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My take is that the amp parallels the speakers in A+B mode, and to do that the speakers need to be 16ohms nominal. No speakers are 16 ohms nominal, so this amp can't practically run A+B at the same time. The ohms selector cuts the voltage (maximum volume) delivered to the amp from the power supply in 6 ohm mode, preventing overcurrent situations from destroying the amp. When you parallel your 8 and 6 ohm speakers your total resistance is: 1/R = 1/6 + 1/8 1/R = 7/24 R = 24 / 7 R = 3.4 Ohms So given the same input voltage (volume level on the knob), your amp will try to deliver about twice the current than a six ohm speakers. This means if you put it on 6 ohms mode, and keep it fairly quiet, the chances of you blowing up your amp are fairly slim when using A+B. If you want to be super safe, put the amp in 6 ohms mode and don't use the A+B setting at all. A Lone Girl Flier fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Feb 16, 2019 |
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Feb 16, 2019 23:24
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I'm probably making using the A+B situation sound more dire than it is. It's something I do fairly often, just make sure you don't/can't turn the amp up past half way, and that it has really good ventilation. I've never cooked an amp doing this, but then I might have just got lucky! If you've got access to an oscilloscope or a peak-hold voltage meter, you can determine a maximum safe volume level for A+B, but there's a fair bit of fudge factor built into my recommendations. If your amp has pre-outs or tape-outs, I'd just pick up another amp from goodwill or something to drive the outdoor speakers.
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Feb 16, 2019 23:47
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Thanks for the explanation I appreciate it!
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Feb 18, 2019 16:56
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Multiple zones from one receiver is one of those features that never seems to work exactly how you expect or need it to.
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Feb 18, 2019 19:56
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Works great on my onkyo stereo receiver.
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Feb 18, 2019 20:58
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qirex posted:Multiple zones from one receiver is one of those features that never seems to work exactly how you expect or need it to. Tell me about it. If you need *real* multizoning, you need to get a top of the line receiver (either new or second hand). The features don't trickle down to budget/mid range receivers, and multizone on those is gimped at best. It's the difference between the $400 receiver and the $1,400 receiver. I get by with my budget receiver, but it's a complicated mess. I'm not convinced it would even be fully resolved if I spent a ton of extra cash on a top end, as even then you've got a client that has to feed both a multichannel zone and a stereo zone possibly at the same time, and I don't know if higher end receivers will downmix this or not (I had great fun dealing with MC audio in my patio where you'd get all the L/R channel audio and zero dialog).
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Feb 18, 2019 21:21
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KillHour posted:Works great on my onkyo stereo receiver. Yeah I have to say it works perfectly fine on my Rotel RX-1052. But it's an older receiver so it's not complicated. It's basically Zone 2-3-4 are on or off.
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Feb 19, 2019 01:40
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I'm in a similar boat. I need a receiver (doesn't HAVE to be 2 channel) preferably around 100wpc OR a preamp that uses a remote. Now here's the tough part: It has to be less than 5" tall and I need it to be compatible / controllable with my Samsung Smart TV remote. Samsung doesn't seem to have a list of compatible HT receivers / preamps anywhere which makes this whole thing sort of impossible to nail down. In case anyone is interested. I think I found something that fits the bill perfectly: The NAD T752. It's an older model but it checks out, sir. 100wpc / stereo , optical input, remote control that my TV remote can work with, and most importantly it's under $200
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Feb 19, 2019 01:50
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wolrah posted:It sounds like it should be pretty easy to test. Disconnect that speaker wire at the receiver end and try to replicate the problem. If it still happens, it's not the wire. If it doesn't, it probably is. It wasn't that speaker wire and, since it wasn't the radio, I have now moved on to suspect the TV itself, possibly via the HDMI cable(s). I'll have to get some anti-static wrist straps or whatever.
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Feb 19, 2019 01:55
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I have two of those pioneer bookshelf speakers set up for my main tv/record player. If I want to add on to it should I go for a sub or a middle channel speaker first? I'd eventually like to expand into a 5.1 setup at some point down the line.
