads of the bleeders themselves. I only opened them 1/4 turn, and the bubbles and the fluid both stopped when I closed the bleeders. I had the vacuum cranked kinda high, I guess. Motive power bleeder time? Maybe next time I have $50 kicking around.
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May 21, 2016 19:46
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Safety Dance posted:You know what, it has to be air coming around the threads of the bleeders themselves. I only opened them 1/4 turn, and the bubbles and the fluid both stopped when I closed the bleeders. I had the vacuum cranked kinda high, I guess. Put never seize on the threads. Lots of it. Not only does that stop it from sucking in air when you vacuum bleed but you'll actually be able to bleed again next year....... And my opinion is always to pressure bleed if possible. Motive is a good choice. Mine has served me well.
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May 22, 2016 00:15
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Comanche Update: I completed the fuse panel wiring in the MJ. I went to start it and it wouldn't turn on. It turns out that at some point, the fuseable link wire for the ignition went to poo poo and someone decided to mend it by drawing off a circuit for the headlight delay relay so that it drew power for the ignition from a different fusible link. I replaced the wire and now it starts, the headlamps and the buzzer work. The dash lights aren't working, though for some reason so I'll have to chase that down. edit:  LED DASH BULBS  TACTICAL SANDALS posted:This is an external slave right? That is external slave, yes. It's also more desirable because it's easier to fix if you have any issues with the slave once everything is installed. I believe you'll have to pull the pilot bushing because the BA-10 has a smaller ID bushing than the ext slave AX15. I found using a gear puller and a slide hammer was a breeze. Some people like to monkey gently caress with dowels and grease or pieces of bread. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 02:36 on May 22, 2016 |
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May 22, 2016 00:23
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I had a good rip around one of the local trails today with my kiddo. She had a great time. I discovered that one of my sway bar disconnects wasn't actually bolted on at the top when I removed it. Not sure if it worked its way loose or if its been like that since I bought it from the previous guy  With the new flares and without the rocker guards I'm getting quite a different spray pattern now up the side. 
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May 22, 2016 02:14
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 It drives soooo much nicer now. That's nearly all of the suspension bushings save the two in the front axle. One of the two motor mounts was completely broken and the other one was close. I can now hear a tick/knock from the passenger seat. I am thinking wheel bearings or u-joints.
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May 22, 2016 03:52
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Sandbagger SA posted:
Future Sexxxy
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May 22, 2016 17:13
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Here's a head scratcher for those of you who have done Cherokee/Comanche dash wiring. the male receptacle up top is the C120 connector which links the wiring from the heater resistor to the dash harness. The female one below that is ROUTED THROUGH THE loving HEATER DUCT is the wiring from the dash harness. Some chucklefuck jammed the female bit into the duct so now it's nigh impossible to get out without entirely tearing apart the dash. Thanks PO  Edit: Yesterday, I cleaned out jeep camper for the spring. The spare tire I fitted to it is decidedly larger than the one that came off. WHOOPS!   The Wrangler didn't do much.  The Comanche's Stereo and Heat both work and it is glorious! Neither were functional when I bought the truck from the PO.  I also did some cleaning.  
Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 22:58 on May 22, 2016 |
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May 22, 2016 18:38
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So I'm about to replace some parts in the rear end (99 wj 4.0 ) and I'm doing the rear speed sensors due to diff fluid ruining them. Does anyone here know of any that are garbage and I should avoid please recommend if not I'm just gonna order some Dorman.
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May 23, 2016 04:05
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WELP. It happened. I decided to drive the MJ back to my apartment in Kittery last night. I had finally got the radio fixed and the heater working. The weather was fantastic and it seemed like everything was going great. I got to 5 minutes of where I was going and smoke started pouring out of the heater box. I pulled over and keyed off immediately. Soon fire was shooting out of my heater on the passenger side next to the core. The heater box was packed solid with about 4 lbs of rodent nest material. Cloth, scraps of paper and bits of plastic. It was kindling and the heater box went up like match paper. The fire was out of control before long.  The fire took a dumpy old laptop, a tool box with some Ryobi power tools, my 9mm handgun (luckily unloaded in a case behind the driver's seat) all of my Comanche specific manuals and my favorite jacket.  by the time the fire trucks got to the scene it was a column of smoke and flames. I guess I'm in the market for another truck. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 13:28 on May 23, 2016 |
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May 23, 2016 13:25
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Ohhhh man that sucks! Glad you're OK though... Vehicle fires can be nasty.
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May 23, 2016 13:52
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May 23, 2016 13:54
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Sandbagger SA posted:WELP. 
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May 23, 2016 14:30
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 That one was in pretty good shape, too, aside from the electrical and engine management system. Keep anything you can, hopefully the drivetrain and bed/rear axle/tailgate/gas tank/etc are OK.
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May 23, 2016 15:19
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You're rusting in heaven now, beautiful angel Poor Comanche.
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May 23, 2016 15:42
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Rust in peace gentle Comanche
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May 23, 2016 15:47
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poo poo. That's lousy for so many reasons.
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May 23, 2016 16:06
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On the plus side, this motivated me to buy fire extinguishers for all my cars.
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May 23, 2016 16:15
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Kastein tool box is cursed
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May 23, 2016 16:37
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Astonishing Wang posted:Kastein tool box is cursed This.
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May 23, 2016 16:48
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I'm pretty sure it was the PO's wiring or perhaps pre-existing damage to the harness that was reawakened with the newly repaired fuse panel actually powering the dodgy circuits again. Really blows. ... gently caress. Just thought of something else. Did you check what fuses were in each slot on the new panel you installed? I owned my '88 from 2011 till this summer without ever checking on the wiring or fuses and then discovered it had something like half a dozen 40-amp fuses jammed into 5, 7.5, 10, 15, and 20 amp slots by the idiot PO. Fortunately it only melted a bunch of my harness rather than setting the truck on fire though. ... I'm going to pull the fuses for all non-critical circuits when I get home, until I have a chance to look over the wiring more closely. That's the second time I've seen a dash fire from dodgy electricals total an MJ and I don't want to be the third.
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May 23, 2016 17:08
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kastein posted:I'm pretty sure it was the PO's wiring or perhaps pre-existing damage to the harness that was reawakened with the newly repaired fuse panel actually powering the dodgy circuits again. Really blows. It wasn't electrical. I went all over that harness. Everything had a proper fuse and was spliced properly. I wasn't Kastein level anal but I used the best wire management I could. I only kept fuses in for things that I'd fixed. The fire started and burned a hole right between the blower and the core. I'm about 99% sure it was caused by the mouse nest. Astonishing Wang posted:Kastein tool box is cursed seriously- did that box come off a mazda pickup? Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 17:21 on May 23, 2016 |
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May 23, 2016 17:17
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| # ? May 13, 2024 02:13 |
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Viking funeral 
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May 23, 2016 18:28
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