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Feb 19, 2019 01:59
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Are you in an apartment? Do you already have a 5.1 receiver/amp? 3.0 is pretty good for movie and such. I'm running 5.0 now and am pretty satisfied. E: vvv I have neighbors I don't want to piss off, since you don't, perhaps leave the surround for last Corky Romanovsky fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Feb 19, 2019 |
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Feb 19, 2019 02:08
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Corky Romanovsky posted:Are you in an apartment? Do you already have a 5.1 receiver/amp? In a house, receiver is 5.1 already.
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Feb 19, 2019 02:18
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Go with a sub.
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Feb 19, 2019 02:36
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Sub 100%
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Feb 19, 2019 03:07
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Reminder for those who can't/don't want to have subs to avoid annoying neighbors/family that buttkickers (or generic transducers, don't have to go brand name) are wonderful. I have both and it's great, when my housemate who works odd hours is asleep I just turn off the sub but I can still feel the bass all the same. A $50 transducer bolted to the frame of my couch and wired to an old car stereo amp powered by a spare computer power supply does wonders.
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Feb 19, 2019 03:58
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Stan Taylor posted:If I want to add on to it should I go for a sub or a middle channel speaker first? Sub. Two subs even. Treat yourself.
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Feb 19, 2019 11:05
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Sub. Two subs even. Treat 
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Feb 19, 2019 12:53
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Sharing is caring after all.
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Feb 19, 2019 19:41
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"I figured as long as I was at it I would buy a subwoofer for you too." E: "Why waste a shipping fee?" Hipster_Doofus fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Feb 20, 2019 |
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Feb 20, 2019 01:44
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BASS FIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIGHT (but seriously, 2 subs for you)
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Feb 20, 2019 15:27
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:In case anyone is interested. I think I found something that fits the bill perfectly: gently caress! WHEN WILL THIS NIGHTMARE END?!?! Ebay seller apparently misjudged shipping and refused to ship unless I paid an additional $125. Then refunded me before I could even message him back. I've been scouring the internets for something else to fit the bill and at this point I'm about to just say gently caress it and get some wall mounted speakers and a slimline receiver. Any recommendations for wall mounts or in-walls? If I'm gonna spend money I might as well prepare for when the toddler starts to crawl. She's already taking a liking to my Vandersteens and I'm getting nervous. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Feb 21, 2019 |
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Feb 21, 2019 03:52
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Is it time to consider a bespoke receiver?
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Feb 21, 2019 04:04
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taqueso posted:Is it time to consider a bespoke receiver? We went that route a couple pages back. I was gonna mini-DSP and get a couple of ICEpower amps but that would still cost me more than a pair of Eotiva Emotiv E1 and a Marantz 1608 and frankly I'd rather avoid another project.
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Feb 21, 2019 04:12
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Do all HDMI cables have shielding, or would shielding still dump into my TV? Wondering if replacing my inexpensive cables with ones that advertise shielding might do the trick w.r.t. my static problem.
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Feb 21, 2019 08:39
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Corky Romanovsky posted:Do all HDMI cables have shielding, or would shielding still dump into my TV?
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Feb 21, 2019 09:44
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qirex posted:Are your current ones certified premium? Also how long are they? It seems like cable length is one of the most common causes. Is that a real thing? One doesn't say premium on it (HDM15-894RD), I use this for ARC from TV to receiver. 1.5 meters. (Edit: Amazon description does state 3 layers of shielding) One says premium, high speed 18gbps 4k ARC, I use this for Apple TV 4k to TV. 0.5 meters. Corky Romanovsky fucked around with this message at 10:18 on Feb 21, 2019 |
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Feb 21, 2019 10:10
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Certified Premium is very much a thing once you start getting into 4K HDR 60fps, especially if you need longer cables, but even on shorter ones. It never mattered for 1080p but with my 4k setup, I need about 20 feet in a single cable, so I got the Monoprice Premium Certified Cables. They're great, inexpensive, and work with 4K over distances. Just get those. I bought a handful including 6' ones just to start replacing old cheap ones that had issues with 4k stuff sometimes. This should solve that weird digital snow, cutouts, TV reporting that it can't do 4k@60fps HDR to devices, all sorts of stuff. Edit: I initially had some Blue Jeans Cable that supposedly usually worked at that distance, but they very much didn't, and BJC told me to basically gently caress off because they never actually stated it was certified for that distance on their literature, just that it would probably work. I ended up returning them and bought the Monoprice stuff and the only issues I have now are always quickly solved by just unplugging and replugging on both ends. Do note that it's still possible to get a bad cable, and the 4K@60 4:4:4 is really sensitive to that since it needs *all* the available bandwidth. 
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Feb 25, 2019 14:51
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Is there such thing as a reasonably-priced mixer (3.5mm input) with a built-in switcher? Gotta combine the audio of two computers into either speakers or headphones, and would prefer doing it with one device instead of two.
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Feb 25, 2019 22:25
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You're gonna need at least a 4 channel mixer. 3.5mm to 1/4 inch or RCA adapters are cheap, so don't worry about the connections so much. What's reasonably priced to you? https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Mix-Mix5-5-Channel-Mixer/dp/B00ND1K8T6?th=1&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004TM31QK/ref=psdcmw_11974881_t1_B00ND1K8T6 https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-MG06-6-Input-Compact-Stereo/dp/B00I2J4WJG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=yamaha+mixer&qid=1551153148&s=gateway&sr=8-4
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Feb 26, 2019 04:54
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If the brand doesn't make you want to break out in hives, the Behringer Xenyx mini-mixers are also quite decent. https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-Xenyx/dp/B00CTKI10A/ Some of these mixers (or the next model up from the same brand) that KillHour and I have linked are made specifically for PC use, so they have an USB input, which I assume you can use for one of the PCs.
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Feb 26, 2019 10:05
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I have a Xenyx and it's sitting in a closet because it's so drat noisy it's barely useable. I'd never buy another one - the Yamaha I got to replace it is night and day.
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Feb 26, 2019 14:20
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Really? I've only ever heard good things about them from guys who use them as drum mixers for recording etc., and I assume they would notice the noise. The bigger Xenyx mixers I've used seemed to be fine. Oh well, the Behringer curse strikes again.
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Feb 26, 2019 15:04
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$50-60 was about what I was hoping for, thanks! So the "switching" is just swapping the output volume instead of pushing a button?
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Feb 26, 2019 15:06
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On some of them, you switch between line-in and USB input, on others you either mute or solo the relevant input(s), or simply turn down the inputs you don't want to listen to.
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Feb 26, 2019 15:17
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KillHour posted:I have a Xenyx and it's sitting in a closet because it's so drat noisy it's barely useable. I'd never buy another one - the Yamaha I got to replace it is night and day. I used to have a 16 track Yamaha in my house, and it’s amazing how much mixer you can get for your money from them. I’ll give Yamaha their due, they’ve always provided good quality stuff at a solid price point.
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Feb 26, 2019 15:31
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I think the Mackie Big Knob [maybe the Studio+ model] is well suited for that application but you'd have to overcome the shame of trading your money for something called the "Big Knob."
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Feb 26, 2019 20:12
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I was assuming they would need to have the ability to make both sources active. Otherwise, A/B switches are cheap as poo poo.
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Feb 26, 2019 20:44
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Yeah that's the form factor I imagined, but I need the sources combined. Went ahead and got the Mix5. Thanks again guys!
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Feb 26, 2019 20:55
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Can I get an all in one class d amp/dac with 2 digital inputs and outputs for stereo speakers and headphones? I'd like to replace the AVR I'm using with something smaller.
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Feb 26, 2019 20:56
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taqueso posted:Can I get an all in one class d amp/dac with 2 digital inputs and outputs for stereo speakers and headphones? I'd like to replace the AVR I'm using with something smaller. A lot of the Chinese manufacturers (Topping, SMSL and so on) make that type of devices, in various price ranges. http://en.tpdz.net/products_detail/productId=34.html http://en.tpdz.net/products_detail/productId=35.html (This one has a remote control) http://www.smsl-audio.com/productshow.asp?id=140 http://smsl-audio.com/productshow.asp?id=95 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Ali...2641065859.html I don't know how good they are or if they over-promise on output power, or have any grievous flaws. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Feb 26, 2019 |
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Feb 26, 2019 21:08
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